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LyleK1

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Everything posted by LyleK1

  1. Thanks Tim! I just didn't look far enough ahead! BTW< I love your build log! Been a good source of info! I've attached a picture of mine... Long ways to go!
  2. So, I'm working on the Bounty and I've run across a numbered piece that doesn't match anything! The picture below shows you the laser cut parts on one of the sheets. In the upper right corner is number 77. In the parts list and the instructions, #77 is a part of a box for one of the decks. If you look at the part, it clearly is not a flat piece for a box! Has anyone figured out what it is and where it goes? It looks a lot like a frame piece but all of those are set... nothing missing! HELP!!!
  3. Wow! You've made some great progress! Love the lighting... something I had planned to do too. I'll be examining your work closely as I like they way it turned out. I finally got started on my kit... staining frames and the keel... funny thing, I numbered my frames but the stain washed the numbers off! Not a big deal but I had a good laugh! Looking forward to your next updates.
  4. Yep... I actually used a permanent marker for mine and it worked... sorta ok. But I got some of the bleeding too and had to be extra careful when I started sanding. Turned out ok. You can see where I got into the ink.
  5. https://artesanialatina.net/en/modelcrafts-elite/486-wooden-model-ship-kit-hms-bounty.html Everything you'll need!
  6. I just started this kit too but am headed out on vacation until late August... will be watching your build as I plan to do a lot of kit bashing too. Looking good! I bought the Hobby Zone building slip and as you can see below, I think it will work quite well... some dry fitting in the works. See you in September!
  7. Just started on the Bounty with my slip... Trying to find the best way to set up for the laying of the bulkheads (shown dry fitting). I haven't gotten the level and square out... but I will just to confirm that it is true, level and square. Sure looks like it. You'll notice the strips under the keel... my bulkheads run right to the bottom of the false keel... I think it will hold fine with the clamps... we'll see. So far, I like it but need to learn how to use it!
  8. I highly recommend it! But keep in mind, if you are building from a kit, the planks come pre-cut. You can still use many of the techniques but unless you purchase some matching material, it will be difficult to do some of the things you'll learn... For example the wider planks at the keel... I'm planning to start the HMS Bounty and I will be using many of the things I learned. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
  9. Thanks again, Toni. I hope to take what I've learned and apply it to my next build... I'm finishing up a 1:130 1847 Harvey kit. Should be done in a week or two. My next big project is AL's HMS Bounty! Really looking forward to getting started... Planning on some serious kit bashing!
  10. Toni, Great learning project! I made some mistakes but am happy with the results and knowing how to fix those mistakes next time. Thanks! Here is mine all completed except for mounting... very soon!
  11. Two coats of linseed oil with a light buff with steel wool between the coats. I've removed it from the board and have a plan for mounting it. I'll post the final product in the next few days! I have thoroughly enjoyed doing this little project and I learned a lot... primarily through my mistakes!! They are easy to see for the trained eye but am happy with final product and of what I learned.
  12. Finishing the final planks... Trim and rail caps... I decided to do something a little different but with similar results. Using some wood leftover from a previous build, I made the rail caps and the trim: All done except the linseed oil! Oh... and the mount. That will be a few days. Linseed oil and off the board coming up!
  13. Down to the last 3 planks and planking the counter and transom. Some decorative trim installed... more of that to come. Decided to change the color of the wale too: Should finish this weekend... depends on the sanding and finish. Planning to use Boiled Linseed Oil, 2-3 coats with a little steel wool sanding between coats. More pictures later in the weekend!
  14. So, I was forced to deviate from the plans a little due to my not taking good measurements and keep the planks on a parallel with the wales. I chose not to start over or go back several planks because I got some good practice making dropped or stealer planks! Additionally, this is a teaching tool and I have learned a lot... and I'm not done. The last rows in the middle belt had to be modified to meet the wale properly: Last couple planks below the wale. Lower portion of the hull is done except for lots of sanding and finishing: On to the next part!
  15. Looking good Dan. I'll post more pictures tonight... Be careful to ensure you stay parallel to the wale throughout the process. My BIG mistake was not doing so and I've had to add more dropped/stealer planks near the wale to make it come out right! No gonna start over!
  16. I needed some better clamps... finally got them! The Wale is done! Now to finish the planking to the wale: More to come soon!
  17. The first layer of the wale is in place! The dropped plank at the bow is the next step. And although the tutorial doesn't have two, I'm doing a second one because I got a little out of whack and I've decide to make it up with two dropped planks. The first is shown above ready to glue to the hull: Second layer of the wale is going on now.
