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LyleK1

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Everything posted by LyleK1

  1. Hey Tim, A question for you... l’m in the process of fairing the hull, in particular the stern. At the stern post I expected the plank ends to butt right into it. However there is so much material from the stern keel stiffeners that you almost need to sand or file them completely out! How did you handle this particular area? Appreciate any advise!
  2. Stunning work, Tim! I look forward to seeing the finished product. Your log continues to be source of information to me. Thanks for keeping it going to the end.
  3. So, here is the final test panel: From bottom to top, Steel wool and vinegar soaking for 24 hours; steel wool and vinegar soaking for 48 hours; steel wool, vinegar (48 hrs) and a small amount of Hydrogen Peroxide; steel wool, vinegar and tea. This picture was taken before sanding. After sanding: To me, not much difference between the 24 hour and 48 hour solution. The tea and HP solutions are not what I'm looking for on a deck exposed to the elements. Pictures and experience show decks to be gray. The next test will be on the opposite side with my treenail tests to see how they react to the 24 hour solution: While doing all this experimenting I've been doing some fairing and ladder assembly. I also decided to start looking at installing the stern stanchions and plate... except I found a glaring problem: When I installed the platform the lantern is sitting, I assumed (incorrectly) that it was supposed to be curved like the deck. I didn't realize how badly it looked until I tried installing the stern plate! So, I was able to get it loose and shave the center support down. It's regluing now! Pictures of it completed (I hope) in the next post.
  4. Quick update... Testing different solutions for the main deck. The first solution is about 1/4 cup of white vinegar with a small ball of #000 steel wool left to soak for 24 hours. Then it was brushed on the wood and left to dry: This next shot is of the same solution but with tea water put on the wood and allowed to dry first: This solution is on the top of the picture while the first test is on the bottom: I'm still waiting for the Hydrogen Peroxide for the final tests. Then I will sand the test and conclude which one I'll use for the next tests on the other side that have the different treenails. More soon!
  5. I'm not familiar with a 3d printer but the smaller pieces should be doable with it. I wouldn't want to infringe on any copyrights... let me know if I can help.
  6. Not much accomplished this week with only a few hours working on her... Waiting for some product to continue my weather/aging experiments before doing main deck. I have taken a few sample strips and glued them down using the same process as the deck. I did this on both sides to give me two areas to experiment on: I lightly sanded it and then drilled some holes that will be used for treenails. I'm experimenting with a few different methods. Toothpicks, two different types of wood putty and using a punch and pencil: As you can see in the pictures above, I've marked what I used for reference. I sanded the test strips semi-smooth and now must wait for my supplies: I have everything except some Hydrogen Peroxide which seems to be harder to get these days but it should be here next week. Can't go any further on the deck until I see how these will be effected by the aging process. In the meantime, I'll build a couple ladders and do some more fairing on the frames. Next update soon!
  7. Although the entire unit might be a bit difficult to build without proper equipment, the base would be easy enough. Have you thought about building one yourself? I'm sure those of us that have one could supply pictures and measurements.
  8. I'd post pictures but am at work... check out my build log! HMS Bounty by Lyle K1
  9. Looks good! I assume you are using the sails that came in the kit? Did you do anything to them prior to mounting? I’ll take a look at Landblubber Mike’s post too.
  10. So, before I finish the main deck, I'm going to do the fairing of the frames for hull planking. I think there will be less chance of damaging the deck now. Additionally, I'll be installing the keel, keel stem and stern post. These will be notched for the rabbet line and, eventually, I'll begin planking from the keel to the main deck. I'm using this method due to the historical accuracy and the techniques I learned doing NRG's Half Hull Project: As the above picture shows, I'll be using similar methods but with the kits supplied wood. I have purchased some additional walnut for the garboard and for fashioning any drop or stealer planks. The length of the planks will be kept to 20-25 feet (approximately 5" by scale). But first comes the fairing... And I will admit, of all the work done any model, this is the part I like the least! However, it is extremely important to get it right. The shape of the hull and the ability to glue the planks successfully depends on the quality of the fairing. I noticed that in all the build logs, for the Bounty, on this site, there is very little referenced to this step and even fewer pictures. Hopefully, I can remedy some of that. Fairing is critical throughout the hull but especially at the bow and stern. The goal is to get as much gluing surface as possible on each frame while maintaining the proper hull shape: This particular model is a bit more challenging because of the open starboard side. I don't plan to fair any of the frames that are not planked... a pain to figure that out! Of course, I've made the challenge even more difficult with the wiring and the need to protect it! I use a string and run it along the frames looking for high spots and low spots and as much surface for glue as possible. I'll show that process in my next update. I still have a ways to go... I'll update again when this portion is done...
