jaerschen

congrats Augie,
 
a gorgeous sight !!!!!!!

Hi Chris,
 
Much thanks, your interest pleases me very well.
 
I used a scroll jigsaw at first that I put in a jig as you can see at the following photos.

On the second photo is the power button that I can press with my foot.
 
After I sanded with a belt sander
 
Oh my english, I hope that was what would you like to know

I haven't done this myself (yet) but I believe you can darken the shrouds with 'India Ink'.  I'm sure others with more experience can provide more insight, but would seem to be an straightforward task.  She is looking wonderful, and I'm sure whatever you decide it will look great.

Thank you Jason for the suggestion... Good idea that I have never heard...
That was registered... I can try it but I have starched the ropes already... They shouldn't absorb the Indian ink???

Hi Juergen,
 
You are right and have a very kind manner in your notice...
I don't think that the shrouds were white...
But I decided to left them as the kit had supplied...
I think my decision is wrong but I don't want another effort to buy and replace the ropes, I am an obsessive man and sometimes this temper fatigues me and sometimes to break this temper makes me feel happy... that situation is one of them...

Much thanks for the kind comment Timmo.
 
It's going on with the build. I added two rails during the last days.
But I want to display how make the planks above (or under) the gunports at first.
 
First step is to mark the position where the plank must be wider

 
Then I saw the plank with the bandsaw

 
and sanded it

 
Thereafter it must be fitted to the other planks. I did that with a chissel. That's the easiest way to do it for me.

 
Here you can see the result.

 
And now some photos of the current progress.





 

Rigging the Gaff:
 
I was able to construct the gaff from the provided kit parts fairly easy, though I wish that I had a mini lathe.  I ran into problems with rigging the peak halyard, which you will see from the photos below.  I am not happy with the current job, so I will be redoing the peak halyard soon.  I was fairly frustrated so I have been spending my building time lately, getting my Syren kit framed up.  I will be returning to the longboat this week in the push to complete the model.
 
Any tips that can be given about making rigging lines look taught with out putting too much pressure on the lines would be greatly appreciated. 
 

 

 

 
           

A few exterior hull shots,  And this is pretty much where I am with this build at present, so it's time to put some more energy into building!

Thank you so much for looking and the kind comment B.E.
 
Here's a little update. The planking include the rails at the starbord side are finished so far as possible at the moment.
The ornaments at the end of the rails (I don't no the right term) were uncharted waters for me. I decided to do the rail and ornament at one piece.
I made a simply stencil because it needs several of that ornaments.

 
The shape of the rail is done with drawing plate and the ornament with cutter and curving tools

 
here you see it at the model

 
I desided to close the spaces between the bulkheads at the port-side based on some trubble during the planking
That's looking so

 
I believe the planking will be much easier at this

Thank you so much for looking and the kind comment B.E.
 
Here's a little update. The planking include the rails at the starbord side are finished so far as possible at the moment.
The ornaments at the end of the rails (I don't no the right term) were uncharted waters for me. I decided to do the rail and ornament at one piece.
I made a simply stencil because it needs several of that ornaments.

 
The shape of the rail is done with drawing plate and the ornament with cutter and curving tools

 
here you see it at the model

 
I desided to close the spaces between the bulkheads at the port-side based on some trubble during the planking
That's looking so

 
I believe the planking will be much easier at this

Much thanks for the kind comment Timmo.
 
It's going on with the build. I added two rails during the last days.
But I want to display how make the planks above (or under) the gunports at first.
 
First step is to mark the position where the plank must be wider

 
Then I saw the plank with the bandsaw

 
and sanded it

 
Thereafter it must be fitted to the other planks. I did that with a chissel. That's the easiest way to do it for me.

 
Here you can see the result.

 
And now some photos of the current progress.





 

lower deck

On building the items for the gun deck I have uploaded photo's showing how I made my capstan's. Not quite as advance as Ed's, but am sure that several years in to Montagu life she just may of had those types. In ones travel of building and researching a ship of the line, one runs in to some interesting items such as the fore jeer capstain, and it being lower down in to the capstain room on the orlop deck.  Just to give some of you a heads up on this item, while researching this capstan, most of the contracts I have on them state that this capstain was lowered down to the orlop deck to make room for the long boat.  Steel shows this in his plates and talk's about it in his book Steel's Naval Architecture of 1805. After spending time trying to figure out how it worked I built what I thought was a good repersentive of it.  Did they really lower this down, I do believe so, why else would they have built it this way.

