Egilman

It wasn't the pressure of war Andy, it was pure technological advancement... the engineering of thrust had far surpassed the relatively simple propeller... At it's highest development the Sabre design was capable of 4500 hp out of a 2500 lb engine... the Typhoon/Tempest could do 475 kts at sea level (full military power) 450 kts at 14k feet... Nothing could touch it at low level not even the fastest spit, mustang, FW, corsair, even the skeeter had to take a back seat to it in pure raw speed... When the Luftwaffe developed low level harassing attacks in '44 using the fastest FW-190 models, the Typhoons and Tempests were vectored to meet the attacks cause they were the only plane capable of catching them... They were coming in at just above sealevel, Below radar, dropping their bombs and running back across the channel.... Couldn't be intercepted cause you didn't know they were coming till you heard the engine roar.... Typhoons would catch them going back across the channel, throttle to the firewall, just above sealevel.... The typhoons would drop onto their tail from 1-2,000 ft and then walk them like they were standing still... No escape for the FW's, can't run, can't manuever, can't hide..... Even the Whittle powered jets of the time couldn't do that.... When the Luftwaffe realized that the bomber missions they were sending out were not returning, the pilots started refusing to fly them... But then it was like most prop planes of the day were average below 20k, (basically the same performance envelope) For example the P-51 is considered to be the best fighter design to come out of the war, but under 20,000ft it wasn't any better than anyone else's best fighter... (and markedly lower performance than the typhoon) It was above 20,000ft where it showed it's true abilities... The Typhoons and Tempests were the exact opposite, they showed their true capabilities below 20,000ft.... (they were actually fastest at sea level the higher they climbed the slower they got) It was an amazing airplane, but raw power in an airplane means speed, and turbines were a huge step forward in that department... Piston engines held on for a long time, but were for the most part replaced by turbines in military applications.... Even in turning the propeller....

70 years ago... The last inservice flight of a Sabre engined fighter was a Tempest of the Indian AF in '53... (the RAF had disposed of them by '49) The Napier Sabre had many different experimental models and was installed in a great many experimental aircraft, but the Typhoon & Tempest were the only planes that used them in production... When the last Tempest was put out to the boneyards, the Napier Sabre passed into history... There are currently 6 of them under restoration to flying status and four more in storage capable of being restored.... A sad fate for the most powerful single engined fighter plane ever produced... (Under 10,000 ft that is)

You used the wrong word brother... "teach" is the correct word... I'm sure you meant to say teach a lot again with this build...

Except in your case you want the cutter ground at 40 deg. thread profile set to cut from the left towards the right for left hand threads and the top slide set at 20 degrees... Ah, there is no engineering reason for the thread profile to be flat pointed, a round nose will work equally well, in fact engineering wise, probably better... That will slightly increase the depth of cut needed to execute the profile though...

Mild steel tearing is usually from too large of a cut with a not quite sharp enough cutter... Large cut does not necessarily mean a large amount of material being removed, sometimes it's too fast of a feed, other times it can simply be wrong type of material.... As you discovered it is not a heat issue... Without having it in hand I'm not so sure how I would approach it... If I had to do it in the tool room I would have started with a single point cutter to the base depth of the thread then gradually ground the flat face on the point of the cutter for successive passes... Not the most efficient way to do it agreed, but sometimes a stepped approach works best... If in a production environment we would have an expanding die made for this job... Reminds me of cutting square threads for lead screws, we only rough cut them, then ground the finish threads... I think the flat thread cutter tip is the issue here, it doesn't matter how deep the cut is, it acts like a chisel (think bulldozer blade) right at the point of the cutter and the deeper you go the force applied to the cutter tip rises geometrically due to the 40 degree taper increasing the shoulder width of the cut... With the size of the part, even mild steel can overwhelm a tool steel cutter.... (especially with such a tiny tip profile) I think if I had to do it on my bench lathe I would have done it by hand using a pointed cutter for the initial cut and a half round micro file to finish it off... (turning the lathe by hand as well rather than power) That is some exacting work my friend, pushing the skill level up.... (once you figure out how to do it you'll never forget it)

GOOD NEWS!!! Brother... You've been missed, welcome home....

Sad and humorous in a way, but very true... I never owned one, but I saw a lot of them...

With a General under the front probably somewhere around 24-26" long... the trailer is 20"...

Wow! Sorry for being late here... I just got back from the emergency room where the doc put my eyeballs back in my head!!! Doc asked me what happened to have both my eyeballs pop out like that, so I showed him an image I printed out of this.... He joined me in the next bed over..... just WOW!!! Above and beyond Grant, above and beyond....

NO VASELINE!!!! Petroleum Jelly will turn it into a plastic blob in a year... Vegetable oil for lubricating Polystyrene.......

A British airborne dust broom... Nothing below 10,000ft could escape being swept away.... One of the very few planes that terrified Luftwaffe pilots.... Very nicely done.....

