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Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 253 – Wooden Blocks
 
There are well over 500 blocks on the model, ranging from 15" in shell length down to 4".  These include triple, double, and single blocks.  Some will be iron strapped, some spliced to pendants, but most will be rope strapped.  "Strap" seems to be the American usage for the word "strop" so I will adopt it for this American ship.
 
Some of these blocks, in a range of sizes, will need to be fitted to the lower fore yard before it is installed.  To avoid getting into one-at-a-time, piecemeal work, some mass production was adopted.  So the next major task will be to make at least a substantial portion of the full requirement.  The few blocks installed so far were leftovers from a previous model.
 
At the outset of the rigging work a detailed "Rigging List" was developed to describe every line on the model, including its components.  From this, a count of blocks of each type of block was tabulated.  To that was added an estimate for studding sail blocks.  Those lines are not included on the list.
 
The blocks are being made from my best quality European boxwood – for hardness, strength, and color.  Whenever I dip into what I have left of this wood, I immediately get frugal about waste.  For the full supply of blocks, I sliced off a wood blank about 2" wide, 8" long, and slightly thicker than the shell breadth of the largest size, 15" blocks.  The first picture shows strips sliced from this plank for all the larger blocks – down to 9" singles.
 

 
Using the thickness sander, the 2" wide blank was first reduced in thickness to the shell breadth of the 15" blocks.  A single strip was then sliced from this at the single block width.  There are no 15" doubles or triples.  For the next size down, the 12" blocks, the blank was again reduced in thickness.  Adequate strips for triple, double and single widths were sliced off that – and so on.  This one blank may suffice for all the blocks.
 
The pictures below show work on the 12" triple blocks.  I was surprised at the number of these – about 25 as I recall.  Their use in triple-purchase tackles for topsail sheets account for most of these.
 
To mass produce the blocks to specified dimensions, a table of block dimensions for each size was used to produce a drilling pattern and sequence.  This was used to drill correctly spaced holes in each strip, starting with transverse holes at the ends of the shells to delineate length and also to provide a slight top and bottom groove to seat the strapping.  This is shown in the next picture.
 

 
Before drilling, a shallow groove was scraped along the strip on both outer shell sides.  This is a modeling convenience that helps in seating the straps, especially  the round copper wire "iron" straps that will be filed flat on the outside.  Scrapers for this were made by machine grinding a razor blade for each shell breadth. 
 
  The next picture shows the strip rotated in the vise for drilling of the smaller, 1½" (.022") sheave holes – six in each of these triple blocks.
 
 
 
All holes were located using the calculated spacings, set by the mill's calibrated wheels. In the picture, the center row has been drilled and one of the outer rows is in progress.  These holes are very close together, so sharp bits, short bit projection, high speed, and very light feed are essential.  Even at that, the entry point of the drill in these unmarked holes may vary by a few thousandths as may be seen in the next photo.
 

 
Next, slots were pared out between the sheave holes and the sheave curvature cut, using a small chisel as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The chisel width was ground to match the drill size and then downsized for each smaller size of block.  The next picture shows the strip after this slotting work.
 

 
A knife edge file was then used to mark all four faces at the separation points using the first-drilled, transverse holes as guides.  The blocks were then given a preliminary rounding with a barrette file while still attached as shown in the next picture.
 
 
 The next picture shows blocks being cut from the strip using a fine-bladed jewelers saw. 
 

 
Each block was then rounded to its final shape using a sanding strip.  The last picture shows the finished set of 12" blocks, including two with iron strapping and hooks.
 

 
The strapping on the two blocks shown will be blackened.  The single blocks to the left have not yet been fully rounded.
 
 
Ed

Fantastic work Ed-something to aspire to.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but I'm a little thick headed these days anyway-why are there 4 holes in the block? I understand the 2 for the sheaves and the 1 for attachment, but I don't know what the hole in the middle does-other than to hold the plates together should the block be disassembled for maintenance. Just curious. . .
Thanks again for enlightening us with such beautiful work and clear instructions.
 
