robert952

Thanks for sharing this info. It gives a new respect for sailing tall ships.

Since you mentioned "antiquarian and vintage" material, I share these details to add to Chris' comments. According to the article at this link on Publicdomainreview.org: Newly entering the public domain in 2023 will be: works by people who died in 1952, for countries with a copyright term of “life plus 70 years” (e.g. UK, Russia, most of EU and South America); works by people who died in 1972, for countries with a term of “life plus 50 years” (e.g. New Zealand, and most of Africa and Asia); films and books (incl. artworks featured) published in 1927 for the United States.

Good progress. Thanks for the new pics.

Glad to be of help.

I have this model in my stash but haven't built it yet. I did pull out the instruction manual. I hope I am on the right step (#9) and looking at the area of concern (rolling bevel). If I interpret the concept, the 'rolling bevel' allows the boards at the stem to be more flush than the 'clinker' fit of the rest of the planks. (Like a hybrid, clinker to carvel adapter?) I found an image I think shows this concept: Strakes at stem and stern. Post #3 in this thread by Mark P shows an image of a boat on the Cutty Sark. Notice the planks at the stem are flattened more and have a slight bend outward. I feel like I'm the blind leading the blind since I haven't built this model. Someone else may need to verify my thinking. (That way I can learn, too. ) I've been following the build and already have learned from it. Thanks for sharing your experinece.

Welcome to MSW, Bryan. I will be following this build. You will find a wealth of information on the website. If you have any questions, want advice, or need help on something, do not hesitate to post in your log or as a separate question in one of the other sub-forums. I looked at your pictures. You're off to a good start. I look forward to watching your progress. You might want to consider putting the pictures within the build log. For me, I sometimes lose track of what I have seen and not seen when the pics aren't in the log. You just click and drag the image into the box while you type your log. That makes it easy to follow your progress and any thoughts or comments you have as you work the project. There's a couple logs on Grand Banks Dories being built (from Blue Jacket and Model Shipways). I am following a couple of those builds also. I got the Model Shipways version recently and added it to my stash. I looked through the instruction manual and it looks like a nice model. Your build will add to the information on the web site on modeling this boat. Just our of curiosity, is this your first wooden model you've built? Or are you an 'old hand?" Any particular reason for this build? Again, welcome aboard.

Here's a hack for Word users (and probably other word processors). You might save a step in cut and paste process by highlight what you want on the web page in the browser (include images) and then click and drag into your Word document. Images come in at full size but those can be resized by double clicking the image and dragging a corner to fit the page better. (Be careful and don't grab a top or side handle - this changes the image's proportions.) As another side note, the image you drag in retains its link info to the website. In Word, CTRL + Click to open link to image (or right click image and 'Open Hyperlink). In a saved PDF version, double click the image. This may be useful if you want to go to the 'originally sized' image. If the image is deleted from the website's server, of course, it won't work. Still a tedious process. But maybe a bit of time can be saved instead of using two or three pieces of software and reassembling for PDF. (I also use the above click and drag method with OneNote when I want to plagiarize...I mean...copy stuff for personal use only. The advantage with OneNote is that the URL is captured and added at the bottom of the stuff you highlighted and dragged into OneNote. That allows you to return to the website to review as desired. Not too much help for making a PDF of a build log. But it's a great tool when you research using the web and want to capture stuff 'on the fly.' Just thought I'd mention this in passing for those looking for more software tools.)

I know it's likely a matter of the angle and position of the camera. However, it's a good thing you put the skylight in so the masts can stand tall. 😉 Looking great and a lot of visual information on how you assembled components.

I see the issue. As I said I hadn't done too much experimenting and hadn't done multiple web pages yet. But the output was very clean which would be my goal. I can see the pain that would be. Edited note. My apologies. My previous comments were out of line. I reread my post. I am not sure what I was thinking when I wrote them. I did not intend for them to come across as they did. I really do appreciate the effort pit forth to make the task easier..