Something about water brother especially on a bay, slack water is still, high water is ripply, ebb tides generally have long flows but can be confused with still water, incoming tides carry the long swell wave action ... Water like that your depicting is usually at the freezing point where the successive edges build upon one another with the occasional small clear water patches... The ice surface is seldom smooth usually a bunch of slight jagged edges sticking up in every direction... The ice gets smooth when successive snows and the sun has had a chance to work on it smoothing out the ragged edges... You need to decide what type of water you want to depict, ebb tide, slack tide or incoming tide.... high water is not in the picture... Check out some pics of the Canadian Labrador or Maine bay waterlines in late fall early winter for examples... The farther north you go would be better...

Had to be something like that brother, I will say they could have been a bit clearer in mentioning it rather than letting people pull their hair out... Didn't mean to offend...

Amen.... more times than I care to count for me...

Update.... just want to point something out my friend, the next step shows the configuration of the head to the cylinder Rys 26... Sorry for the small size, but the black line between the head and cylinder, (red arrow) represents the position of part 34e after the assembly step (Rys) 25... It appears that we are both right, 34e is the base of the head, but it completely covers the outer rim of 34d... which means there wouldn't be an inside part that fits inside 34b.... Not belaboring the point my friend, just looking for an explanation in an effort to help...

Maybe it's just me brother, but looking at the parts and the diagram it looks like e is the same size as the rolled d... But then I'm only a technical illustrator, not a paper modeler... If it is supposed to fit inside the rolled b,c & d, then it is one heck of an illustration drawing mistake... b & c have lines which show where they are to be glued to each other creating a tapered shape with d wrapping the end creating a lip on the end of the cylinder... what your going to have is a tube with a flat end that is the thickness of three paper tubes... They wouldn't have left that as a bare exposed end, they would have covered it to hide the cut end to make them look uniform and flat... looking at the parts, 34a is much closer to the size of the inside of the cylinder tube b and 34e is much closer to the outside size of cylinder tube d... In my opinion of course... Not trying to argue here my friend, your a lot more experienced in interpreting paper model instructions than I... It doesn't make any sense looking at the actual parts and the exploded parts drawing... Now I'll bow out... it's got to go together some way....

I don't see the problem brother.... 34, 34a & 34A, #34 is rolled and 34A lazercut is inserted into it's end with 34a capping the cylinder boss.... 34b, c, d & e, b,c & d are rolled and slid into each other forming the cylinders with e capping the end.... 2 Parts f form the cylinder head they are rolled then glued together and then Part 34G lazercuts are inserted into the rocker openings with part 34g as the cap for the rocker covers... Am I missing something? Parts f are edge glued to part e... that's why part e has the line across them to locate the head halves... Part e is the cap to the cylinder with the line guiding the head placement... So the question becomes what shapes the base of the head halves once they are formed and glued together? As I see it you can use part e as the base of the heads and insert a short rod of something suitable to fill the cylinders parts b,c &e... They might have missed a part when designing the lasercut sheets... the cylinder head base... A simple rod filling the cylinders eliminates the problem... That's the way it makes sense to me as I envision the assembly... In fact, looking at it a second time, once you insert lasercut parts 34G into the rocker holes you won't have enough space in the remaining volume of the head for anything else.... your forced to edge glue the head onto the cylinder cap....

Oh there's all kinds of stories, like the day I was about 50 miles past Vantage on I-90 Riding back to a pickup site when the driver experienced a pair of flats on the Jenny van.... Only two of us and no spare on the trailer... Tires not destroyed but off the rims... (I-90 can be a very lonely place) where I showed him how to bead seat tires with a cigarette lighter and a can of ether.... He had to get up in the sleeper and change his pants after the first one, it scared the crap right outta him... The life of a carney driver....

Yep, they were well designed when they came out with a fully detailed period interior, (60's-70's) the plywood liner only reaches half way up the side walls leaving bare ribs and ceiling... Usually they had a single tiny light in the center of the roof as well... (they never worked) This trailer model was state of the art in it's day... They do build into nice pieces with a little work so I would say they have held up well over the years....

Very nicely done and in 1/72nd scale to boot!!!! Tiny...

Going to be a good looker brother... You gonna throw some cases of coke in the van? (that would be an interesting creation) Have you found anything to scratch the spare carrier? the kits I have do not have one... (but then my SATB build is a very specific trailer) Looking good..

You've always wanted to, admit it, just haven't convinced yourself yet... {chuckle}

Congratulations!!! Our 35th is coming this December.... (but we were an item for five years before the "let no man put asunder" ceremony) It's been a trip... {chuckle}

They cast a LOT of trailers out of those molds brother, it's been in constant production for over 50 years so I would expect some issues... Nothing insurmountable though.... Any comment on what your turning it into yet? or did I miss it...

Yes Excellent Steer brother.... Thank you.... (it's sure a heck of a lot cheaper than Testors brand MEK as well)