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Everything posted by LyleK1
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Interesting that the book I read did not mention floor boards. There must have been an updated version of the book several years after the original was written. I know the work to save the boat took several years.
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- Sea of Galilee boat
- SE Miller
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Getting down to the nitty-gritty! Stern cap installed: Mast work is pretty simple on this build. The mast was preformed and required nothing except sanding and a couple of holes drilled near the top to handle the rigging later on. I added a halyard cleat to the aft side of the mast. I made it out of walnut because every time I tried making it with the stock wood, it would split! After the fourth one... I switched wood! I also added the mast step and used a piece of brass rod to ensure a solid joint: And then glued it into place. On my build, I measured forward 7.5 inches from the stern and cut away some of the partial ribs to make room for the mast step and mast. Double-checked the alignment on both axis: Any minor adjustments can be done with the rigging. But actually it's pretty well aligned. Mast done! Looking at another build log awhile back, I saw some deck boards that I think would have been appropriate for the time period and the boat. I decided to use a similar pattern but maybe a bit more primitive than his work. If I can find it again, I'll give credit. Used some Basswood just for a bit of change for the deck: Time for a coating of the finish. I followed the advise of the kit designer and used Amber Shellac. I've never worked with it but found it to be really easy to use: I like the look and after some rubbing with steel wool, I like it even more! Now that the main structure is done, it's time to get busy on the bits and pieces: Pictured above are the oars, rudders, seats, oar locks and davit pieces. I started by sanding all the pieces and then went on to assembly the 4 oar locks: Some shaping with a round file and these will be ready for a little touch-up sanding and shellac and then be ready to install. Work continues tomorrow and through the weekend!
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- SE Miller
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Hi Chuck, Appreciate the references and am looking forward to watching your build log. I corresponded with Scott via email a few times and although he didn't come right out and acknowledge it, I believe the wood to be Spanish Cedar. Overall, I've found it fairly easy to work. But I am super curious to see the AYC. I have never worked with it and am hoping to get some insight for my next build (after the Bounty... still in the wings and waiting!) Good luck and have fun! It's a really fun build!
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Thanks Moab! Appreciate you stopping in.
- 83 replies
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- SE Miller
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Thanks Steven. Appreciate you checking in!
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Thanks Chuck! I’m pleased with look of the model. I’m sure yours will be beautiful! I just finished the cap rail… done for the night:
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- SE Miller
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Fore deck work was next on the agenda... built similar to the aft deck: And then trimmed up just like the aft deck: Decks are done! I really didn't like the look of the cutwater... a little reshaping and it looks much better: The false keel piece had to be soaked and bent several times until I got the shape right without breaking it! Once glued into place. I beveled it at the bow to match up with the planks: And the false keel is glued and sanded: Cap rails present another challenge. One of the two that came in the kit was split and unusable and the other was way over bent. So, I soaked a spare plank and the remaining cap rail. The rail that started out as a straight plank was soaked for about an hour in hot water, wrapped in paper towels and micowaved for about 30 seconds. It was fairly easy to bend from there: The other rail had to be straighten... again I soaked for about an hour and then slowly straightened out to the proper shape. I tack glued the stern part in place and now am letting it dry before gluing it down: Once in place, a little sanding and trimming and the cap rails will be done! I think I'll be using Amber Shellac for the finish... some light sanding on the hull and possibly some steel wool to finish off the sanding and then I'll finish it, inside and out. I do plan to add some floor decking and the mast step... need to determine if I should do those item first or finish it first... Comments?? And then on to some decking and the mast!
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- SE Miller
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Yeah… I wasn’t liking the look of it either and I have altered it: Looks better now! More progress today… I’ll post another log later or tomorrow.
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- SE Miller
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Lots accomplished over the last few days... I finished the ribs. I found it to be very difficult to bend some of the ribs in the sharper corners near the bow and stern. Since they will be covered by the decks, I gave them less worry below the deck line. Overall, a tedious task working with 1/8 x1/8 wood: The inner wales were next. I let the pieces soak in hot water for about an hour before bending them by hand... no heat. The bend was not sharp and actually shaped easily. I used clamps and made sure the wales were in the right position along the entire length of the hull. Once the inner wales were in place and still wet, I clamped them down ensuring that they touched each rib at the top and bottom. Once dried, I used the the thin CA glue and glued them in place while still clamped, resulting: The cutwater was a bit of a conundrum for me. There are no real instructions that were helpful on this part of the build. Fortunately, I found a couple of pictures and build logs that gave me a good view and idea of what I needed to make. It started with several 1/4 x 1/4 wood pieces glued together: I laid the bow down and used my pencil to trace the curvature of the bow. The pieces were glued together to match the curve. I used my scroll saw and cut the shape out and then cut the leading edge. Finally, I sanded and glued it onto the bow: Still need to sand the cutwater at the keel flat to properly receive the false keel but I am really pleased with the outcome! Next, deck beams were installed at the bow and stern: And the decking begins... simple but a little work to cut around the ribs: Finally: Some sanding on the end to even up the deck ends... I decided that I wanted a more finished look. So, I cut pieces to put between the ribs and then placed a piece of trim around the hull. Also added an end cap to the deck: A better look to me... what do they call it........ artistic freedoms! Hopefully, not too far off base! The fore deck, cap rails and the false keel are next!
