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Everything posted by hollowneck
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Thanks druxey for the kind words! Now I can go to bed and have restful, no anxiety sleep...
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Back to Rigging. Shop time in the summer months slows waaaaaaay down for me. However, it doesn't disappear! An update on tools, materials and a little technique on one of the final stages of Camilla's standing rigging. The ratlines need trimming after some minor adjustments to the shrouds. All three masts now have their crowsfeet. Tying-off the ratlines to the futtock shrouds; tricky business tying-off clove hitches in these tight spots. A pair of fine tipped tweezers are essential for this work. After making final adjustments to each ratline I apply a tiny dab of Liquitex Matte Medium to each and every clove hitch "joint." As an adhesive, it dries within a few minutes and when dry is transparent and as the name suggests, matte. This is a better solution than applying CA or aliphatic glue. Over time, these rope knots can slacken and droop, randomly, depending upon the tension one initially applied. It's worth the additional time to take this final step after all the hours invested in this repetitive task. After the joints have dried, I use my tweezers and favorite pair of embroidery scissors to trim off the excess rope ends. The rope I used for the shrouds (Ropes of Scale, an NRG sponsor) is dark brown .7 & .8 mm. The ratlines are made from Ropes of Scale . 25 mm dark brown rope. These sizes present a good approximation of the relative rope sizes used on these ships. In this photo, it appears as though I'm snipping the thick main preventer stay, which I assure you I am not!! My tweezers is pulling an excess ratline end taut so I can more easily snip it off with needle-nosed scissors. A Tip: When doing this tedious, repetitive work, set a time limit for yourself. For me, this is not more than 3-4 hours maximum in a build session. I've found that if you spend too much time doing this critical work, you'll tend to get lax on the details. The "ratt'lin down" task can be a little "Zen-like"- a monotony of tying-off endless loops of tiny thread (rope) can almost put one in a trance-like state. That's when things can go South quickly if you don't check your work! And the clock. Take a break. In fact, I took a whole week between the main and the mizzen rat-lining! Some builders use a paper guide for adding ratlines. I "eyeball" my lines with frequent caliper checks on their spacing and also check that my side-to-side intervals are nearly identical as this symmetry is important. Note: Our visual acuity is very unforgiving when looking at objects in a horizontal plane that are the tiniest amount askew. Ratlines need to be level to the deck and consistent across the entire width of the shroud; this fact is especially true on the topmast rigging, which are the most difficult ratlines to execute cleanly. The next step for my build - before I get to mounting backstays and fashioning Camilla's many spars - is to make some cloth "screens" for all the top railings. I'll use regular bond copier paper for these, painted in an appealing crimson color. I'll lace each to the railings while I still have decent access before the breast and backstays are added. I've done a little research on the "cloths" in Lee's, their purpose and with some further advice from member druxey, I've decided to add these. Some of the period models I've seen in various museums show these on fully-rigged English warship models. On past models I mounted fine netting across the top railings. This model, something a little different.
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This is the Sweet Spot, Daniel. Welcome. Friendly, expert help and answers to just about anything you can think of about ship modeling!
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I don't think the count will matter unless it is a BESPOKE model...🤣
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Clever B.E., this may be the worst (reverse) pun I've heard this year! How can Ms. B.E. possibly be "on your case?" Nice choices on the channel knees and deadeyes. Both hues/wood choices suit perfectly with your build.
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Keep that pinky finger away from sandpaper or your MAC will remain locked forever!
- 488 replies
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Love the bench towel. So far, no apparent signs of blood, the true sign of an artisté...
- 488 replies
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This was a difficult decision for me too, deciding what to do with the fit of this decorative piece. I decided to "trim-off" a piece of the fretwork and mortise it against the top rail - as shown in the manual. I've noted that your approach aligned it nicely but the compromise was an awkward slope to the roof tiling. Here is a pic of how I approached this area. I also used a section of flat Evergreen styrene for my HMS Camilla capping rail and it worked a treat; I'm glad you also decided to paint it black. The ochre didn't look good to my eye either as this contrasting color interrupted the clean, continuous line of the black capping alongside the quarterdeck. I have a new aphorism for us detailed-obsessed ship modelers: Macro Never Lies...or, if you're feeling very satisfied, take a macro photo and see if you still feel the same way about your work. Your model is looking superb, B.E. Captain Barnacle must be pleased! Your hand painted transoms was such a good decision.
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I believe Indy's main topgallant mast would get entangled with the crystal chandeliers at the Watton's residence.
- 488 replies
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...don't tell anybody but I kinda like rigging....I hope to finish rigging by the end of July. As the Plague recedes, Summer beckons!
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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These puzzled me too. The large "hoop"- as well as the symmetry - is certainly something not intended for running rigging. I'll bet you're correct on these serving as crutches for a boom used for emergency jury-rigging broken rudder steerage.
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Nice detail. the slotted entry for the rope makes really good sense!
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Very interesting and clever...a mold to align and hold ribs. But I'll need to buy a load of those precision clamps!😆
- 216 replies
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- masterkorabel
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You've read my mind, Chris: the transatlantic telepathic distance presents no hindrance! For HMS Camilla, I'm planning on having one (1) superb, miniature Lord Cochrane placed on her Quarterdeck - and no others on board - this, a departure from including a small complement of crew figures on my diorama models. As you've suggested, having a single figure is adequate to show scale and admittedly, this is experimental on my part. If, at the end of the day, if it looks "goofy", inappropriate, I'll figure-out a way to add some more crew figures(pun intended). We'll see what presents itself when HMS Indy exits the shipyards in a year or two...should a Vanguard gun crew magically appear in the next few months, all bets are off! One gun crew = five (5) sailors X 64 guns = 320! Gulp.
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Psych!🤯...easily TWICE. Oh well, creative license by film directors.. should I build this one with sails I'm planning on having a separate room to display her! (if one browses through my history of builds below, most of them are displayed in my home, so I am truly fortunate to have SPACE..."The Final Frontier...") Not bragging, just thankful.
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You're not alone, Glenn. Hopefully by July my HMS Camilla's rigging may be done. So many grandchildren, so little time...
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks for the tip, B.E. I'm having difficulty visualizing the better arrangement from your description; so much to learn, so little time. However, I'm sure you're correct. I don't think I'm going to disturb these little creatures, uncertain that reversing them will present a "functionally correct" look (to my hybrid)! And, at the end of the day, this is now the decision of Captain Pennypincher - and I'm not going to risk a flogging...
- 542 replies
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I considered this, one aboard with another in tow...until recently deciding that Camilla will have shortened sail, on a chase in rough water, a looming squall ahead. Please don't shut up! I consider MSW's denizens as Better (knowledgeable) Angels, never harsh nor bothersome critics.
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Thank you kindly, B.E. As we know, "hybrids" for transportation are gaining in popularity. 😬 There will be many details to examine when HMS Camilla's completed. This is a large part of the journey we perfectionist ship modeling types pursue in our quests! I intend to have only one other item across her midship's skids: a spare topmast. This item and her boat should still leave some "space" to see all the work on her gundeck.
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I built this model years ago. I believe Chris designed this kit for Amati's "Victory" range somewhere in the early 2000's, perhaps even late 90's. These castings weren't terrible and, in fact, considerably better than some of the other offerings from unnamed Italian kit manufacturers. One of the main issues with these alloy castings is their ductility; very difficult to bend. I've heard that one should heat the metal, then with gloves gently bend them to suit. Silly process, but there was no alternative ...back in the day. Comparatively and more contemporary, resin rocks! - whether cast or 3D printed.
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