shipmodel

Ron - 
 
Really nicely done and fitted.
I applaud your striving for perfection, even where no one but you will ever notice.
 
Be well
 
Dan

I determined that I needed to redo eight of the cleats.   If I were a perfectionist, I would have had to do more (strike that, if I were a perfectionist, I would have to redo them all--for reasons to be noted later).  There were a few that were barely passable, to my standards.  So eight is enough--

 
The eight were made with an extended 'big' end.  After gluing these in place, work was begun infilling the rim with chocks.  Time consuming little pieces--a different angle at each end, and the front ones had to be filed with a curve on the inside, with the outside to be sanded down after all the chocks are glued in.
The top on the right has had all chocks installed, the one on the left is in progress.  And here are the tools used for them (actually there were a couple additional files, and a disc sander used to fine tune the angles)--

 
After gluing in all the chocks, the sides and back were sanded to even out the projecting cleats, and the front sanded to finalize the curve.  Then the top was sanded flat to even out and reduce the height of the rim.   Something to note: the three chocks on each side of the top are wider, to accommodate the shroud futtock plates that will be mortised through them.  They actually overhang a tiny bit on the inside of the rim beneath (which is how Petrejus shows it)--

 
And now the reason all the cleats should be redone:  the break from the flat top of the cleat (embedded in the chocks) to the slope should start where it leaves the chock.  Only a few here and there actually ended up breaking at the right spot.  AND the break should have led to a more gradual reduction in thickness.  I will do some cutting and filing to address the break points, but the slope still won't be quite right. Oh well, I'm pleased with the outcome (though they're not finished yet!)--

 
Seventy some pieces of wood in each of these.
 
Ron
 
 

Hi Cisco - 
 
I'm really enjoying reading your build log.  I applaud all your work climbing up the learning curve of hull planking.  Making a complete planking diagram is something I never attempted, and yours is quite well done.  As you said, you now have a much better understanding of plank widths and butt spacing.
 
However, since this is your first shot at complicated planking, I think you may have set up a more difficult task for yourself than necessary.
I hope you don't mind if I offer some practical advice from 35 years of doing this.
 
The problem, based on my experience, is that your stealer at the stern and the drop plank (stealer) at the bow come too early in the process.  A stealer doesn't just compensate for the curve of the hull, it allows the model shipwright to adjust the run of the planks to straighten them out as the hull closes up.  Your planking plan has the drop plank being the first plank that you install under the wale.  Whether this is the first plank or the last that you put on, it is going to be hard to adjust easily to get a nice look.
 
I find it easiest to plank up from the garboard and down from the wale alternately.  Here is a hull that I did a while ago.  It has a similar shape to the hull of the AVS that you are doing. At the bow the planking strake runs the full length of the hull, but the planks are tapered to about 2/3 of the standard plank width when they reach the  stem rabbet.  After each plank is installed the edge is eyeballed and straightened, if necessary, with a sharp edged file.  It is also shaped to match its partner on the opposite side.
 
This photo is after 5 planks up and down. The remaining space is covered with lengths of translucent tape and the final plank shapes are drawn on, much as you have done on the solid hull.
1
The tape is transferred to planking wood and the shapes are cut out and fitted.  
2
At the stern the process is similar, but the planks up from the garboard are flared to fill the wider space at the sternpost.
3
As the hull closes up the remaining space becomes evident.  Tape is used again to draw in the final plank shapes.
4
Until the final plank can be cut, fitted and installed.
5
As I said, this is based on my experiences.  There are several other building methods that work equally well.  If mine is not to your liking, you can find excellent examples in many of the build logs on this site.
 
Whatever you do, best of success. 
 
Dan
   
 
 

Hi Cisco - 
 
I'm really enjoying reading your build log.  I applaud all your work climbing up the learning curve of hull planking.  Making a complete planking diagram is something I never attempted, and yours is quite well done.  As you said, you now have a much better understanding of plank widths and butt spacing.
 
