modeller_masa

I finished sails. It is almost done.

I finished a standing rigging. The next step is a running rigging.

You are doing great, and the tiny dent won't be a big issue. You are very close to the goal. After a week, the small sailing ship will have masts and sails, and you will proudly upload the finished pictures. This is my method to seize the micro size blocks. As you said, there are 4 kind of blocks. I used masking tape to hold the tiny parts. I waited for 30 sec and removed the excess CA glue drops. Carefully remove the rope and block. I think I don't need to seize the blocks accurately. This kit is very small, so it is hard to check the seizing method of each blocks. You are doing well. I had some issues regarding rigging. Fortunately, Seahorse uploaded his original ship pictures, and they are very helpful for my work. The final step should be as light and fun as I feel it is.

The bowsprit is a tricky part. These build logs are different models, but they may help your project.

Thank you for kind comment, Jsk. I'll finish this kit this month. Whether I complete my kit or not, I'll keep enjoying watching your build log. I constantly suffered from the tiny parts of this kit. I had doubts that this kit's scale was misprinted. I thought the proper scale number was 1/100. Was Seahorse wrong? No. I have checked Doughty's plans and concluded that the original plan is a bit weird. The 31 ton plan seems likely to be an undersized 51 ton plan. They are almost identical. The 31 ton US revenue cutter was a miniature 51 ton RC. I understood that why they didn't want to build 31 ton cutters.

If the strips spring out like a spring, bend the wooden piece before attaching. With a little water and mini iron, you can bend wooden strips permanently. The instruciton video also shows the iron. Unfortunately, the CA coated wood strips are wasted. Use new strips. I recommend buying iron and a fast-drying Titebond III PVA bond for woodworking.

Astonishing! Congratulation!

I'm rebooting the USRC after I digged into the ropewalk for a month. I finished one of the main mast now. I'll go to the HMS Wolf ZL029 when I'm ready. Mixing paint and running ropewalk is one of my preparations. I think I'll start it after spring vacation. Thanks for your interest, and I'll check your build log soon.

I've experienced that excessive CA glue "pond" lasted for a month. It is good to use a limited amount, and the CA applicator helps to control it. I remove CA glue with Q-tips. Also, thin and fast running CA glue tends to produce more vapor and an eye-hurting smell. It is one of reasons I prefer middle thick CA glue for woodworking. In addition, CA primer or accelerator harden CA glue in a second.

According to the information sticker on the box, the Hermione La Fayette kit from AL received an official license for a modern replica (2014) in France. The newer kit has better details and refined hull structure, but it doesn't guarantee academical accuracy, as Jaager said.

I guess the kit is Artesania Latina's Hermione La Fayette. Both old and new kits included sapelle strips. // Oh, you replaced the kit strips with cherry strips.

I think the second planks are sapelle strips. (1) The best : Remove any unsuccessful planks and place a new strip tightly. It needs huge time and labour, but the best way to revive the ship. (2) Hiding : Fill the gaps with wood fillers and stain the entire hull. Find the most similar colored wood filler. My choice was mahogani colored wood filler from Timbermate. The colour should be matched with sapelle strips. And apply an oil based gel-stain. I used the Varathane oil based gel stain, cedar color. Warning - test before apply it. I bought 7 different colored wood fillers and 6 gel stains and tested various combinations to find the best result.

Jo Sonja is a sub brand of Chroma inc in Australia. Norwegian brand since 1974. It is one of the most famous acrylic paint brands in Korea. Almost all of Jo Sonja's acrylic paints have a soft body, so it is very easy to convert to airbrush ink. I didn't expect that the Renesans is a brand name before I posted. I've never heard of it. Most of the Jo Sonja paints are not transparent. It won't be a big issue because I'll airbrush them. I can control the amount of spray, and the result was pretty good in my previous experience. Thanks everyone for advices on paints.

https://renesanspolska.pl/en/discover-en/acrylic-colors/colours/ I just realized that the kit paints are from Renesans in Poland!

I made some color conversion charts for Shipyard kits. Some colors were dried when I opened the kit, and some colors are not enough to paint the hull based on my previous experience. I mixed my Josonja acrylic paints to make the same color. The 100% color matching means nearly 100%, or 99% in reality. I don't need to be picky when I paint wooden grain patterns. By the way, some pre-printed patterns have different colors from the kit's acrylic paint. For example, the red strips above the picture are different colors. This chart will help if you want to paint bulwark in the same red color. Also, you can find more simple sail colors, such as the Josonja Background color series - Linen.

A laser cutter could be the last resort for quality white decals at home. - Machine : Low powered and cheaper - laser paper cutter. - Paper : Water slide decal sheets for light colors (The color of the sheets is white.)

Here is the 3rd prototype. 1st - Failed 2nd - Only manual control 3rd - Continuous unraveling (Many improvements are required.) It's time to get back to the workbench and face my little ship.

Thin or run-down CA glue is really hard to control. I prefer medium thick CA for wood working. https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-sf-7452/BP000000153559.html Any CA accelerator or primer makes surface ready for 10 hours. Also, it works instantly and permanently. In my opinion, it is so strong that I don't have any chance to fix it.

This is a second attempt to make a thread unraveling machine. I added a thread tension unit (Red) that is used in sewing machines. The opposite side also has tension units. It will be a continuous thread unraveling machine. I printed the parts. It seems promising, but... The vibration exceeded my estimation. I added some counterbalance, but I found that the weight balancing should be very accurate to avoid the deadly vibration. Designing the automatic counterbalancer is beyond my ability. I understood why Domanoff didn't add the tension units to his rotating wheel. I completed the machine and tested it. It works, and I got Tex 3.5 Thread (equivalent to MARA or Serafil Ticket No. 840). It runs very slowly. The bobbin runs at 60 rpm. I'm out of ideas, so I'll take some rest. 😢

The spool should have an appropriate tensioner. Adding thread tension units to spools is on my bucket list, but the order of priority of modification for the PL4 isn't high for now.

