Mirabell61

Doing the guns in repeatable mode saves some time, once the method is on track...
My work desk is quite a mess, since I have my own room and do`nt have to clean up during the day, and I still have 4 more to do.
 
Am thinking of adding small wooden splints to the axis close to the wheels, but shall do that as last Action
 
Nils
 
 

Trial #1, small wire Pins secure wheels on axis
 

Trial #2, small wooden splints hold back the wheels (I prefer this Version)
 

Gun builders desk
 

have 10 done so far, 4 more to go..

Nigel,
 
a very smart way of getting These difficult spheric Areas shaped and at the same time giving adequate strength to the hull.
Well done !
 
Nils

Hi Nils
 
The infill is my own addition.The kit is open bulkheads and double planking.I am using single planking of scale thicknesses due to the exposed framing on the upper hull.The planking will be spliced at the waterline,Ebony above and boxwood below.The bulkheads would not provide the necessary support for this procedure with single planking .I would have probably infilled anyway as it is my own preference but also there a many complex curves to this hull and to ensure everything is faired properly this is easier in the long run.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello Nigel,
 
I have followed the way you do the lower hull is filled with blocks of Wood between the Frames. Is that own Interpretation or does the kit actually ask you to do it this way. It is an interesting Approach I did not see in this way before and it Looks very good. It probably reduces the planking in that area to a single layer.
 
Nils

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The long task is continuing. Nothing is glued yet. Only the part of the contour touching the rail is don the inner part is still to shape. It is a hard part to do because it is difficult to take efficient measures. I do not exactly what would be the best way to go. The only thing I know for sure is that for these 10 pieces, I did each one at least twice. This is 2 sets of 5 pieces. To align each set, I installed a sheet to make sure for the alignment.

Thank you sirs but your comments are inflated.
I tried another setup with led lights.

Thank you David

Continuing adjustment

Thanks for all the great ideas. This helps greatly.

Thanks for your interest in "Newsboy".
 
The principal component used from the original kit was the carved hull.  After surveying, the hull was carved in the inverted position using a building board and art board templates.  The hull block was positioned with the waterline level, parallel to the building board, and with stations vertical.  Shaping was accomplished using sharp gouges, chissels, and firm sanding sticks for fairing.  As the hull will be overplanked, the hull was finished using 180 grit sandpaper.
 
After the hull was carved to the outer hull lines, the upper hull from 1/8" below the waterline to the cap rail was recessed 3/64" for hull and bulwark planking.  Following completion of hull shaping; the stem, keel, and stern post were fitted.  Additionally, the rudder was fitted (to be installed later) and the pedestal holes drilled at this time.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

The brigantine Newsboy was designed by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsea, MA (designer of the very successful pilot schooners Dancing Feather, Hesper, and Phantom) for owners Dabney & Cunningham of Boston.  Newsboy was built at the Joshua C. Adams and Elisha Brown shipyard in Owl’s Head, ME where she was launched in June, 1854.  She had a length of 111 feet, beam of 27 feet, depth of 12 feet, and tonnage of 290 tons.  While described as a brigantine, the rig is more accurately described as a hermaphrodite brig because there were no square sails on the main mast.
 
The Newsboy was engaged in the triangular trade: carrying lumber and manufactured goods from New England to the Mediterranean; transporting wine, oil, and fruits to the West Indies; and returning to New England with rum, molasses, and sugar.  The Monthly Nautical Magazine said “having a reputation for speed, by wringing reluctant laurels from her competitors who have chanced to fall in company with her at sea….she does her designers no discredit…her log will speak for itself”.
 
The model is built to a scale of 3/16” to the foot (1:64) based on an old Model Shipways solid hull kit and plans by George F. Campbell.  The model is plank on solid construction, with built up bulwarks, planked decks and topsides, coppered bottom, and scratch built deck furniture/fittings.  Limited commercial fittings will be utilized where appropriate, and the rigging will be proportional linen line with Warner Woods’ blocks.  The Brigantine Newsboy is my 4th wooden ship model and the 2nd in my series of mid 1800’s American merchant sailing ship models.
 
As time permits, I will attempt to post the high points of my previous MSW Build Log.
 
Peter Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

I really like the look and that new figurehead is fantastic.  I really like that type of cutaway, really draws the viewer in (novice or expert).
 
I know what you mean about the dust.  I do the best I can but it is really a losing battle at most times.  I try not to look down into the spaces too often to not get too depressed!
 
