robert952
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Everything posted by robert952
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Quite a build log. I see why this is an interesting project. Nice work. Thanks for sharing your experiments with snow and such. -
Don't put it past me. I don't plan on moving it a lot. I knew this post was a bit OT. Thanks for the indulgence. I thought it was a bit humorous and worthy of sharing. Also thanks for the suggestions. I doubt I'll go with glass as I am likely to accidentally drop something on the glass.
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I know you are all waiting with bated breath on the project. I can say the project was a success. Even the Admiral says, "It look good!" My nautical library provided the needed support to the project. Proof that having good research material is important. Now it's just a matter moving furniture around and placing a couple of rugs.
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The Admiral keeps asking, "Do you really use all these books?" pointing to my nautical/modeling library. Today, I showed her. I am putting a Vyco cover (5-layer vinyl covering usually used on drafting tables) on my old computer desk. It will be my modeling work station when I finish. (The cover is 37X60 inches and will be cut to fit my 24X57 desk with a leftover piece cut to fit my 22X10 keyboard tray.) The instructions say to unroll the material and let it lay flat at room temperature for 24 hours. Vyco recommends using books to help the material relax lay flat after being rolled up for shipping. (Hmmm, sounds a lot like what I like to do - relax with a book, usually laying on my chest as I lay flat.) So, yes, dear, I really do need all those books.
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"Work bench" feed back please
robert952 replied to robert952's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
@Dave_E It will be my 30+-year old computer desk, 2 X 5 ft surface with shelves on one end and down the right side. (One of those is a printer tray. I see open top boxes/trays there for holding tools and supplies. I am not sure about whether to keep the keyboard tray on it. Such might make a nice surface a few inches lower that desk top. I plan on covering the 30+ year old top with something similar to VYCO used on drafting tables. But what I find runs in the 100 bucks range. I am still looking into that. -
"Work bench" feed back please
robert952 replied to robert952's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
@kurtvd19 Yeah. And I re-evaluated the size on the desktop too. The item takes up a lot of real estate on the bench top. Good points. @Bob Cleek I have a similar for my hardware hoarding habit. The one I have has two sizes of drawers and about the same size. @Roger Pellett My vice is on my garage work bench. I doubt I can use that for what I am thinking...but, it does raise the question of mounting a 'third hand tool.' The other issue is to slide something under the bed means carrying it upstairs. @Jaager Good alternative for a custom made solution. Thanks to all for your responses. I was leaning towards not a good idea. And your comments helped confirm that thought. -
"Work bench" feed back please
robert952 replied to robert952's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My intent is to 'store' only tools and items being used for the current model under construction. If I use the desk as I plan, I have 5 shelves for 'storing' other things (like more tools and supplies.) Thanks for the quick response. -
Has anyone used the OcRe Workshop Cabinet Kit? Links to Micromark - their price is on the low end of going rates. Can you advise any pros and cons? The OcCre site indicates a 'Lifetime Warranty' but I assume it limited. I can see that while it may assemble easily, some glue to hold it together would likely be advisable. Using the cutting mat grid and assuming 1/2" marks, the material seems to be around 1/4" thick (maybe a bit less - 3/16?). MDF that thick should be stable enough to store material and keep tools handy and still be 'portable.' The movable top seems like it would make a work surface for small models (my current trend right now). I would seem one could put subassemblies on that shelf, also. Is there any similar alternative to something like this out there? I hope to set up something in the living area of the house that, if needed, can be dismantled when we have company (cover with a cloth and use as a buffet in that case). My current computer desk (a 2X5 ft surface with end shelves along the sides) fits the bill and I can get a smaller computer desk that sits more out of the way. Thanks for any advice, input, and feedback.
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Uploading pictures
robert952 replied to wernerweiss's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
I have had this happen when using my cell phone in the middle of a series and I did not change the camera orientation. I chock it up to a mystery of the universe. (A couple of times I cannot categorically state I did not rotate the camera on some series. So, user error is always a potential possibility.) If you download pics to your PC and they are upside down, there's an easy fix. From the file manager, put your cursor on the photo to be rotated. Right click. There's two command choices in the drop down menu: Rotate Left and Rotate Right. Click either one of them twice to rotate the photo 180 degrees. Saves loading up a photo editor just to rotate the pics. -
TRADUCTION MESSAGES
robert952 replied to LEFEBVRE's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Welcome to MSW, @LEFEBVRE While the forum guidelines specify English, there is a translate tool built into the Google Chrome browser if someone should post in a different language. To use it you right click on the page you want translated. There is a translate to English option. This tool might help you translate English to French as you read the forum threads as you can select which languages to work translate. It works quite well even on pages with multiple languages. I have used it on a page with French, Czech, and German on the same page The browser translated all of them. (Even my southern accent translates. ) Even a Japanese site I visit fairly regularly, the browser translates the page to English though the grammatic structure is strange. However, you can still get the gist of the information. Just a tidbit for those who also peruse websites hosted in different countries.
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Question about post #422: The container looks smaller than a standard 'pill sorter.' Are looks deceiving? Is it a standard pill holder or something else? Where could I get a couple of them? Thanks for reply.
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I'm following, too. It looks interesting from standpoint of the potential to add details based on whatever research you might do on this type of boat. And as you point out a lot of improvisation seems to be required. I find the instruction sheet interesting. "Spacing between frames is about 2"." That's the way I usually measure stuff. I am not very 'toleranced.' I am a firm believer in cut first and ask questions later. The image they use does look sound for this point of the build.
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Superb looking model. I really like the details of the ship's boats. Thanks for sharing.
