realworkingsailor

Coincidentally, in todays Great Lakes history page on Boatnerd there’s a picture of the Fred W Green, another ship of the same family, with an interesting mast arrangement: (A brief history of the ship can be found in the link above) Andy

Thanks everyone! Time for a small update. Some paint has happened, sporadically, over the last few days. Enough that I can at least show some progress has been made. I began by painting the inside with interior green. After that dried I picked out the flight instruments and controls on the side consoles, as well as the heel plates in black. These were then dry-brushed with Floquil "Old Silver" to highlight edges and other worn surfaces. Finally the tiny control levers were picked out in red and green. I based this on cockpit photos I found online of the preserved Beaufighter in the US Airforce Museum, as well as photos of a preserved Aussie Mk 21. The pilot and observer's seats were then added, but not before adding some PE seatbelts. I scavenged the not-quite-100%-correct observer's seatbelt from some more leftovers from my Wellington build (I got lucky, Eduard accidentally slipped in an extra detail set in the package I ordered), I'm not too hung up on it, free PE is free PE. Now for some photos! First up, the fuselage interior: The observer's seat: Finally, the cockpit area and pilot's seat: All that remains is to build, paint and install the control stick and assemble the instrument panel and rudder pedals and I can begin some of the major assembly. Andy

I’ve seen many different arrangements of masts on these types of ships. They were built in many different yards, and many had long service lives (those that survived WW2), with many different owners. As you said, the mast arrangement was altered at some point, probably due to different service needs or owners requirements. What’s sometimes hard to really gauge is how small these ships were. It’s possible they left the after mast in that position in order to accommodate a longer derrick boom (albeit one that would look perfectly normal if fitted to something like a Liberty ship). It would be more convenient to flat stow a longer boom over the entire well deck, rather than have the end of the boom(s) protruding over the stern (or into the accommodation) had the mast be positioned between the two hatches. Andy

It wouldn’t hurt to mention that Airfix’s product support is also pretty good. I had a minor issue with some of the parts on my Typhoon build and they sent free replacements. They’re not the fastest (there’s really not a large number of people working in Airfix’s front office), but a little back and forth via e-mail (mostly to clarify shipping info) and the parts were shipped within two weeks (it took another two weeks for them to arrive, but that’s a postal service issue). Andy

Thanks Mike! Most of the newer offerings from Airfix all seem to be pretty decent. In terms of overall detail, they’re fairly middle of the road. I’ve seen a lot of YouTube modellers complain of a lack of rivet details and “cavernous” panel lines, but if you’re not too hung up about those points, there’s mostly no issue (although the latter issue varies with the age of the tooling, newer toolings being slightly better). I think they strike a fairly decent balance between level of detail and price, so if you wish to go for any aftermarket parts, you shouldn’t have to break the bank. For larger subjects, I’m assuming you mean bombers and the like? I think that Airfix’s Lancaster model is highly regarded, and multiple variants are available. I think their B-17 is of similar quality, though I haven’t researched it as much. Both come with considerable interior details. The same can be said for their medium bomber offerings (Wellington, Whitley, B-25, He-111, etc). Another nice thing Airfix has done, is they have rereleased some of their older products under their “Vintage Classics” line. They can vary considerably in quality, due to age and mould usage, but they’re very upfront about those facts (showing the tooling date on the box side), so you know what you’re getting into. Unlike some other companies who just repackage old kits in new boxes and price them like modern tooled kits. *cough*Revell*cough*… sorry, seasonal allergies… 😜 To get a sense of Airfix, you could try some of their smaller offerings (anything with the product code starting with “A01”), like the Hawker Hurricane I built. The kit itself was only $17.50 Canadian, and had just enough parts to be interesting. There’s also a BF-109, P-51, P-40, A6M-2, FW-190, and Spitfire in this range of kits, and many others I may have missed. Andy

Between everything else going on, I have managed to get a start on my Beaufighter. Construction begins, as usual, with the interior and cockpit areas. The kit features a basic box frame, formed by the "wing spars" and some interior sidewalls, that sits on the cockpit/interior floor. You can see the sparse detail of the kit supplied parts. Originally the pilot's seat mounted on four pegs cast on the forward wing spar (since removed), and the two recesses were to accept the control stick and foot pedals. Otherwise, there's not much else. Comparatively, the CMK resin cockpit features a whole lot more detail: A side-by-side comparison of the side consoles: After a bit of clean up, the replacement pieces fit nicely on the kit supplied framework: I still need to add the seat and control stick, but will do so after painting. Putting the above assembly aside, I then turned to the fuselage interior. CMK supplied two sections of interior paneling that are fixed immediately behind the cockpit, as well as more cockpit console pieces. A little bit of surgery is required, nothing too complex, just the removal of some of the moulded on kit detail. Easily accomplished with a sharp chisel blade in my X-acto knife and some sanding sticks. The CMK instructions are fairly clear as to what needs to be removed, but there is one area they don't mention, the area around the alignment tab. You can see the tab in question at the top of the fuselage. I felt it was easier to cut a small notch in the resin panel than to try to file away the tab. The area won't be visible anyway, so I'm not worried about the overall appearance. A quick overview, once again, highlights the simplicity of the kit details: The starboard side fuselage details have been added as well: Finally a quick dry fit to ensure everything will still assemble correctly: And another quick view inside the cockpit: The CMK detail set is very well designed, and while the interior panels may seem small, once assembled, they are exactly the right size, as no further interior detail will be visible. I will add a little filler to smooth out the cockpit edges, but otherwise I'm happy with the fit of the parts. Next up I'll have to get some paint going on the interior, and finish off the finer cockpit details. Andy

