Egilman
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April 1943.... Typhoon Mk I with ID stripes... The pattern is different, D-Day invasion stripes were 18" wide on single engine aircraft and 24" wide on twin engine aircraft and were composed of alternating white and black stripes three white stripes and two black stripes... From the pic above you can clearly see that the standard RAF pattern was four 12" black stripes and three 24" white stripes... The orders were issued in late may to change over and some aircraft didn't start until June 3rd so yea, there was some sloppy striping done as no masking was used... A simple chalk line and 4" brushes handled most of it.... But trying to spot the sloppiness on an aircraft say 15 yrds away was next to impossible... They weren't mopped like with a floor mop they did take a modicum of care in doing it... I've yet in all my years looking to see a pic of invasion stripes that were anything but straight and basically even in width... They weren't that bad....
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It's even more pronounced with British aircraft... British aircraft carried id stripes on their wings long before D-Day, (from late '42 I believe) especially the low flying types... There are numerous examples in the photo archives as well... In fact the whole invasion stripes idea was an RAF one.... (with thousands of aircraft in the skies and an expected massive response from the Luftwaffe planned for, they ordered the stripes installed on every aircraft that contributed to the invasion) Original British ID stripes were not even in width nor in length... the Air ministry ordered the RAF aircraft repainted with the same pattern used on US aircraft so there would be NO mistakes in the air... And one must admit, with the stripes in place, one glance told you which side the aircraft was on... They were very effective...
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Amen to that!!! But just think abut it for a sec, same techniques just different subjects.... It keeps the brain engineering functioning...
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Vincent Black Shadow by CDW - Revell - 1:12 Scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Another suggestion, the gold will have to go down as a two step process, since there is no paint that will give the reflectance that the decal has... Make two stencils one an outline for the gold portion, the other the black lines portion, make the outline stencil for the gold a hair smaller than the outline portion, apply the outline stencil and use bright gold RnB (Rub n Buff) to fill the gold area then use the line stencil over the RnB layer to finish it off.... That is if the cricut can cut that small... It should give you the gold back decal perfectly... -
Vincent Black Shadow by CDW - Revell - 1:12 Scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Yep, it's completely hardened and has started flaking off the backing paper, usually this means that the film is cemented to the paper.... What I found is once the liquid film is applied let it dry for a full 24hrs, then, once cut out, allow them to soak for at least 6 hrs, let them float right off the old backing paper cause that is what they will do then apply them directly from the water they are floating in... It works sometimes, other times it doesn't, but more often than not it does... But it is a roll of the dice... Depending on who made the decals it could be a simple soap solution used as the glue, others would use a milk solution, it's the milk solution that seems to dry up and flake off over time... Let me know if the cricut machine works in cutting the stencils that would be the best way to deal with it then paint them on... (I've been thinking about acquiring a stencil cutter) -
Vincent Black Shadow by CDW - Revell - 1:12 Scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
They haven't yellowed yet so that is excellent, but it does look like the adhesive holding them to the paper has gone south... Micro Liquid Decal Film 1oz from microscale... I've used it on some old decals where the glue got to the point of attaching the decal to the backing permanently.... (it takes three times longer to soak them off, usually they fracture into a million pieces) It worked on most of them.... My first suggestion is take a close up photo of the sheet to use as artwork in case you have to have them printed by a decal print shop... (there are several good ones on the net) Then, try the decal film on them and see if it works, the film holds the decal together so it doesn't fracture when going thru the slower process of applying.... Above all go slow and use patience, they probably can be recovered...
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Interesting, but although it might have been unknown to the ground troops, the high command and fighter command sure as heck knew about them.... There are several reasons that the knowledge of these flights was kept secret... #1 was the state of radar development at the time which was a more closely guarded secret than the Manhattan project... #2 was the estimated effectiveness of the intelligence gathered, not very effective as the video commentator admits... To be honest, the overlord operation placed 1.6 million troops ashore with all their equipment in under two months, there was no army on earth that could have stopped such an operation once the beachhead was established... #3 The missions came randomly chosen, completely inconsistent times of day, there was no way to plan an interception, and believe me they had the assets to intercept such flights, but from leaving the ground they were gone before the interceptors could get there... The High command made an operational decision that it just wasn't worth the effort to intercept them... The Germans had a perfect photographic record of their destruction, I'm sure they were overjoyed....