- 83 replies
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- SE Miller
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Half the ribs done: A month and five days until dad's birthday! Gotta get busy! Summer makes it harder to work... boating, gardening, etc! Still think I can make it without having to rush.
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I use Bob Smith Industries... works well and we'll see about the longevity. Frankly, I'm not a huge fan of CA but can see the reasoning for using it on this build.
- 83 replies
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- SE Miller
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"I have seen models where floor timber/futtock arrangement goes the full length of the boat and some where that arrangement is used only for about the center 1/3 while floor timber-only is used for forward and aft 1/3s. Who knows for sure." Exactly! The pattern is debatable but I think the pattern chosen is appropriate for the time period and type of build. As shown in Chuck's post, the pattern is not even the same throughout which I find unlikely but more of a product of the age and condition of the boat when it was excavated.
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I presume you are referring to the ribs? The pattern shown is followed throughout the hull. Based on the original, that appears to be the correct pattern. I am considering adding floor boards with some small spacing which will cover the bottom of the hull... haven't decided yet.
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Hmmmm... even CA glue? I'll give it a try!
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Just a quick update... I was gone for the long weekend. Managed to get about a quarter of the ribs in place: Spacing is accomplished using a couple pieces of the planking material... worked great except when I glued it in place with the rib! Fortunately, I was able to get it back out with no damage! I'll post again soon.
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Sanding mostly done... Interior is done and coated with CA to reinforce the seams. Sanded smooth and ready for ribs! I struggled with doing the CA coating but it made a nice hard shell. This model is amazingly light and feels fragile but this step certainly made it feel stronger. Sanding on the exterior is basically done... I'll do some touch up in places but overall, it is done: I starting making ribs... no BBQ sauce! I haven't used the old soldering iron plank bender in a while. Its radius is almost perfect for the bends needed. I soaked the planks for about 15 minutes and after a couple of missteps, I was able make the rest fairly easily. I've got about 25% of the required amount cut and bent. More in a few days. Hoping to get out on the boat for a few days... An update when I return after the holiday.
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so·lid·i·ty /səˈlidədē/ Learn to pronounce noun the quality or state of being firm or strong in structure. Well done, Chuck! Not a new word but used in proper context! I honestly didn't know but had to check! The steps to remove thwarts are many! But eventually, they will come out. The bow and stern get a small "deck", plus the are inner wales that will retain the shape.
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The “ribs” are the next step after some sanding. They run vertically along the entire length of the boat. Meticulous work but should look great. Interesting info, thanks!
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- SE Miller
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Although I haven't posted in a few days, work has continued! I finished the hull this afternoon! The below sequence shows the progress through to the 15th plank: As I mentioned in the previous post, the last 5-6 planks were by far, the most difficult and I, literally, had to do one at a time before moving on. The required bend/twists needed to shape the hull made it very difficult, more than I had imagined! I ended up breaking 6-8 planks to achieve a finished hull. That's even after soaking and heating and bending incrementally to get the right shape at the stern: Symmetrically, the hull shape looks great! I had to use a various amount of clamps, some not designed for model work but were necessary to push the planks into place. Tools were substituted for wedges as needed too: And finally, the 15th planks on each side had to be shaped carefully to fill the remaining gaps: I did some initial sanding while the boat was still on the strongback... I got to thinking, what if I sand it a little thin in places and it's accidently glued to the strongback!! I'm glad I stopped: I ended up having to cut several of the forms as I had indeed glued the planks to the forms in several spots! It wasn't difficult to remove, I just cut a few of the forms, a little wiggle and they popped right out. Once I was able to get my fingers inside, I used them to push the forms slightly and they popped loose too: If you look closely, you can see the remnants of a couple of the forms. Also, there is some denting on the interior of the planks from me being a little too rough getting the planks to shape properly. I used water on my fingertips and rubbed it into the dents and most of them came out easily. The worst ones at the stern will be covered and not visible. So here is the hull before extensive sanding! The bracing is just temporary to keep the boats shape. On to sanding!
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They used a technique called mortise and tenon to join the planks. This is the same boat. It had 12 different varieties of wood in the boats construction. It was speculated that some was by necessity due to a short supply of wood but also repairs performed during its lifetime were done with whatever was available. It would’ve been impractical to attempt to use short pieces for the build since it is built using a strongback. The book mentioned in my first post was written by the man the managed and performed the excavation. Studies of the boat continue to this day.
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- SE Miller
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I started at 10-15 minutes... and on the last plank it was closer to an hour. Additionally, I bent it a portion of the way using heat and then re-soaked it for another 20-30 minutes before making the final adjustments. As you can see, it is clamped in place with just the cut and sanding left. It should drop right into place now!
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- SE Miller
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Working on rounding the hull from side to the bottom: The bend required between the two clamps is a difficult one. I broke three planks before I finally got it! Some shaping and sanding to do before gluing it down: I hope to have the hull done by next weekend... maybe a bit optimistic! These planks are quite difficult to shape. It takes multiple steps and some soaking!
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I've never used Tung Oil! I prefer Linseed Oil... I would assume that an oil would best be used on areas that don't have any further work. I'm not sure how well glue would adhere to any of the oils. Typically, I varnish (or use polyurethane) the decks and fixtures. I try to wait until I'm done with gluing everything in place but that's not always possible. Glue will adhere to most varnishes but not as well as unfinished wood!
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