It’s possibly an air dropped depth charge, pre-1941. Andy

That last photo looks like the Sylvan Scale Models kit: https://sylvanscalemodels.com/kits/HO-1082.htm (Might be the N scale version) I have a partially completed one sitting on the shelf. Andy

Glad things (Wings?) worked out for you! Those decals look great. I’ve heard of others restoring old yellowed decals using a UV light (followed by a coating of liquid film as you mentioned earlier). Hopefully the rest of the kit doesn’t cause you any further issues! Andy

You may have to track down a 1:8 scale Jay to go with it…. 😜 Andy

I’m sure for those who remember the “Great Crash”, it felt a little like living the “Vietnam flashback PTSD Chihuahua” meme…. Thanks to the technicians for getting things back up and running. Andy

Deer, rabbits, raccoons… I have to deal with them all. Raccoons are especially hard on corn crops. I was totally wiped out two years ago. I’ve opted for an electric fence, seems to do a good job at deterring them. Andy

You think so? 🤔 I have expanded beyond corn over the last few years. This year I’m planning on growing beets, carrots, cucumbers, peas, tomatoes, watermelons, pumpkins and sunflowers (for fun). The pumpkins tend to go feral, so they need considerable real estate. Andy

You’re welcome! I’m glad I could help! 😁 They seem to have a good selection of different offerings from the same era. Failing the exact set, you could probably cobble together everything you need from one or two of the other sets. Andy

According to yellow wings, they have the decals in stock: https://store.yellow-wingsdecals.com/1-32-decals/32-008-curtiss-bf2c-1-fighter-bomber-vf-5b-uss-ranger-12-95.html Andy

Thanks guys! I forgot to mention, this will also be taking up a bit of my time: I keep a fairly decent sized veggie garden. 😁 The foreground plot is roughly 15 ft by 70 ft, and the smaller (weedier) plot behind is about 12 ft by 40 ft. It started off a couple of years ago with a desire to grow my own sweet corn… and just expanded from there…🙄🤪 Andy

