modeller_masa

It is super easy and only time-consuming trick. Even children can do better than me. Thanks to the newly learned skill, I'll try building plastic sailing ship kits in the near future. I'll upload tutorial video while I'm waiting for the oil paints to dry.

I carefully sanded the 1st planks. It is essential to successful hull planking. And then, I found my critical mistake. The 104 part should have been glued before the 105~116-1st planks. Because I glued the 1st planks in the wrong position, further hull planking and related parts were affected by the huge mistake. 😱 The second planking is done. As you can see, I couldn't use the guide lines on the 1st planking. The second plank was positioned incorrectly, resulting in an uneven wale lines. I guess the 114 parts are wrong. It is good to sand the bottom of the 114 to make the keel an even thickness. I added wales in the wrong place. This is the opposite side. 😭 Another wales. Patching before painting. It is the end of the second planking. I glued 139 to start painting. I'm using oil paints with Winsor & Newton Liquin light gel, so it will take a few days.

Welcome aboard, GrandpaPhil! Due to poor instructions and less readable part numbering system, I missed some parts in the previous build log. Fortunately, they are not important parts. I strongly advise new Shipyard kit builders to take pictures of all part sheets and print a parts check list. I missed these parts. 😱 😱 😱 😱 😱 😱😂😭🤪 The kit's instructions said that this kit has three planking layers. Actually, it has five planking layers. This picture shows the fourth planking, which is equivalent to the first planking layer of common wooden model kits, so I paid more attention to the fourth layers before I install the last-fifth layers. It's not the last process of the first planking... 😴

(Winsor & Newton Liquin Light Gel is the best to harden oil paint within a day.) I agree with Chris' idea. For young people, painting is difficult to learn and time consuming. Before I painted the wood grain patterns, I had to a lot of research, which took a lot of time and money. This kit is more than 10 years old, so it would be better to launch a new painted-laser-cut edition to attract newcomers. I'm ready to go hull planking. It was so much fun thanks to super accurate model, but the instructions were wrong or omitted important parts. Because the other things are nearly perfect, poor instruction is the only notable problem with this kit. The second issue is a painting.

https://www.amazon.com/Ships-Christopher-Columbus-Santa-Anatomy/dp/1557507554 https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=31405429196&searchurl=isbn%3D9781844860142%26n%3D100121503%26sortby%3D17&cm_sp=snippet-_-srp1-_-title1 Here is another link to the AotS book at $55. When you receive the book, your question about the forecastle will be solved. Oh, I can't wait to show you a cheat sheet. The AL Santa Maria is a type of Nao based 1990 replica, which is one of the three kinds of Santa Maria in the AotS book. The plan you bought before may be a galleon Santa Maria. They are very different ships. Good luck on your build!

Hello, This is my new side project and the second cardboard model kit. The Shipyard makes the top premium sailing ship cardboard model kits. I have some words for their unfriendly manual, but the quality is better than the wooden model kits I've built. If you don't mind painting wooden patterns on paper planks, this is probably the best kit for building high quality model at a low cost and in a short amount of time. By the way, this year I'm not talking much, unlike the last year, and am focusing on experiencing as much as possible. I found the latest Papegojan build log in 2013, but the pictures were unfortunately gone. This build log will be mostly photos. If you have question about a specific part, feel free to participate in my build log. https://alexey.baldin.space/?p=1 If you are looking for a better build log, this site will help. Kit's error 1 Kit's error 2 The manual is hard to decipher... Make sure everything is in line. My ship is twisted again. 😭 Tan color base The kit's paint had dried like a stone. Oil paint and an interdental brush. Winsor & Newton Liquin medium helps reduce drying time. Yellow Deep 3 : Brown Earth 1

Yes. I use the J Tech laser g-code plugin for Inkscape.

Exactly. An air compressor is mandatory to cut any material thicker than 0.8 mm. The Sculpfun brand offers all accessory options including the $55 air compressor, and it works pretty well. The assembly is a bit tricky, but it is definitely better than raw aluminium pipe cut models. These are options I purchased with the S10. Nevermind the software. The software isn't free. I'm using LaserGRBL, which is open source and free. The LaserGRBL does most of Laser CNC cut. I use an open source freeware Inkscape to make a vector gcode.

I bought a Sculpfun S10 laser cutter with some accessories at $500. It uses a 10W output fiber-laser module, which consumes more than 20W of electricity. The cutting performance is equivalent to commercial kit and more sharper.

I made a bucket using the same method. I used a false-bucket structure.

I don't like barrels in kits. It requires heavy paint work to make it fine. I have a fiber laser cutter, which can cut cherry wood up to 6mm. It is so useful that I already packed my Proxxon table saw. Also, I bought some thick cardboards for my next project. The brown paper on the picture is 1mm thick. I challenged to make a DIY cardboard cask to replace kits. I spent several hours for measuring, designing, and CAM. Now I only needed five minutes to print each cardboard cask sheet. The left design is final. It is very stable and easy to assemble. I used CA glue only. I spent about 15 minutes assembling each cask. After that, I glued a black paper strip and applied shellac as a varnish. I'll build another smaller cask in the same process. cask 31x21mm.zip These are my design files. It is free to use.

I received it and had the same issue. The wood conditioner bottle leaked. In addition, some contents are changed in the Jan 2023 production. I am really satisfeid with David Antscherl's quality instructions and kit build.

That was nice application of cloth pegs, Spyglass. Good modellers are not picky about tools. In the first plan, I missed action and reaction force, Jaager. The bolts could easily shatter planks if the inside of planks doesn't have adequate support. It is a reason I started thinking about clips.

