Don9of11

Much progress now. Optimized my workflow, lots of polishing on the textures and a naval sword added. The sword was a real challenge. Modeling and texturing done from scratch. The Inclusion into the animation and non-collision with the coat needed to be solved. Could further be improved but I am satisfied with the result by now. Will see what comes next. A royal marine maybe. Might even be more demanding as they have a lot of fittings at them. Will also have to start creating animations. The current walkcycle is just a test. A very long way to go until my ship model will be populated with officers, marines, midshipmen, boatswains, masters, able seamen, carpenter, cook, purser, ... 
 
link:
 
http://youtu.be/Y0167QDMckg

If you're only looking to turn spars, mast, etc, I would check out the Grizzly Hobby Lathe.
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
I have one and it's come in handy for turning mast and spars and other small turning projects. It's easy to setup and use all need is the drill motor that fits the collar. You can attach it to your work bench with some clamps or mount it directly.  I used it to turn the mast for my Enterprise.
 
 

 

 

 

If you're only looking to turn spars, mast, etc, I would check out the Grizzly Hobby Lathe.
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
I have one and it's come in handy for turning mast and spars and other small turning projects. It's easy to setup and use all need is the drill motor that fits the collar. You can attach it to your work bench with some clamps or mount it directly.  I used it to turn the mast for my Enterprise.
 
 

 

 

 

At this scale, wasn't sure how I was going to tackle the tiny ships bell. Not crazy about painting a wood bell.
Came up with this....turned a small brass "phillips head" wood screw using two Dremel tools spinning against each other.
Not too awful bad....I'll take it.
No, there is no "clapper" inside the bell.

I had these sitting in my arsenal on cannon carriages. They were handed down to me so I hand them off to you. I don't recall the source but perhaps there is some information you can use.
 

 

 

I had these sitting in my arsenal on cannon carriages. They were handed down to me so I hand them off to you. I don't recall the source but perhaps there is some information you can use.
 

 

 

I had these sitting in my arsenal on cannon carriages. They were handed down to me so I hand them off to you. I don't recall the source but perhaps there is some information you can use.
 

 

 

I had these sitting in my arsenal on cannon carriages. They were handed down to me so I hand them off to you. I don't recall the source but perhaps there is some information you can use.
 

 

 

Part 8: Armament





 

As a starting point for the second attempt at this project, I decided to draw up the armament.  I will be using the original armament of the Porcupine class, that is 22 x 9 pdr on the gundeck and 2 x 6 pdr on the quarterdeck, instead of the armament of Pandora as sunk (20 x 6 pdr on the gundeck and 4 x 18 pdr carronades on the qurterdeck).  This is partly because my model will be of Pandora as originally planned (e.g. Pandora's Box will not be fitted), partly because I have yet to find good references giving the dimensions of carronades, and partly (mostly) because I personally find carronades brutish and unattractive.  I have chosen to use 9 pdrs of 7 feet long, and 6 pdrs of 6 feet.

 

The barrels of the 6 and 9 pdrs were drawn using General Armstrong's proportions, as given in the 1768 edition of Muller's Treatise of Artillery.  This edition is freely available from Google Books.  Detailing, especially around the cascable, was heavily based on a number of photos of period guns.  The carriages given in Muller's work seem date from the middle of the 18th century, and look to be a bit too long for the end of the century.  Instead, I used Harold Hahn's dimensions as fournd in this thread http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6059-making-gun-carriages/, which look much better (to my eye), and seem reliable, as the dimensions of the barrels match up well with Muller's work.  As an example, the 9 pdr carriage should be 63 inches long as per Muller, but only 50 inches long as per Hahn.  The quoins and carriage ironwork (shown below) are only approximations, as I have not been able to find any definitive references for these parts.  



 

The 1/2 pdr swivel was taken directly from the plans given in McKay's AotS Pandora, with a number of photos again used as references.





 

In all cases, the barrels were drawn first as a half profile, which was then rotated into a complete barrel using the 'Follow Me' tool and a circle at the muzzle end.  The touchhole and trunions were then added.  The last picture shows one of these profiles, with the position of the trunions marked out and the vertical circle for forming the 3D barrel.

If you're only looking to turn spars, mast, etc, I would check out the Grizzly Hobby Lathe.
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
I have one and it's come in handy for turning mast and spars and other small turning projects. It's easy to setup and use all need is the drill motor that fits the collar. You can attach it to your work bench with some clamps or mount it directly.  I used it to turn the mast for my Enterprise.
 
 

 

 

 

Nice job, just goes to show what you can do with a simple setup!

If you're only looking to turn spars, mast, etc, I would check out the Grizzly Hobby Lathe.
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
I have one and it's come in handy for turning mast and spars and other small turning projects. It's easy to setup and use all need is the drill motor that fits the collar. You can attach it to your work bench with some clamps or mount it directly.  I used it to turn the mast for my Enterprise.
 
 

 

 

 

Below is the corrected model results.
I've got the hull outline at the bow figured out and need to understand (draw) the same at the stern.
 

If you're only looking to turn spars, mast, etc, I would check out the Grizzly Hobby Lathe.
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
I have one and it's come in handy for turning mast and spars and other small turning projects. It's easy to setup and use all need is the drill motor that fits the collar. You can attach it to your work bench with some clamps or mount it directly.  I used it to turn the mast for my Enterprise.
 
 

 

 

 

If you're only looking to turn spars, mast, etc, I would check out the Grizzly Hobby Lathe.
 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Hobby-Lathe-Disc-Sander/H2669
 
I have one and it's come in handy for turning mast and spars and other small turning projects. It's easy to setup and use all need is the drill motor that fits the collar. You can attach it to your work bench with some clamps or mount it directly.  I used it to turn the mast for my Enterprise.
 