However, since this is your first shot at complicated planking, I think you may have set up a more difficult task for yourself than necessary.
I hope you don't mind if I offer some practical advice from 35 years of doing this.
 
The problem, based on my experience, is that your stealer at the stern and the drop plank (stealer) at the bow come too early in the process.  A stealer doesn't just compensate for the curve of the hull, it allows the model shipwright to adjust the run of the planks to straighten them out as the hull closes up.  Your planking plan has the drop plank being the first plank that you install under the wale.  Whether this is the first plank or the last that you put on, it is going to be hard to adjust easily to get a nice look.
 
I find it easiest to plank up from the garboard and down from the wale alternately.  Here is a hull that I did a while ago.  It has a similar shape to the hull of the AVS that you are doing. At the bow the planking strake runs the full length of the hull, but the planks are tapered to about 2/3 of the standard plank width when they reach the  stem rabbet.  After each plank is installed the edge is eyeballed and straightened, if necessary, with a sharp edged file.  It is also shaped to match its partner on the opposite side.
 
This photo is after 5 planks up and down. The remaining space is covered with lengths of translucent tape and the final plank shapes are drawn on, much as you have done on the solid hull.
1
The tape is transferred to planking wood and the shapes are cut out and fitted.  
2
At the stern the process is similar, but the planks up from the garboard are flared to fill the wider space at the sternpost.
3
As the hull closes up the remaining space becomes evident.  Tape is used again to draw in the final plank shapes.
4
Until the final plank can be cut, fitted and installed.
5
As I said, this is based on my experiences.  There are several other building methods that work equally well.  If mine is not to your liking, you can find excellent examples in many of the build logs on this site.
 
Whatever you do, best of success. 
 
Dan
   
 
 

Hi Cisco - 
 
I'm really enjoying reading your build log.  I applaud all your work climbing up the learning curve of hull planking.  Making a complete planking diagram is something I never attempted, and yours is quite well done.  As you said, you now have a much better understanding of plank widths and butt spacing.
 
However, since this is your first shot at complicated planking, I think you may have set up a more difficult task for yourself than necessary.
I hope you don't mind if I offer some practical advice from 35 years of doing this.
 
The problem, based on my experience, is that your stealer at the stern and the drop plank (stealer) at the bow come too early in the process.  A stealer doesn't just compensate for the curve of the hull, it allows the model shipwright to adjust the run of the planks to straighten them out as the hull closes up.  Your planking plan has the drop plank being the first plank that you install under the wale.  Whether this is the first plank or the last that you put on, it is going to be hard to adjust easily to get a nice look.
 
I find it easiest to plank up from the garboard and down from the wale alternately.  Here is a hull that I did a while ago.  It has a similar shape to the hull of the AVS that you are doing. At the bow the planking strake runs the full length of the hull, but the planks are tapered to about 2/3 of the standard plank width when they reach the  stem rabbet.  After each plank is installed the edge is eyeballed and straightened, if necessary, with a sharp edged file.  It is also shaped to match its partner on the opposite side.
 
This photo is after 5 planks up and down. The remaining space is covered with lengths of translucent tape and the final plank shapes are drawn on, much as you have done on the solid hull.
1
The tape is transferred to planking wood and the shapes are cut out and fitted.  
2
At the stern the process is similar, but the planks up from the garboard are flared to fill the wider space at the sternpost.
3
As the hull closes up the remaining space becomes evident.  Tape is used again to draw in the final plank shapes.
4
Until the final plank can be cut, fitted and installed.
5
As I said, this is based on my experiences.  There are several other building methods that work equally well.  If mine is not to your liking, you can find excellent examples in many of the build logs on this site.
 
Whatever you do, best of success. 
 
Dan
   
 
 

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

Hi Cisco - 
 
I'm really enjoying reading your build log.  I applaud all your work climbing up the learning curve of hull planking.  Making a complete planking diagram is something I never attempted, and yours is quite well done.  As you said, you now have a much better understanding of plank widths and butt spacing.
 