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Pantyhose/stocking/tulle/nylon make great camera filters. (I know...slightly OT...but they work well as a diffuser filter.)
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Ryland's (#21 above) serves as an excellent method.
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Thanks for the tip about JB Weld. As I get closer to finishing an area I may look at that. (Like while I can still get to the insides of the model, before I mount the bottom hull.
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Step 06 Outer deck with edge Step 07 Bending the deck edge; adding the smoke stack and center rails Some of the steps require only a couple of operations. So, I will combine these two on this post. Here's the deck piece removed from the frame. After putting the deck in place, I did do some minor bending of the edge for test fitting. The above ends step 06. Step 07 starts with bending the edge, curving along the bow and stern, and bending the tabs. On an subsequent evening after taking the above photo, I tweaked the bends a bit more to get a better shape and fit. The smoke stack was formed using a 3/16" bolt as a mandrel. The stack is installed on the upper deck. A support piece for the stack required bending and installation. As before, PVA glue on these two pieces help secure them into proper position. Finally, rails that run along the centerline was installed. With this done, I will get back to working Step 08. Again, during this build, I have contractors in and out doing a downstairs renovation. I'll probably do more on step 08 since the painters will be doing their thing over the next couple of days. As a preview, Step 08 covers bending and attaching the davits, life boat support, life boat, and smoke stack supports for the port side. Step 09 repeats the process for the starboard side. Thanks to those following this build. I hope you find it interesting.
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Step 05 Putting sub-assemblies 1 through 4 together. The step is simple sounding enough. Remember that adage about reading the instructions through before starting assembly? It pays off. You can see potential issues and they won't be as likely to surprise you. When I assembled the cannons and other bits to the bow and stern bulkhead sub-assemblies, I anticipated quite a bit of adjustments to get all the Tab A's to line up with Slot B's. I was not disappointed and the amount of work was as expected. So, with a lot of jiggling and wiggling along with a bit of cussin' and fussin' I got the parts to bend and fold properly. Here's the four pieces to be assembled. And a couple of views of the final results. Port side view. (Yes, the step to bend and fasten the rail on the aft portion of the deck comes later. I keep worrying about that piece as it has been bent a couple of times. ) A more oblique view of the assembled upper portion.
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Step 04 Forward bulkhead with pilot house This is very short and quick. The step shapes the bow bulkhead with pilot house. As before, enough bending of the piece to generally fit as the next step (Step 05) joins all the assemblies of Steps 01 through 04. I figured (and correctly so) this step will take a lot of finagling and finesse to get everything to fit. But, I did have my first catastrophe. In shaping one of the gun port shutters, the piece broke. Not sure why. I bent it once, but must have applied too much pressure. It was a 180 degree bend. So, the image shows the one gun port in place. At the end I may be able to use a scrap piece and create something that looks like the shutter and match colors with paint. (Or I will call it battle damage if anyone asks.)
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Step 03 Starboard side I'll quickly cover this step. For all intents and purposes, the steps for starboard duplicate the port with ladders and four cannons. There is a bit of a curving of the bulkhead for the aft. I didn't do a lot of bending because, having done the right thing of looking at all the instructions before starting, the bend will have to match the deck curve and line up with the port side. The ladders and guns followed the previous methods for assembly and installation. Two shutters were added to the aft gun port. Completed starboard side (crooked ladders and all).
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Step 02 Ladders and cannons This step works on the port side of the model. I get to install the ladders and cannons. Again, as is usual with model building, each step of the process has several sub-steps. First, the size of the ladder pieces. The one on the left shows the 'etched' side and the right side the back side. You need to keep these in mind when putting the model together. Now the part that probably requires having done many of these metal models to learn a good technique: keeping things straight. You will note the ladders are not quite straight (OK, the lean a lot.) No matter what I did, during the process of bending the tabs, I couldn't keep them straight. A tiny shift creates a big visual difference. I didn't want to push my luck with 'unbending' and 'rebending' the parts. The instructions warn that more than two times bending and straightening risks breaking the part. (Spoiler alert: The starboard side won't be any better. I am a slow learner.) Now come the four cannons for this side of the ship. Here is the cannon in flat form. The grooves help roll the barrel. My method used a 1/16" drill bit as a mandrel. The front of the barrel gets bent over after forming the barrel The cannon barrel then mounts to the box which in turn gets folded and mounted to the bulkhead from the inside of the model. I did that four times and completed Step 02.
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Ok... More than "a day or two" has passed. RL getting in the way a bit. (Minor issue with subfloor during reno, family gathering over the weekend). Step 01 Hatches and vents The process begins with the roof deck of the Merrimack. (Yes, I know that to be accurate this is really the CSS Virginia at the time of the battle. I am just keeping with the nomenclature used by Metal Earth.) I do want to illustrate the scale of the model (1:393). Besides being a strange scale, the parts are small. You might ask "How small are they?" Glad you asked. The first piece to put in place are covers (millimeter scale) for hatches on the deck. Two of these go onto two small hatches. On a larger hatch there's four similar (but smaller) pieces. Here's the three hatches placed in approximate location. And installed... That completes Step 01. (The instruction sheet calls it step 1 but use leading zeroes with the correct number of significant digits. A habit I developed in my software writing days to keep track of variables, file names and other things that may need to be sorted. ) Again, the true size of the model is shown.
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Just a thought...Are there enough logs on this model to justify a 'Group Project' thread?
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Thanks, Ken. I'll look into those. I don't have issue with CA but figure a PVA or something like you mention will do the job.
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