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Part 47, bushing the screw allows easy play side to side and up and down of only a few thou and no longitudinal axial play, a true floating nut... The bushing keeps the hardened screw thread from grinding on the softer saddle...
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They want you to use a bushing in the feed screw hole to align the thread hole on the nut... very delicate work for the material sizes you are working in... Personally I would like you have, carefully machine the hole as close to center as you can and float the nut... but then I would change the design to accommodate a floating nut... What you came up with will work, but I would bush the screw to prevent any wear on the contact parts.....
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Amazing work indeed! Brother, that's majic wand stuff... {chuckle}
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F4-D Phantom - Dumas - FINISHED - 1/25 Scale
Egilman replied to rvchima's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice, VERY Nice..... Difficult plane to build in Balsa & Tissue..... -
Beautiful work brother, very happy to see you back at it.... Not too much longer for me as well...
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Curtiss BF 2C-1 by CDW - FINISHED - Hasegawa - 1:32 scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I always considered the Yella wings as a flying advertisement for the Navy.... They are beautiful aircraft.... Very well done my friend.... Looks the part... -
Curtiss BF 2C-1 by CDW - FINISHED - Hasegawa - 1:32 scale
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
According to Wiki the Sara was the only carrier assigned BF2C-1's..... "The only U.S. Navy units to operate the F11C-2 were the Navy's famous "High Hat Squadron", VF-1B, aboard the carrier Saratoga, and VB-6 was briefly assigned to Enterprise." But there is photographic evidence that they were flown off both the Ranger and the Lexington as well... When the Goshawk was assigned to VB-6 from the Enterprise, they never actually reached the point of deployment, so they never actually flew off the Enterprise operationally... -
Well Done my friend....
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Yep, the last time I bought any was at a local airport, (and I had to tip the attendant a 20 to fill the four 5 gallon cans) several decades ago... Wasn't supposed to sell it for auto use... Regulations you know...
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Definitely the look of a late '60's gasser.... (now where is the 120 octane) Well done..
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Honda RC166 Grand Prix Racer by CDW - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/12
Egilman replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Motorcycles are supposed to look fast, (even if they aren't) THIS looks fast.... (and was in real life) Could you do us a favor? step over to it and start it up so we can hear the engine.... Really, really beautiful job.... -
Your on it... pre June '44 configuration... Also they didn't backdate aircraft in the field when they made the change to all black... (the scheme was production only going forward) I agree, the aircraft in the Museum is probably a postwar aircraft.... Nice pics...
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Well the Typhoon and Tempests were being developed in the period where the allies were trying to figure out what was best for cockpit colors.. The RAF along about early 44 decided that all black was best over black panels over a green interior, the USAAF decided and agreed to the same in mid '45, this is why you see Black panels over a Green interior in USAAF aircraft up to the end of the war... I did the research during my Sabre build where the question arose in how they went from Black over Green to all Black, then to Black over Grey... For some reason they thought all black was a good thing.... {chuckle} Most every pilot I've chatted with says all black is not a good thing, for the pilot that is... All black cockpit is a strong indicator of a late war/post war RAF aircraft...
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Hey Jav, take a look at this page.... And it's a Mk 5, looks all black with a green seat....
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Good idea, give it a rest... this has happened to many of us I suspect... Like my Sabre, just getting ready to finish it and I dropped it onto it's landing gear... Fortunately, the damage was minor... You got this one brother, come back to it when you are less frustrated at it... Your too close to finishing a beauty for it to stop you now.... Onwards!!!!
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Looking forward to it....
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US 6” gun by RGL - FINISHED - Panzer Concepts
Egilman replied to RGL's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
My pleasure brother, I'm glad it helped....
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