I send my thanks and appreciation to those who have done some investigation on a process for the website. I had never thought of this aspect, but I definitely see the value of having a PDF of a build log. If you are only concerned with an archived copy to have on our PC's hard drive, I offer the following. These work by just pasting in a URL and clicking a convert button. I just wanted to post the option if others wanted to investigate free services. I googled 'web page to pdf" and got to this link: Top 6 Online Webpage to PDF Converters Note: the link to the article is hosted by Wonderware. They have a fee based service but it's still fairly high for the very casual user. They do have a one-time $130 version. But they say you may have to pay for 'major updates.' They cover the downside of free services and have a sales pitch at the bottom of the article. They are spot on for the downsides. But if you only do one or two a year, why pay a high fee. I started running some 'tests' and will give more details next week. The admiral is packing our bags for a weekend road trip. So, I won't finish my checks until late Sunday or sometime Monday. (And, before the rest of the Admirals post anything: Yes, I do pack my own stuff.) Two of the top six do produce good results so far: PDF on Fly and PDF Crowd. I couldn't get Web Page to PDF to load. At HiPDF site I did not see a web to PDF button though the article indicates it will do that conversion. I haven't looked at the last two: Web2PDF and FreePDF Maker. I'll look at those when I get back home. Outputs for the ones I tested open well in Adobe Acrobat, Google Chrome and PDF Fusion. The latter is the PDF creator I have used (apparently I updated in 2020) avail from Corel ($55 US). The software has some issues that I have learned to live with since I don't create a lot of PDFs. For some reason, using either of the above converters, PDF Fusion displays some of my capital i's and lower case L's in bold face. A minor issue if I only want an archive copy of my build log. But I can also use other viewers. Chrome and Acrobat display the text as on the web page. I haven't done any hard prints of the outputs, just viewed on screen. The outputs, while PDF, differ in spacing, font size and margins, whether they show the banner or not, have an 'ad' at the bottom, etc. More details later. (I also don't know if they have limits on document length. 678 pages is a lot of pages and I am sure long conversion times. One (PDF on Fly) definitely has a daily limit on number of conversions. I used my own build log that's not a full web page long. So, the process was short time frame with relatively few pages. PDF on Fly - 17 pages tiny font; PDF Crowd - 26 pages using same sized font as web page but has 'ad line' on bottom of each page. PDF Crowd my favorite so far. I can live with the small tag in the footer area of each page for an archive copy considering the price I paid for the conversion. 😁 Hope you found this information useful.

Nice log. I did this plastic model nearly 50 years ago as it came in the box. It is a matter of if I knew then what I know now, I'd have done it a bit differently. However, my efforts likely not go as far as you are going here. You do spark ideas. (Though, I am not sure if I still have a copy of the model in my stash. Great work. I look forward to watching this build.

I look forward to this workshop.

Quite a build log. I see why this is an interesting project. Nice work. Thanks for sharing your experiments with snow and such.

Don't put it past me. I don't plan on moving it a lot. I knew this post was a bit OT. Thanks for the indulgence. I thought it was a bit humorous and worthy of sharing. Also thanks for the suggestions. I doubt I'll go with glass as I am likely to accidentally drop something on the glass.

I know you are all waiting with bated breath on the project. I can say the project was a success. Even the Admiral says, "It look good!" My nautical library provided the needed support to the project. Proof that having good research material is important. Now it's just a matter moving furniture around and placing a couple of rugs.

The Admiral keeps asking, "Do you really use all these books?" pointing to my nautical/modeling library. Today, I showed her. I am putting a Vyco cover (5-layer vinyl covering usually used on drafting tables) on my old computer desk. It will be my modeling work station when I finish. (The cover is 37X60 inches and will be cut to fit my 24X57 desk with a leftover piece cut to fit my 22X10 keyboard tray.) The instructions say to unroll the material and let it lay flat at room temperature for 24 hours. Vyco recommends using books to help the material relax lay flat after being rolled up for shipping. (Hmmm, sounds a lot like what I like to do - relax with a book, usually laying on my chest as I lay flat.) So, yes, dear, I really do need all those books.