However, since this is your first shot at complicated planking, I think you may have set up a more difficult task for yourself than necessary.
I hope you don't mind if I offer some practical advice from 35 years of doing this.
 
The problem, based on my experience, is that your stealer at the stern and the drop plank (stealer) at the bow come too early in the process.  A stealer doesn't just compensate for the curve of the hull, it allows the model shipwright to adjust the run of the planks to straighten them out as the hull closes up.  Your planking plan has the drop plank being the first plank that you install under the wale.  Whether this is the first plank or the last that you put on, it is going to be hard to adjust easily to get a nice look.
 
I find it easiest to plank up from the garboard and down from the wale alternately.  Here is a hull that I did a while ago.  It has a similar shape to the hull of the AVS that you are doing. At the bow the planking strake runs the full length of the hull, but the planks are tapered to about 2/3 of the standard plank width when they reach the  stem rabbet.  After each plank is installed the edge is eyeballed and straightened, if necessary, with a sharp edged file.  It is also shaped to match its partner on the opposite side.
 
This photo is after 5 planks up and down. The remaining space is covered with lengths of translucent tape and the final plank shapes are drawn on, much as you have done on the solid hull.
1
The tape is transferred to planking wood and the shapes are cut out and fitted.  
2
At the stern the process is similar, but the planks up from the garboard are flared to fill the wider space at the sternpost.
3
As the hull closes up the remaining space becomes evident.  Tape is used again to draw in the final plank shapes.
4
Until the final plank can be cut, fitted and installed.
5
As I said, this is based on my experiences.  There are several other building methods that work equally well.  If mine is not to your liking, you can find excellent examples in many of the build logs on this site.
 
Whatever you do, best of success. 
 
Dan
   
 
 

Hi Cisco - 
 
I'm really enjoying reading your build log.  I applaud all your work climbing up the learning curve of hull planking.  Making a complete planking diagram is something I never attempted, and yours is quite well done.  As you said, you now have a much better understanding of plank widths and butt spacing.
 
However, since this is your first shot at complicated planking, I think you may have set up a more difficult task for yourself than necessary.
I hope you don't mind if I offer some practical advice from 35 years of doing this.
 
The problem, based on my experience, is that your stealer at the stern and the drop plank (stealer) at the bow come too early in the process.  A stealer doesn't just compensate for the curve of the hull, it allows the model shipwright to adjust the run of the planks to straighten them out as the hull closes up.  Your planking plan has the drop plank being the first plank that you install under the wale.  Whether this is the first plank or the last that you put on, it is going to be hard to adjust easily to get a nice look.
 
I find it easiest to plank up from the garboard and down from the wale alternately.  Here is a hull that I did a while ago.  It has a similar shape to the hull of the AVS that you are doing. At the bow the planking strake runs the full length of the hull, but the planks are tapered to about 2/3 of the standard plank width when they reach the  stem rabbet.  After each plank is installed the edge is eyeballed and straightened, if necessary, with a sharp edged file.  It is also shaped to match its partner on the opposite side.
 
This photo is after 5 planks up and down. The remaining space is covered with lengths of translucent tape and the final plank shapes are drawn on, much as you have done on the solid hull.
1
The tape is transferred to planking wood and the shapes are cut out and fitted.  
2
At the stern the process is similar, but the planks up from the garboard are flared to fill the wider space at the sternpost.
3
As the hull closes up the remaining space becomes evident.  Tape is used again to draw in the final plank shapes.
4
Until the final plank can be cut, fitted and installed.
5
As I said, this is based on my experiences.  There are several other building methods that work equally well.  If mine is not to your liking, you can find excellent examples in many of the build logs on this site.
 
Whatever you do, best of success. 
 
Dan
   
 
 

Hi Cisco - 
 
I'm really enjoying reading your build log.  I applaud all your work climbing up the learning curve of hull planking.  Making a complete planking diagram is something I never attempted, and yours is quite well done.  As you said, you now have a much better understanding of plank widths and butt spacing.
 