Harvey

Flo
After you drill (or punch or whatever you do) the holes for putty, consider putting some type of sealant (like a flat, clear lacquer) in the holes before putting the putty in. That should help keep the stain in the putty from migrating into the end grain of the holly. One nice thing about putting a clear finish in the holes is that you should be able to scrape the deck to get any excess off.
 
Just a thought.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Thanks Ed. That makes sense, since you don't want to it to fly apart when repairing it in a seaway.
 
Harvey

Fantastic work Ed-something to aspire to.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but I'm a little thick headed these days anyway-why are there 4 holes in the block? I understand the 2 for the sheaves and the 1 for attachment, but I don't know what the hole in the middle does-other than to hold the plates together should the block be disassembled for maintenance. Just curious. . .
Thanks again for enlightening us with such beautiful work and clear instructions.
 
Harvey

Thanks Ed. That makes sense, since you don't want to it to fly apart when repairing it in a seaway.
 
Harvey

Thanks Ed. That makes sense, since you don't want to it to fly apart when repairing it in a seaway.
 
Harvey

Fantastic work Ed-something to aspire to.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but I'm a little thick headed these days anyway-why are there 4 holes in the block? I understand the 2 for the sheaves and the 1 for attachment, but I don't know what the hole in the middle does-other than to hold the plates together should the block be disassembled for maintenance. Just curious. . .
Thanks again for enlightening us with such beautiful work and clear instructions.
 
Harvey

John, Thank you! Here is a quick "In Progress" showing the painted fixtures with ladders and railing panted. One lesson I have learned is that whenever possible do the spay painting first and then add the ladders to avoid excessive paint build up. I still have more details to add and these so far are just press fitted in place. Once all are completed only then will I add the deck railing to avoid damage. The horn is painted gray and just set in place for now. For a sense of scale the diagonal braces are .020" brass wire. 
 

 

 
Now off to the dentist for my bi annual cleaning. Maybe she will sharpen them up for turkey day.   
 

Wow.  I am overwhelmed by the very generous comments on the last post - but a little disoriented in thinking about the possibility that Druxey would consider "fudging" something.  That does not compute.
 
As with many tasks on the model, this one had its fits and starts - mostly on the question of how to make all of them efficiently.  Once over that hurdle and with some help from CAD, it was downhill.  Deciding not to solder was a key decision and really simplified the work - and... thank you, Sherline.  I don't know what we would do without those calibration wheels.
 
There are no dumb questions Harvey, only dumb answers.  I took the design of the sheet blocks from a detail on one of the drawings in Underhill, Masting and Rigging of the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier - a truly wonderful resource.  I did not think too much about the four pins, but I believe that the central pin is important structurally, to maintain spacing, and to allow sheaves or the top pin to be removed without the whole assembly coming apart.  There was probably a spacer boss on the center pin.  
 
Again, thank you all for following and for the flattering comments.
 
Ed

Fantastic work Ed-something to aspire to.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but I'm a little thick headed these days anyway-why are there 4 holes in the block? I understand the 2 for the sheaves and the 1 for attachment, but I don't know what the hole in the middle does-other than to hold the plates together should the block be disassembled for maintenance. Just curious. . .
Thanks again for enlightening us with such beautiful work and clear instructions.
 
Harvey

Fantastic work Ed-something to aspire to.
 
Maybe a dumb question, but I'm a little thick headed these days anyway-why are there 4 holes in the block? I understand the 2 for the sheaves and the 1 for attachment, but I don't know what the hole in the middle does-other than to hold the plates together should the block be disassembled for maintenance. Just curious. . .
Thanks again for enlightening us with such beautiful work and clear instructions.
 
Harvey

Flo
After you drill (or punch or whatever you do) the holes for putty, consider putting some type of sealant (like a flat, clear lacquer) in the holes before putting the putty in. That should help keep the stain in the putty from migrating into the end grain of the holly. One nice thing about putting a clear finish in the holes is that you should be able to scrape the deck to get any excess off.
 