Mark

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

thanks Nils........no,  this is one of their more up to date kits....laser cut and all.   I have been blessed by three people here,  that have supplied me with pictures of her.  I'm following these pictures and adding in as much as this scale will allow.   I wish it was a larger scale,  but I have been successful so far with what I've been able to do. {I like to think so}   there are a few things I let slip by me though,  and the absence of the carvings does take away from it a bit,  but I do have plans for this build some time down the road.  so I will finish it as best I can,  and hope to create a second,  larger build in the future.  it's a honor to have an experienced modeler,  like yourself looking in

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

A fine looking Pegasus Nils, fits perfectly with your chosen scheme. Love the interior pics.
 
B.E.

Build log part 24
 
 
 

chainpump Station with housing, drain plugs, the discharge sides ore closed whith slide shutters
 

crank handles for chainpumps and Forward bearing supports, and Support for the spare masts and spars as well as Posts and belaying rack. The three mid Pins will be replaced with smaller ones
 

the grating cover of the main load hatch is and stays removeable
 

 
 

 

it is amazing how fast the dust settles in the open portside interior, Need to carefully brush it out now and then
 

all the aft cabin bulkheads are waiting to be set
 

it was always my wish and Intention to have a figurehead in cast brass instead of resin, it was impossible to get it anywhere, acc. to Chris Watton Amati would`nt do it because they favour resin, but I would not give up..., so now after Research and activity I have my own prototype one in scale 1/64 and it fits very well and gives the model a Special note
 

 

 
 
 
Nils

I turned a stub main mast to ensure it would clear the bits. I couldn't resist putting a couple of spars between the gallows and the fore deck with my card outline of a pinnace sat on them. Well yes - they should be spare top masts and the spars are too long.
 
The gap behind the mast will be occupied by the two chain pumps. 
 

 
I also stepped back and took a more general view. It is at risk of looking like an actual model of a sailing ship. Swoon.
 

 
The stub mast is balanced in the waist area. You will notice the top end is turned down to 5 mm diameter. This will go in to the deck once I open the hole out (bit by bit) from the current 1mm diameter. Before opening it out I will turn a stub fore and mizzen mast so I can look along the three masts to make sure they are in line.
 

But first what should the diameter of the masts be.....?
 
I have created a spreadsheet that compares the Coral mast and yard sizes with those calculated from Steel. Some parts match in size others are completely different. A possible partial explanation is that the actual Unicorn predates Steel by half a century - so masting standards may have changed in that time.  
 
I tried to upload the fruits of my labours - no joy in its current form. If I copy and paste from the spreadsheet in to the log the data appears in one long line, and the MSW tools do not allow uploading of spreadsheets in to the log (fair enough). I will have to find a better way of achieving this so that I can compare notes with fellow Unicorn builders Mike and ZyXux.
 
I am also taking myself off tomorrow to the newly re-opened Manchester Central Library which holds reference copies of Lees' "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" along with a copy of Lavery's "The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600 - 1815". If nothing else it will keep me off the streets. 
 
I tried to use Danny Vadas' mast/yard calculator spreadsheet that is in the downloads section of MSW. Sadly it uses macros and my "as supplied with the pc" version of Excel Starter does not support them. This uses calculators from Lees.
 
Let's see what tomorrow brings.
 
 

Thanks Joe. Nice to know my thinking is not totally off the rails.
 
 
Time to get stuck in to the chain pumps - starting with the cisterns.   I started by preparing some 0.5mm thick strip of walnut with my "contraption". For the sides I produced strip 10mm wide. Along this I scored two groves and rubbed pencil lead in the them. This was to represent the edges of the planking. The strip was then cut in to 17.5mm lengths to make the four sides.    Similarly 4 off pieces 5.2mm by 10mm were cut from the ends (not from the same piece as the sides since the grain does not run in the same direction. Then 2 off pieces 6.5mm by 19mm for the bottoms. Actually I cut these slightly wide then trimmed them back when it was all glued together.   Some other bits that I cut from this wood were 3 pieces 0.5mm square (to reinforce the corners and to make the slides into which the removable end fits) and one piece 0.5mm x 1.5mm to make the ledges on the top of the cistern at each end.     Assembly was by fixing the slides to one end of each side. Next was the corner bracing to the two fixed ends along with a piece of 0.5 x 1.5 x 5.2mm to make the ledge.   Each end was then fixed to one side.     These parts were then glued together and the bottoms were glue on with one end protruding from under the removable end. When dry the bottoms were trimmed to the correct width and the protruding end rounded.   For the inboard end of the cistern the feet were made from 6.5mm lengths of 1.0 x 1.0mm strip. These were glued across the width of the cistern (one per cistern).   The cisterns were then placed in the waist area and the outboard ends were packed with scrap wood until the cisterns were level. Measuring the thickness of the packing gave me the depth of the outboard feet.