However, since this is your first shot at complicated planking, I think you may have set up a more difficult task for yourself than necessary.
I hope you don't mind if I offer some practical advice from 35 years of doing this.
 
The problem, based on my experience, is that your stealer at the stern and the drop plank (stealer) at the bow come too early in the process.  A stealer doesn't just compensate for the curve of the hull, it allows the model shipwright to adjust the run of the planks to straighten them out as the hull closes up.  Your planking plan has the drop plank being the first plank that you install under the wale.  Whether this is the first plank or the last that you put on, it is going to be hard to adjust easily to get a nice look.
 
I find it easiest to plank up from the garboard and down from the wale alternately.  Here is a hull that I did a while ago.  It has a similar shape to the hull of the AVS that you are doing. At the bow the planking strake runs the full length of the hull, but the planks are tapered to about 2/3 of the standard plank width when they reach the  stem rabbet.  After each plank is installed the edge is eyeballed and straightened, if necessary, with a sharp edged file.  It is also shaped to match its partner on the opposite side.
 
This photo is after 5 planks up and down. The remaining space is covered with lengths of translucent tape and the final plank shapes are drawn on, much as you have done on the solid hull.
1
The tape is transferred to planking wood and the shapes are cut out and fitted.  
2
At the stern the process is similar, but the planks up from the garboard are flared to fill the wider space at the sternpost.
3
As the hull closes up the remaining space becomes evident.  Tape is used again to draw in the final plank shapes.
4
Until the final plank can be cut, fitted and installed.
5
As I said, this is based on my experiences.  There are several other building methods that work equally well.  If mine is not to your liking, you can find excellent examples in many of the build logs on this site.
 
Whatever you do, best of success. 
 
Dan
   
 
 

Good morning

Standing rigging completed.

The front border of top #1 was shaped, and the same procedure followed for top #2.  I did reduce the number of sections in the curve-
  
 
The light pencil line was traced from the BOTTOM side of the top, just as a check to make sure the pieces would fill in the curve correctly.  Next, it was glued to the floor along just the curved edge.  While that was weighted and drying, a paper template was placed on the floor within the rim of top #1, and the locations of the radial cleats was marked--

 
Here the front edge of top #2 has been sanded--
  
 
The line of the back edge has been drawn by eye in pencil, and the piece is scored lightly with a knife, repeated a few times, but not cut all the way through--
 
 
The waste is cut away with a chisel because I felt I had more control and didn't want to cut into the floor below, as I knew there would need to be some refinement of the shape.  There is no glue under the waste area, so once the chisel cuts through, the pieces detach easily--

 
The width was checked with a caliper, and further shaped where needed with sanding on the outside edge, or the knife and chisel on the inside edge.
 
Here is the current state of the two tops (one upside down)--

 
Oh, and I did today's pair of carronade tackle blocks.
 
Ron
 

I purchased Chuck's ropewalk a couple years ago.  I put it together at that time, but was too intimidated to use it (and I didn't have a pressing need for any line).  With my fresh shipbuilding vigor, I decided now is the time to take the plunge--
 
 
I figured I would have many failed attempts before I got the hang of it, but it worked out great!  Maybe beginner's luck, but on the first try I actually ended up with a decent rope--

 
I think it could have been a little tighter, and it's not any particular circumference or diameter that I need, but I'm confident now that I can make what I will need for Oneida's rigging.
 
 On to the top(s).  I cut and glued up the floor for the second top, and started on the piece that overhangs the edges.  No problem on the straight pieces, but the curved front is a challenge.  I don't have an easy way to make a piece large enough, at the thinness required (about 1" scale) to make it in one piece, so I thought I'd do it this way--

 
Very tedious, but I think this will work, if it doesn't disintegrate when I shave it down to match the curve of the top.  This (and the straight pieces) need to overhang the floor halfway--
 
 
I also completed another pair of carronade tackle blocks.  My goal is to do one pair a day.  If I can do that, they'll be done in another couple weeks!
 