Just a thought.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Flo
After you drill (or punch or whatever you do) the holes for putty, consider putting some type of sealant (like a flat, clear lacquer) in the holes before putting the putty in. That should help keep the stain in the putty from migrating into the end grain of the holly. One nice thing about putting a clear finish in the holes is that you should be able to scrape the deck to get any excess off.
 
Just a thought.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Also I mentioned that I was rushing to get the model in a presentable state. I got far enough but did not get the deck on. I took it anyway to the Birthday celebration at the US Navy Station in Everett, WA. Unfortunately almost no one understood what I was showing. They asked if it had oars and many other similar questions. I guess I need to wait until I have masts. It was a good event. We had 30 people there. One of our members told about how he had to bail out about 40 years ago. He is till the only person to bail out of a US Navy plane and end up floating in Crater Lake.
 
 

Thanks you all for your kind words. No secret to painting just patience and a couple of tips mentioned above. I am waiting for the PE ladders and railing to show up so I started the deck fixtures for the navigation deck which is quite busy on the real ship.
 
Here is an "In Progress" update. I first made the two communication domes and the one with the deck needs both a ladder and railing. I then moved onto the main mast, also known as the "Christmas Tree" per Evan. The challenge here is soldering the various components at this small scale. As usual I made sure that there was mechanical interlocks as best that could be done. The main mast started with a 3/32" rod turned down to 1/16" for the upper section. The real mast hinges at the second small platform for clearance to go under some bridges. This assembly required a great deal of patience and thinking ahead for each next move when soldering so as not to loosen a previous soldered part. The thin bracing bracing wire is .005" brass rod. I still need to add ladders and railing this as well. The assembly will be painted white below the hinge point and flat black above. I will also need to add the various colors of the mast signal lights which will be super tiny. 
 
I also added a picture of the stabilizing fin that has one on each side. They pivot in and out.
 

 
 

 

 

 

 
Now back to making more fixtures for this deck.
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 250 – Fore Yard Truss
 
Lower yards on ships of this type were attached to the masts using iron trusses.  The fore yard truss will position the yard about 6 feet forward of the mast.  It is configured in the form of a universal joint that allowed the yard to be "braced", that is, rotated around the mast, or "topped," raised at one end or the other.  The weight of the yard was taken mostly by a separate chain sling shackled to the center of the yard and bolted to the mast just below the hounds.  Making and fitting of both these parts are described below. 
 
A pattern for the yoke that connects the truss to the yard is pasted to a 1/8" copper plate in the first picture. 
 
 
This curved yoke lies in the horizontal plane, has vertical holes at the ends for bolting to yard band brackets and horizontal hole through its center for a bolt to a universal fitting that will allow vertical rotation and topping.  The shape of the yoke was first cut out using a jeweler's saw, then filed to a rounded shape.  The next picture shows the shaping in progress and the yard band bolt holes drilled.
 

 
The wide band at the center of the yard will be drilled for the sling eyebolt.  The next picture shows the universal fitting bolted through the yoke.  It has an eye at the aft end to fit the bracket in the mast band that was installed earlier. 
 

 
In the picture, two long wire bolts have been inserted through the yard band brackets and yoke eyes.  These were first peened to form rivet heads as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The pliers in the picture have half-round slots filed into the jaws that allow wire to be held for peening of the end. I believe this process was described earlier, perhaps in a Naiad post.  In the next picture one of the long bolts has been clipped off on the underside, leaving just enough for its head to be peened, locking the yoke arm to the bracket. 
 
 
A flat-end center punch was used for this.  The other bolt was then inserted, clipped and peened to complete the attachment.  Unfortunately I did not take photos when making the universal fitting, so a description of that will await work on a later mast.  Note in the picture that the yard bands are pinned to the underside of the yard with small copper bolts.
 
The weight of the yard, as mentioned above was mostly taken by a chain sling.  This is shown in the next picture, shackled at one end to an eyebolt temporarily inserted through the central yard band.
 

