realworkingsailor

This installment will also cover a wide area of work. The first is the quarter deck, which included a limited amount of planking; the hatches and gratings; the companionway ladder and railing; the skylight; the upper capstan; the breastwork; and various eyebolts.
 
Next was the stern, which included the transom; mounting of the rudder with it's hardware and chains; the rudder head housing, tiller, wheel and rigging; and the quarter badges. The kit transom didn't come close to that shown in TFFM, so I chose to scratch build something at  least similar to the book. The same was true for the quarter badges. With some work, I was able to use the kit's lantern parts and I also used the kit's castings, with some modification, for the transom carvings.
 
I then moved on to adding the main and mizzen channels, gun port lids, moldings, timberheads and blocks, swivel gun mounts and the quarter deck rail.
 
After that, I moved forward to do the forecastle. This included the catheads, some planking, the hatches and gratings, the belfry and breastwork, the galley cowl, the fore jeer and topsail sheet bitts and various eyebolts.
 
Lastly, I made and installed the fore timberheads and blocks, the fore channels, the fore swivel gun mounts and more moldings.
 
Bob

Hey, I figure for a change everyone is offerring the same advice. PIN EM. Thanks for the answers, I guess tonight, inbetween making the masts, I will remove all my pin racks and channels and then get them pinned to the hull properly!
 
See once again, doing something for the third time before I finally get it right. NOpe, that Syren is staying right in her box until I am sure I am up to the challenge she will present!

Robbyn.. to really secure your channels, no matter which glue you use, it's best to add some pins. Basically take the head off a brass nail, and drill a hole in the inside edge of the channel. Glue the pin in the hole with the pointy end out. Do that 2 or 3 (or more, depends on the size of the channel) times. Line up the channel and press firmly enough to the hull of your ship to make a little dimple, then drill another hole, at the dimples in the hull, to accept the pins. Doing that will ensure that your channles are strong enough to withstand any pressure from rigging.
 
Andy

I agree with Augie... take all the time you need... no rush just because we're all nipping at your heels like a pack of crazed chihuahuas
 
Andy

I agree with Augie... take all the time you need... no rush just because we're all nipping at your heels like a pack of crazed chihuahuas
 
Andy

The panels were toned down with a clear matt. A small amount of shading was applied to edge with an airbrush. A dilute dark grey/black along the door panel lines and sides. A waterway on 2mm strip was added to the bottom as per AOTS and some of those brass nails in every kit that I never use made the door handles. A touch of class for the captain!
 

 
After a bit of cutting a fiddling with the bulwark edges the false poop deck was added.
 

It's here! It's here! I can't believe it's here!!!
And it is soooo beautiful!!! lots and lots of sticks and string to play with
Thank you so much Chuck for creating the Syren!

First planking 
I have started the first planking, and the first plank to be laid lines up with the top, of the top deck, as mentioned before at frame 13 the cross beam is to high so I allowed for this also at the bow the balsa fillers had pushed up the ply deck about the width of the ply so I also allowed for this by setting the first plank that width low. One other problem is that on some of the frames dip in one side, so a filler strip needed to be glued to the frame to counter this, it is not a frame misalignment problem as no reduction of the frames were needed on the other side, and visa versa, I tacked a plank on both sides before gluing up to check I had a nice even curve the same both sides with no dips or humps, two planks a side have now been attached the rest to do, I also removed the top deck.  
 
First plank on shows high deck beam frame 13

 
 
 
 
shows same curve both sides with frame 16 reduced and 15 packed out
 

 
 
 
First two rows of planking on

Okay, i have straightened out the deck furniture and made sure everything is now centered and straight on the keel line, and I made new pin racks so I could put the proper distance between the belaying pins.
 
Unless someone sees anything else I need to fix or improve speak now please before I start on the masts and the rigging.
 

John Thanks.
 
Back at the block Factory, A long time ago I purchased a small board  of Lemonwood or Degame to make some wagon type wheels, the blanks were cut but the wheels never got made. I re-cut the small curved sections to use for blocks. the wood is quite hard and takes a fine polish it is similar in texture to Boxwood but a little darker. I wont be using this many double blocks, after shaping the profile I will cut a number of them in half to make single blocks like the ones on the right.
 

 
and a metric rule
 

 
The big blocks are Lemonwood the small ones in the front are Boxwood
 
I also worked on a maple one with a metal frame
 

 
The pin is 3/32 in diameter
 

 
the new block attached with yesterday's shackle
 

 

 
 
Michael
 
 

I'm just glad my admiral is a good egg about things..........we don't argue,  so I have to do things to keep it lively   LOL!

Popeye.... cattle prods get a much more interesting reaction...  

Just make sure you have a planned escape route when you do....
 
 
Oh yeah...
 
Keep your head down when you run.... something might get hurled in your direction too....
 

 
Andy

OK ! Soldering.
 
I am an electrical fitter, I have made thousands of solder joints with copper and 60/40 resin cored solder.
 
Forget silver solder for non load bearing joints, you don't need it and it may require specialised heating implements and flux.
 
Copper is made to be soldered with 60/40 resin cored, they go together like peas in a pod.
 
Use a mains powered iron, 25watt should be good.
 
MAKE DAMN SURE THE COPPER IS CLEAN!!!!
I use wet and dry sanding paper to make it shiny and don't touch it where you are going to solder.
 
Do not set it up on a wooden board unless you are well and truly used to doing it as if you take too long the wood will start to burn and the smoke will wreck the joint.
 
DO put solder on the iron first, just a little, this increases the contact area between the iron and the job and the heat transfer is much more efficient. For small jobs you may find the initial blob of solder on the iron is sufficient, you will see it flow onto the joint when the job is hot enough.
 