Ron

Thank you cisco.  Thank you, Johann--your model is extraordinary, and I can only aspire to the accuracy and detail that you are able to accomplish!
 
I have been working--very slowly.
 
First, I realized that I need to remove the carronades to make the breeching ropes.  Unfortunately, I had glued them to the deck!!  Fortune smiled though, and the upper part of the carriages were NOT glued to the lower bed (except for one), and I was able to remove the carronades--
 
 
Here they are, with breeching ropes partly done.  They need to have the correct knot and iron ring attached to each end of the rope.  The first five (including the one carronade that I had to forcibly remove from the deck) are done.  Beyond those are the rest which have the first end done, then the line threaded through the breeching ring, and the beginning loop of the second knot lightly glued to hold it for seizing--

 
This is my method for completing the breeching knot after the first seizing is done.  Using a short piece of line, and tweezers, form a simple overhand knot--
 

Get it oriented correctly--

Position it at the right spot and pull it tighter--

Finish up by giving it a good tug--

 
The loose ends are then wrapped a turn around, and glued with a dab of white glue.  After dry, the ends are snipped close.  It's a shortcut, I know, but looks fine.
 
Now the carronades can be reinstalled, and the eyelets glued into predrilled holes (done many years ago now!!) in the bulwarks--
 



 
Next, I will need to make about 30 more of these training tackles--

 
Closing with a couple photos of Oneida--


 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks, Ed, for the encouragement.  I can't predict when the urge to work takes me, but it's on for the moment!
 
I continued on with the top.  Both the main and fore top will be the same.  I ended up using a very small chisel to pare down the glued up sections of the top, so they would interlock as Petrejus described--


 
The photo below shows that I have some more work to do before the overlap sits flush--

 
Once I was satisfied, I glued the pieces together--

 
After the floor of the top was one piece and the straight areas trimmed, I rubber cemented the pattern to it, to sand down the curved areas--

 
After sanding the curved area--

 
This is about 1mm thick--

 
Just a note on the color of these pear wood strips.  For the first time, I've cut my own strip wood.  The darker streaks are burn marks from the saw blade.  Another learning curve to master.  The tops are going to be stained black in the end, so it's okay.  In fact, once it's stained I don't think you'll be able to see that there are 20 individual pieces making up this floor.  Petrejus says there are 65 pieces in the finished top. 
 
I didn't make any more carronade tackle blocks!
 
Ron
 
 

Good Day-After-St Patrick's-Day-Afternoon Model Shipworlders.  Wife is downstate working, kids are presently quiet, time for an update.  I got exactly nothing accomplished on my hull BUT I did a lot of thinking.
 
mikiek- I followed (some) of your advice for the garboard strake.  After attaching it I sighted down the hull and trimmed the stem portion some where it raised up, aiming for a mostly straight run.  I had read about proportional dividers but I was worried they wouldn't work well on curved surfaces.  So I am sticking with paper tick strips; always reliable on a curve and immediately either lost or mixed with 15 other strips so you can't tell which one you were just using.
 
jason- I made the garboard about 1.25-1.5x  my regular plank width.  I may make the next plank up a little wider than the rest; sometimes what I plan doesn't survive contact with the enemy.  Your question about plank butt separation - see long rambling discourse below- is why I haven't added a single plank to my AVS last 2 weeks.
 
So planking and butt separation.  I didn't understand any of it and had to do several searches, downloads, and looking in my library of books stacked on my office floor.  I also discovered that many ships had hull planking plans which were very helpful.  Chuck's Cheerful has one, and I looked over Speedwells since it came as a fold out with one of the books.  A couple things emerged from my podering:
 
1) Although there is crossover, most of the plank butt separation rules seem to be for planking the deck, not the hull.  The diagrams imply evenly spaced deck beams with wide spaces in between.  Unless you want your deck planking to end in-between beams all your butt joints have to be over one these deck beams.  This provides some design constraint. 
But the hull is almost solid wood; so if you wanted to you could have almost any length plank and have a frame member to attach it to.  Presumably to keep enterprising shipwrights from entirely planking ships with 1 foot offcuts, rules existed dictating butt spacing for the hull, determined by strength, available stock, and insurance companies.
 
