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hollowneck

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Everything posted by hollowneck

  1. For accurately-scaled belaying pins I can recommend the new 3D printed ones at Syren Ship Models. Chuck offers a couple sizes, the smallest (7mm) are perfect for 1:64. The pin's color is printed into the resin, no painting necessary. They will also take rope tension when belaying lines and not break. Attached pic is for my Vanguard gun brig "HM Cracker"
  2. Nyet! Falkonet is a Russian kit brand. Crafty Sailor (Canada) imported their stuff for a couple years along with Master Korabel (also Russian). Enter the invasion of Ukraine and... sanctions...Falkonet's aftermarket wood, perfectly-scaled belaying pins are excellent. The company still has a website: good luck ordering (and getting) merch from Russia (which is too bad).
  3. Me too. I suggest a triptych (series of 3). $30-40 range would work. Place a subtle, small brand for Syren in one corner.
  4. Glenn: https://www.agesofsail.com/shop-cat/vanguard-models-ship-model-kits/ Their indicated prices may be before the tariff debaucle and appear to be adjusted for the £ to USD premium. Hopefully, AOS have inventory pre-craziness so you don't have to navigate the U.S. Customs/tariff shipping nightmare.
  5. Your work is superb, the attention to detail underscores your desire to create a work of art. I couldn't help but notice your use of the Sakura pen to mark tiny holes; I use my set in the same way, couldn't model without them!
  6. It's true: Surprise has gone from clunky to amazing. Chris' hat size has increased by threefold over the last few months.😂
  7. Aha! time traveller Bob must have a Sassanach and a Bairn waiting at home, whatever the century. Congratulations Maurice, you've done your typical amazing work with Harpy. Another aspirational, top-drawer Build Log.
  8. Pray tell, does Topman Bob have a twin brother I could convince to jump ship?
  9. Another planking tip, one I use: drill a tiny "starter" hole for the planking pins, this helps minimize the effort to seat the temporary pins. This is a lot more work but well worth the effort IMHO. You'll end up bending many fewer pins as well as fewer expletives! In some areas of the planking where the tension wants to push the plank from the bulkhead I also drive the pin(s) flush. This helps insure there is better contact while the glue dries. HOWEVER - I have a pin pulling plier tool that can grip the flush heads of the pins to extract them. The tip of this tool will make a slight indentation in the wood surface around the pin's head, but so what? This only works for the first planking where small impressions from this extraction process will be covered. The small marks around the holes will also be filled-in once the filling and sanding work commences.
  10. Thanks for the clarification, Chris. A nice touch to furnish both black and white decals for the carriages.
  11. Jim, Nice post on the gun assembly details. I'm curious about the yellow color you've chosen for the carriages. How do we know that they were painted this color for the Surprise?
  12. Looking excellent, Maurice. Indeed, the ecstasy of toiling with ratlines awaits you. Suggestion: you can avoid this task by simply threading and weaving more sweeps between the shrouds...you've got a good start on the port foremast!🤣
  13. David, Please don't forget to create an album for your personal gallery with an active link at your signature; your completed photos are well done, sir!
  14. Beautiful work. I've come to your Build Log quite late, but as one says: "Better late than...."
  15. Very nice detail work on your rigging, Maurice. Thank you for sharing these techniques.
  16. Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order! To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break. AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.
  17. Decidedly esoteric. But that's what many of us do! I don't see that the ship's boat are too obscured by the topmasts on the gallows; I like this detail given your choices on a minimized rigging presentation. Looking wonderful!
  18. What a nice looking model, Clare. Suggestion: make your own silkspan "draped" ensign. It's a lot more work but worth it, especially for a non-rigged model like yours. I just did one for my latest, a gun brig (attached quickie shop pic). BTW: really nice baseboard, did you make and finish it? I like it. Please tell me it's not made of paper!🤨
  19. Ah-Ha! Your humor went right over my head. Too subtle. I'm fond of San Diego BTW. A large contingent of my family lives a couple miles away in Warminster. And many members of my modeling club (Philadelphia Ship Model Society) live in (Southern) Jersey. As a recent Connecticut to PA emigré, I still have much to learn about the various tribes of the Mid-Atlantic...e.g. South Jersey vs North Jersey, Delaware vs PA (and NJ).
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