jaerschen

The hance work, with their volute scrolls, always captures my attention on my visits to the Naval Academy Museum in Annapolis. Your illustration is brilliant. Have fun turning it into reality!
 
Photo from one of my favorite models Royal George, 1715.
 

I'm with Dirk

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 90 – Main Deck Framing 1
 
Again, many thanks for all the nice comments and "likes."
 
In the first picture, the breast hook between the middle and main decks has been installed and the main deck hook is being fitted.  The main deck is the weather deck aft to the break at the beginning of the poop.  The forward section is covered by the forecastle.
 

 
I made the deck hook in two pieces to save on wood and was not too particular about the way the pieces are joined since this will all be covered by decking and the forecastle.  The side planking treenails in the picture have not been sanded off yet.
 
The first major task on the main deck framing was to make the beams.  The full set is shown in the next picture.
 

 
I have described the method for cutting out these rounded up beams in previous posts.  It is very fast and very accurate.  The set shown were made in less than two hours starting with a 2” thick block of Castelo.  The process, including tools and fixtures, was fully described in Naiad, Vol II.
 
In the next picture the beams have been cut to size, fitted and pinned in place.
 

 
Most of these beams are 15” wide except for those at the mast partners (17”) and those nears the ends (12”).  All are 12” deep.  On the original ship they were hard pine – as were all the beams and much else.  Frames were white oak and most of the knees and hooks white or live oak.
 
The next step was to mark the centerline on each beam.  The next picture shows the last and easiest step in the process that begins with a string line between pins on the stem and sternpost.
 

 
Although this process was done for every deck so far, I was a bit tense about the string line falling equidistant between the outside of the frames at each point.  It is getting a bit late in the day to fix any problems with this.  Misalignments would be very visible on this deck and could create a nightmare when the masts are installed.  The mast partners on the main deck must be plumb with the mast steps on the keel and also come through the center of the deck.  Fortunately, the centerline was well centered with only very minor remediation, so I am now in a more relaxed state.  After a substantial amount of checking, the pencil line drawn above was converted into a permanent scribed line on each beam. 
 
In the next picture the locations of all the carling and header scores are being marked out while the beams are still pinned in place. 
 

 
The distances were marked out from the centerline with dividers.  In the picture a piece of carling stock is being used to mark both sides of the scores.
 
In the next picture the setting of beams has begun at the bow.
 

 
The first very short beam will be secured only with lodging knees.  The hanging knees with their simulated bolts have been installed on the second beam.  The third beam has been glued and pinned to the clamps.
 
In the last picture the third beam - with its hanging knees and pillar - has been installed. 
 

 
The next beam has been glued to the clamps and frames.  All of the scores in the beams are cut at the bench by hand before the beams are set – from the marks made previously.  Carlings are installed progressively after the knees and pillar on each beam.
 
A period of repetitive work will follow.  Most of the time doing this is spent making the hanging knees and fitting them under the beams.  Fortunately, some preparation work in this framing for main deck facilities will break some of the routine.  So, three down, thirty-one to go.
 
Ed

One could think you be a sailmaker Nils. Excellent work.

And here I go again.
 
Wanted to do something easy for once ...
 
... took some sheet and made the lids for the stern ports ...
 
... rememberd not to do a rabbet on all sides ...
 
... after having done it si cured it with 05 mm x 5 mm Evergreen.
 

 
Was happy mac to finally use some of my etch parts on my own build :-)
 
Made 0,7 mm ringlets ...
 

 
... mounted them on the eyebolts, blackened them, mounted them , painted the lids ...
 

 
... fixed them on the appropriate place and put the lanyards.
 

 
And what can one already see on the picture? Break, Intermezzo, short review
 
Sometimes in spring 2011 (it was April 11., at 14.41 o´clock) I pimped my rudder ...
 

 
... but what has it to do with my actual build?
 
Ok, here we go. Nicely into the groove, I wanted to do the rudder pendants. Realised that the eyebolt to hold them - fixed somehow years ago and now hidden underneath the port lid and therefor inaccessible - and replaced it beside the port on stemwards. Fixed the pendants as seen on the Vic in P., taking care that the sweep of the rudder is not limited by it ...
 

 
... und gleich den fehlenden oberen Beschlag des oberen Fingerlings entdeckt und ergänzt.
 

 
 
One can guess, troubles were already waiting to strike!
 