I advanced the draft idea a little bit. It uses the structure of cheap steel C-shaped clamps, which are made of pressed steel plate. The cost of each C shaped clamp is about 50 cents. I don't have metal bending tools, so I tested my idea with wooden pieces. It seems nice, but the depth isn't enough with the mini tip. Fortunately, the hard maple wood was very durable. I added a modification. Now it has replaceable tips. Also, I can adjust the height of both ends. Finally, it works. OK... then... Where can I use this jig? It is still complex and not very handy, in my opinion. Building a new tool was fun, but I need to polish the experimental jig a lot...

Thanks for pointing out my intention, David. It is a vision of the "planking clamp tool," and sometimes I draw more specific concepts to materialize the vision by calculating engineering stuff. Same idea, different approach. I tested the hair clip, but the spring wasn't strong enough. It seems better. I'll test the structure. Also, I ordered a "long mouth spring clamp" to test the same idea.

While I was frustrated by the uneven planking surface, I had a dream... It could be more fun, faster, and fantastic if every clamping task was as simple as designing a 3D model. I know many people use rubber bands instead of the heavy steel stuff, but I need more universal clamping tools for every angle and perspective.

Congratulations! It is a tiny shiny gem.

Countless. It is faster to count ongoing kits. 😭 (Pending) Middle age long house - Stone block - 2 years old Occre HMS Terror - 1 Year old Zvezda Kruzenshtern - Plastic kit - 1 year old Zvezda Atomic powered icebreaker Arktika Project 22220 - Plastic kit - 1 year old Academy Arleigh Burke - Plastic kit - 1 year old Academy LCS-2 Independence - Plastic kit - 1 year old Marisstella Liburnian Monoreme - 6 months old (Ongoing) Mantua Sergal HMS Bounty (On pins and needles 😭)

Fast drying PVA glue, such as the Titebond series and Aliphactic glue, will be a sweet spot. Titebond I, II, II Dark, III - Various colors with low viscosity Titebond White - High viscosity with more faster drying time https://ralphsway.com/aliphatic-glue-vs-pva/

I got stuck at the entrance of a bottle. 😭 I'll buy a new bottle tomorrow... I admire Amati's reasonable design, but this kit's production quality issue is repeating itself. I believe that the main brass mast should have had one more hole at the top. After several considerations, I simply added the ring with CA glued string. In addition, I think the F lines are two riggings. Without these modifications, the brass masts and yards warped easily when I folded them. OK. I may finish this small project tomorrow if I find a proper glass bottle. See you again at the gallery. 😎

It looks better than mine, Bob. I didn't paint the deck fittings. I started mine five hours ago and had some difficulties with the hull planking. My current issue is that the kit's sails are not the proper size or shape. I set a paper (silkspan) and will make paper sails tomorrow. 😎 The manual said 0.60mm wood veneer sheets, but the real wood sheets are 0.72mm thick! As a consequence, the height of the deck is 1~2mm higher than the plan. I would say that this is the correct one.

Hello, Mark. I'm delighted to meet you, as we're working on the same kit. I'm making the same kit with an older version, which used inaccurate CNC cut. It looks like your plan paper is exactly the same thing I have. I referred to some sources, such as Anatomy of the Ships series and Amati's kit plans, and concluded that the Sergal Bounty is a tweaked version of the AotS book. The Sergal Bounty changed the proportions of hull and deck height to fit their universal deck parts. Therefore, this kit is a kind of artistic model in my opinion. If you want to build historically accurate model or accurate Bounty replica, you should expect lots of difficulties that frustrate first time builders. Also, if you follow the building manual in the 50 year old kit, you'll experience many issues. I strongly advise you to research the most recent and enhanced modelling techniques from here. This project won't be easy and will take a lot of times But don't give up. If you get bored, it is ok to build a secondary project at the same time. Just don't forget to come back and continue when you are ready to conquer the hard part that makes you feel frustrated.

Jaager, I think you are talking about the incomplete 3D graphics model, which has recently uploaded weekly. In my opinion, the posts are violating in two terms; (1) The project seems incomplete because it is frequently updated. Assuming the 3D model posts are incomplete, the fair place to upload the posts is the "CAD and 3D modelling plans." (2) The posts may not match with kind of the culture of the bulletin. The "one-time" post is the general use of the gallery. Although there isn't an explicit usage guide in the gallery, most members used to upload only their finest and polished models, which can be a good reference for other members' builds. The "updating" project is vulnerable. I wish the member would roughly research the gallery and understand the characteristic of the bulletin. I agree that the 3D models don't fit the current categories of the gallery bulletin, but uploading in the scratch build category is not that bad. I think the 3D model is kind of a plan and a reference. We build models, and it is a useful way to build an accurate model. If the model has the master quality of the NMM contemporary models, the post can be uploaded in the "Gallery of the contemporary models and private collections," in my opinion. Of course, any 3D model post should be a completed project. To be honest, I don't want to see any 3D models on the main page unless the gallery impose the 3D web-cruising function, that allows user to rotate and zoom in and out.

Happy new year~ When I uploaded the most recent completed project, I found some unknown albums in my account. I didn't touch or delete the albums, but I want to clear the unwanted albums. Could you help me solve the issue?

Hello, rcmdrvr. They are not threaded metal pins, but plastic beads to shallow the pin's length. I was scared of pins poking my fingers when I pushed the pins. 🤣 It didn't work well and was useless.