Solder flows to heat so if you need to add more to the joint then do so on the edge of the joint and it will flow in.
 
If I was doing those joints I would use a wood base but use a household tile and after sanding the copper clean bend the "U" with tools and leave long ends on it so you can tape it down. Then bend a very short right angle into the shaft part and tape it down so the "L" is in place against the "U" The reason for the "L" is to give more contact area to the joint.
 
Meanwhile the iron has been getting hot.
 
Touch the solder to the iron and if it melts quickly the iron is hot enough, touch the solder carrying face of the iron to the job and hold until you see the solder flow. You can add more and if it only flows to such an extent that the blob has ceased to be a blob and started to flow but wont spread then definately touch a bit more solder onto the joint because that will add flux and help the solder flow.
 
If you get the joint hot enough then when you remove the iron I would drag it down the shaft and this will thin the excess solder down along the shaft rather than leaving a huge blob. It is worth noting that solder has a high lead content so use it in a well ventilated area but more interestingly to modellers, it can be trimmed with a sharp knife. ROBBYN, BE VEWY, VEWY CAREFUL
 
I made this using an electric iron as well as a larger gas heated iron, it was 50/50 from memmory, resin cored solder.

 
Fitted to a 3.5Kg vehicle, I can lift the car by the bullbar and it is brass, not copper, copper is easier to solder.

very nice, well done
 
if this was a modern vessels, each of the panels would have a separate health and safety poster on it, like mind the mortar pit, beware of death - sort of thing

I couldn't wait and had to install them to see how it looks. At least in here will be safer while the oil dries. It's a pretty thin mix with the humbrol and thinners should be done overnight. . I've had to wait weeks in the past for oils to dry on some projects.
 

 
And here's a shot of His majesty's bomb vessel Granado in her current state of disrepair. Only other recent additions are the main hatch ring bolts, hole for the main mast and stern fascia, which I'll post a pic of when I head back down that again soon.
 

I was quite enthused after painting that test panel and did something unusual for me and worked on the ship in the evening. I usually only stick to daylight hours in the weekend but with my better half at work and the kids tucked in bed I continued on with the rest of the panels using the method described earlier.
 
Here's the basic shape painted on each panel in humbrol 81.
 

 
Now the shadows added with a dash of raw umber and yellow.
 

 
Now the highlights with the yellow and white mixed together bringing the lot to life. A better brush probably would have given some better results but that will do me. Colouring might be a little difficult to judge under these kitchen halogens so I'll see what it looks like in the morning. They will need some matt overcoat and possibly a fine spray of a very light and dilute grey or similar through the airbrush to tone the colours down a shade and blend the yellow and blue slightly. Just a little something to take the edge off doc!
 

I've said it before, and I'll say it again.... check model railroad suppliers. "O" Scale is 1:48. You may not find exactly what you need, but you may have some luck locating "blanks" you can "surgically" alter to suit your needs.
 
For anyone else browsing this thread:
 
"G" Scale:  1:22.5, 1:29 and 1:32
"O" Scale: 1:48
"S" Scale: 1:64
"OO" Scale: (Varies Slightly between USA And Britain) Most common is 1:76
"HO" Scale: 1:87.1
"TT" Scale: 1:120 (Rare, hard to find)
"N" Scale: 1:160
"Z" Scale: 1:220
 
Scale people are available in all these scales. Some work may be required to make them period appropriate.
 
Mods: is it possible to make a permanent note of that for people who are looking for figures?
 
Andy

Hi Andy, checking in since I was in the neighborhood, the other thread of build logs. The last photographs look great, As I was perusing the image it occurred to me that I am not the only one who gets so wrapped up in the task at hand the the space on the dockyard gets smaller and smaller until there is no room to move. Then one makes a resolution to be better organized and......... well you know the rest of the story.
 
Michael

Hi and congrats on the moderator status.
 
Andy is correct about soldering, it's all about the heat, you must get both pieces to the same temp, then the solder will just wick ( suck in ) correctly.
I would just say practice practice practice, I've been an electrical engineer for more than 20 years and still on tiny modeling stuff I struggle, give me 20 gauge I it's perfect.
As I always say in this hobby, it's all practice.
 
Ben

Pretty sweet Augie!
 
No more schooner for you...
 
Andy

We've got to keep a causalty count around here... might be a bit staggering....
 
Andy

I've seen it sold in bottles, for a better price than the rattle cans, but not that often....
 
Andy

First off, you need to clean the metal, get rid of any residual oils leftover from the molding process and any contaminants from handling (mild dishsoap works well enough, rinse afterwards). Leave everything to dry thoroughly and don't handle the parts with your bare hands. As for paint, I would recommend that whatever you choose, first start with a primer. I'm a fan of Tamiya, myself, as it will go well with just about any type of paint, acrylic, laquer or enamel. The tamiya primer is dry enough within an hour or so, so you can paint overtop pretty quickly.
 
Let your paint dry thoroughly, then put a coat of sealant, like Testor's Glosscote, or Dullcote, to protect the paint. This will make it less prone to chipping, or wearing off corners etc if you need to handle the items.
 
Andy

First off, you need to clean the metal, get rid of any residual oils leftover from the molding process and any contaminants from handling (mild dishsoap works well enough, rinse afterwards). Leave everything to dry thoroughly and don't handle the parts with your bare hands. As for paint, I would recommend that whatever you choose, first start with a primer. I'm a fan of Tamiya, myself, as it will go well with just about any type of paint, acrylic, laquer or enamel. The tamiya primer is dry enough within an hour or so, so you can paint overtop pretty quickly.
 
Let your paint dry thoroughly, then put a coat of sealant, like Testor's Glosscote, or Dullcote, to protect the paint. This will make it less prone to chipping, or wearing off corners etc if you need to handle the items.
 
Andy