cog

These are the kit's?

These are the kit's?

The one in the middle, with minimal detail. The aftermarket ones need barrels now.

These are the kit's?

I don't see you accomplishing that feat ...
 
strange these tubs could sail when looking at the centre of gravity I wonder why it didn't turn turtle!
 
Why those platforms? Doesn't the deck offerr enough support, and possibilities to fixate?

Well, the stuff you need will be in the last box you open, Jack.    Yeah.. old joke, I know.

I am doing some woodwork, building partitions, bed bunks and remodeling my kitchen: 


Lots of saw dust around here.....
 
Yves

HOF, I thought about it for half a second ... and then decided against it 😉
 
Yves

Small progress on something that will never be seen again: The batteries!!!

I did not install the last row as it would prevent all visibility into the compartment.

A tiny LED has also be mounted on the bulkhead to provide some light and attract the interest of the audience.

Once the deck is in place, that vision of a large number of cells all lined up will disappear.
 
The Trumpeter approach is to tilt the floor of that compartment and show three rows of batteries, leaning dangerously to starboard. I guess, they made the decision to show in a simplistic way what each compartment was used for. It is commendable but I am looking for something slightly more realistic with my model.
 
Yves

I have finished working on the fuel tank, located on each side of the Officers/Kitchen compartment. The goal is to create a tank which is as close as possible to the prototype and that will reach under the Control room, as indicated in the blue-prints. It is a tedious work with a lot of adjustments. The bulkhead is completely opened and a round enclosure is fabricated: 



The module is dry-fitted into the hull: 

I have created a cut in the side water tank, to allow a better view in the kitchen, pantry and toilet room. Batteries will be sitting underneath.

On the picture (above), you can see the round enclosure that will extend under the control room, to form the largest past of the fuel tank.
 
Now, to paint everything and start installing all the batteries....

 
Yves

I'm starting to work out the best way to make these oarsmen with least unnecessary actions - reducing the sawcuts to the absolute minimum needed, but even more to reduce the carving I need to do to a minimum. Here's the results of my first attempt.
 
Having drawn a side view of the oarsman I made multiple photocopies and glued them to billets of pear wood, two to each piece, each with the head at the outside (top) edge -  if I mess the head up, I might as well throw that figure away - it's impossible to fix it up - so I do that first. The reason for two to a piece is that it gives me a "handle" to hold while I work on the other figure. I found this out from grim experience.
 
I sawed straight cuts approximating the outline of the side view.
 
Then I turned the figure at right angles and marked the outline of the front/back view, and sawed straight cuts around that outline. 
 
Side:
  
front:
 
other side:

Back:

Next, carving the head with a No. 11 scalpel. Megatron:
 
A bit of shaping:
 
And yet more - perhaps a young Robert Redford?

well, maybe not. I don't think Robert Redford has a nose quite like that:

 
More later. But the system I've worked out seems to work pretty well with a good balance between sawcuts and carving.
 
Steven

I don't see you accomplishing that feat ...
 
strange these tubs could sail when looking at the centre of gravity I wonder why it didn't turn turtle!
 
Why those platforms? Doesn't the deck offerr enough support, and possibilities to fixate?

I don't see you accomplishing that feat ...
 
strange these tubs could sail when looking at the centre of gravity I wonder why it didn't turn turtle!
 
Why those platforms? Doesn't the deck offerr enough support, and possibilities to fixate?

You want to say there are times you aren't!!!
 
Nice new accessories, you will have a ball with those

There are 20 75mm guns that have to go below the main deck. The kit ones are not the good so will be replaced, but need platforms to sit on that will never be seen again once the deck is glued on 

You want to say there are times you aren't!!!
 
Nice new accessories, you will have a ball with those

Anyway  life must go on  - models we all need to build  - 
 
I continued the restore job on the cockpit  - just paintwork  even created a few more  painted frames  - just about finished I think  - next job to mask up and spray the  fuselage  around where the cockpit sits.
 
OC.

I have tried to rescue the canopy,  I glued the edge on the inside where the crack started  and then  worked on the  loose section that had fell out, this was glued back in  then I did some tidy up, where the crack is visible I will paint a part  framework and do the same on the opposing side so they match.
 
Pics show dry fitted  still needs  painting and fitting.
OC.

You want to say there are times you aren't!!!
 
Nice new accessories, you will have a ball with those

Nice metal work Pat, I wish I had the skill sets to do likewise.  

You must feed those 'galley slaves' / Workers well - nice production run (and fast)
 
At this rate you will be finished the ship before you know it; the crew may be another matter?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Greetings all,
 
Really is time I got back to finish Snake, time just flies, and incredible that my last update was July 2015!  .  Firstly, she's been staring at me from across the room and I can't avert my eyes any longer from embarrassment with her so neglected.  Secondly, I feel I really need to finish her to be able to hold my head up on this forum by having actually completed something, and thirdly, there are some things I need to contemplate on 'Jason' and skills to hone before I move forward.
 
I'll be honest, it was a little bit of a challenge getting going again, there are many things about her that I'm not too happy with, but recognize that this is still a first build using kit supplied parts so just need to be happy with it.  One trick I've found to reduce 'fuzzies' is simply to use a brush to stroke warm water onto the line.  I've tried bees wax, but from my experience it just seemed to result in dandruff!
 
So what exactly has been done:
Rigging on the foremast has completed for now to include the sheets and clew-line Main mast yards are installed and similarly completed (some lines that belay outside of the line of the main shroud are being left for now to give more room to access the mizzen mast area) Much rework has been done in the completion of the above tasks, which certainly slowed progress, including: Re-rigging many of the horses in situ, trying to give them a little more 'slack' Definitely a case of 2 steps forward and 1 step back picking this back up.  The dexterity needed to navigate around the increasingly catch prone pointy bits eluded me, and for every yard rigged it seemed I had to re-strop a block that slipped loose as a result of unwanted contact with a spar or line.  Thankfully nothing wooden has broken.  Putting a positive spin on this, it definitely required honing of skills - the most aggravating and challenging fix was probably the violin block for the fore mainyard lift (photo below).  This was re-stropped in situ and required keeping the existing lines suitably taught and navigating around the existing rigging- despite some rather salty language, this was honestly a bit of a boost after recognizing that if that was possible, pretty much anything can be fixed.  (Seizing black thread around black line against the black woodwork proved too much for the eye...)    
Finally where things stand.  I'm standing by the decision to rig starting with forward masts and moving aft, going from lower to upper.  Suspect next up will be the spanker and gaff before installing the cross-jack.  
 

I deleted it for him, Jack.  

Thanks.  But you might want to delete the pdf file you seem to have accidentally uploaded. 

You want to say there are times you aren't!!!
 
Nice new accessories, you will have a ball with those