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Posts posted by seafarermiami
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Sails should be attached to the yards. Start from the mizen mast and go ahead first rigging the lower sails. Some lines for the topsails can be attached to their pins first and made trough all blocks and narrow places and thus after rigging the lower sails will be easy to rig the upper one. Look at my build log for the Dutch fleyte.
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- JesseLee, Piet, GrandpaPhil and 1 other
- 4
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My son has a huge fish tank. It will cruse there.
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Let's make a difference. Capstan is with vertical axel. Windlass is with the horizontal axel.
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- Piet, Doreltomin, JesseLee and 1 other
- 4
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My next will be in a bottle
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- qwerty2008, Aussie048, JesseLee and 1 other
- 4
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Yes the hull should be more narrow somewhat 4-5 to 1 this is just 3 to 1. I don't pretend for historical accuracy. This is just a toy which has as much details as I can input in this scale. Something like 3D picture.
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You welcome.
Here the planks are removed and a framing of the gunwales is installed. Began construction of the rails. It is tricky task and in order to be build strong because there are belay pin planks attached to them and in the same time good looking I use toothpicks and coffee stirrers again. I think it is visible how it is done.
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Inserting the main deck. The cargo hatches are cut out and the coamings are inserted too. The coamings are made out from coffee stirrers. The gratings are from split broomsticks. I mean not the handle of the broom but the working part .After that they are clad in ply strips to imitate timbers and cover whatever uneven edges occurred.
Then follow the framing for the upper sides and forecastle in which is included the big winch character for this type of vessels. It is actually supporting the aftermost deck beam on the forecastle. Three planks are glued very slightly to the hatchcoamings in order to serve as midshipframes. They will be removed afterwards. For the sides I use a cardboard templet which I draw pressing piece of cardboard to the side. If the ship is wright one is good enough for the both sides. After that I cut the sides out from mahogany ply using the templet. To bend them I dip them in rubbing alcohol.
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The guns are made out from medical tube needles I have made even smaller as the swivel guns for other models. If you go in a medical store you can see what small sizes they have. The rings are from copper wire which I wrap around the tube once and cut the exes by a nail clippers. Then take it out from the tube and press it slightly to meet the ends even. After that I insert them back on the tube and glue them. But even just the spray paint is enough to keep them in position. The bigger diameter tube is used to form the back part of the gun. After that I glued them in position and pulled the smaller tube out so do not be obstruction during the further building of the model.
The picture below is of a swivel gun of a caraca
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The lower deck and the tweendeck are sealed watertight in order to provide buoyance even if the ship is listed on 90 degrees
ratlines,tarred or not?
in Masting, rigging and sails
Posted
From the practical point of view the ratlines should be tarred. First I don't think somebody would keep them clear when tarring is going on a regular basis. At least where the knots are for sure they are tarred. Second as a standing rigging this will prolong their life at least twice. And the third I don't think somebody would care for the cleanliness of the sailors feet at that time. They never had a boots besides. The other think is that in tropical climate all the oils of the tar evaporates in two days and is not sticky at all.