realworkingsailor

Oh yes, not to worry! 😁
 
Any of the pellet-y stuff  (white or whatever colour) is only good for coffee cups. I’ve been around the pink board in a model railway situation and it seemed to work well enough (but yeah, it didn’t take impacts very well). A layer of hydrocal plaster on top can hide a lot of incidental divots.
 
Andy

So I've been kicking around this diorama idea since I started working on my Vickers Wellington bomber. Although I haven't yet begun construction of the diorama, I've been busy messing around building the little detail bits that will add to my fictional scene.
 
Airfix provides a couple of useful kits for this purpose. The largest being their WW2 RAF Bomber Resupply kit, which I picked up back in November last year. This kit includes a variety of appropriate vehicles and other paraphernalia that would have been right found on many airfields. I have been slowly picking away at building these elements over the last little while. I don't have any in-progress shots as I found this kit a bit of an annoying one to build. I can't quite put my finger on why I feel that way about this particular kit, but there it is. It's not like it was particularly challenging to build, it is somewhat repetitive (hand painting the tyres on 32 different wheels), maybe that's why it begin to feel like more of a grind.... but I am happy with the results.
 
Over a year ago, I also bought a set of RAF figures, also from Airfix). I will be using these to populate my scene as well as a couple of the vehicles. They are marked as being 1/76 scale, but they don't seem to be out of proportion for the 1/72 vehicles.
 

 
I had some fun before Christmas painting this gang of miscreants. Not sure how many I'm actually going to use, but I feel I have a nice selection to choose from. For whatever reason, they were moulded in a soft acetyl plastic. It was a bit of a pain to remove the flash, and although the paint seems to have adhered, it won't stand up to too much abuse.
 
The first vehicle in the bomber resupply set is a Bedford MW:
 

 
The kit comes with provisions to build the Bedford as either the MWD cargo version or the MWC water carrier (some people think it is a fuel truck, but it is not). I elected to build the cargo version, as the water truck was for refilling the radiators of liquid cooled engines (Merlins, or Napier-Sabers). Since my bomber has a nice set of air-cooled Bristol Pegasus radials, the water truck was pointless.
 
The next vehicle in the kit is a 12Hp Austin Utility (Tilly):
 

 
Another pretty straight forward vehicle. I performed some surgery on one of the Airfix figures, so I could show the Tilly being "driven". My Tilly doesn't exactly follow the Airfix prescribed paint scheme, but I think it still looks good.
 
Following the Tilly is a tractor/tug:
 
 
 
The kit tractor is a David Brown VIG1, but I made some non-prototypical modifications. I thought the front fenders on the VIG1 looked kinda hokey, so I cut them off to make my tractor look more tractor-ish with the open front wheels. The kit also supplies parts for a recovery winch and anchor spades, but I left those parts off as my tractor will only be hauling bomb trolleys. I suppose I could have hunted around for a 1/72 Fordson. But I'm going with my version. As the tractor was an open vehicle, a figure also had to be surgically modified to fit. He kind of looks like he's driving, although he's a bit casual looking, leaning back staring up at the sky.
 
Speaking of bomb trolleys, the kit provides 3:
 

 
There are two Type "C" trolleys. I built these as per the instructions. Nothing too fancy.
 
The remaining kit supplied trolley is a Type "D". This trolley was designed to carry the HC 4000lb and 8000lb bombs, both of which are too big (and too late) for my Wellington (the later Wellington Mk III and Mk X could carry the 4000lb "Cookie", but that required changes to the internal framing of the bomb bay). In most photos I've seen of Wellingtons being re-armed in the earlier part of the war, the bombs were hauled on a Type "B" trolley. This consisted of a suspended centre beam with the bomb cradles sticking out like ribs. To be able to show a more complete load out for my Wellington, I decided to try my luck at scratch building one of these types of trolleys:
 

 
I found a few useful photos on the internet to help get the basic structure. I did keep a couple of parts from the Type "D" trolley, the front and rear axles, the wheels and the draw bar, the rest was styrene strip and a little bit of brass wire.
 

 
There is a fair selection of other bombs included in the set I have yet to add the decals to these yet. The grey boxes are Small Bomb Containers, these contained the incendiary (thermite) bombs used by the RAF.
 
