Egilman

Well another failure.... This time too many supports for a very delicate print.... It broke, both of them.... This is what I'm trying to print.... It's paper thin on the petals & sepals... Figuring if I can get this printed successfully I've done something... Getting closer....

I set up the current print with Lychee, yes it supports the Mono X, but it changes the lift spec from Photon Workshop, drops it from 2mm/sec to 1mm/sec this effectively makes a 4 hour print into an 8 hour print... It is noticeable right away when you start the part printing.... Slicers; (and my experiences) Photon Workshop: Anycubic's slicer is kinda basic, and you have to hunt for info cause it isn't intuitave.... ChituBox: Elegoo's Slicer is kinda techy, much like a full bore 3D program, it has a learning curve, and it bailed out on me a couple of times... Hard to find reliable info on how to effectively use it... Lychee: Comes to us from Mango 3D, a producer of 3D printer op systems and motherboards... It is based upon the Mango Slicer, a proprietary slicer software that can be modified to suit any Printer Manufacturers specifications.... Lychee is very intuitive.... (although it requires a Mango 3D account and e-mail verification, it is free) It took me just a few minutes to figure it out..... The first two left me asking questions and searching for info on the web... The third I had figured out and up and running in a few minutes.... This nube will recommend it, (Lychee) over the other two, but bear in mind, I've only 1.5 successful prints under my belt so take it for what it's worth... If your new to this, give it a try, I don't think you will be disappointed... Another 4 hours till the rose print is finished... I will do pics of the finishing process... EG

Well, My first print failure... The rose failed to stay attached to the print plate.... My Mistake... Not enough supports..... Second try starts now.... Should be done in 8 hours.... Hopefully, two steps forward for every step backwards... {chuckle}

They'll become available eventually... The generic Chinese manufacturers are just beginning to discover the 1/64th scale market that Mijo stumbled across... They are already beginning to market the nudies in that scale on evilbay... That tells me the figures in that scale are here to stay for a while.... Gaming is a niche of what is actually possible, it's a big market yes, but a small fraction of the entire market... and currently desktop 3D printing is dominated by them, over the next ten years that is going to change as the tech spreads out to other areas and people find out just how useful it is going to become... Heavy industry has been using 3D composite additive manufacturing for 50 years, resins for 70 years, 3D printing is just an easier cheaper way to do what they have been doing all along... Once it finishes breaking out of the manufacturing scheme, (it already has) it will explode over many industries.... (creating some, destroying others) It's the nature of technological advancement....

1/64 scale figures.... Not a problem.. https://www.ebay.com/b/1-64-Figures/180506/bn_7023455365 Simple google search, you probably would have to doctor a few into the poses you want.... (on a 3D printer, you can make them any scale you want just find the files) I hovered over a year on the Mono X the recent $200.00 drop in price tripped it for me.... From what I hear, middle of next year for DLP from Anycubic, (that's an estimated time) also the print standards will only be marginally better than MSLA.... (I think it is speculation cause the info really hasn't been officially released yet, but there is this ideal floating around in the heads of our younger crowds that newer is always better, that belief keeps the cell phone makers & car manufacturers in business) I've read some fora where the manufacturers are already considering the future of filament printing now that high resolution resin printing is the cutting edge and prices are dropping..... Still a lot of flux in the industry and gambling, the one thing for sure is it is the future and it's coming quickly....

Any suggestions on where to read up on it Patrick? One of the biggest problems with learning to do this is the absolute plethora of conflicting opinions being posted all over the net... Using IPA isn't an issue except for the cost for some of us on limited incomes.... Nice tire, which printer are you using?