After the beams were installed and fitted in place, they were left loose so I could pull them out for cutting the notches for the carlings on the out side of the ship. I also added the hanging and lodging knees to the ends of the beams and seems that it took awhile to get the pieces to a point were they could be glued in place. At the same time the bitt's were added along with the fore mast partner which was sandwich in between the knees of the bitt's. Most probably know that the cross member of the bitts were not nailed in place but held in place by eyebots and hooks which I added  them. Since all the pull was on the bitts them self seems like a good thing to do and did save time if the cross members needed to be changed out.

Hi Ferit,
 
I havn't much idea about ships of that period. Were the shrouds white at this time ?

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 180– Finishing the Quarter Gallery

In these last phases of construction some of the items are small and the descriptions short – like this one.

The starboard quarter gallery has been worked and reworked quite a bit as I have deciphered its construction. The last remaining issue was the enclosure atop the upper finishing. My original interpretation of this is shown in the first picture.



I was never satisfied with this arrangement. First, the enclosure is too low based on the original sheer draft. Also, the aft end of it is unsupported and open across the back. Fixing this has been on my “to-do” list for some time.

On ships where the scallops at the ends of the taffrail are convex, there is sufficient height for the enclosure to butt against the taffrail. On the Naiad draft, these scallops are clearly concave, so at the end of the enclosure the cap rail on the taffrail is lower than the top of the enclosure. After quite a bit of searching, I finally found a reasonable reference showing a comparable configuration in John Franklins model of Egmont in the NMM. I replaced the enclosure shown above with the modified version shown below.



In this construction, an athwartship section is installed to meet the height of the side enclosure at the correct height. This seems a logical solution. The enclosure acted as a cistern, undoubtedly lead lined, that provided water the toilet facilities in the quarter gallery, so with the addition of the aft section, a level barrier is provided.

Here is another view.



In this construction the height of the enclosure is at the height of the sheer rail as shown on the drafts and the back section completes the basin enclosure at that height - a much better solution.


Ed

Thanks, Mark.
 
The next items to make were the hatch coamings.  I chose to model them in cherry for the contrast.  The gratings will be in boxwood.  They are composed of four pieces (two fore and aft coamings and two athwart head ledges).  The coamings have a rabbet to accept the grating.  There was no rabbet on the coaming for the ladderway.  On the real ship they would interlock with a tailed half-lap joint; I made a simpler half-lap joint.  The head ledges curve to match the round-up of the deck.  Rather than making the entire assembly off the ship and then sanding in the curvature, I glued the head ledges directly onto the beams.  There is not that much round-up so pre-bending the wood was not necessary.  Once they were dry I installed the coamings and cleaned up the joints. 
 

 

 
At the corners, the edges are rounded off to the deck level only, leaving a 90 degree corner from the beam to the top of the decking. 
 

 
Each head ledge is secured with three bolts.  I did not have any brass wire with me so I dyed a bamboo treenail black to simulate the bolt.  Treenails secure the coamings.  I spaced them approximately every foot.  The treenails are also made of cherry.
 

Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen. 
 
Mario,
It's been in the 80's until Friday.. it's now 106o F here. 
 
Well, it's been a week of hell at work with long days and seemingly short nights and this coming week isn't promising to get any better.  But I did manage to finally get the first strake laid and after a bit of tweaking, I'm happy.   I flipped the photo to see it "right side up".  This is the first strake above the wales.  I'm planking upward... or downward....or fiddlesticks...towards the chain wale as this is lower in profile than the wales and I can sand them without damaging the wales. 
 
The wale line goes pretty much straight back from the bow and about 2/3rds of the way, it starts sweeping upward.  The width is pretty consistant from 6 planks wide at the stern, through the mid-ships to about 1/3rd of the way from the bow then ends up a the bow 6-1/2 planks wide.  I'll get creative with some wider wood at the bow area or slip in a stealer... maybe a half-checked stealer... ???
 

The galleries have now been completed there is one more bit to add on the top but that will be done when the quarterdeck rails have been added, no real problems adding the trim and decoration and the photos show the stages, now back to the plating only a few more rows on the second side to go.
 
Decoration going on one side
 

That side done
 

Decoration going on the stern

 

Galleries finished

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the words of commiseration/encouragement guys!
 
Okay, so re-painting is underway. I used a new tin of Humbrol today, just in case the last lot was "off".  Spent a lot of time mixing the paint back into itself - don't know about you folks, but whenever I open a tin of Humbrol the paint pigment seems to set in a semi-solid ball in the bottom of the tin and its a B* of a job to get it to re-combine into the paint.  I was assisted in this by a neat little battery operated paint stirrer that I picked up from MicroMark some time ago but had not yet used.  Have managed to apply three coats today (thinned and applied with the airbrush).  I'll see how it looks in the morning but might need to do one more.
 