Getting back to the maintenance side of things, the last large "vehicle" is a 450 gallon Brockhouse bowser:
 

 
For reasons I can't fathom, Airfix supplied decals for this as a lube oil bowser (boring). I would have much rather seen this as a fuel bowser instead. These were typically marked with "100 Octane" in large white letters on each side (rather than "OIL" stencilled on one end). As I wanted a fuel bowser, I left the "OIL" stencil off, but snagged the roundels from the Bedford water carrier that I didn't need. 
 
The final item build is this rather spindly maintenance tower:
 

 
It will fit nicely beside the engine that I left open to view on my Wellington.
 
For the rest, there is an assortment of other items like oil drums, fuel canisters, tool boxes, chocks, that will be added later when things get going. I will revisit this log when I finally get underway with building my diorama. I need to purchase some scenery materials as well as a base. I am planning to build on a slab of 2" thick insulation foam. This is common in the model railroad community, as it provides a lightweight, stable substrate.
 
 
 
Andy
 
 
 

Well, I finished the cockpit flooring and start with the detail painting of the cockpit area now. 
The wood finished cockpit floor was covered with two layers of chipping fluid, which I used for the firs time. I cannot see, where it performs better than hairspray, which I used successful multiple times, beside the smell.
After drying, I spray Nato black onto the floor, slightly mottled and as much, that the woodgrain was barely visible.
 

 
Next was the abrasion of Nato black with different tools, a stiff pointed brush, a fiber eraser, a toothpick and tweezers after dampening the area. I emphasized the wear, where boots might have scratched the color off, around the seats and close to the sliding tunnel for the crew.
That is where I am right now, but I guess, the apparently heavy used look will be a bit more restrained through adding lots of painted details and decals and seat belts.
 

 

 
Cheers Rob

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

From what I’ve been able to dig up, the 3rd Anti Tank didn’t receive their Archers until much later in the War. Photos of them after D-day show them using American M-10s or Universal (Bren) Carriers towing 6 pounders.

As for when they may have crossed paths, the most plausible would be Operation Totalize, Aug 7 - 10 1944. In that operation 2nd Can Infantry Div And British 51st H Infantry Div broke out over Verrieres ridge along the Caen-Falaise highway.
 
And from the looks of it, Tamiya really botched the instructions as 2nd Anti Tank RCA was attached to 2nd Can Infantry Div, not 3rd. So far all that means that the Division identifier on the Archer should be a gold maple leaf on a blue background as opposed to a gold maple leaf on a grey background.
 
Andy

Regarding the 2nd or 3rd Anti-tank, it’s possible that an earlier issue of the kit contained markings for the latter, they just neglected to update that part of the instructions.
 
And just to note regarding your figures, the Canadian uniforms, while they followed the same pattern as the British ones, the material was more of a greenish colour. If you do a couple of google searches for Canadian or British battledress there are lots of colour photo examples.

Anyway, can’t wait to see this build!
 
Andy

Post One Hundred and Forty-five
 
Stern Lanterns
A pair of Resin lanterns are provided in the kit with Brass etch brackets. Pre-cut acetate glazing that only requires folding to shape, completes the package.
Beautifully crafted, but my initial impression was that they looked a tad on the small size, but I needed to see them on the model.

3685
The plan is used to get the line of the crank.

3686
Assembly is simple, the tricky part if it can be called that, is fitting the ironwork to the stern gallery, particularly when you have lost track of the fixing holes.🙄

3688
I found it easier to use longer lengths of 0.8mm brass wire to form and fit the cranks.

3690
The only addition I made are fixing plates to the stern.
Apart from that I had to file the bottom of the clear glazing a tad to allow the lantern tops to sit down on the framing.

3694
Is my initial impression that they may be a little undersized borne out?
Perhaps not when compared to the contemporary model of Amazon below.

Amazon Stern
I could not find original records relating the ships lantern sizes by rate, and of course I’m not privy to the information used as a basis for the ‘Indy’ Lanterns.
 
I did check out relative sizes from my available sources, and for what it’s worth this is what I gleaned.
 
Victory - side lantern 57½” o/a height (22.8mm at 1:64 scale)
 
Bellona – 62½” o/a height (24.8mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.
 
Pandora – 40¼” o/a height (16.0mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.
 
Leopard  (50 gun ship 1790) - 53” o/a height (21mm at 1:64) Scale drawing John McKay from The 50-Gun Ship.
 
Sixth rate sloop– 51” o/a height (20.25mm at 1:64) scale drawing FFM Sixth rate book from a reconstruction.
 
Indefatigable – 44” o/a height (17.5mm at 1:64 scale) - actual kit fitting.
 
