LyleK1

Welcome aboard and thanks Matt! Next update coming...

I'll start by saying, I wasn't planning on doing a build log... There are a 15 logs for the same model on MSW already. However, at last check, only one was to completion. The other logs offer a lot of help and information but only as far as they go! So, even though I started the model 3 months ago, I did take pictures along the way and any details I may have left out can easily be found on the other logs. I pledge to keep this log running to the models completion, however long that takes. This is my 4th model and I continue to learn new techniques and ideas. I think that will never stop. There are so many masters on this forum! I hope, someday, to be as capable as them. I am attempting to keep this model as historically accurate as I can based on the plans and the book "The anatomy of a ship : The armed transport Bounty". Additionally, I will be aging or weathering the ship as I build it to give it that "realistic" look. This is the first time I've tried this method and as you'll see it has been challenging but also a lot of fun! Before I start, I'd like to thank several builders that have inspired and unknowingly helped me to this point. Many are still on my favorites list and all have build logs that you may want to reference too: Captain Al Cobr Grendel Rcmdvr Thomaslambo Tim Moore Trig There are probably a couple more that I missed... Okay, lets get started! I didn't bother taking pictures of the box, unpacking and indexing the parts. I'm sure there are plenty of those out there! I found the contents to be of very good quality and I was not missing any parts or components. The scale drawings and picture book are very detailed. The instruction book is probably a bit sparse if you are new to modeling. The picture book helps fill in some of the gaps but frankly, without some of the build logs, it would be very difficult in places. The first few steps are pretty straight forward: 1. Cut out the keel and frames 2. Sand the little tags off and remove the charred layer for better glue adhesion. 3. I chose to stain the frames and keel with a walnut stain, taking care to keep stain away from the areas to be glues. It took two coats to get to the color I wanted. The picture below was taken with just one coat. I purchased (prior to starting this model) a model ship building slip: It has been a great tool for holding the model and I expect to use it throughout the build. Look at the above log for more details... worth every penny! It is extremely important that the keel is kept straight and that each frame is installed plumb and level to the keel. This CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH!! If any of these are off, you'll struggle with it throughout the build. A word of caution... Make sure the table or bench is level too... If it isn't, make note of the difference and ensure that the identical difference is transferred to your model as you build it. As you can see in the pictures above the building slip has an attachment to help keep the frames at 90 degrees to the keel and the frames were leveled using a small level resting on the top of the frames before gluing and taping into place. Each frame was allowed to dry several hours before the next frames was added. More to come later today or tomorrow.

Welcome back! Looking forward to seeing some updates.

I finally got it mounted! Couple of screws in the plate and it's ready for display!

Tim, Very impressive work! Can't wait to see the finished product. As I stated in my post in March, I had this queued up... I started it on 9-13-20 and am well underway. I am doing things a bit different in that I am looking for the "weathered or used" look and with the opportunity for some kit bashing, I am making the interior a little more filled out. I've attached a couple of pictures... The lower decks "weathered" and installed, and a prototype to the lanterns I am building to light up the interior some. They still need a little refinement. Especially, the handle. It's a bit out of scale but I'm close! Thanks for keeping me inspired and help when I get stuck!

The building slip is from HobbyZone... I don't know how I did without it before this build! Great piece of equipment.

Thanks Tim! I just didn't look far enough ahead! BTW< I love your build log! Been a good source of info! I've attached a picture of mine... Long ways to go!

So, I'm working on the Bounty and I've run across a numbered piece that doesn't match anything! The picture below shows you the laser cut parts on one of the sheets. In the upper right corner is number 77. In the parts list and the instructions, #77 is a part of a box for one of the decks. If you look at the part, it clearly is not a flat piece for a box! Has anyone figured out what it is and where it goes? It looks a lot like a frame piece but all of those are set... nothing missing! HELP!!!

Wow! You've made some great progress! Love the lighting... something I had planned to do too. I'll be examining your work closely as I like they way it turned out. I finally got started on my kit... staining frames and the keel... funny thing, I numbered my frames but the stain washed the numbers off! Not a big deal but I had a good laugh! Looking forward to your next updates.

Yep... I actually used a permanent marker for mine and it worked... sorta ok. But I got some of the bleeding too and had to be extra careful when I started sanding. Turned out ok. You can see where I got into the ink.

https://artesanialatina.net/en/modelcrafts-elite/486-wooden-model-ship-kit-hms-bounty.html Everything you'll need!

I just started this kit too but am headed out on vacation until late August... will be watching your build as I plan to do a lot of kit bashing too. Looking good! I bought the Hobby Zone building slip and as you can see below, I think it will work quite well... some dry fitting in the works. See you in September!

Just started on the Bounty with my slip... Trying to find the best way to set up for the laying of the bulkheads (shown dry fitting). I haven't gotten the level and square out... but I will just to confirm that it is true, level and square. Sure looks like it. You'll notice the strips under the keel... my bulkheads run right to the bottom of the false keel... I think it will hold fine with the clamps... we'll see. So far, I like it but need to learn how to use it!

