OrLiN
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Everything posted by OrLiN
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Just seen your planking posts. If you intend to paint the hull you have no problems. If I am planking a "problem" hull I really concentrate on tapering the planks above the waterline and then apply coppering or lots of white stuff below. Not a masterpiece finish but it works for me and, most period hulls had underwater protection applied. Keep up the good work. Orlin
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Post it Imagna. I have been planking boats for thirty years and still critise my own work. I still find planking hard so I don't laugh at other peoples projects.
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Good tip on the colours. I tried using different shades and colours as undercoats before applying the finishing colour as a thin "wash" coat but your tip may be better. Good work on the coppering. OrLiN
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Agree with Y.T. Soak planks then temporarily fix in place. Let planks dry and then glue in place. You. can prevent the transom sharp bends by filling the "end bay" with balsa and then shaping to your requirements. OrLiN
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Good luck with the build. I will be watching with interest. Intend starting my version next Christmas Enjoy working with your sons. OrLiN
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Hi Jobbie, Just found this build and it is looking good. I will be following from now on. Was contemplating this kit for my next project and have already picked up some good tips. Keep up the good work. OrLiN
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Hi, Good point about recessing the eyelets. I didn't and it caused all sorts of problems. Your build is looking good, very good. Following with interest. OrLiN
- 421 replies
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- caldercraft
- granado
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Hi RMC, Attached shows the paint in question applied to Panarts 16th scale lifeboat. This needs a quick de-nib with 600 grade wet and dry then one coat of white. Using this colour as an undercoat (three coats) tones down the white and I think gives a more natural hue. Get some scrap wood and experiment. More than one way to get the finish you desire.
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Hi, The only way I have found to stop this problem is - 1. Remove the tape while the paint is still wet. This means re-taping for every coat and is not really the way to go. 2. Use household paint. You can buy tester pots from the best quality ranges and these are sufficient to cover large hulls. They can be applied in thin coats, have a good matt finish and I also use a small hard bristle brush with a "stabbing" motion to give a stippled finish. Make sure that the paint is acrylic. The ones that I use are quick drying but not as quick as Admiralty Paints. If you can find one, use a low tack masking tape. I have been using this sort of paint for 30 years and with no problems. It comes in a great variety of shades. I have never found it necessary to thin this paint. The one I am using at the moment is manufactured by CRAIG & ROSE - 1829 range of vintage colurs and is described as Chalky emulsion. www.Craig & Rose.com
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Hello Rusty, I have just found your build and will be following from now on. Your work is superb and I look forward to future posts. Enjoy, OrLiN
- 120 replies
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- queen anne barge
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Try following full size procedure. Steam the planks before trying to fit. Or soak in hot water. You will need to practice on scrap or spare 2 x 6 pieces until you get it right. Do not attempt on the model in the planks final location but build a jig to bend the plank around. you need to secure the plank until it cools and dries (I usually leave it overnight). When you come to fix the plank in position you will find most of the bend remains and any final adjustment is fairly easy. If you have three hands it is pretty straight forward. You also need good straight grained strip wood . It took me several attempts to bend 2mm thick but I got there in the end. Good luck!!
- 6 replies
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- sark constructo
- on cutty
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Good work on the rigging mate. Always more than one way to skin a cat. I have been doing this for more than thirty years and there are still times when I want to bin 12 to 15 months work because something has turned out not to the standard I want and, it's always on the rigging. Keep at it, learn as you go. I still learn something new every day. For a first wooden kit this is turning out well. Good luck with the rest of it.
- 121 replies
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- bounty
- constructo
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Judging by the rest of your build I am sure that the rigging will turn out OK. I have tried both methods of rigging and for my poorer skills I find it easier to insert the lower masts, and bowsprit, fit the fore and aft standing rigging then the lower shrouds and ratlines. I then fit the upper masts and rig as I go. The yards get fitted where I can. The only problem you may have is tensioning everything and from what I can see you should not have a problem. There is no right or wrong way. Keep building, Orlin
- 121 replies
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- bounty
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Good work on the masts and spars. Bold move fitting shrouds and ratlines off the ship and not in-situ. Things are looking good.
- 121 replies
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- bounty
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Morning RMC, This is my first ever posting on this forum so if there are any breaches of good manners etc. please excuse them. I have built from many kit suppliers over the years and have usually been saddened by the strip wood supplied including a lot of the walnut. My build of Granado also ended up in the bin though I did keep all of the fittings for my spares box. For my last three builds I have bought replacement wood for the planking, both hull and deck. Any walnut I use is painted black (Admiralty Paints) after sanding and filling. I tend to research and "kit bash" as much as possible and usually end up with a reasonable result but I wouldn't want to enter it in any sort of competition. Good luck with the rest of the build, I will be watching.
- 421 replies
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- caldercraft
- granado
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