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modeller_masa

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Everything posted by modeller_masa

  1. modeller_masa
    I hope some makers build the Muleta kit. The design is very attractive and not too difficult. The scale should be 1/50 ~ 1/60. Thank you for watching my build log, and see you again at my old ongoing logs. 😎
  2. modeller_masa
    I added great references. https://mnm.webmuseo.com/ws/musee-national-marine/app/collection/record/10129 It is a contemporary model from the Musée National de la Marine in Paris. https://veryimportantlot.com/fr/lot-gallery/view/vitaliy-anakhin-a-model-of-the-portuguese-fishing-12820\ It is not a museum model, but the model has the best details I've ever seen. The rigging plans in the manual are generally good. The manual missed some important parts. Once I added the missing parts, all rigging work was pretty straight and easy. These diagrams show additional explanations of the missing parts. Check the red circle on S10 aft-mast. I had to hold the S10 mast. The S10 mast is connected to the S11 main-mast. It is necessary to complete the rigging work. I made a fabric flag. The Portugal flag was used between the 1830s and the 1910s. The Muleta ships disappeared in the early 20th century... I made some rams at the stem. The project is almost finished. I'll add the oar and stand tomorrow. 😎
  3. modeller_masa
    I had some issues with kit rigging plans. The kit omitted an important part, so the main mast and aft-mast didn't work well. I confirmed the missing parts from the contemporaty model of Portuguese museum sites. After I fixed it, everything went very smoothly. 😎 I'll post the modified rigging plan when I finish her.
  4. modeller_masa
    This kit is a very small project for everyone and can be a good present for somebody. I'll present the finished one to a child and present another new Book Nook kit. I hope she appreciates my present and is pleased with completing the new kit. By the way, this is a tiny detail that you might miss.
  5. modeller_masa
    [Customer]
  6. modeller_masa
    It's been 3 years since I finished a kit from Robotime. I bought TGB02 Sunshine Town, which is one of Book Nook series. This kit is more difficult than the Sam's study room and requires paintings. I completed the kit in one day without painting.
  7. modeller_masa
    I caught a COVID. My fever has gone down, but I have difficulty breathing and can't smell yet. These are small projects I made during a hard time. I resized the SD14 plan in half and printed on OHP films. It seems pretty promising. I cut double sized blocks using a laser cutter. It's difficult to cut and sand each part now... But, I'm keeping working on it. Oh, and thanks to GrandpaPhil. I upgraded the plank using interior adhesive films. The interior film is not better than raw-wood planks, but much better than paper.
  8. modeller_masa
    I was surprised when I learned the clear glues I used in elementary school were PVA glues, like titebond. Does anyone know any cautions about using the clear glues that are sold everywhere? I think the clear glues are good for hardening threads.
  9. modeller_masa
    OK. The paper planking is ready... The grain pattern of the craft paper isn't in my favor... However, the process of paper planking was so fast and easy. Added more paper strips. I finished the planking process within a day! It's so fast and easy! I'll be looking for craft paper that has better grain patterns.
  10. modeller_masa
    While I was building the 1/100 CARD model, I realized my critical mistake. Unlike wooden model ship kit, this paper model doesn't allow such mistakes. To fix the issue, I had to destroy many parts. After a month, I decided to convert the CARD model to a wooden model. The size is 2X, so the scale is 1/50. The frame building was pretty fast and funny work. I used MDF panel. Everything was looking good. Also, planking was promising. I cut 2x larger cherry strips for planks and keels. This is the first hurdle. The wooden planks are too stiff, so they didn't attach to frames tightly. Due to my limiation of skill, I gave up building a wood-only ship, and decided to use papers on planking. The plankings will be only paper parts of the entire ship. 🤔 The pre-cut cherry strips will be disposed. 😱
  11. modeller_masa
    I glued at first and then wound without glue, like a bobbin. I soak all with CA to keep shape. The regular CA glue has high surface tension, so it tends to block tiny slots. I carefully removed excessive CA glue with Q-tips. I'm looking for more water-like glue.
  12. modeller_masa
    The Meng HMS Rodney 1/700 was my first model ship I used DIY thread railings on. I used printed paper as a template, and it was time and labor consuming method, unfortunately. But I loved the concept. I improved the process by replacing the printed template with a laser-cut sawtooth. The pitch was 0.70mm. This is a test bed. I'll change the pitch. The thread was 0.10mm thick Amann Serafil 180 polyester thread, and the pitch was 0.70mm. All the thread-winding progress is done within 10 minutes. I hardened the thread using CA glue, and the result was durable. I hope my idea was enjoyable.
  13. modeller_masa
    Thank you for your compliment. I'll complete several incomplete projects, such as Papegojan, and focus on a more historically accurate model next. You'll see the new kits soon at the "What did you receive today?" post.
