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GrandpaPhil

NRG Member
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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. Have you seen the Venetian Galleass in Souvenirs de Marine? That looks awesome and I want to build that one day.
  2. Harold Hahn’s books have his plans of ARW ships too. Some of them are buildable right out of the books with some resizing.
  3. The Smithsonian has plans available for most of the US sailing navy.
  4. The model is painted and sealed: The base is also made. It is time to add the decals and paint the figure. Then I’ll seal the model again and figure out how I’m attaching the upper wing, lol.
  5. One very roughed out base coated six color Western Front camouflage scheme: The next time I work on it I’ll touch everything up and do all the detail painting. Then everything’s getting sealed and decals are getting added. Then everything gets sealed again before I add the struts and the windscreen. After that I’ll add that top wing and rig the model!
  6. I’m building a second Eddie Rickenbacker diorama for another friend of mine. This time I am building Captain Rickenbacker’s Spad XIII, with which he got the majority of his kills. A few notes about the kit. This one has been a completely different experience than the Nieuport. That one went together relatively well, except for the top wing. This model, on the other hand, has been a stark lesson in adapt and overcome. I am over 40 hours into this one and have just finished assembling/building the subassemblies, and priming the majority of the model black. I painted the interior but ended up cutting most of the engine out to fit the top piece of the fuselage on the model: I had the same problems that Modeller Masa did with parts fitting. I actually deliberately broke the top piece of the fuselage to make it fit and then glued it together in place, after unwarping it failed. The axles and some of the piping is made of wire and straight pins because the original plastic pieces were too short or made wrong. When I get to the plastic struts, they will have steel pins put in them to attach the top wing to the bottom wing (lesson from the Nieuport). However, the hard part is done now. It is time to paint the model after everything dries black overnight.
  7. Glen, Welcome and thank you very much! Veszett, Thank you very much! That was extremely helpful! One set of ladders: All ladders going down are my first step and then I’ll start in on the rest of the deck fittings, working from fore to aft!
  8. Gromyk Yuriy (Grom) designed the kit. He did a wonderful job of it. Everything fits perfectly. I am assuming that he intended for this to be built by someone who already knows the ropes of predreadnought building. I’m figuring it out as I go. It’s a really nice kit, it’s just definitely for an advanced level modeler. I’m having a lot of fun with it, it’s just giving me a run for my money. I’m glad that I have a high tolerance for ambiguity, lol, to figure out where everything goes and how it goes together.
  9. OC, Indeed it does! This is the part where these models get fun! The 75mm batteries and the torpedo tubes are installed: The instructions for this model are very generic and are more concerned with the general building order. They are not particularly detailed. So, I’m ad libbing a bit and working the deck fittings as I build upwards. I’m going to work forward to aft and then up, much like I would on a sailing vessel. I’ll add the outboard railings, boarding ladders and the davits as the last thing prior to masting the ship.
  10. Alan, Thank you very much! I have learned so much from everyone on this forum! The hull is completely closed up and everything is edge painted now: The Oryol is now at the point where it is becoming difficult to tell that this is a card kit from looking at it. The next steps are to seal the model, add the 75mm guns and then make the fore and aft torpedo tubes.
  11. Happy Thanksgiving to you too! Wire and toothpicks are your friends for making small masts and spars! The stiff wire that comes in balsa model plane kits for landing gears is perfect for that. Toothpicks and bamboo kitchen skewers can be shaved down to very thin diameters and are some of my go to sources for masts and spars.
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