I've had no smell whatsoever from the Anycubic resin, and the admiral who is sensitive to such hasn't either... Of course the IPA smells like a medical wound care ward when the wash tank is opened but it dissipates quickly.... (and is a non toxic cleaner disinfectant, safe as long as you don't drink it) I too am eventually going to go to waterbased resin as well... 2 gal of IPA is $25 from wally world.... (sold in quarts) Water comes from the faucet for pennies a gallon... I believe that WB resins are about 25% cheaper than their industrial cousins as well... Yeah, I saw that site, lotsa models most of them free, some of them very, very nice... Predominantly for gamers though like most of the 3D file sites are... And that French cannon setup would be perfect for say a Waterloo diorama/vignette.... Thanks for the link, I'll add it to my collection of links...

That is an interesting piece, but it's not a subject I'm interested in unfortunately... (but, miniature figures are the biggest draw to 3D modeling at this time) I'm more into traditional modeling of real world things... And I've found a test piece that fits all the conditions I set up for my second test.... A rose, (in Anycubic's slicer) I'm doing two of them at the same time, they will have parts that need to be glued together... A better test of my intentions... The Anycubic test cube has finished and has been washed and is getting it's final UV cure..... Complete and sitting on my desk.... This is the neatest thing since the Exacto knife..... Damn impressive if you ask me... I've got the rose printing now, another 4 hr print, the turnaround from finish to starting the next print is all of abut 15 minutes and that was my first time... I'm very impressed... A very easy process.... EG

The promised update when I could actually see what it's doing... Clear Resin, absolutely amazing.... A shot of the LED's doing their thing.... I know I'm gonna have fun doing this... Half way through, 1.5 hours to go before washing and curing.... (still praying that it doesn't fail) EG

Well yesterday, my Resin arrived from Anycubic, as well as my backup resin order from Amazon... She is happily printing away on the test subject.... Got my finners crossed that it finishes correctly.... Yes resin prints can fail as well as FDM prints.... About three more hours to go... Here's a pretty good youtube video of the setup process Setting up the Anycubic MONO X Shows the process in the clearest presentation I've been able to find.... Currently looking for a piece that I can grab online to do a test print and assembly to give it a try in actual glue together modeling.... Maybe something Sci Fi with several pieces or something like that.... Will update this when I can show actual evidence of it working.... The Wash & Cure is set up with 1.75 gal, (6.624 liters, takes a maximum of 8.5 liters) of 91% alcohol ready to go.... Will report on that as well... EG

Good question... I don't think I have any good answers.. Wish I did.... Outside the initial cost factor, you have to decide how big your going to build... What scales your going to be working in and what type of projects.... Think towards the largest single part you will need towards what your going to build... Get it's measured size in real life, down scale it to your working scale, and buy build volume accordingly... One of the advantages of larger build volume is you can make repetitive parts in one printing, you need a dozen of a certain part you can do it in one print rather than a dozen separate prints... That's my situation, I'm going to need a dozens of tall parts that are identical or close to identical, that measure around 8" so a 9.5" print height is required... The Mono X will print a dozen of those all at once easily... That how I reasoned it out.... It all depends on what you want to do with it....

Hi Jacek, I need the larger build area specifically cause I'm going to be building one of these...... Easiest way is to 3D print it rather than scratchbuild it.... 1/72nd scale to fit the Dragon Saturn V.... But first, I have to create the files..... Big mountain to climb....

Hi Henry, Phew, Thingiverse.... What a mess.... Everyone says get something from Thingiverse, most suggest a particular Eiffel Tower..... High res of course, problem is no one provides a link to it.... and there are 600 pages of Eiffel Towers... Some look great some not so great... There are several online you tube walkthroughs of Chitubox and how to use it but I haven't found one yet that hasn't put me to sleep.... Reminds me of Blender in the early days, trying to find useful info that is presented well is a challenge..... You would think that something that is this revolutionary would now have a source of good verifiable info easily available after what 5 years? I think the biggest difficulty in getting into this is finding good reliable info... Thanks for the offer of help, I will be asking questions when I run into problems and will post my solutions, (with linkage) when I discover them... Still trying to figure out the workflow to getting from an STL file output from whatever software, (in my case solidworks) to a finished print... New mountains to climb.... {chuckle} Right now I just want to get the printer working and make sure there is nothing wrong with it.... once I get the print-wash-cure process down, I'll start working on fine tuning the process... A door to a big huge world is opening, and I still have to get through the door... All help is appreciated... EG

Thanks Ron, I bookmarked this for future reference... I'm very familiar with how brittle resin is in general....