I'm sorry that the example of RoS was cable-laid, which is composed of 3 ropes. https://ropesofscale.com/products/polyester-light-beige-rope This is a proper example product to compare with other ropes. 1.8mm Polyester Light Beige Rope 3 Stranded Z lay - countless yarns per strand

My long term mission is to build 1/200 HMS Victory with full details, like Lloyd McCaffery did. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/0851774857/ ) It'll be a distant future 20 years later. My current goal is to build 1/48~1/72 common kits, such as galleons and ship of the line. Also, some 1/96~1/150 plastic kits are awaiting. To complete my current project, US Revenue Cutter 1/72, I use self-made ropes for every rigging, including 3/4" circumference rope for ensign staff and seizing. The smallest rope I can build is a 3-stranded rope with Amann Serafil Ticket No. 420 (or Tex 7). The three stranded rope has tex 21 (or ticket no.150), and real nominal diameter is 0.15mm or 0.006". I think it is fine because most ropes are 3" to 12" circumference, which are 0.50mm or 0.021" to 2.00mm or 0.083" nominal diameter at 1/72 scale. -------------- I studied about real rope and concluded that commercial model ropes are over-twisted. These are some samples of real ropes. 3 Stranded Z lay - Single yarn per strand S lay - Jute fiber 4 Stranded Z lay - 2 yarns per strand S lay 3 Stranded Z lay - 10 yarns per strand S lay 4 Stranded Z lay - 120 yarns with core per strand S lay - fiber Z lay 3 Stranded Z lay - 6 yarns per strand S lay 4 Stranded Z lay - 4 yarns per strands S lay - hemp fiber Z lay https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-hemp-rope-rigging-hms-victory-portsmouth-historic-dockyard-england-31648539.html HMS Victory - White hemp rope 3 Stranded Z lay - Many yarns per strand S lay Here are model ropes. Amati 2.50mm rope Art.4125/25 3 Stranded Z lay - 10 Yarns per strand S lay - 3 yarns per yarn Z lay - Linen fiber S lay I can't find my Syren rope that I purchased with Rope Rocket. (Source : https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32140-rope-and-rigging-blocks-various-sizes-syren-model-ship-company/ 3 stranded Z lay - 3 yarns per strand S lay ( source : https://ropesofscale.com/products/polyester-tan-cable-laid-rope ) Rope of Scale - Polyester Tan - Cable-laid rope 3 Roped S lay - 3 Stranded Z lay - ? ------------------ I think the key difference between model and real ropes is the yarn on each strand. For example, Rope of Scale uses only 3 yarns on each strand. As a result, the texture of yarn is exaggerated. Also, the maker probably overtwisted the yarns so that the green lines aren't parallel to rope. On the contrary, HMS Victory's huge hemp rope uses 100 yarns on each strand. Also, the angle of the green lines is parallel to the rope. It means that yarns and strands are made 45' angle. The RoS rope wasn't because it was twisted strongly. You can find more examples with the search term "HMS Victory hammock netting." It looks like the hammock netting is made of 3 stranded rope with 6 yarns on each strand. Syren's rope shows an adequate angle that the green lines are almost parallel to the rope's direction. But, the yarns are so thick that they have an aggressive texture. I would say that Amati did pretty well. Although my first impression wasn't good because of its "flat texture," I think it is more realistic rope than RoS's sample picture. I don't know which rope is correct or wrong. I like the style of RoS, and Syren Rope Rocket's instruction also guided me to do that. I'm curious why commercial model ropes are different from the original ropes on real ships.

Yeah. It makes non-sense that the "continuous" machine can only work with larger size thread only, and offers only tiny bobbins to load. Thicker thread → The PL4 loads only limited amount, such as 10 meters or 30 feet. → Works well, but Rope rocket is also able to handle same amount of thicker thread at once. Thinner thread → The PL4 loads more than 100 meters or 400 feet. → Doesn't work. Rope rocket also works well with the thinner threads, but the capacity is limited. I can't help a topic about cored threads. I didn't try it because my biggest issue was making thinner rope. By the way, I don't know why I didn't see Bob Cleek's post a few hours ago.... ---- I'm sorry that I misunderstood the word take up bobbin. I modified or extended the PL4 machine to overcome my issue. I replaced the take up bobbin and related drive systems. There is a red LED digit in the center of the machine. The digit shows speed of the take up spool. Unfortunately, the modified machine is in my rooftop attic because I couldn't get a satisfying result from the machine.

It is interesting that animal oriented thread has relatively short life time. It may mean Vegan is the best. Hemp and Asian linen - I researched them long ago because they are common here. Unfortunately, they are too thick for model ship. Probably the linen is a good start to research natural fiber. Hello, Gregory. It is a good subject for thought. - Is realistic thread better for a scaled model? The first rope is not realistic and looks bulky. However, its sharper edge and high detailed texture appeal to the public who don't have deep knowledge. The third rope is more realistic. However, many people won't notice a significant difference between the second and third ropes. I sometimes paint scaled models in different colors. For example, I paint 1/700 ships a little brighter. I think I should use difference-size ropes when the color is darker - Scaled black rope looks smaller than white rope, although they have same thickness. Sometimes cheating eyes may result in a better scaled effect. And thank you for sharing the great lecture document. I already found some new ideas to improve my machine in the text.