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iMustBeCrazy

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  1. iMustBeCrazy
    I think you're going to need thicker than 1mm. This is for a BR1 engined Camel and (if I'm right) you would need 218.5 ÷ 16 ÷ 8 giving 1.7mm for this prop. Yours wouldn't be far off that.
  2. iMustBeCrazy
    No problem, when you haul the flag up one side of the line (the one you pulled on) will be under tension. If the side under tension presses on the sail it will deform the sail or chafe or both. In the Mermaid example, if you hauled the flag up the starboard side of the sail the line to port would be the line under tension but it would be clear of the sail. However if you tacked the sail would then press against it. Meanwhile, my diagram only shows that when the boom is swung out the point where the line is tied off is still accessible from the deck. If as I suggested above, it was tied off above the mainsheet you would have to crawl out the boom to reach it.
  3. iMustBeCrazy
    Lightbulb moment. As far out as can still be reached from the deck.
  4. iMustBeCrazy
    I agree, flag halyard. On the Harriet, tied off at the boom as in your Gunboat and in use. However, the flag would have to come down and go back up each time you tacked. On the Gunboat, if they took it to above the mainsheet that could be avoided.
  5. iMustBeCrazy
    Yeah, just skimmed 'Narrative of a Survey Volume 1'. He mostly just refers to 'the boat', sometimes 'the whale boat' or 'the jolly-boat' and once 'the small whale boat' (which implies two sizes). When he refers to 'the cutter' he is talking about the Mermaid. One of the boats was lost while being towed and a new one built from the spare frames. I doubt it, on length alone the three big boats could be Launches, Cutters, Yawls, Gigs, Life boats or Wherries but a breadth of around 5 feet would rule out all of those except Wherries. And King's sketches seem to be double ended. Given King's remarks, go with Whale boats. Who does?
  6. iMustBeCrazy
    I assume you mean me, I've been called a lot of names before but that's a first Not they, that was written by the man himself. It seems that boat naming conventions can be a bit loose. He gives 1st cutter, 2nd cutter, Jolly (or is it Joley) and cutter in frames. So you have to build four then take one apart.
  7. iMustBeCrazy
    Ok, this should nail it down for you: From http://digital.sl.nsw.gov.au/delivery/DeliveryManagerServlet?dps_pid=FL1032664&embedded=true&toolbar=false
  8. iMustBeCrazy
    Relative size:
  9. iMustBeCrazy
    Chris, what I think is mostly guesses, same as everybody else. Based on the painting, I wouldn't go over 12' for the Jolly boat and I wouldn't be surprised if it was actually 10' but in CAD I get about 10' 10". Cradle of some sorts certainly but perhaps wedges. Those boats must have been securely lashed down. Hard to do on a flat surface without crushing them. The last drawing is supposedly to scale, measuring the whaleboat in CAD I get 20' 6" but there must be a margin for error.
  10. iMustBeCrazy
    G'day Chris, Working from what's available: Jolly boat on davits. Boat in water approx 11 feet. Whaleboat location and length (approx 20' 6") Scales are a bit wishy washy so your 20' whaleboats should be fine.
  11. iMustBeCrazy
    I tracked down the Brighton gun, at Brighton Beach Gardens near the end of South Rd. So, where are the other 15? Perhaps used as moorings at Williamstown.
  12. iMustBeCrazy
    More info: Perhaps 15 to 29 of these around! http://www.cerberus.com.au/reenactors/68_pounder_slideshow.html gives: Ballarat 4 (Eureka Park) 10280, 10284, 10334, 10481 (from another site, perhaps more at View Point, Lake Wendouree attributed to the Nelson but....) Bonegilla 1 10350 Brighton 1 10504 Daylesford 1 10491 Drysdale 1 10276 Moonee Ponds 2 10496, 10498 Port Fairy 2 10502, 10509 7261, 7271 (numbers off barrel not trunnion?) Portland 2 10339, 10302 Warrnambool 1 10310 7045 (number off barrel not trunnion?) This site https://victoriancollections.net.au/items/55b77c242162f119c85679d4 gives "There are only seven 32 Pounder SB made by Carron and fifteen 68 Pounder SB made at Low Moor known to exist in the State of Victoria" with (Reference; Victorian Guns and Cannons, South Western Victoria Assessment, May 2008, item W/B/01; Flagstaff Hill Maritime Village datasheets and archives). But I can't find that document.
  13. iMustBeCrazy
    Looks like there's a few around, 2 at Port Fairy, 2 at Portland, 1 at Warrnambool, 1 at Moonee Ponds plus yours. I noted there was a recommendation to purchase 19 so there might be some more somewhere. This one is at Port Fairy, I took it back in 2015: This is a link to the Moonee Ponds one: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cannon_located_at_Queens_Park_at_Moonee_Ponds.jpg EDIT, looks like there are two in Moonee Ponds (Queens Park) 10496 and 10498.