I received a small package in the mail today. It came from overseas, and I was worried it might not have made it. Thankfully Canada Post was correctly able to interpret my address, as it was in European format, but it made it, so I am happy. More on this in a moment. Obviously as per the title, I have decided next to tackle this very nice little Beaufighter kit from Airfix. This particular edition is a 2020 release of a 2015 tooling. I have seen a large number of positive reviews (and build videos) online, so I am looking forward to a largely trouble free build. LPJ models has a pretty extensive build video that's worth checking out. A quick shot of the box art depicting a pair of Beaufighters going after some hapless Nazi shipping (haha). The kit consists of five sprues in the usual grey plastic found in almost all Airfix kits (I think some of their domestic production uses a slightly darker grey), as well as one clear plastic sprue for the canopies and lenses and whatnot. The sprues are pretty much free from flash and other molding defects as far as I could see. Also as per usual, the decals are from Cartograph, so they should be of good quality. There are two variants to choose from when building the kit, and in the case of this release, the variants are dependant on the decal scheme. In the case of this release, the first scheme is for a Beaufighter from 404 squadron RCAF, stationed in Cornwall in June '44. Ostensibly (I'm assuming), to help protect the flank of the invasion. This version has the "normal" nose and lacks the extended filet of the tail fin. The other variant is a post-war version in Portuguese markings which has the "thimble" nose that housed radar equipment, as well as featuring the extended filet on the tail. Although, I don't have a picture, the instructions are up to Airfix's usual standard, clear, concise (and partially coloured). I noted that Airfix credited Terry Higgins for helping with the Beaufighter project, he is the person behind Aviaeology. As if there wasn't enough choices to be made, there are also a few options on fitting out the plane. There are three different choices in armament to select from. The first being a single torpedo (in keeping with the TF designation), as well as two different rocket set ups, a flat "panier" type mounting with the four rockets side by side, as well as a pod type mounting, with the four rockets mounted around a single hard point. And for good measure, an auxiliary fuel tank is included as well. In my case I intend to stick with the supplied decals and go for the RCAF version, just like the box art. Since I didn't get to put rockets on my Typhoon, I get to use them here, instead. Good thing I've had some practice painting invasion stripes, as they are not included in the decal sheet (not that I would have used them anyway), although this time they will be the full stripe, rather than the cut down version. And now for the aftermarket! I had previously purchased the Yahu Models instrument panel to replace the janky kit supplied decal (insert gratuitous eye roll): A simple, yet worthwhile upgrade. Additionally I have managed to secure a few other upgrades from CMK. After my previous rant, I did a little better investigation on the Special Hobbies website and found they offered a cheaper postal option. I was initially a bit confused, as it was with NL Post (which I assumed was the Netherlands postal service, why the heck would they be operating in the Czech Republic(?), but I guess Europe can be weird that way), so anyway after two and a half weeks, a small parcel found its way into my mail box, hooray! First up, the remainder of the cockpit: I will show comparative photos as the build progresses, but the detail in the aftermarket resin is much finer and more complete than what was included in the kit (which isn't bad, per se, but there are better options). The CMK upgrade includes a more complete cockpit floor as well as a proper seat mount and some of the wiring/piping/instruments located immediately behind the pilot. There is also some PE details like seatbelts, the rudder pedals, and another instrument panel, but I likely won't use the last one, since the Yahu one comes pre-painted and assembled. Next up, I will be replacing the exhaust pipes with these cast resin bits. The detail here, again, is much sharper than the kit casting (the hedgehoggy bits are actually sharp and pointy, as opposed to round and lumpy). Finally, the wheels will also be replaced: Just that little bit of extra detail, like the "Dunlop" branding on the sidewalls, that makes things stand out. There is possibly going to be only minimal progress for the next little while, as summer weather and summer chores (and beers, and boating, and BBQ) will take priority over model building. Hopefully I won't wear your patiences too thin! Andy

If you’re not above mixing, this is a screenshot of Tamiya’s BF109. It gives their mix ratio to approximate the colour you may be looking for: The XF series are acrylic, but there are equivalency charts to convert to their lacquer paints if you prefer. Great job so far, can’t wait to see the end result. Andy

A good sign the resin casting was not put under a vacuum after pouring. Without treatment air bubbles can remain trapped in the resin and leave defects as you describe. If the casting is placed in a vacuum chamber after it’s been poured, the air bubbles will be drawn out, resulting in a much cleaner casting. Andy

I saw a similar video from “Model Minutes”: He also made a visit to Airfix HQ: Andy

Great photo! (“Hooman look sad, I bring toys, help hooman happy”). Glad to hear you’re continuing on! Andy

The other method I just thought you may wish to try, if the “chain” is able to be well supported in the frame, use a straight edge and repeatedly score with your hobby knife (alongside the length of the chain) across the tabs holding the links to the fret. A few passes with light pressure should eventually pop the links free. Andy

Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Plastic-Cutting-Tweezers-Jewelry/dp/B01MZ6621X Only perhaps hardened for metal work? I’ve seen a few pricy ones for jewellery makers, but there’s got to be something “good enough” for hobbyists that won’t empty the wallet. Here’s a set designed for electronics: https://www.tdiinternational.com/product-category/hand-tools/tweezers/cutting-tweezers/ Andy

I think there are a few good advantages to relocating to Kingston. Primarily the location. The town is right on Hwy 401 (the main road between Toronto and Montreal), so it’s much easier to access for a lot more people. The Keewatin will be part of an actual museum (which, I think, has a couple of other vessels in its collection), rather than a random artifact at a small port few outside the area have ever heard of (although to be fair, Port McNicoll is closely tied to the ship’s history). There are also a large number of other museums and places of interest in the immediate area, so people not necessarily drawn to maritime history might be interested in visiting (“Hey, there’s this other museum just down the road, let’s check it out”). And, for what it’s worth, there is easier access to dry dock facilities in either Hamilton or Port Weller, when necessary. Although the ship should be good for a while, given that I’m led to understand she will be dry docked in Port Weller prior to being put on display, (attention people in the Niagara/Welland/St Catharines area(s), there will be photo opportunities!). Andy

But if you did, you wouldn’t have the extra parts for your “spare parts” stash! I have hoards of lost-wax and PE brass, plastic, resin, and laser cut wood fittings and whatnot from my model railway efforts (not to mention a “scrapyard” full of locomotives and rolling stock). All from either projects that didn’t quite work out or from ideas for future projects that haven’t yet materialized. I could probably restore and super detail one or two of those donor locomotives without spending another penny (provided I find the right inspirational subject matter). You’ll find a good home for those seats! Andy