Another option is the exquisite Boxwood lantern 3/16th (1:64) scale from Syren.
This measures 7/8th" (22.25mm) which equates to a 56” o/a height.

1827
I used this on my Pegasus build, and I think it is a viable option for ‘Indy’.
 

3704
On balance I think I will stick with the kit version.

3702

3697
Onwards,
 
B.E.
16/02/2024
 

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

I’m not sure if the actual size of the parts, but it could be that the number of holes didn’t lend itself well to the injection moulding process. They may had had them to begin with, but the test shots may have had a high rejection rate.
 
Andy

Looks like fun, count me in.
 
Although he’s just started, @AJohnson is working on the 1:24 Typhoon, and he’s built a few other nice Airfix kits on here too, you may wish to check out his builds.
 
Andy
 
 

Andy,
 
That's a good picture and I have seen it. It tells a reasonably peaceful story.
 
The slight issue with the Tamya Archer is that the three man crew are in the middle of firing off shells. I have toyed with maybe re-modelling them in to more passive positions but that could be a hassle.
 
So I need to come up with a scenario where the Archer is engaging the enemy, but with some kind of side story(s) and in an interesting setting.
 
I do have some 'brick wall' left over from the Churchill build, and Tamiya's Oil Drum and Jerry Can kit. ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-35026-Jerry-Cans-Scale/dp/B000WNCDLO )  And a decent amount of hedge material, grass etc. Also,  I have a thought about getting some model critters that one would see in the countryside.
 
Anyway, plenty time to get my head round this, but any further thoughts....then keep 'em coming.
 
Thanks,
 
Richard

Thanks everyone for the likes and comments. 
 
Rob - great advice - I have been test fitting the fuselage halves as I add parts to the cockpit and am optimistic that it will come together OK. The Greek color scheme is neat - another nice variation from the usual olive drab and tan DH9 colors.
 
Progress continues.  I'm working on the seatbelts and engine- more pictures soon. I'm not much into weathering.  Plane should look like it is ready for its first flight when done.

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

Thanks Rusty...
 
Just a small update...
 
Now that the aft platforms are completed it made sense to plank the great cabin next.   First thing to do was add the laser cut deck clamps.   These have notches cut for the qdeck beams.   You can see the deck clamp added below.   The aft side needs to be beveled to fit flush against the transom.   The forward side is left a bit long so you can trim it to fit neatly in place.  That forward-most beam notch is a bit longer to give us some wiggle room later for the placement of that beam.  In addition before gluing it in...you must shape where the qbadge window is.  Sand the shape into the bottom edge of the deck clamp as shown.  Because it could be in a slightly different position model-to-model, this detail is not laser cut into the deck clamp.
 
NOTE the red arrow.   The bottom of the notch in the clamp should be even with the top of the window or even slightly higher.  But it should not be below the top edge of the windows.   If it is, you should make adjustments before gluing it onto the model.  In addition, the bottom of these beam notches should NOT be altered.  However, when you test fit the beams and find you need to make adjustments, you can absolutely enlarge the notches on the sides and top for a better fit.   Just carefully chisel out some of the deck clamp or the planking above it to accommodate your beams.  

 
Next we will plank the inboard side of the great cabin.   I am sure most of you could do this without any issues, but to help make it easier, there is a template on the plans.  See below.
This should make it easier to cut each strake with the appropriate tapers.  There are six strakes.  I highly recommend that these planks be cut from a 3/64" sheet as they are somewhat wide at the stern.   Plus they are pretty much all drawn out for you.  I will also add that you may have to make small adjustments because depending on where you aft platform ended up , you may have a slightly different area of space.  Adjust the template accordingly and cut your planks to fit.  Again they are 3/64" thick.
 

Below shows the cabin planked inboard.  I carefully cut around that window and did simulate caulking for the plank seams.  I just used full length planks rather than show any possible butt joints.  They wont be seen anyway.  Note the forward edge of the planking runs down the FORWARD edge of the hull frame.  Keep the forward esge nice and neat right down the edge of that hull frame.
 
You might see some laser cut qdeck beams in that picture as well.  They are just laying on the lower platform.  Although we wont be adding them just yet, it will be to our benefit to have them handy while we do the next steps of fitting out the cabin benches and rudder trunk details.  The laser char was removed from the deck beams and they were cut to length.  It takes some practice on the first few to get the length correct so they sit nicely in those notches.  But dont throw it away if you cut it too short.  Just use it for the next shorter beam and work from the forward side aft when doing this.
 

