realworkingsailor

An interesting explanation of the aerodynamic properties of the P-51: (Note: the presenter’s information is all sourced from primary source documents and test reports) Andy

I feel compelled to jump in, if you don’t mind, with a small factual (fun?) tidbit. The prototype photo you posted is in fact a P-51H model, not a P-51D. Aside from other design changes, it used an entirely different NACA wing profile than the “D” model, and can be most easily recognized by the straight leading edge. Andy

Greetings everyone! The autumn weather is now upon us, and it seems a little more appropriate to spend some time at the work bench building small things again! Over the last weeks I have begun picking away at my P-40 project. It took a little bit to get the momentum up after a summer off, but I think things are finally picking up a head of steam! First up, I did a little bit of work on the sprues fitting some of the aftermarket resin. The CMK cockpit sidewalls are a drop in fit that directly replace the kit parts. \ The detail level is much improved over the originals: Not that much will be seen anyway! After working through the first couple of steps in the instructions, most of the interior is now completed and painted. I have put my new spray booth and air compressor to work, and I am so happy to be able to use my airbrush again! Rather than make some custom mix, I simply sprayed Humbrol interior green #226. Seems to be reasonably close to some of the colour photos I've found online of P-40 cockpits. Some of the details were picked out in an appropriate colour. The next sept will be to adda little light weathering and some dry brushing with some silver paint to simulate a little wear and tear, but apparently I will have to do a little dusting first! The remainder of the interior components consist of the radiator/oil cooler assembly. The instructions say to simply paint it an aluminium colour, but I added a little gunmetal in the grills for visual interest. The instrument panel was a Yahu models replacement, I added this after sanding off the moulded details. The final bit is the armour plate and cockpit seat. The seat was another CMK resin product that came complete with moulded on seatbelts. A little weathering on these parts (and some more dusting) and they will be added to the fuselage. Yeesh, this macro photography business is going to drive me nuts! The remainder to the cockpit floor is moulded on to the top of the wing section. Again a little chipping and weathering (and dusting) is in order. Jumping ahead a little bit I've also installed and painted the interior of the wheel wells. Unlike my Blackburn Skua build, the wheel well frames don't require any sanding to allow both halves of the wing to fit together. The Skua wheel wells required considerable plastic removal before the wing halves could even get near each other. I must say, that so far I am thoroughly enjoying this kit! As one of Special Hobby's newer offerings, the fit of the parts is much more precise than in their earlier kits. There are locating pins and tabs to make sure parts end up in the right place, and a cursory dry fit of the fuselage and wings seems to suggest that only minor filling and sanding will be required (a precision on the level of some of the better Airfix kits!). Definitely a kit worth building! Andy

You would have to show me which line you are referring to, although I can see the fairlead. Open top fairleads would not be used to redirect lines from an upwards direction, but rather sideways or downwards. On modern ships, we use fairleads all the time to redirect mooring lines, and it’s far from a new concept, as is the practice of shifting a ship alongside a dock. While it doesn’t show in any photo posted in this topic, I’m fairly certain those fairleads are doubtless securely attached to the beams below. For what it’s worth, all the fairleads are open topped, which means ropes were meant to be passed through and then removed with regular frequency during their use. All this strongly suggests to me that they were most likely used as I suspect, for directing mooring ropes from ship side fairleads to a favourable run to a more distant capstan. Andy

John, think about the task of warping the ship alongside. The mooring lines would need to be led to either capstans or windlasses to be worked. While your diagram indicates one capstan on the bow, there appears to be two paired amidships and two aft. A forward spring line could be led aft to the midship capstan, while the headline would be worked via the bow capstan. The stern lines would be worked by one aft capstan and the stern springs by the opposite side stern capstan. Andy

I think the capstans in the well deck give a major clue! I’m just thinking it may be the fairleads are there to direct the inboard end of a mooring rope towards a central winch or capstan. After tensioning, the mooring rope would be stoppered up and made fast to a bit on the poop or fo’c’sle, adjacent to where it comes inboard. It would also come into use when warping (shifting) the ship along side the dock, using those same capstans. Andy

I had a quick look at your first post regarding the “duchess” and you mentioned she was involved in the grain trade. Early grain unloading legs used drag lines to move the grain from around the cargo hold towards the end of the leg. It’s possible that the fairlead in question was for running a drag line off one of the ship’s own winches. An example of the operation can be seen here: https://www.buffalohistorygazette.net/p/buffalo-grain-scoopers-photo-tribute.html?m=1 Andy

