johnothanswift

That looks really good, an interesting effect on the timber. And your colours on the timber look great too.

I've found that while stains are affected by even White glue, Winsor and Newton (In my case) oils, thinned with white spirits, and mixed to the required shade(s) give a great effect on my Billings Roar Ege. I tend to thin them heavily and apply multiple coats and shading. (Plastic kit modelling background) I know that there is an interesting conversation around the painting, or not painting, of wooden ship models, my personal take on this is that realism to the original is how I choose to present my models, and any other choice or opinion is equally correct, depending on the individual modeler concerned and their choices regarding the presentation of their model.

You'll never built the 'perfect' model because there are always things to improve. What I enjoy about this hobby is building each model (Plastic, wood, whatever.) to the best of my ability and then building the next taking that learning on board and building that kit to the best of my ability. ☺️ Like everything in life, the more you learn, the more skilled you become. For your first wooden kit your doing a very impressive job and I really appreciate your willingness to share your experience with the rest of us.

Kiwi Intervention. 😇 Don't be concerned about an Australians attitude, their behaviour and aggression is a learned defense mechanism to deal with the environment in which they live. Weak Australians were lost during the Emu War, or later eaten by Drop Bears. We have found that simply rubbing Vegemite into their hair and handing them a XXXX can (They can't spell beer) calms them down.

Looking great Jo, your doing an excellent job there. For sanding like that on the barrels I usually 'borrow' a cheap disposable nail file, preferable slightly used and they have a good straight edge and a bit of flex. If I'm quick enough it isn't noticed... 😇 I'd agree with giving the barrels a coat of matte, but that's only my opinion. Keep up the great work 😊

Much the same as I do I expect. 😂 We are all in the same boat.. (LOL), your doing a great job and your much braver than I am doing a build log as I'm really unwilling to say how long I'm taking to do my current Roar Ege (Billings) build as I'm not personally happy to expose my limitations and inability to get this build right due to this being my first try at a wooden ship build. ( That and working 60+ hours a week limiting my build time... ) And, no, Chocolate fish are very benign and, unlike your Australian Death Creatures, only exist to bring happiness, much like us Kiwi's. 😇 Edit; Actually the build is going well, I have made a few SNAFU's on the hull but nothing a Dremel won't be able to hide, the rib's are currently being fitted and are going in well and next up will be the false deck's, then planking them. I'm actually just embarrassed about both how long it's taking, and how long it's taking to get my head around the farcical paragraph of 'instructions' and learning to read plans that, rather than saying ' 'these are the measurements' just expect you to do them all yourself, without bothering to say, 'FYI, Do this...' It's all a long way away from plastic kits and their only issue being painting and weathering, which you also have to do with these kits. That and the fact that these wooden kit manufacturers historical research is dreadful.

😊 I think we've all built plastic kit's before we've gone to these wooden ships with their comical instructions and insanely vague (for me anyway) plan's and their manufacturers belief that you've had so much experience building these things that actual explanations regarding build details are unnecessary... (deep sigh) Your doing a great job and I'm learning a huge amount from both your build, and the wonderful feedback your getting from other members of this community. Many thanks to both yourself, for your great work, and all the members of this group who are helping both you, and the rest of us who are trying to increase our knowledge of this type of modelling and helping (me anyway) learn new skill's and ways of achieving a great outcome with these kits. (Kiwi idiom) Have a virtual chocolate fish as a reward. (Non fattening. 😻)

I've never tried the white Tamiya tape, only the yellow so I'll watch that if I use the white. Rust-oleum is a good brand, I've just painted a cane shelf unit for my partner with that although drying time is a bit slower in winter. I was giving it 1 day between coats but it's a bit colder here than it will be with you. Keep up the good work, I'm enjoying watching your build and this log will be a big help for many builders.

All part of the fun of modelling. ⚠️ A couple of questions. What paint are you using ? What masking tape are you using ? For masking, I suggest using specific modelling tape, I use Tamiya personally but this video covers a range of different types. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPRIsrfukdU The reason for this is domestic masking tape will frequently give the effect you experienced, the adhesive is too strong and pulls off the paint/varnish underneath. I've found the 18mm Tamiya tape, half on the model, the other half on newspaper to cover the rest of the model works well for me. Just remember, you learn far more from mistakes and errors. It's all a part of improving. And I think we've all experienced a wide range of 'issues' in our modelling. You'll sort it out. This may help non australians imagine the language in your house. Edit: I'd also suggest using brushes rather than sprays. I've found the paint adheres better, you have more control over coverage, (a number of thin coats again). There's also the point that that's how the originals were painted so bonus points for originality.

We've got an original cannon here from the Endeavour that may help you too. (Back Story) https://collections.tepapa.govt.nz/topic/977

I personally find disposable Nitrile gloves used in First Aid kits cost a bit more but work better for me, you can also use them when your treating your bleeding fingers.

I haven't tried Vallejo but I've found Tamiya is fine on PE on plastic kits, and I've heard (Not Tried !) that Mr Surfacer is even better.

"I don't know what has happened to me as I am thinking about what ship next to build, am I ill and should I go and see my doctor ??." That hull is looking damn good too, very well done.