2) Whichever hull Butt pattern you are using seems to depend on 2 factors.  One is how many butt joints each line of planking can have.   I called these Station Lines (what would be the deck beams if you were planking the deck; a lot of diagrams call the longest plank length L and divide it into 4 or 5 sections, each of those sections is what I am calling station lines). 
The second is Butt Spacing- how many unbroken planks (looking vertically) there are between butt joints on the same frame member.  Far as I can tell 3 Butt means 3 unbroken planks, 4 Butt means 4 unbroken planks.  I don't know if theres a 5 Butt; I found a 2 Butt plan by Katsumoto which was presumably for the deck not hull.
You can designate how long the next plank will be once you figure out the system; one I found worked out to 5-2-4-1-3 for a 4 butt with 5 station lines; I found a 3 butt with 4 station lines that came out as 4-3-1-2.
 
Then looking at Cheerful's planking plan (thank you Chuck) its a pretty simple 3 Butt 1-2-3-4 pattern.  Ultimately I decided to try and use his plan.  After trying to mark butt joints on my AVS sheer plan I concluded it was too busy a picture and instead constructed my own crude planking plan, similar to Speedwells.  In these diagrams all the planks are made about the same width so you can focus on just the butt joints.

Like Cheerful's plan I divided my AVS into 8 sections (7 station lines).   Cheeful's butt lines correspond with the fore edge of each gunport.  The butt lines extended vertically into the gunport planking as well, and I had earlier already arbitrarily made 2 butt joints in my black strake.  The front butt joint was perfectly aligned with the fore edge of the AVS's front gunport (luck; I didn't plan it) but the aft joint was too far forward by a small margin.  I'm not remaking the black strake at this stage of the game so my station lines at the stern end are not perfectly equal.  But I'll take it.
 
Here's version one of my planking plan

Measuring at the stem I felt a stealer would help which was easy to copy from Cheerful.  Then I got into all sorts of problems with the stern.  The original plans for the AVS show 2 stern stealers but after measuring I felt one would work.   Originally I placed the foremost portion of the stealer on a butt joint, but this made the next lower plank and the garboard only had 2 full boards between butt joints instead of 3.  See the above picture.  This bugged me too much to accept and Cheerful doesn't have any stern stealers so i couldn't cheat and copy my way out.
 
Finally I realized that stealers start inbetween station lines and don't line up with the butt joints.  So you can ignore them in terms of butt joint placement.  I shifted my stern stealer backwards to halfway between station lines; i could also have moved it forward a 1/2 station line (dotted extension line on the below plan).

And finally I drew my station lines (dark pencil) onto the AVS' hull.  The faint lines are the actual bulwarks.

That was a ton of work for no actual planking being done.  Now I have a good idea of planking width and butt joint placement and I will never do another model without a planking diagram made up.
 
Next week I hope to present some Actual Planking!
 
thanks for reading
 
Cisco

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

Hi Roger - 
 
She is coming along quite nicely.  Well done, sir.
I am not brave enough to attempt to work in metal, so I am a bit in awe of your work.
 
Dan

A shot of primer, eliminates the reflection from the brass making it easier to see any remaining problems.  Almost there. A touch of Bondo will fix the pick marks under the port window- a result of too aggressive solder removal.
 

 
 

Next,  the bulkhead has been cleaned up to correct the above problems

The first shot of the completed bulkhead.  As posted above, digital photography reveals some problems:  there is an unsightly twist to the port side, the frame for the starboard door is not straight, and there are some nicks in the window frames.  Also, the angle between the bulkhead and the deck does not quite extend all of the way to the stbd. side.