  18. I thought I would take some time to show the process of marking, cutting and placing a plank. I have tried both methods that Toni offered in the tutorial and I have found that this one works best for me! The plank I've chosen is a relatively straight piece but gets the method across! First, I lay out a piece of tape onto the frames ensuring that I overlap the plank below. Additionally, make sure the tape is flat and tight against the the frames and lower plank. In some cases, you may need to use more than one piece (especially at the bow and stern) to navigate the curvature of the hull: As you can see, I've marked the center of each frame that the plank will touch and I've used a pencil to trace along the upper edge of the previous plank. Take your time doing this part, it's critical for a good tight fit!. Once the trace is done, remove the tape and place it on your cutting surface. Using a straight edge or a french curve, cut the traced edge from the tape. Now you should have an exact match for your lower edge. Test it by putting the piece of tape back on the frames and check for gaps, etc. Nice tight fit! Once your happy with the fit, place the tape back on your cutting surface and mark out the height of your plank. The height for my plank is 4mm. This is an exact match to the adjacent plank that this one butts up too. Mark your frame centers with the height of the plank measuring from your cut: And then, using a straight edge or french curve mark your top edge: Then transfer your tape to the basswood for cutting: In this case, because I had a really straight piece, I only have to cut the top edge. That doesn't happen too often! I lay a straight edge along the top line and carefully score the wood (just enough pressure to cut through the tape and score the wood). It is quite easy to get off track when doing this step. So, be careful and cut slowly. Subsequent cuts are done with a little more pressure until the piece is cut out: Don't throw that piece of tape out! Make sure your piece fits exactly they way you want... If it doesn't, you still have your template! Take your newly cut out plank and dry fit it... looking for gaps or other issues that may need some light sanding for a better fit. In this case, it was a really good fit: Next, I used a pencil and rubbed the lower edge and the butts to simulate the caulking between planks: Using a syringe, I applied glue along the plank edge that mates to this one and to frames: Placing the plank, clamping it down and removing any excessive glue is the final steps: The planks at the bow and stern require a little more work and will need to be bent, shaped and dried before gluing into place. I hope this better describes the process that each plank gets before placing! I've found that it gets easier as I go!
  19. Working on the middle planking belt. No real problems with this part... yet! Two rows completed and now starting on the third row. Formed the aft plank with water and heat. Seen here clamped down until it is dry. Speaking of clamps, with the spacers now coming into play, clamping with my current method may become a bit more of a challenge. I may need to be a little creative to clamp full planks. We'll see over the next few days!
  20. Hi Dan! Funny... I used your build log through the first several steps as help for me! So, thank you for your pictures and logs too. I've started on the middle belt and have the first of 4 rows laid down... updates to this log later tonight or tomorrow. The "sketch" Toni is referring to, is a sketch of where your plank butts will fall. Keeping in mind the "rules" she laid out for distance between butts and layers between butts. Her pattern for the lower plank belt worked great for me and I used her locations. I marked them right on the frames with a red pen. See the picture below: I'm figuring the locations out for the middle belt on my own. Finally understanding the method/reasons for the historically accurate planking. Looking forward to trying it on my next build (AL's HMS Bounty)! Let me know if I can help any further and good luck!
  21. Thanks RGR... But I didn't like the bow. Bugged me that it was starting to curve up in the smiley face! Soooo... I took it apart and re-planked the last three layers: Gotta be very careful when shaping and cutting the bow pieces. The were to wide and began swooping upwards! It's never fun to remove work that you've already done! The results are much more to my liking: After messing with the bow and getting it right, I got started on the middle belt planks. The stern piece had to be cut to fit the stealer and accomplish the final step in getting back in parallel with the wales. Mission accomplished: Onwards!
  22. Thanks Voyageur! Hope some of my rambling helps! The lower belt of planks are done! ...and the aft stealer is installed! The stealer was easier than I thought it would be... getting the planks back on parallel with the wales. On to the middle belt!
  23. Made some good progress over the weekend! Think I'm finally getting the hang of this! In Toni Levine's tutorial, she outlines two different methods of marking out the next plank to be used. Method 1 is using a compass to trace the pattern of the plank below the one you are making... I used this method for several planks before trying method 2... Method 2 is laying a piece of tape overlapping the lower plank and tracing the plank edge with a pencil. I found this method to be more to my liking and have switched to using it. My seams are little tighter and I haven't had to re-make any planks (so far!). Here is a couple pictures of my progress through today: I am much happier with the last couple of planking rows. I have one plank left to finish the lower belt. I have marked out the area for the stealer and as you can see in one of the pictures above, it will be on the agenda next! This picture shows the outline of the stealer and the filler piece I had to install for it to end on. Another update in a few days!
  24. Been doing some boating... Back at the half hull. Pictures below show the first row of planks being installed. The process worked well but I need to work on my free hand cutting. See what you think: Next row tomorrow!
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