The books are the only way to go :-) Your hull is looking great, sanding, filler, sanding, bog (yet more sanding), are 'the' way to go with double planking. Get a good base, 'foundation' then bring out the highlights with the second layer. 😊 (Please excuse the slight Kiwi sarcasm, as your an Aussi I'm sure you'll get it)

That's easy 😊 What is the ultimate answer to life, the universe, and everything... 😻 "Cambridge astronomers have found that 42 is the value of an essential scientific constant - one which determines the age of the universe." In his novel The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy (1979) Mr Adams describes how an alien race programs a computer called Deep Thought to provide the ultimate answer to "Life, the Universe and Everything". After seven and a half million years' calculation, back came the answer - 42. (Then the mice commissioned another computer, Earth, to come up with the question, unfortunately, Earth was destroyed by the Vogon's, to make way for a hyperspace bypass, before the answer was computed. It is suggested that psychiatrists, looking at preventing a loss of earnings, may have been behind this. Future earnings etc...... And, there is also the view that if we know the question and the answer simultaneously, then the universe will be substituted for something infinitely more complex.........) (There is another opinion that states that this has already happened) The Hubble Constant indicates the age of the universe because if we know how quickly everything is flying apart, we can work out how long ago it was all together at the same point - like working out how long a film has been running by measuring film and knowing how many frames per second it shows. Astronomers have bickered for decades about the constant's value, calculating it to be anywhere between 20 and 80. But large values imply that the universe is younger than its oldest stars - a logical conundrum which the new value avoids, said Dr Saunders, as it puts the universe's age at about 16 billion years. The Cambridge team produced the measurement by combining data from X- ray telescopes with information about cosmic background radiation, leftover energy in space from Big Bang. Dr Saunders insists future revisions will alter the value of the constant from its present, resonant value. That would suit Mr Adams: "It does come up awfully often," he said." FYI; The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy was published well before this Scientific Fact was confirmed.

Rule 1: DON'T PANIC. (Bonus points for getting the reference :-) ) Rule 2: Everything can be fixed. I've specifically brought a (cheap pre-built) kit which need's re decking and re planking just to get the experience of this before I build my Bounty. Rule 3: So what, It's all a learning experience. When you actually accept the above rules, it all gets much easier. The instructions for these kits are vague to say the least. They all expect that you've built them before you build this one. They require many years experience, based on trial and error for people who do not have this experience. That's the reason so many people give up. You have a great group around you to help and give their years of experience to help you learn and (NZ quote here) "Knock the bastard off" (Extra points there :-) ) Don't give up, just enjoy the build, enjoy the mistakes, enjoy the learning.

Avoid using a rasp if you have a Dremel. Use it like power sandpaper.😂 It is much kinder to creating the shape that you want to achieve. Think of fairing the hull to the art of shipbuilding. Your wanting to create a shape with the framing that allows the hull planking to conform to the ideal shape that is required with the perfect recreation of the ship you are building. There are lots of tutorials on the this site that will help you to achieve this. Just as 'Rome wasn't built in a day', the same applies to model ship building (or any modelling), take your time, measure twice etc..... Your building an awesome kit, keep up the great work. 😊

Congratulations, and best wishes for you both 😆 Your build is looking awesome and I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I've been eyeing up this kit myself and looking at your work is great encouragement, ( Just continuing to postpone my Bounty build till I get my skill level up. 😊 )

Bunnings is your friend again, I use these for almost everything as they are much easier to screw in and out.

Allow me. 👇 https://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm

Well, the czech language suffers a little with google translate and please ignore the software piracy bit............ But, we can all create brilliant models, and I fully agree with Doris that gender is irrelevant when it comes to pretty much everything. FYI, I'm stealing your awesome stand idea for my next build. Thank you. 😊 Keep up the great job.

Red is a very fast fading colour, this image of the painted model seems to be fairly accurate. But, many years of plastic modelling speaking, weathering and wear really add to a painted model. Then again, there is the widespread opinion here that going for an unpainted wood only build is the way to go. My personal opinion is that going for authenticity is the way to go, paint what was painted, with weathering if you want a used look, leave the rest as it was as used originally. I'm just pleased that my current Billings Roar Ege build can be weathered to eternity and beyond........

As I take it your Australian (Kiwi here) these are some cheap alternatives to expensive tools I use. Bunnings have a great range of cheap (NZ$1.20+) Fuller clamps in a range of sizes, I've found these to be invaluable. Also a set of small files can be more useful than sandpaper for some jobs, plus you get a range of shapes for fiddly jobs. Cheap $2.00 nail file packs can also be handy. A range of sandpaper grades, cut and glued onto small pieces of wood make great sanding blocks, cut the wood offcuts to whatever size and shape you need and you'll find that makes life easier too. 😊 Have fun.

You may well have already found this thread on The Ship Model Forum, if not it provides a wealth of information and links that may help you. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=23494 And Trumpeter are a highly regarded company in the plastic modelling world so I personally doubt that they 'stole' this kit from Revell and upscaled it. There is a large amount of reboxing and rebranding with plastic model kits, Revell as an example do a large amount of it so it's likely that the plans were sold to Trumpeter and there was the traditional SNAFU in certain areas of the kit. A situation not unknown with wooden kits I'm learning. 😊 I really wonder if some companies actually build any of their kits from a quality control standpoint before releasing them. Sometimes, it seems as if they didn't. Or didn't pay any attention to the builder who said.. " Umm, about this bit ??? "

And that's the reason I'm not doing a build log of my first build. It puts a lot of pressure on you to post 'regularly' and so far I've taken 5 months to build half the hull of Roar Ege. Seriously, who wants to read about that. For those of us first timers this is usually a labour of love, but also one which can take a long time due to 'stuff' causing a slow down of progress. I really admire those who have the time to put in regular hours but for many people work, family, not being able to have a dedicated workshop, all slow the building progress and the build log tends to be the first to go. Just my two cents worth but as Ryzuhr and I are both building similar models I fully understand the delays, and I have far fewer excuses for not showing greater progress. 😊