 
To set the length of the chain, the yard was temporarily hung and the chain held with tweezers as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The tweezers were used to hold the chain at a link that could be fitted with an eyebolt into the mast that would hold the truss level.  The chain was cut at this point and an eyebolt spun onto it.  The hole for the eyebolt was then spotted on the mast, again by holding the eyebolt with tweezers and marking the height that would hold the truss level.  The next picture shows the yard hung temporarily with eyebolts inserted.
 

 
The next picture shows the yard fully braced around to the point where it contacts the forestay and almost touches the forward lower shroud.
 

 
There is still much work to do on this yard before installing it permanently, some of the parts were shown earlier.  Others will be described in the next parts.
 
Ed           

I finally ordered one sheet of rails(3501) and inclined ladders(3535) after not receiving any response from Tom's Modelworks and thanks to a reply from Dan. I also decided after finishing both the bow thruster and side stabilizing fins to paint the hull in order to add railing and main deck structures. First I painted the red stripe area masking from the top of the stripe up over the main deck. Once the red dried over night I taped off the red stripe with 1/4" masking tape matching the top edge. Then masked off the bottom to paint the blue and let it dry overnight. Next came the bottom burgundy.
 
Using spray cans I warmed the cans under hot water and then shaking each time until I could not feel any temperature change. This does two things; it increases the spray pressure and warms the paint for better atomizing for spraying. Repeated the warming process between coats. I sprayed light coats so as to not bleed under the tape and this provides a clean crisp line when finished.
 
I still need to paint the forward bow shield white and then the entire hull will be sprayed with a matte finish to even out all the finishes. 
Here are a couple of pictures.

 

 

 
Next I will start on the various deck fixtures based upon pictures supplied by Evan until the rails and ladders get here.

Thanks John and Popeye.
 
After adding the previous details I decided I may as well do the rest of the deck sides. I've added the Piping, using 0.3mm nickel-silver wire. I'm thinking of leaving it as-is rather than painting it.
 
I'll also add hatch covers when I can get my printer to work, I've already copied all the covers from a scan of the parts sheet :

 
  Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 249 – Lower Fore Yard 3
 
There is a variety of ironwork to be installed on every square yard.  Beginning with the iron sling band at the center and the reinforcing bands on made yards.  These and other bands, as well as some structures attached to bands, like studdingsail boom brackets, must be sized to each individual yard.   Others, like iron sheet blocks that hang from the center of the yard, cheek blocks for sheets at the yardarms and to some extent iron trusses, are more standardized and lend themselves to a "mass production" approach, if making seven or eight identical parts can be considered "mass."  So, while the work shown in this part and the next was able to proceed, progress was soon hindered until a batch of standard parts could be produced for all the yards.  Developing processes for those has taken some time and this has slowed work on the first yards.  This and the next part describe work on the fore yard before interruption to make sheet and cheek blocks, to be described later.
 
The first picture shows iron (i.e. copper) banding at the center of the yard.
 
 
Most of this is ½" thick x 4" wide – actually slightly thicker (.010").  The center sling band is thicker (.015") – and wider.  It will eventually be drilled top and bottom to secure eyebolts for the chain sling and the sheet block.  Outside of that are two more thicker bands that will secure the iron yard truss, then the first reinforcing band, a band to secure a block,  then a band than will attach a sheet fairlead, then two more bands, one reinforcing and one for a block.  Additional bands were added out to the first studdingsail bracket that is described below. 
 
But first, the basic banding method.  This was described in an earlier post.  The first step is cutting banding material to a length that will form a ring slightly smaller than the yard diameter at its location.  Some ways to do this were described earlier.  The ends of the band are then butted together and silver soldered.  A soldering setup to keep the ends together is shown in the next picture.
 

 
Two steel blocks were used for this.  After soldering, the misshapen bands are then pushed on to a wooden mandrel to shape them and provide a holder for filing (if needed), smoothing, and polishing as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Using a separate mandrel for this helps keep the spar clean.  This one is maple, one of a pair in different sizes to be used for this purpose.  The mandrel may also be used for sizing bands.  This was described in Part 184.  After this step the band is fitted to the yard, with the last ¼" or so a forced fit.
 