If one looks close, one can see three things: Why is the pendant dragging the waters? Why is the end of the tiller pointing out that far? And why did me stupid make the rudder blade that high for that now canvas cover can be fixed ?!?
 
Questions over questions ...
 
If you look at the picture before the intermezzo, one can see already the shortened tiller - no easy task as the rudder cant be taken out any more and is only hanging on the fable pintles - and also the rudder blade was shortened by some 5 mm - one can guess also no easy task as the rudder cant be taken out any more and is only hanging on the fable pintles.
 
Both me and the model survived and the pendants were fixed with some freshly repositioned eyebolts as seen on contemporary models and also as described by Lee.
 
The ropes leading to the channels are not the real ones yet - those should have 11 inch (after Steel) as they should hold some things in case of emergency. By the way the same size as the buoy rope!
 

 
So are these enough hints for the question?
 
Cheers, DAniel

Good afternoon everyone
 
After the excitement of the new build coming up, it was back to the Victory and the hammock netting, 
 
the build as stated before will be in a diorama setting, so the used look continues to apply (lol my excuse for totally getting it all wrong - and looking shabby)
 
some of the netting looks like it needs doing again - but for now i am happy
 
 

Hello Friends,

today I show some news of my little naval shipyards.
In the quarter galleries were still glued the window. The tiny windows were made ​​of acrylic glass. I have fixed this with Micro Kristal Klear.
As a consequence I had to install wooden strips on the quarter galleries yet. These are just decoration.
      Soon it continues here again.

Hi All,
 
When starting the planking I wondered about the waste, or maybe better put, the amount of wood needed
to plank the hull in this manner. I started with a 2" x 18" piece of wood and I was able to cut all the spilied
planks for both sides and still had wood left over. I was very pleased with this.
 
Now onto my impression of this style of planking a hull. In the words of my sweet granddaughter
.......OMG........ though time consuming it was soooooo much easier to lay the planks. No twisting and
bending and forcing them into place.
 
Here are pictures of both side rough sanded. Once the entire hull has been planked I will progressively
sand it down to 400 grit and then seal with wipe on poly.
 

 

 
On to the second belts!

Alan, Cog, I turned the fittings on my lathe, added knurls to finish them off and soldered them to the bars.
 

 
Cabrapente, thats I nice little tool, I prefer to drill all holes manually as this gives far greater control and precision.
 

 
Remco
 

A long overdue update....... I was too busy making decals and flags
 
I planked the port side from the Sheer strake up, this is all the planking I will do on this side except some minor parts I need for the rigging. Next up tree nailing the lot.... 
 

 

 

 
Also made new brass knobs on the clamps, as it turned out the wooden ones didn't hold up after I reenforced the bars with nuts.
 

 
Remco

My Pandora book shows one piece deck beams from the bow back to about one fourth the length of the ship. The deck beams at the stern are also one piece about one fourth of the way forward. The center half is all two piece notched together.

I founds this site on the interweb. Thought it was interesting and provides a starting point for more research on this vessel:
 
http://threedecks.org/index.php?display_type=show_ship&id=7215
 
Richard

After the second side entry port here another "unfinished business": One of the 4 rows of draughtmarks was still missing.
 
After some fights with the other rows I tried  a new way ...
 
... glued the parts face down on both sided tape ...
 
 
 
.. and sprayed the back with spray glue. Then cut loose ...
 

 
... flipped up and grabbed with pliers (no tweezers!) ...
 

 
... placed it and pressed in place with some tweezers. 
 

 
Still can be moved around and be turned in peace and quiet ...
 

 
...and applied some very thin CA with a pointed wooden stick for permanent fixation. 
 
Better result than the other ones and in record time and no part flew int nirvana :-)
 

 
XXXDAn

..... continued.
 
I've finally come to making the actual rigging .
 
Collars
 
First step was to make the Collars for the hearts. These are Served for their entire length, so my new Domanov Serving Machine got it's first run :
 

 

 
For the serving line I used Quilting Thread, which is made from cotton with a polyester coating. It has no fuzzies at all, and is quite easy to work with. It also has no "rope definition", but at this scale that's not noticeable.
 
I used my vise to hold the eye and turned the excess serving line around the main line to make a very neat fake splice :
 

 
A couple of hearts with their strops. The larger is for the Forestay and has a double strop (one still to fit). The smaller is for one of the Bobstays :
 

 
A bobstay collar lashed to the bowsprit :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Brian and Pat.
 