  14. iMustBeCrazy
    Some info: http://home.iprimus.com.au/artillerist/news.html
  15. iMustBeCrazy
    Hank, compare these two. Their cheapest portable with their second cheapest (by $6.00) wall unit. https://www.edgestar.com/koldfront-portable-air-conditioners/PAC802W.html https://www.edgestar.com/koldfront-through-wall-air-conditioners/WTC8001W.html Although they are both 8000 BTU of cooling the portable only claims to cool 150 square feet whereas the wall unit claims 350. The wall unit also heats, the portable doesn't. The portable also uses slightly more power to cool less than 1/2 the area. Hope this helps.
  16. iMustBeCrazy
    From best to worst, Split system Box (wall mount) Dual hose portable (if you can get one, they stopped selling them here) Single hose portable A single hose portable sucks outside air in at the same rate it spits hot air out the hose, if the air outside is hot then the only cooling will be directly in front of the unit, the rest of the shed will be close to outside air temp. A dual hose sucks outdoor in one hose, heats it up and spits it out the other. Generally the best budget buy will be a Box A/C if you have the wall space.
  17. iMustBeCrazy
    A bit to digest there, the headache doesn't help. (real headache, not caused by you). Using CAD I'm able to use segments of the sheer plan stations, draw in the head and heel, offset a copy by the moulding at the heel and rotate the head to the moulding at the head, compose (join) the four lines in to an object (futtock etc) and so draw each timber in each bend retaining the curves. I'll probably stick to this method. 39 vertical bends and 23 cant frames plus a couple of extra little bits. The other bit is I want these to be drawings of how to build the ship, so each bend and each cant frame has to be drawn anyway. Perhaps you begin to see why I chose my user name.
  18. iMustBeCrazy
    No need to groan, I'm only doing a rough PoB so I can figure out the stern. Probably only do the aft third and only plank one side above the wale. But while I'm doing that I might as well draw the extra bulkheads. I will continue trying to draw all bends and the cant frames for PoF plus bulkheads for PoB. As this is largely a family history project, showing the crew accommodation is important, and PoB doesn't do that.
  19. iMustBeCrazy
    Well, after chasing my tail around and around and around (that curve at the wale shown in post 52 can't exist) I think I'm going to have to build the stern in PoB to see what's happening. I know the outer counter timber is a straight piece of wood with a kink in it, probably leaning over towards the centreline so that the 'elbow' sticks out a bit but in 2D it's not easy to visualise and harder to draw. No wonder they didn't do detailed drawings. Anyway, comments, suggestions please, I haven't done this before. This will be a fairly rough mock-up for my needs, but I still want the drawings to be useful to others. Starting with the keel, bulkheads/moulds when I have done them.
  20. iMustBeCrazy
    Thanks Tony. I think it was brunch. The same bird once caught and devoured a whole rabbit! Admittedly it was a small rabbit but still several times the size of a mouse. Afterwards it could only fly 50 metres between rests. I've been having a break on the drawings as my eyes are going rectangular what with computers, books and TV. Hope to get outside again soon if the weather moderates. Old man winter seems to have arrived early.
  21. iMustBeCrazy
    I'm still redrawing things, this will continue long past the learning curve. This will be a long job. The sooner others point out errors the less you have to redo. Everything is inter-related, moving one point may mean moving many others. Also when you're happy with something, lock it from editing. You can always unlock it later.
  22. iMustBeCrazy
    I would say "it depends". If you are trying to duplicate the original then duplicate the original line weights. If you are trying to create a pretty picture then use the line weight that you think looks best. If you are trying to produce a plan to use as templates then choose a narrower line that is still dark enough when printed. But don't get hung up on line weights at the moment, it's better to get them in the right place first, you can change them later. See my Lapwing thread, I'm using all colours and weights so I can more easily see and differentiate the lines. Drawing a thin black line over a thicker black line makes it hard to see what you've done. As I finalise them I'll reduce the number of colours and line weights to suit a nice print.
  23. iMustBeCrazy
    First, a small distraction. This morning turned out sunny despite the forecast so I snuck out down to the park for a little exercise and photography. When I got back I modified my balsa mock-up of the stern/counter. It's rough but I think it works.
  24. iMustBeCrazy
    Thanks Bob, I saw Fukui's post just after wrote the above. It's a possibility but I'll have to draw it to see how it looks.
  25. iMustBeCrazy
    Well, it took two days just to draw the counter timbers and I've just moved one two inches so it now has to be totally redrawn. So I've been trying to understand the yellow area in the drawing below. The 'trim piece' is shown on the sail plan of the Lapwing (Danish archive) and the Nightingale. It probably extends out to the dotted line and maybe more, framing the planking. The stern rail must blend into it somewhere somehow. But the question is, what is the structure, how is it supported? It doesn't seem to overlap the counter timber enough to be fixed to it. Can anyone point me to anything that might help? Or point out anything I may have misinterpreted from the drawing?

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