@Dave_E It will be my 30+-year old computer desk, 2 X 5 ft surface with shelves on one end and down the right side. (One of those is a printer tray. I see open top boxes/trays there for holding tools and supplies. I am not sure about whether to keep the keyboard tray on it. Such might make a nice surface a few inches lower that desk top. I plan on covering the 30+ year old top with something similar to VYCO used on drafting tables. But what I find runs in the 100 bucks range. I am still looking into that.

@kurtvd19 Yeah. And I re-evaluated the size on the desktop too. The item takes up a lot of real estate on the bench top. Good points. @Bob Cleek I have a similar for my hardware hoarding habit. The one I have has two sizes of drawers and about the same size. @Roger Pellett My vice is on my garage work bench. I doubt I can use that for what I am thinking...but, it does raise the question of mounting a 'third hand tool.' The other issue is to slide something under the bed means carrying it upstairs. @Jaager Good alternative for a custom made solution. Thanks to all for your responses. I was leaning towards not a good idea. And your comments helped confirm that thought.

My intent is to 'store' only tools and items being used for the current model under construction. If I use the desk as I plan, I have 5 shelves for 'storing' other things (like more tools and supplies.) Thanks for the quick response.

Has anyone used the OcRe Workshop Cabinet Kit? Links to Micromark - their price is on the low end of going rates. Can you advise any pros and cons? The OcCre site indicates a 'Lifetime Warranty' but I assume it limited. I can see that while it may assemble easily, some glue to hold it together would likely be advisable. Using the cutting mat grid and assuming 1/2" marks, the material seems to be around 1/4" thick (maybe a bit less - 3/16?). MDF that thick should be stable enough to store material and keep tools handy and still be 'portable.' The movable top seems like it would make a work surface for small models (my current trend right now). I would seem one could put subassemblies on that shelf, also. Is there any similar alternative to something like this out there? I hope to set up something in the living area of the house that, if needed, can be dismantled when we have company (cover with a cloth and use as a buffet in that case). My current computer desk (a 2X5 ft surface with end shelves along the sides) fits the bill and I can get a smaller computer desk that sits more out of the way. Thanks for any advice, input, and feedback.

I have had this happen when using my cell phone in the middle of a series and I did not change the camera orientation. I chock it up to a mystery of the universe. (A couple of times I cannot categorically state I did not rotate the camera on some series. So, user error is always a potential possibility.) If you download pics to your PC and they are upside down, there's an easy fix. From the file manager, put your cursor on the photo to be rotated. Right click. There's two command choices in the drop down menu: Rotate Left and Rotate Right. Click either one of them twice to rotate the photo 180 degrees. Saves loading up a photo editor just to rotate the pics.

Welcome to MSW, @LEFEBVRE While the forum guidelines specify English, there is a translate tool built into the Google Chrome browser if someone should post in a different language. To use it you right click on the page you want translated. There is a translate to English option. This tool might help you translate English to French as you read the forum threads as you can select which languages to work translate. It works quite well even on pages with multiple languages. I have used it on a page with French, Czech, and German on the same page The browser translated all of them. (Even my southern accent translates. ) Even a Japanese site I visit fairly regularly, the browser translates the page to English though the grammatic structure is strange. However, you can still get the gist of the information. Just a tidbit for those who also peruse websites hosted in different countries.

Question about post #422: The container looks smaller than a standard 'pill sorter.' Are looks deceiving? Is it a standard pill holder or something else? Where could I get a couple of them? Thanks for reply.

I'm following, too. It looks interesting from standpoint of the potential to add details based on whatever research you might do on this type of boat. And as you point out a lot of improvisation seems to be required. I find the instruction sheet interesting. "Spacing between frames is about 2"." That's the way I usually measure stuff. I am not very 'toleranced.' I am a firm believer in cut first and ask questions later. The image they use does look sound for this point of the build.

Superb looking model. I really like the details of the ship's boats. Thanks for sharing.