The next picture shows fabrication of a studdingsail boom bracket.
 

 
The band is made a fitted to the spar first.  The square piece of hard brass is the silver-soldered to it as shown in the picture.  The two brass bands under the brass leg are used to center the leg on the band width.  The leg is then cut to length and the outer bands for the booms soldered on.
 

 
These are test fitted to the studdingsail booms as shown in the next picture.
 
 
 
The outer boom irons are made in a similar way, with the addition of a simulated roller on the bottom side of the boom band.  The next picture shows the setup for soldering the roller to the bands.
 

 
The rounded out area on the copper wire will be placed under the band in the final setup before soldering, after clipping off the wire.  This is a simplified simulation of the actual roller, which would be on an axle within the band diameter.   In the last picture, the outer arm has been bent and inserted into the end of the yard and shown with the yard temporarily mounted.
 
 
There is more work to do on these parts, including blackening.  Also, the reinforcement of the yardarm is not shown.  This includes a u-shaped band wrapped around on the axis of the yard and two circular reinforcing bands over it.  I will show pictures of this later.  Also, this photo shows the yard truss that will be described in the next part.
 
Ed

My occupationgrowns up. She is one year old now

Happy 242nd Birthday to all Marines! Semper Fi to those who fly!

Mark, the two planing beds, one with cams the other V-grooved, are 3 1/2" x 3/4 pine planks that rest at the ends on 3/4" thick strips and are screwed through these into a 2 x 4 (i e 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" w) - for stiffness.  Near the center of the bed are two screws through holes in the bed into the 2x4.  Tightening these screws depresses the bed in a curve in the center.  A 3/4" shim is used under the center of the bed to restore it to a flat state when the screws are loosened.  The 2 x 4 is vise mounted.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 248 – Lower Fore Yard 2
 
The assembly shown in the last picture of the last post was slit into two and the one for the fore yard downsized to make the 22" squared "first trim" for this spar.  In the first picture holes along the centerline of the spar, in this case jackstay eyebolt holes, are being drilled in the still-square spar.
 

 
This method and the alignment of the vise using a center-finder was described in Part 226.  Using the center-finder helps locate the holes on the precise centerline.  Pencil marks for the quarters, the square near the end of the yard, and the end of the yard arm may be seen in this picture.  The next picture shows the second trim, that is, the tapering of two of the four faces.
 

 
In the next picture the spar is clamped in the planning fixture and one of the two remaining faces is being planed.
 

 
The next picture shows the completed third trim, with all four faces tapered but still square in section
 

 
In the next picture the spar has had the corners of the octagon shape scribed with the tool described in an earlier post and the V-grooved planning fixture is being adjusted to prevent the now-curved spar from rocking.
 

 
This adjustment uses screws to depress the center of the bed to the shape of the spar.  All four corners were removed and the spar rounded on this fixture.  The following picture shows the spar with the first few "iron" bands fitted.
 

Because this is a made spar, it is round in section through the center to allow shrunk-fit reinforcing hoops to be installed to hold the assembly together.  These bands plus a variety of others will be fitted, beginning at the center and working outward.  The bands are made small enough to be force fit into their final positions.
 
Ed

At the waist there are five stanchions to support the rough-tree rail and two stanchions for the entering ropes.  In contrast to the forecastle stanchions, these have a U-bracket top instead of a loop.  The U-bracket is drilled for pins to secure the rail.  The rail itself is 2" x 4".  When I was making these I referred to TFFM Vol 2 and thought that I saw each side of the bracket drilled for two pins.  After everything was secured I went back to the drawing and discovered that only one hole is represented.  After about 30 seconds of soul searching I decided that I liked the look of the two holes and left them as is.  I have not decided whether to put a fastener through the holes or not.  The entry stanchions are very similar to the forecastle stanchions, except taller.