robert952

Hmm, maybe even easier than that @Mic_Nao Looks like a countersunk head machine screw used. Solder a matching nut on the end of the screw in lieu of a handle. Brass bar stock instead of aluminum plate?

I just had an 'I wonder' thought... How much will this model weigh when it's complete? (And then the follow up question: Where will it be displayed?

Great build that can inspire others to expand their abilities and skill sets.

You are quite welcome. Glad to help. To your comment about stepping the mast when needed, there's a note on the two-masted sketch describing how to store the mast and sails. Necessity is indeed the Mother of Invention. I think Chappelle just collected the drawings and pulled them together for his books. He then commented on the "whys and wherefores." I like going through this book as it shows variations that were done to meet specific tasks or unique needs based on locale. As you point out, adding a sail seems a good way to get your feet wet on scratch build aspects. Hence, why I plan to add a keel, rudder and sail to a 'kit build.' A lot of these work boats included a sail to otherwise traditional row boats. As you found, there's photos which documents such changes.

Here are the scans. The print on the original page appears smudged. But you can use the scale on the page to get a decent approximation for the size of the sails. With one mast. NOTE: If you look at the position of the mast it appears to be in the second thwart. Likely because the jib covers the first thwart and attaches at the bow. So, it may be a genetic aberration? Evolution has a way of changing things and no single example is the exact way things were always done. You are as likely to have done it correctly as the any other model. And the two-mast version. Again, both of these examples have rudder and center board. If you down load these and they have gotten resized, PM me an email address and I will send them to you. I scanned them at 600 dpi to give as much detail as possible. Source for these are: American Small Sailing Craft by Howard, L. Chapelle copyright 1951 by WW Norton and Company. Pages 91 (top image) and 93. (bottom image).

Using sails to get and from the 'ole fishing hole' or for other purposes (i.e. lighthouse tender) seems a fairly common evolution for these work boats. Hence, my plans for my Peapod build is to add a sail (if I ever get the planking done). I am using Chapman's American Small Sailing as my source for that purpose. For dories Chapman states the sail was "usually a mast hole in the forward thwart that carried a loose footed spritsail. Sometimes a jib was set." Further he points out that "since the dory had neither keel nor centerboard, the sails were only effective running free and the use of a jib seems to have been an affection."(pg 89) But, he then discusses (on the next page) 'shore dories' with a centerboard. He includes two plans, one showing the sprit-mainsail and jib rig and another two-masted sailing rig both with centerboards and rudders. I can scan the plans and post if you would like. The drawings are dated 1939 for the sprit sail and 1831 using what looks more along the lines of a 'leg of mutton' (?) set up - I think.

Adding these details takes a kit to the next level. Good job.

Super build. I enjoyed following along. Thanks for the details of your experiences.

Greetings and welcome aboard. If it's the first model you have built, you may want to review this thread: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13703-for-beginners-a-cautionary-tale/page/8/#comment-977787 The recommendation from above (short version) start small to build your skills. (Be honest with yourself to avoid frustration down the road.) As for tools it depends on the model and scale you plan to build. The list you have is a good start for basic tool kits. You could also review some starter tool kits like this one to see what you might want to consider. (Those kits may or may not have things you really need.) You may need smaller clips and maybe larger. Tape (painter's tape) proves useful to me for test fitting and holding things in place temporarily (as with test fitting, holding things as glue cures, and of course, to help with masking off areas during the painting process. I'd suggest some type of 90 degree square (machinist square). I'd suggest at least two to square up two faces and allow you to work on more than one frame/bulkhead. When building plank-on-bulkhead or plank-on-frames, getting the frames set properly is critical. Some models give you a building rig of some type. However, I have found it a good idea to be sure you check they are square. Look at Micromark and Model Expo for these while shopping. You can find different price points. Find what your budget can stand. Tweezers! Be sure to have a couple of different sizes with self-locking in the mix. There's some 'kits' that have a selection of tweezers that might be a good start until you figure out which type works best for you. As to glue/adhesives, again, a lot depends on your model, how things fit, how fast parts need to set, etc. Also, if you plan on using photoetched parts, plastic, and different materials ,may require different types of glue. I'll leave room for others to join in with their list. As you will likely find with this thread, you will get a lot of opinions and ideas. Good luck. Keep us posted with a build log when you start.

Looks good. Thanks for sharing the pic.

jumping on board for this build.

I was discussing modeling tools with a couple of NRG members the other day. We agreed that sometimes the tool we need doesn't exist and we improvise and create our own. I love the repurposed Exacto knife sheath and piece of scrap wood in use here. A good example of necessity being the Mother of Invention.

It's in my stash. I think it good to follow along to see what I have in store for my (eventual) build.

Interesting (and different) aspect of nautical history. Thanks for sharing the research. Great read.

Thanks for the detail in the log. I appreciate the time you take to write about how you have experimented with techniques.bThis info can prove to be a help to others building this model. Also, your experiences can be applied to similar work. I think every model can be a learning experience for the model builder and those of us following along.

@Mike Collier Thanks for stopping in. Ran into an issue that I have to correct. When I fix that I will get back on track. @Knocklouder Thanks for joining the ride.

I had read on the forum (somewhere, sometime) about using hair clamps as they aren't 'aggressive' to borrow the term. Bobby pins with scrap wood like you do seems a good solution too. Thanks for the images.

Fantastic model! Nicely displayed.

I am giving one of these boat models to my Dad for Father's Day. I pointed out this site so he can seek answers to questions as he progresses. IMO I find details like in this log goes a long way to answering questions for people just starting into the hobby or (like me) just looking for verification of what we are doing. Keep up the nice work. I'm adding this log to my 'watch list.' I'm looking forward to watching the progress.

This thread is a good example of why I like the forum. State a problem, ask for help, get multiple solutions to review. Pick what works best for your project. Though not a current problem I have, I'll file the info under - 'just in case.'

After posting, I reread the other entries. I can see an issue as pointed out that a bit of pressure could shift the 'target'. I find the 'ball and joint' like this item difficult t o use. For some reason I can't get the ball joint tight enough to stay in place and have similar problems to what's described. Hence I use the 'quad hand' approach.

Ah... I see now. Here's my video and 'solution'. As you can see, if it put a sharp bend to the arm it springs back. But a more gentle curve stays in place. Again, I am not sure it answers your question. But I could at least duplicate your video. I guess I never really did a sharp bend. I do note (now that you piqued my curiosity) if I bend the long arms back against a curve - like an S - the spring back is more pronounced. Again, I guess I never used these much that way. Hope this helps. BTW - a word of thanks. I have never loaded a vid to YouTube. I knew from what people said it was not hard. However, I had just never done it before. I guess now I can add 'Youtuber' to my CV. 😎

Not that it helps you, however, the I have two. Neither one has any spring back on the arms. One is from Quad Hands (with magnets). The other I have has the arms bolted from the underside in the corners of the plate. I got the second one as a gift and do not know which brand it is. There's no identifier on the second one. It's likely from KOTTO as I had it on my Amazon wish list. All the arms on both appear identical, move smoothly and have no spring back (or a very tiny amount). They hold in position once set. As I said, I don't have the problem you have. I would be one who gives this a 5 star rating. As I say, I know this doesn't help your situation.

Nice looking model. Good job.

I will light some incense and see if it will attract the attention of your muse. 🕯️ (OK. scented candle.)