I highly recommend it! But keep in mind, if you are building from a kit, the planks come pre-cut. You can still use many of the techniques but unless you purchase some matching material, it will be difficult to do some of the things you'll learn... For example the wider planks at the keel... I'm planning to start the HMS Bounty and I will be using many of the things I learned. Good luck and let me know how it goes!

Thanks again, Toni. I hope to take what I've learned and apply it to my next build... I'm finishing up a 1:130 1847 Harvey kit. Should be done in a week or two. My next big project is AL's HMS Bounty! Really looking forward to getting started... Planning on some serious kit bashing!

Toni, Great learning project! I made some mistakes but am happy with the results and knowing how to fix those mistakes next time. Thanks! Here is mine all completed except for mounting... very soon!

Two coats of linseed oil with a light buff with steel wool between the coats. I've removed it from the board and have a plan for mounting it. I'll post the final product in the next few days! I have thoroughly enjoyed doing this little project and I learned a lot... primarily through my mistakes!! They are easy to see for the trained eye but am happy with final product and of what I learned.

Finishing the final planks... Trim and rail caps... I decided to do something a little different but with similar results. Using some wood leftover from a previous build, I made the rail caps and the trim: All done except the linseed oil! Oh... and the mount. That will be a few days. Linseed oil and off the board coming up!

Down to the last 3 planks and planking the counter and transom. Some decorative trim installed... more of that to come. Decided to change the color of the wale too: Should finish this weekend... depends on the sanding and finish. Planning to use Boiled Linseed Oil, 2-3 coats with a little steel wool sanding between coats. More pictures later in the weekend!

So, I was forced to deviate from the plans a little due to my not taking good measurements and keep the planks on a parallel with the wales. I chose not to start over or go back several planks because I got some good practice making dropped or stealer planks! Additionally, this is a teaching tool and I have learned a lot... and I'm not done. The last rows in the middle belt had to be modified to meet the wale properly: Last couple planks below the wale. Lower portion of the hull is done except for lots of sanding and finishing: On to the next part!

Looking good Dan. I'll post more pictures tonight... Be careful to ensure you stay parallel to the wale throughout the process. My BIG mistake was not doing so and I've had to add more dropped/stealer planks near the wale to make it come out right! No gonna start over!

I needed some better clamps... finally got them! The Wale is done! Now to finish the planking to the wale: More to come soon!

The first layer of the wale is in place! The dropped plank at the bow is the next step. And although the tutorial doesn't have two, I'm doing a second one because I got a little out of whack and I've decide to make it up with two dropped planks. The first is shown above ready to glue to the hull: Second layer of the wale is going on now.

The lower and middle belts are done! On to the next couple of layers and then the wale.

I thought I would take some time to show the process of marking, cutting and placing a plank. I have tried both methods that Toni offered in the tutorial and I have found that this one works best for me! The plank I've chosen is a relatively straight piece but gets the method across! First, I lay out a piece of tape onto the frames ensuring that I overlap the plank below. Additionally, make sure the tape is flat and tight against the the frames and lower plank. In some cases, you may need to use more than one piece (especially at the bow and stern) to navigate the curvature of the hull: As you can see, I've marked the center of each frame that the plank will touch and I've used a pencil to trace along the upper edge of the previous plank. Take your time doing this part, it's critical for a good tight fit!. Once the trace is done, remove the tape and place it on your cutting surface. Using a straight edge or a french curve, cut the traced edge from the tape. Now you should have an exact match for your lower edge. Test it by putting the piece of tape back on the frames and check for gaps, etc. Nice tight fit! Once your happy with the fit, place the tape back on your cutting surface and mark out the height of your plank. The height for my plank is 4mm. This is an exact match to the adjacent plank that this one butts up too. Mark your frame centers with the height of the plank measuring from your cut: And then, using a straight edge or french curve mark your top edge: Then transfer your tape to the basswood for cutting: In this case, because I had a really straight piece, I only have to cut the top edge. That doesn't happen too often! I lay a straight edge along the top line and carefully score the wood (just enough pressure to cut through the tape and score the wood). It is quite easy to get off track when doing this step. So, be careful and cut slowly. Subsequent cuts are done with a little more pressure until the piece is cut out: Don't throw that piece of tape out! Make sure your piece fits exactly they way you want... If it doesn't, you still have your template! Take your newly cut out plank and dry fit it... looking for gaps or other issues that may need some light sanding for a better fit. In this case, it was a really good fit: Next, I used a pencil and rubbed the lower edge and the butts to simulate the caulking between planks: Using a syringe, I applied glue along the plank edge that mates to this one and to frames: Placing the plank, clamping it down and removing any excessive glue is the final steps: The planks at the bow and stern require a little more work and will need to be bent, shaped and dried before gluing into place. I hope this better describes the process that each plank gets before placing! I've found that it gets easier as I go!