Hearts
 
The standing rigging for the bowsprit requires a number of Hearts, both open and closed. I made these from English Box in the following manner. First cut the groove for the strop using the table saw on both sides. Next I filed the groove on the end with a very thin needle file. I put the stock in my vise and tapered both sides, and used a 0.8mm "chisel" to recut the groove. Next step was to drill the centre hole using the mill - I drilled a number of holes and trimmed the excess with an Xacto blade. Finally I cut the heart from the stock on the table saw :
 

 

 

 

 
Continued next post ......

Frame 10 in place and some rough fairing.
 
Ben

good afternoon
 
day off work today, with intentions of progressing the hammock netting, progress was slow but i am getting the hang of it now, i tried wire, but the brass didnt work for me, so i reverted to 0.5 black thread and cotton

good evening everyone
 
One very dusty looking build, lol you dont see the dust in the daylight
Foredeck cannonades completed and rigged, still finish of the loose end and create coils
flag locker, now has some simulated flags in place, but look a bit bright, in fact they look like rolled up card, which is exactly what they are
hammock cranes being put in, 

Thanks so much for nice comments Christian, Nils and Daniel. And also much thanks for the likes.
It's always a great motivation.
 
I have re-drawn all the frames from original-drawings Daniel. That was the reason of the long break because I must to force myself to do it

Hello Christian,
 
I fear to that I can't be a great help for you. But it's nice to see that your project is going on.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 89 – Middle Deck Hatches/Cabin Deck
 
The first picture shows some of the treenailing on the cabin deck.
 

 
These planks are 7” wide.  At this width the standard fastening spec was one per beam / ledge.  The treenails are about 1 ½” in diameter and are Castelo as mentioned in the last post.
 
The next picture shows a typical hatch being framed. 
 

 
At this scale and on this deck, simple lap joints are used.  The head ledges are on top to secure the coamings.  These will be bolted at the pin locations, in each corner and in the center of the beam.
 
The next picture shows a coaming completed and being glued down and one still being fabricated.
 

 
In the next picture the central planks are being installed between the openings for the hatches, masts and water tanks.
 

 
These planks are needed to support the pillars under the main deck.  As with the deck below, no further planking will be done on this deck.
 
The next picture shows some additional planks being installed on the cabin deck.
 

 
After having completed the drawing for arrangement of cabins, etc. on this deck the final amount of necessary planking can be set so those details can be constructed.  I don’t mind covering some of the structural detail in this area because some of it is based on assumptions and its authenticity cannot be verified.  The members – clamps, transoms - along the line of the main deck in this area will also be hidden by the cabins and related details as will the ends of the planking that are simply butted against the margin planks.  Cabin detail will be discussed later.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 88 – Cabin Deck Framing/Planking
 
The cabin deck provided accommodation for senior officers and passengers.  In elevation, it was midway between the middle and poop decks – to provide increased headroom.  The deck occupies the area aft of frame 36.  It is just under 45’ in length on the centerline.  The first picture shows beams being fitted.
 

 
No details are known about the structure of the deck.  I have assumed scantlings equal to the main deck – beams 12” x 12”.  Also, since the structure is lighter and close to the deck below, I have omitted hanging knees.  The next picture shows all six beams installed and awaiting the lodging knees.
 

 
In the next picture, lodging knees, plain square pillars, carlings and ledges have been installed.
 

 
In the next picture 12” wide by 6” thick margin planks are being installed around the sides – again no details known, but a reasonable guess.
 

 
Because the main deck beam at frame 36 will be directly aligned with the beam for the cabin deck and because it is only a few feet above, the deck planking was installed next, while there was still access for drilling.  This work has begun in the next picture.
 

 
I use .021” diameter pins forced into tight holes to secure the planking for gluing.  The holes are then enlarged slightly for treenails.
 
I have yet to decide on the full extent of planking on this deck beyond the area of the cabins along the sides.  I expect to construct the partitions and built-in furniture for these.  More on this later.  The aft end of the main cabin between these rows of sleeping quarters will also likely be decked.  The next picture shows the completed planking in the cabin areas.
 

 
The planks are 3½” thick and 7” wide.  I did not take the trouble to cut these into the margin plank because bedsteads will cover the margin plank and the first few strakes of decking.  In the next picture, treenailing of decking on the port side has begun.
 
 
 
The first two rows have been nailed.  The third row has been drilled.  The treenails are 1½” (.021”) diameter Castello.  This has become the de facto standard size on the model.
 
Treenailing of the inboard side planking continues.
 
Ed