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Tony Hunt
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Everything posted by Tony Hunt
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Jmiba, can you suggest a good tutorial to use to get started 3D modelling ships in Blender? There are way too many on Youtube to choose from!
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Thanks Terry, Jmiba and CCClarke for your replies. Interesting insights! I'll give it a crack and see how far I get.
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Hmmm. Methinks I haven't explained myself very clearly! I'll try again. The idea was to create a sketched 3D rendering of the hull, using the photos to get the shape approximately right, then use the clever ability of the 3D software to view the resulting 3D shape from the same viewpoint as the photographer who took the picture and overlay the rendering onto the picture. Kind of like the beautiful 3D rendering of the the pearling lugger PENGUIN (see below, done by a real Naval Architect, not me!) but much simpler. Any discrepancies between the rendering and the photo could then be noted and adjusted, until the two aligned perfectly. Yes? No? It won't work for the underwater shape, of course, but should be possible for everything above the waterline.
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She's fairly typical for that period and that location. A lot of the early luggers were remarkably small. A surprising number were built overseas, in both Singapore and Hong Kong, and also in New Zealand. I guess Hong Kong isn't much further from Darwin than Sydney is! I think you could certainly use some of the plans already in existence as a starting point, then use the photos to refine them. There was a wider range of shapes and styles of pearling luggers than most people appreciate, and the point would be to create a series of small waterline models that illustrated that range of diversity. Yet another project for the future! 🙄
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Welcome! There is a very active group of Donal McKay enthusiasts posting on MSW. The most recent thread is about STAGHOUND, but the masterpiece is the research they have done on GLORY OF THE SEAS. You have a lot of enjoyable reading ahead of you!
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I'm wondering if it's possible to generate a 3D rendering from a good photo that would enable an accurate waterline model to be built from the resulting plans. Let me explain... 😀, using the two images below as a live example. They show two consecutive views of a small pearling lugger that operated from Darwin in the Northern Territory of Australia, named PETREL. An interesting little boat, it was built in 1898 in Hong Kong, by the Whampoa Dock Company Ltd, and was then shipped (unrigged) to Darwin as deck cargo on a steamship. PETREL was registered, so we also have two accurate dimensions to apply to the photo as scale, namely "Length from forepart of stem beneath bowsprit to aft side of head of sternpost = 39 feet"; and "Main breadth to outside of plank = 11 feet". Using these, would it be possibly to draw an approximate plan for a waterline model, then make a 3D rendering that could be overlaid onto the photo so that it is being viewed from exactly the same angle. then adjust the initial plan so that it perfectly matches the photo? This would then allow all the other visible details to be added in, at which point you would have a reasonably accurate plan for a waterline model. I've tinkered with 2D CAD (without much success!) but I'm amazed at what people can create with the 3D software now available. It seems to open up all sorts of possibilities.
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You're not the only one loving this Steven. Your research is fascinating, as always, and the info on the early ships guns is so interesting!
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Valeriy, perhaps this can be our next project together after I finish the pearling luggers book!
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Stunning. Although I think it needs a bit of grease on it. 😀
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That is a work of art Valeriy. Really extraordinary detail. Thanks for sharing it with us!
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Lovely work on that propeller. Now all it needs is a bit of tuning to ensure there isn't too much vibration when it's turning at normal revs....
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I second that motion!
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Congratulations on your focus and tenacity across such a long build. The finished model looks superb. All the more impressive that it's been achieved at 1/160 scale.
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I didn't seal the ends, it was already dry when I got it and it's been kept dry ever since. If it's a fungal stain I think it will be long dead by now, it doesn't seem to have softened the wood. I'll certainly try to quarter saw as much as possible, it doesn't look like it will be a problem to do so. I ended up gluing the block to an offcut of fibreboard, using Weldbond, which is pretty strong. This made it easy to run the block through the saw. For the longer pieces, still to come, I'll use the same technique but I think I'll make a slightly heavier sled using thin ply as the base, and glue a hefty block of pine as a butt stop at the rear of the workpiece to give it more support going into the blade.
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I agree with Wefalck, it's a superb museum that hasn't lost its way. The models on display are numerous and magnificent. An excellent place to spend a few hours. Or days.
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Well, I took the plunge and cut a shortish piece off one end, then had a crack at milling it into model-sized lumber. It went surprisingly well, I'm happy (and relieved!) to say. The thin piece was cut to ~3mm thick on the table saw, then brought down to 2.5mm using my little thickness sander. The boxwood seems to have a nice hard, tight grain, mostly the expected yellow colour but with a grey streak through it, quite pretty! It has that unusual honey-like smell that boxwood seems to have when freshly cut. So far, so good!
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I just found this build log. It's looking great so far! I'm just down the road, in North Rocks. I like the Triumph in your avatar too - we'll have to go for a ride together sometime!
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Thanks Eric, I appreciate the feedback. There's always more to learn. I certainly need to get a flat edge somewhere to start from, and you're quite right, loss to kerf isn't really that much of an issue in the grand scheme of things. If I get some time today I'll make a few preliminary cuts and see how it goes.
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I do have a chainsaw but the kerf is quite large, so I'd lose a lot of valuable wood, and the log isn't all that large in cross-section, a bit over 4" x 2" along most of its length. I only have a Proxxon hobby bandsaw; while it does have enough depth of cut I think it would struggle with something as dense as boxwood. I don't want to kill the motor!
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Thanks for your concern Cathead and mnl. I have a very healthy respect for the power of my tablesaw, that's for sure. I do plan to use a sled to rip it (and crosscut it!), at least to put a planar surface onto it. I've also considered using my belt sander with a really coarse (40 grit) belt on it to do this, I might give both a try. Good feedback, anyway, the voice of caution is always worth repeating!
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Many years ago I acquired this nice big log of boxwood at a woodworking show (it was being sold as a woodturning piece) and it's been sitting in my wood collection ever since, so it's well and truly dry and seasoned. As you can see, it's a bit over a metre long (that's a bit over a yard to my American friends!) and has a few minor curves along its length, plus the stub of a decent-sized side branch at one end. I think it's time to mill it into model-making pieces, but I'm only going to get one go at this so I thought I'd take advantage of the collective wisdom before I put blade to bark! I'll be using a 10" table saw fitted with a thin kerf planer blade, so hopefully I won't waste too much as sawdust. My initial thought was to convert it into shorter and straighter lengths, crosscutting it at the red lines for example. Then ripping it into thin boards. I'd quite like to snip off a short piece first and "take a look inside", perhaps starting with one of the shorter pieces at the top and bottom, which might contain some interesting curved grain for use in parts such as the bilge sections of frames, or curved stems. Should I try to quarter-saw it? Will it make much difference with something as close-grained as boxwood? So many questions, and quite a bit of apprehensiveness! What do you think? Thoughts and suggestions all welcome! Cheers Tony
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Those ventilators are really wonderful. In fact, the whole model is really wonderful!
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What a magnificent model! Guaranteed to strike fear into the heart of any French captain! 😀 Great photography too, as Glenn notes.
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I really admire the way you have reconstructed this vessel in the absence of actual plans. Great work. And your construction methods are novel and fascinating.
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