cog

Thanks OC. Need to get my bearings back on building to get that big German b....... out of it's mothballs. I think these small and quick builds might just do the trick.

Thanks Denis, I'm waiting for an engine same scale. Wonder how that will be.

Since I have little time, I left my SMS Seydlitz in her mothballs and picked up this little build.

The only thing I can say: "it is small!!!" and it is almost finished before you start it
 
Resin and PE ready for painting

 
Base coat "Black base" with chrome - both AK extreme metal colours - enamels

 
Base colour is RLM 66 some details filled in with colours, and metal PE which has been prepainted - Vallejo acrylics - added a bit of wear and tear

 
Getting the PE, resin, and plastic fitted took the better part of an eveing, painting took in all about 1.5 - 2 hours. Quite a fun model to build despite it's size, lot's of detail on the resin parts too
 
Cheers

Must be (getting) old and senile, besides I wouldn't know what marriage is like, so I keep on asking
 
What's the ratio thinner:primer you use? 1:1 , 2:1 , 3:2 ... I find the Primer quite thick, and have already slightly diluted it for brushing

Tamiya primer? I have not found anything adherent enough to stick to PE but rattle can primer. Either Tamiya or Vallejo. The bottled Vallejo primer is a no go on PE. Bold move

Forgot to ask previously: Red base coat when chipping to make it look like rust?
 
I presume these were in the after market set. The kit's booms were probably to weak to keep the net up ...

Fortunately I'm colour blind, so you can paint it any which way you want

Thanks OC. Need to get my bearings back on building to get that big German b....... out of it's mothballs. I think these small and quick builds might just do the trick.

Thanks Denis, I'm waiting for an engine same scale. Wonder how that will be.

Since I have little time, I left my SMS Seydlitz in her mothballs and picked up this little build.

The only thing I can say: "it is small!!!" and it is almost finished before you start it
 
Resin and PE ready for painting

 
Base coat "Black base" with chrome - both AK extreme metal colours - enamels

 
Base colour is RLM 66 some details filled in with colours, and metal PE which has been prepainted - Vallejo acrylics - added a bit of wear and tear

 
Getting the PE, resin, and plastic fitted took the better part of an eveing, painting took in all about 1.5 - 2 hours. Quite a fun model to build despite it's size, lot's of detail on the resin parts too
 
Cheers

As long as the boxes do not hit the table, there isn't anything to build
 
Nick, don't mention it. Currently testing Mr Paint both enamels and acrylics. I really like the enamels for airbrushing.

Since I have little time, I left my SMS Seydlitz in her mothballs and picked up this little build.

The only thing I can say: "it is small!!!" and it is almost finished before you start it
 
Resin and PE ready for painting

 
Base coat "Black base" with chrome - both AK extreme metal colours - enamels

 
Base colour is RLM 66 some details filled in with colours, and metal PE which has been prepainted - Vallejo acrylics - added a bit of wear and tear

 
Getting the PE, resin, and plastic fitted took the better part of an eveing, painting took in all about 1.5 - 2 hours. Quite a fun model to build despite it's size, lot's of detail on the resin parts too
 
Cheers

Fortunately I'm colour blind, so you can paint it any which way you want

Thanks OC. Need to get my bearings back on building to get that big German b....... out of it's mothballs. I think these small and quick builds might just do the trick.

Thanks Denis, I'm waiting for an engine same scale. Wonder how that will be.

Since I have little time, I left my SMS Seydlitz in her mothballs and picked up this little build.

The only thing I can say: "it is small!!!" and it is almost finished before you start it
 
Resin and PE ready for painting

 
Base coat "Black base" with chrome - both AK extreme metal colours - enamels

 
Base colour is RLM 66 some details filled in with colours, and metal PE which has been prepainted - Vallejo acrylics - added a bit of wear and tear

 
Getting the PE, resin, and plastic fitted took the better part of an eveing, painting took in all about 1.5 - 2 hours. Quite a fun model to build despite it's size, lot's of detail on the resin parts too
 
Cheers

Fortunately I'm colour blind, so you can paint it any which way you want

Thanks OC. Need to get my bearings back on building to get that big German b....... out of it's mothballs. I think these small and quick builds might just do the trick.

Thanks Denis, I'm waiting for an engine same scale. Wonder how that will be.

Fortunately I'm colour blind, so you can paint it any which way you want

Thanks OC. Need to get my bearings back on building to get that big German b....... out of it's mothballs. I think these small and quick builds might just do the trick.

Thanks Denis, I'm waiting for an engine same scale. Wonder how that will be.

Since I have little time, I left my SMS Seydlitz in her mothballs and picked up this little build.

The only thing I can say: "it is small!!!" and it is almost finished before you start it
 
Resin and PE ready for painting

 
Base coat "Black base" with chrome - both AK extreme metal colours - enamels

 
Base colour is RLM 66 some details filled in with colours, and metal PE which has been prepainted - Vallejo acrylics - added a bit of wear and tear

 
Getting the PE, resin, and plastic fitted took the better part of an eveing, painting took in all about 1.5 - 2 hours. Quite a fun model to build despite it's size, lot's of detail on the resin parts too
 
Cheers

Hello Pat. I did consider making a template (hole in a piece of brass sheet) and then scratching the lines into the hull. I worried however that I would make a mess of it. I din't consider pencil lines but I would be concerned that they would degrade over time with cleaning.
 
Yes Vossie - feel free to cancel the contract!
Vaddoc - thank you for looking and the positive comment.
 
I decided my preferred approach to the scuppers was to cut the doors out of .004" soft brass sheet and surface mount them. The scale protrusion above the hull is .150" and I think this will give me the barely visible look I am looking for. The doors were scaled form the plan and cut out using a craft knife - a few passes with the knife did the trick. The corners were then rounded with 600 grit wet and dry paper. The brass was easily distorted and I flattened it by applying force with the wrong end of a 10mm reamer while pressing the brass into a piece of MDF. I needed 10 doors - 5 per side.

I marked out the position for the doors using masking tape. The positions were scaled from the plans. Using masking take had the benefit of masking the hull from any inadvertent spread of glue.

The doors came out gently curved which helped as the concave side was put on concave face towards the hull. Applying clamping pressure  ensured that the edges were forced hard against the hull. They were glued in position using 5 minute set 2 part epoxy. I chose epoxy to give a little adjustment time.

The scuppers look very obvious in the next picture but I am expecting them to "fade" with the application of the matt white bulwark strip.


The next job is to make and mount the rubbing strip. This is profiled so i need to make a profile scraper.
 

Thank you Gary.
 
So to continue with the binnacle. The next step was to slot out the end of the pedestal to take the bracket.

I finished the bracket by soldering on the top web and I also glued the 6 panels in to the pedestal. I compared the result with an alternative version of the pedestal made by scoring on simulation panel. The scoring was done on the lathe. I liked the alternative but decided to go with the more accurate panelled version. 
 I then needed to make the the balls so hunted through my ball bearing jar for the correct size (.160"). I couldn't find any but then in a flash of inspiration I decided to check the diameter of the ball on the end of dressmakers pins that I have. It turns out to be .158" - pretty amazing really.
The pins required collars (.060" diameter by .050" tall) - turned on the lathe.


The shanks of the pins were cut off and the balls painted and glued in place.
The base of the pedestal was cut, drilled and 4 simulation mounting studs inserted. 
I have included the pin in the photos for scale.