If I had to guess, it looks very much like a scene from the winter of 1919/1920, when the French were clearing up the mess left behind, and refugees were maybe returning to see what was left of their homes and farms. Steam engines were very dangerous near the trenches! The smoke would tend to draw artillery fire. A good book to check out is Tracks to the Trenches by David Guay. It’s about the trench railway systems that were built to supply troops. Andy

Count me in! Always fascinating seeing your work! Glad to see you back! Andy

“May have” ?? “ ”Small order” ??? uhh huh…. Riiiight…. 😜 Nice job with the rigging BTW…. Andy

Done that too! Delicious pizza! (Came from Detroit, though). We’d call in our order down bound on lake St. Clair. I sailed with one old timer, I swear he smuggled an entire automobile across the boarder, one part at a time. Took him a few seasons, but he managed. Andy

Neat looking figures! My only observation, as a somewhat experienced seafarer, that doesn’t look to be a particularly tenable position for the telescope. It wouldn’t take much of a roll to have it leave the table and land with a crash… Perhaps a set of dividers, or other navigational instruments might be safer! Andy

As a hobbyist and a former Great Lakes mariner, I’ve made use of their services on a few occasions. I found it to be a great way to order stuff up from the US, and save a ton of $$ on postage (and sometimes other… uh…. fees 😉). Andy

Does this help any: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/2/4/249624-30-instructions.pdf There’s a bit of a rigging diagram. Andy

Fair enough! I guess it would be a matter of replacing one headache with another! Andy

If the laser parts are only half thickness, could you order a second set of them and laminate them together (with the laser parts you have) to create the desired 1mm thickness? Andy

Apologies for my near silence for the last few weeks, there have been a couple of developments in my life, one very good, and one not quite so good. The not so good concerns my furry little helper, Freyja. A couple of years ago she ruptured her right cruciate ligament and had to undergo surgery to repair her knee (a TPLO surgery for all you vet types!). That all healed up exceptionally well, but with the caveat that if she’s blown one, the other will surely follow at some stage (generally sooner rather than later). Well, later happened shortly after my last post here. A vet visit and yet another surgery, and I’m now in the process of nursing her back to health again. She looks a little silly, with her shaved posterior (complete with butt sling), and the doughnut of disgrace (we don’t like the cone of shame, we have figured out how to chew it to pieces), but she’s recovering well and within a few months, she’ll be back to her old bouncy, energetic self. I’ll leave the good development for a later time, but suffice it to say that it was a long time coming, and that I’m happy. I’ll do my best to follow along with everyone’s builds, and post something when I can. And I will keep you all updated on Freyja’s progress! Andy

It’s important to distinguish the difference between a build ways and a drydock. A build way is typically sloped to the water’s edge, and while the ship is built, it doesn’t actually rest on the slipway until just before launching. A drydock is constructed below the level of the water, and does have a flat bottom. It might have some sloped drainage towards the centerline, or to wherever the drain valves are located. Where pumps are not available, drydocks can make use of natural topography to fill and empty. For example, by locating the dock some ways up a river, after closing the gate, the water can be drained to sea level (helps also to do the draining when the sea is at low tide). There is a drydock in Port Weller, Ontario, that is located above the first lock in the Welland canal. It doesn’t use pumps at all. The water is allowed to drain down the 40’ drop into Lake Ontario. Things haven’t changed too drastically over time so some pre-modern ship launching techniques are similar. Prior to launching, the slipways (usually a pair of flat beams laid astride the keel (you can see these in the picture of the shipyard model you posted), are well greased with tallow or other lubricants. A pair of special launch cradles are constructed fore and aft. These cradles will bear the weight and balance of the ship when it comes time for the launching. These will slide down the slipway, but are held static by a series of chocks and braces. Once the launch cradles are built and braced in position, the ship is then slowly lowered from its build staging (usually by knocking out the keel blocks) onto to the launch cradles. Any remaining staging is removed, and when the time comes for launching, the chocks are knocked out and the cradles (with the ship) slide down the ways into the water. Typically hawsers or anchor cables are used to arrest the movement of the ship once waterborne. Hope that helps. Andy

Judging by the gentlemen in suits and ties at the far right of the photo, probably a demonstration shoot, but yeah, a very impressive photo! Andy

For best results this video must be played LOUD: 😀 Andy

Looks great Dan! I’m glad the Yahu IP worked for you! Andy

Nice job Chris! Are you sure you want to park it next to your Bf109? You might wake up one morning to find one or the other inexplicably turned into confetti! Andy

Very nicely done BE! Looks great! Andy

A bit more fun for everyone: Andy

Welcome! Glad to have you along for the journey! Andy