 
Test fitting the qdeck beams....none are glued in as I mentioned.  Note the extra space on the first beam at the deck clamp notch.   This will let us move it around where needed when we start work on the bulkheads there.  If any of you are having a problem slipping the beams into those notches, you could easily add  another strip of say 1/8 x 1/32 cedar following the bottom of the notches and it would be fine.  I did not find the need to do that however.  But you might find it easier if there was a second layer that stood proud of the planking a bit to rest your beams on.  Builder's choice...
 

How about this:
 

 
Lots of interesting pictures of QF 17 pounder guns here, including numerous pictures of Archers: https://www.silverhawkauthor.com/post/17-pounder-qf-anti-tank-gun

 
Andy

Well, its been a slow start after completing the Loarre castle. Cleaning a years worth of sanding dust off the work bench and pretty much everything else in the garage took some time. Then its been difficult deciding where to start again. I had lots of ideas and several boxes were opened and put away again. I wanted to build a ship but also wanted something relatively short but interesting with some PE to rehabilitate myself. The final choice was the Mirage Flower Class corvettes

The initial choice was HMS Zinnia and I got as far as assembling the hull before realising this was a relatively early Flower and didn't have the later style bridge so down came HMS Spirea and I started again. Mirage make four Flower kits and it looks like they all share the same hull but have different decks, superstructure and details. Zinnia was an early Flower but I can't determine whether she should have had a short forecastle or not. I think its just about possible she could have been built to the long forecastle standard. She was commissioned in April 1941 and sunk in August 1941 so she certainly was never refitted

The kits look quite good although there are some annoying placements of the sprue gates on the hull halves requiring some clean up before the deck can be fitted.

Curiously Zinnias hull was horrible to fit together and adding the aft deck was even worse. Spirea was much better and only a tiny mount of putty was needed to smooth it out.
 
Otherwise there are some lovely delicate details like the galley stove pipe and some clunky parts too. I am planning to use the White Ensign PE set as appropriate and some PE or resin substitutes for the armament.


I've been pondering the build order, trying to decide what to assemble before the basic painting (its been a while). I think the replacement PE bridge, radar and gun tub / bandstand will be too delicate to stand a lot of handling so I decided to add the basic plastic superstructure to the deck and paint the hull first and then the deck and then follow with the superstructure and details. I may paint myself into a corner!
 
So, the two hulls ready for primer. Spirea in front. This is my first attempt at 1/350 scale so some new techniques for me. I drilled out the portholes and the engine room ports and opened out the anchor fairleads

Then some Mig One Shot black primer
 

From here on I plan to concentrate on Spirea and work Zinnia if there is a pause. Its going to be too hard to get the wrong stuff on the wrong hull otherwise
I masked the hull and added the red bilge and then sprayed the decks

Next up some serious masking of the deck, paint the wooden deck sections and dip into the PE
 
My ambition for one of the models is a diorama (I can't seem to break the habit - but it will only be a small one - honest)
 
Here is the tease
 

This video has motivated me and I have had the photo in mind since building the 1/48 scale Campanula
 
Thanks for looking in. 
 
Alan

I’m not sure if the actual size of the parts, but it could be that the number of holes didn’t lend itself well to the injection moulding process. They may had had them to begin with, but the test shots may have had a high rejection rate.
 
Andy

Looks like fun, count me in.
 
Although he’s just started, @AJohnson is working on the 1:24 Typhoon, and he’s built a few other nice Airfix kits on here too, you may wish to check out his builds.
 
Andy
 
 

So lots of hand painting of the various cockpit items this evening. There is loads of nice detail in this kit I have to say. The cockpit panels are glossed as well so I'll have a go at some light weathering next before assembling it all together.

Update to show the progress so far on the hull.  I wanted to show someone looking at the model where the nominal waterline would be ( as the white goes up to the underside of the wale) and so wanted to add some indication of waterline fouling.
 
This has been a bit of Trial and error! Weathering is always subjective in model kits and striking the right balance between realism and something that just isn't "nice" to look at is difficult.  So having built up some washes and grunge/fouling, I have decided to knock it back and maybe with a bit of judicial sanding away of the top coat reveal a little more waterline fouling, but I'll take it steady.  Once fully hardened it will need a flatting with very fine abrasive and old towelling to make the surface clean again, macro photography shows all that up nicely! 😣
 
Also added a few rudder details, like the rudder coat and ring as shown in the plans and rudder chain.