  14. modeller_masa
    Although I still have some unresolved feelings, such as deck fittings, I decided to move on to another project. Thank you for watching my build log!
  15. modeller_masa
    Thank you for the recommendation, Roger. The lot of research sounds not easy, but it is worth keeping on track. I'll focus on the famous ships until I get used to the various armaments from each country. The French ships are the next after I decipher the English ships. Thanks again for all the comments. Your advice was very helpful in clarifying my destination.
  16. modeller_masa
    That is breathtaking art! I can't imagine how many techniques and knowledge you used to build the project from the plan.
  17. modeller_masa
    I can't copy and post my rigging guide book, so I searched for similar walkthrough video. In addition, you may find some useful information in the old build log. Not all the riggings are correct.
  18. modeller_masa
    As long as I do research, I'm finding out what I'm missing. The climb will be long but exciting. I hope I meet my goal without a lot of difficulties. Thank you for introducing the promising book, GrandpaPhil. I buy it.
  19. modeller_masa
    https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/mantua-cannon-kit-french-carronade-ma800.html While I was making the cross section kit, I felt I needed more detailed information about some parts, especially the cannon. I researched some cannon kits, and found Manual 800 and 806 cannon kits. There are some hesitations because the kit designs were built for forts, not moving ships. I'm not sure the 800 and 806 cannons were installed on ships in the same shape. Is there any recommendation for cannon kits except Mantua kits? Scratch build plan are the most wanted. I would like to build cannons and cannon rigging academically. also, I want to detail the wooden deck and gunwale. Cannon-specialized reference books are also welcome! ------------- Loading procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cayTFunCkBA Reference books - Treatise of Artillery: Containing ... to which is Prefixed, an Introduction with a Theory of Powder Applied to Fire-arms / John Millan, 1768
  20. modeller_masa
    Oops, I didn't update this log. I'm sorry I left it for a long time. Both the AL's manual and metal caps are wrong. It is good to fix them. Alignment 🤔 😆 I used clove hitch knot. The sail is half size because I'm making a furled version. ★ Don't furl the sail before rigging work! It is really exciting work. 😆
  21. modeller_masa
    Thank you Roger, I'll practice and learn the stick method again. I used CA glue because it dries fast and protects cords from mashing. I can use acrylic medium or PVA glue which are slow. It is a reason I'm coming back to stick. It is good to hear that someone has already considered the same issue; how to read thread thickness on plans. The underscale rigging may imply how he ovecame the issue.
  22. modeller_masa
    @Cathead It is not only dry, but also clamped. The 0.25mm is the thickness of cords rather than the entire thread. The difference between thread and cord is critical because our eyes recognize the thickness of thread as the volume of ropes in a model. In my opinion, there is a mismatch between the standards of the traditional weaving industry and an actual usage of threads in the model hobby. It is easier to buy "0.25mm threads" than "0.50mm visible thickness threads." BUT, If I see rigging plans from Ancre, I'm afraid of which thickness threads I should use. @Roger Pellett The traditional method is rational, but the CA glue with the digital vernier calipers is a lot faster and more accurate than it, in my opinion. I had minor difficulties with the inch-long rod because cords were compressed when I tied threads too tight. In my conclusion, this is the best method for choosing appropriate threads based on real ships. (1) Calculating "visible thickness" from the original ropes - 4 inch thick rope → 1/12 inch threads (1/48 scale) (2) Finding the same "visible thickness" threads after applying CA glue, PVA glue, Acrylic medium, or shellac.
  23. modeller_masa
    I have a question about the thickness of threads in a kit. I used CA glue to harden the thread. I would say that this method shows the exact thickness of threads when I see them. Amann Serafil 120 Without CA glue - 0.07mm Amann Serafil 120 With CA glue - 0.14mm (+100%) Amann Serafil 30 Before - 0.20mm, After - 0.35mm (+75%) Amann Serafil 10 Before - 0.55mm, After - 0.70mm (+27%) As you can see, this method is easier and faster than other measuring methods. During further experiments, I had a question about the appropriate thickness of threads in a kit. According to AL's kit instructions, the supplied threads have a thickness of 0.25mm. When I measured it with digital vernier calipers, it was 0.25mm. After I applied CA glue, it increased to 0.50mm. How do you think about the difference? Unfortunately, this ship (San Francisco) wasn't real, so I have no reference for actual rope. Should kit companies fix their measuring method?
  24. modeller_masa
    Thanks to many members' help, I updated my gratings. I'll do better next time...
  25. modeller_masa
    Thanks, wefalck. It is very interesting structure. Old sailors invented many things beyond my imagination. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dom_Fernando_II_e_Glória The white ship may be this.

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