In the meantime, I've been working on some of the internal fittings.  To start with, I made up the thwarts using a combination of Pear with a Holly trim.  I then made a mast support from a piece of brass tube and some brass strap that I silver soldered together and then blackened with Casey Birchwood Brass Black.  The big news here is that I think I have finally passed my Chemistry Prac., as it actually seemed to work.  I discovered a huge secret - follow the instructions on the bottle!!!! :P Honestly, instead of all the variety of combinations of dilution strengths and soak times, etc. I just did what it said on the bottle.  Clean thoroughly (I used the Casey Birchwood cleaner), rinse in cold water, apply blackening solution straight from the bottle using a cotton bud (you might know them as Q-tips), wait for one minute, rinse in cold water, then repeat until you have desired depth of colour.  I ended up doing this four times to achieve a result that I was happy with, and it didn't rub off either!
 
Here's a picture of the completed support fixed to the thwart:
 

 
There is a little bit of glue residue evident in the photo, but that should clean up okay.
 
I have also completed making up the footwalling.  I used Holly for this and ran a pencil lead along one edge of each plank to bring out the joins.  I made this up on a paper backing, which was subsequently removed.  In the picture below it is ready for installing.
 
I have also completed the cap rails and painted them in preparation for installation.  And I have made up the risers to support the thwarts.  I did these on the Byrnes saw by temporarily spot gluing the two pieces together, marking out for the rebates for the thwarts and then running them through the saw.  These too are ready for installation. The thwarts are all assembled as blanks with one end finished and the other end to be cut to size on fitting.
 

 
All I need now is to successfully finish off re-painting and I'll be ready to move forward again.

Very nice work as ever Ferit.
What are the ropes that we can see in the background?

Chainplate...

Thanks Robbyn, but I'm not really "thinking" of the actual details, just putting into practice what is in the TFFM books .
 
Transom Iron Knees
 
The corners of the transom are strengthened with Iron Knees. I made these in similar fashion to the other ones described earlier in my build log. They are "cast" (bent) to go under the half-beam. A Filler Piece has been fitted to take the place of a Lodging Knee :
 

 
Here are the aforementioned "half-beams" :
 

 

 
  Danny

I'm working a bit in parallel some on the outsize some on the inside, here's the progress on the gun deck. 40 rings made and installed. 32 for rigging the guns and 8 more on the hatches...
 

 
Now I need to think carefully what else to put on the deck before I start placing guns/beams and knees... There are still some chicken egg problems there I need to find a solution to ...
 
the first next thing here will probably be the lanterns that still have to be put covering the led's
 
Have a nice weekend,
Michiel

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 178– Boomkins, Scuttle Hinges
 
The boomkins – or if you prefer, bumkins – were the only spars included in the construction contract.  This is only mentioned because in determining how far to go with the model, I decided to take it to the state required by the building contracts of the time.  There are a few exceptions.  For example, I included the stove, although that was not included in the contract.  I did not include swivel gun mounts, which were included.  I believe the latter had been discontinued by Naiad’s time.
 
The boomkins were substantial spars extending out from the head to secure the block of the fore course tack.  The lengths of these were not specified, except to say that they needed to extend out to plumb with the end of the fore yard when fully braced.  This required some calculations, which yielded boomkins longer than any I have seen on contemporary models, so I made them slightly shorter but still longer than those seen on Minerva and Leda in the Rogers Collection.
 
In the first picture, a square of boxwood is being converted to a tapered octagon shape with a Stanley #92 plane.  The spar will then be planed to 16 sides and finally rounded with a flat file.
 

 
The boomkins slanted down and were curved.  In the next picture, two pieces with significant extra length have been boiled and are held in the final downward curve by the orange clamps and the “clamped squares” that are fixed in the t-trak.
 

 
After drying out, these were cut to length and installed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The boomkins are bolted to the first hawse timbers outboard of the bollards.  Eventually they will be held down at the false rail with iron clamps.  The next picture shows another view of these.
 

 
One of the final chores was to install hinges on the ventilation scuttle just above the wale along the finished side.  These were made as simple shapes, photo-etched.  They are quite small and when blackened and installed on the black planking, almost invisible.  The next picture shows a few.
 

 
Two of these still have some mask attached.  The next picture shows on of these glued on with CA glue.
 

 
Ed