  11. Another week has gone by and I have finished the main deck planking! Since I failed to mention it in my previous update, I thought I would briefly go over the procedure I used for each plank. I measured and cut each plank individually and used a No. 2 pencil to darken the 4 edges. I doubled checked the fit and then used Elmer's wood glue to adhere them to the false deck. The glue was applied and then smoothed out with my finger to ensure that the entire surface was coated with a thin coat... too much glue and you get glue stains, too little glue and you don't get good adhesion. The results: The numerous cut-outs were accomplished using an Exacto knife and Exacto sawblade, finished with a flat and round file. All the through deck items were checked, again, to ensure good fits. Sanding is next and then the very tedious installation of the treenails... I'm still trying to decide which method I will use. On the lower two decks, I used a punch and a pencil to mark them. I'm leaning on doing the same on the main deck too. However, the aging portion will be different since this deck is exposed to weather and sunshine... I found an individual on one of the FB groups I follow that had a very realist looking deck. I'm going to experiment with his method for aging. This will also help me decide on the treenail option too. I'm going off the sequence of the plans for the next few steps because I plan to do the planking of the hull completely different...
  12. Just checked it out... Definitely not attractive! Lots of good info... If only it was for the previous version! Thanks Jaager.
  13. Agreed... I was looking at the Winchelsea group project as a potential candidate to increase my experience and have the ability to work with a lot of good build logs well under way or done. I should mention that I am working on the A.L HMS Bounty. I have a long ways to go! And I'm in no hurry... Just thinking about my next project! As noted above, I'm working on a model with the interior open and am having a good bit of fun filling out the interior. Not looking to do it again for awhile. Your comments on the Discovery and the Chatham are well noted and reflect what I've found in just the little time I've spent on it. Something to file away for the future! Thanks for the response, appreciate the comments.
  14. I'm interested in the Discovery and Chatham as well. Any updates for those to ships?
  15. Interesting posts. I too, am very interested in building the 1789 version of the Discovery and the HMS Chatham. Both of were involved in the exploration of the PNW waters. I am in the middle of building the HMS Bounty right now but am starting to look into the next build... a scratch build is in my future. My first attempt. So, obviously, research and access to good materials may be an issue when picking the next build.
  16. Nice work, Tim. The rigging is always so tedious... but if done correctly (like you are doing) it will make the model standout! Keep the pictures coming!
  17. Another week has passed... rather an eventful one at my house. A bad windstorm knocked over a large section of fence in my yard and I spent part of the week working on a full size fence line! Oh well... I did some fairing of the bow and the frames between the bow and stern... mostly just some shaping. Much more to come. Also, sanded down the frames on the port side (still a little more to do) that were protruding out more than they should... upon closer inspection, I found one frame that got out of whack somehow... way too late to fix it now but unless you know where it is (like me!) it's not noticeable. The planking on the main deck is underway! Before starting to lay the planks, I removed the frames that obstructed the cut-outs in the false deck: I used several methods before going out purchasing an Exacto saw blade set... better but not ideal. I'm especially displeased with beams that appear to be hanging out there with no support. Not sure if I can do much about but will see if posts are appropriate for the build. I don't recall seeing any in the plans... Moving on for now... I started by laying out a grid to ensure that my planks ended over a beam and that I stayed straight: Each grid is the distance between beams by 20mm... each plank is 5mm, so 4 planks per grid. My mistake, which you'll see later, was not laying out the 3-butt pattern I intended to use. Next time I'll lay out the entire pattern... Next I clamped down a straight edge to ensure perfect alignment on the first plank from bow to stern: And laid the first planks: The first plank... after cleaning up the false deck cut-outs: Continuing on: Now, you may have notice that there are a few plank butts but because of the multiple cut-out for everything from masts to company ways, there is no pattern... BECAUSE I DIDN'T DO ONE!! I really don't know where my head was but its a minor error and one that makes the model look more realistic than museum made... at least that's what I'm telling myself!! Better late than never: Sometimes, get a little ahead of myself or forget to take that extra step! For the common observer, it would not be noticed... 12 hours into planking the main deck: I expect the outboard planks will take less time, no cut-outs to deal with until I reach the edges. I'll forage onward! Next update soon.
  18. Just a quick update... The Main deck glued down fine. I'm a little unhappy with the alignment of some of the frames. I was extremely meticulous when installing them on the false keel, yet: The starboard side is easy cause I planned to veneer the frames at some point to hide the "plywood" look. I think that will work even with some minimal fairing on this side. The port side will require quite a bit of sanding... disappointing but a fact of life! The bow will also need a lot of fairing work but was expected since everything is squared off: ...and a minor problem at the stern. An easy fix: Picture is flipped and I can't get it to rotate 180 degrees! Sorry! I'm sure you can see the issue in the raise deck at the frame. Might be able to press it down with a clamp... maybe a little persuasion from Exacto! Sanding is on the docket and then the planking of the deck. Lots to think about over the next few days!
  19. Thanks for the kind words, Tim. Your build log has been an inspiration and a big help at times. You work is beautiful. Thanks for dropping in!
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