 

 

 

 

Puttin’ on some ritz now ...
 
Animation:
 
http://youtu.be/csZ7lRy36Nw
 
First time with some UVW mapped textures on the vertex-animated coat.
 
Still missing is a rapier which will make it even more complex ... we will see.

I did a hull of Renommee recently. Cheapest of cheap printer, heated polystyrene. Cost ? Eeee... about 5$ ? Not really sure. Here are results. 
 

 
Now- of course it is by no means something to be used "as is", BUT after polishing surface is even and true (basically- like in plastic kit) and more then ready to have "planks" glued onto it. Quite good (and precise) base if you ask me. 

Once the aft deck was dryfitted I did the same with the front part.






Once I was sure of the fit I then glued the decks down.


So far so good.
David B

There are two types of sellers....
 
1. Model Builders who just have some second hand tools, kits, etc and wish to sell them to other hobbyists.   You must be a member in good standing at MSW to post stuff for sale if you are in this category.....You must have 25 or posts on MSW as a member in good standing to post stuff for sale.
 
2. Commercial business....online stores  No advertising/self promotion is allowed on the forum.   If your business is interested in posting about your products or services, please contact admin (Chuck) about becoming a sponsor of this site.  As a sponsor you will be able to promote your products and services here in the the traders and dealers area as well as have a banner linked to your website along the right side of the forums main page.  Unless you are a sponsor of this site, All commercial business promotion is forbidden without permission from the administrators.
 
 
Those in category one......Please read.......If you wish to sell something here on MSW, please read and follow the rules given. We're not, by nature, a suspicious bunch. But over the years here and in other forums, people with something to sell have come in and offered various and sundry items. Not all have been honest. So please, follow these guidelines so that everyone has a pleasant experience.  You must have been a member that has 25 posts before you can post a topic in this forum.   
 
1) Post some pictures of the item.
2) Offer to give your phone number via PM.
3) Offer Paypal or some other secure transaction method.
4) Provide a price (given the different currencies, put the price in your currency).
5) Be sure to post your real name, location by city and country.
6) Do not post personal data such as addresses, emails, etc.  You will probably get spammed, etc. as this forum can be read by anyone including miscreants. 
 
Lastly, expect questions and do answer them.

You could take one piece of 1/2 inch square material and glue two 1/8 inch sq. strips to it form the groove, that would leave you with a 1/8 inch groove for your glass. If you want a 1 inch post then you would need 3/8 inch strips and set them in 1/16 inch on each side that would also give you a 1/8 inch groove. If you don't want a reveal or you don't want to see two strips glued together just face it off with the appropriate sized plank. - no power tools required.

Latest achievements go here ...
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=9glpb--vOik
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=XNVUUidHKls
 
Two more tests of my advancing character animation. The workflow and setup is almost complete. The texturing of the coat is still missing. Credits for modelling of headwear, wig and under-garment goes to Varsels from sharecg.com. The officers coat, its fittings and the overall composition and animation setup is my own creation.

I should expand the explanation
 
The (original TIFF and so) PDF images I was measuring off of are "stretched" (due to the original source) and so inaccurate as would be measuring off a (the) print. The lines on the PDF are a wee bit thick when I zoom in to measure so that probably doesn't help.
 
My Solidworks model reflects these inaccuracies and so lines are manipulated
 
If I were to trace off an imported image I get the same inaccuracies because the original image is stretched
 
If I stretch the CAD tracing I would make from the image the curvature/straightness of the lines are compromised and require manipulation
 
No matter what I do I've got to nudge things over and turn them about to make it look right and since I want to try to salvage what I've done to date ....
 
My NRG mentor suggested measuring off the print with dividers and so I've given it a try
It can't be any worse than what I've done so far and actually gives me repeatable dimensions where as the zooming in on the PDF to electronically measure rarely gives me the exact same dimension twice (a program tolerance issue)
 
I am doing it all on a reference sketch in DraftSight because I need a "clean sheet" and my SolidWorks model is too distracting so I keep it closed for now.
 
All will be transferred to the model once I get it straightened out.

Don,
How so?
(yes it is not recommended practice on the shop floor)

If you look closely next to the scantlings that have been changed or in some cases above the scantling, you will find there are initials. This means that the changes were agreed to, whether before or after the ship was built or if this was a common practice to mark the contract up in this manner, I can't determine. 
 

 
 

Part 7: Starting Over
For the past few months, I have been working ahead at skinning over the surface and cutting out frames, and starting on the gun deck beams and framing.  As shown below, this is considerably farther ahead than the previous entry here.

 
However, a few recent developments have made me decide to terminate work on that version and start over.
 
First, further research showed a number of significant errors.  Most importantly, I had assumed that the frames were square to the load waterline, and drawn them in as such.  Reading through the Shipwright's Vade-Mecum, and watching other logs. I learned that the frames should be square to the keel.  This means that the shape of the body as drawn is incorrect.  Next, I purchased a copy of Scantlings of the Royal Navy, which showed that a number of my measurements were woefully inaccurate (for example, the drafted keel was sided 4 inches too large, and the toptimbers were sided 3 inches too small).  My next attempt will be heavily based on the dimensions given in the Scantlings book.
 
At about the same time, I made a decision that the CAD model would (eventually) be used as a basis for a POF model. For this, I would need to increase the resolution of the hull (the previous version, while smooth enough for computer rendering, would not be adequate for use as a pattern, and certainly not at a scale of 1:48 or larger).
 
Finally, I would like to ask any member with a copy of Steel's Naval Architecture or the Shipwrights Repository if they would be able to PM me a copy of the table of the body of the 24 gun frigate, as having that information would greatly help to accurately form the shape of the hull.