Hi Mike, I went with the Mono X for it's build area of 192x120x245... Anycubic didn't respond to my email about the missing resin today, probably take a couple of days so I went ahead and ordered a liter from amazon... I've downloaded Chitobox free and see I have another learning process to go thru... Right now, I just want to get this up and running.... I will probably turn to water based resins eventually once I learn a bit more to save the costs of large quantities of IPA... I think even with water based resins the Wash & Cure will be an asset to keep things efficient.... Then I have to create something.... The Admiral is waiting..... {chuckle}

Well, My Anycubic Mono X finally arrived today, (2 days late after a 1k miles side trip around southern California) along with it's accompanying Wash & Cure Plus...... Unfortunately, the 1 kg of resin that was supposed to be delivered with it didn't arrive.... I hope Anycubic is as good as the reviews say they are and they get it out quickly.... So until then, I'm still waiting... Will say more when there is something to say... {chuckle} EG

2021 SP3 There's a newer version out there now...

I'll be talking about it Craig, once it gets here and I've had a chance to set it up.... Still need to finish my Solidworks courses... (as life allows) But I think I'm making progress..... For example.... A Sunseeker Predator 108 in Solidworks..... I think I'm learning something..... I'll keep everyone informed... (and stop hijacking the thread)

It was a combo deal direct from Anycubic... got the Mono X and the Wash n Cure 2 as well... The build cube is 7.5"w x 4.5"d x 9.5"t ... The Elegoo Saturn has the same build cube volume... DLP is the coming thing, FormLabs is already out there with it for commercial use... (at a commercial price tag as well, well north of $4,000) but it will eventually get here... Mine hasn't arrived yet, It shipped from Chino CA, the Anycubic warehouse, shipped by FedEx, after almost 1K miles and a weeks time it arrived at Lodi CA ..... (20 miles down the freeway) {chuckle} Currently is is in Happy Valley OR, and two days late.... I hope it gets here before the next millennium passes.... Your work is impressive my friend, that wheel looks nice, and you printed it in clear, probably gonna be asking questions eventually... I'm a complete 100% newbie to 3D printing.... It's gonna be a trip....

Here are the two instructions, it is plain that they obtained the F-4E by adding new parts for the nose, an extension for the gun section, a new radar fairing and nose tube.... F-4J (pdf) F-4E (pdf) Essentially the same model assembled in the same way with extra parts for the E version....

Just to make sure.... Here is a comparison of the F-4E profile with the FG.1 profile .. (FG.1 is the Royal Navy's F-4C/J) Clearly the nose is 6 feet longer..... (the most noticeable variation, there are others though on close examination.... Probably the best site for detailed scale info on the F-4's various profiles is this.... Wings of Pegasus.... Great site for modeling various aircraft....

Truth of the matter is, these kind of announcements are made from time to time, and never come to fruition..... But I will keep my eye out... every one knows the deficiencies of the Phantom II Models currently out there now, even the vaunted Tamiya Phantom has it's own accuracy issues... (there are a lot of rivet counters out there still) I think you would need 18 or so individual kits to represent the entire design chain... When has that ever happened to any subject? It's what keeps the aftermarket business busy... Most of the time we are lucky to get one or two variations on a subject and are left to our own devices to make them accurate to what we want to put on our shelf...

I know it is, You know it is, Everyone who is familiar with the various F-4 variations know it is brother... You also mentioned it earlier in the thread.... What I was referring to is the Revell F-4E is derived off their earlier F-4J molds.... So the Sparrows are the same molding my friend... That is why they fit like a glove.... I sure wasn't alluding that you didn't know what your talking about... I sincerely apologize if it felt that way....

No problem Dan, it's what we do here... I would go with the info from that discussion as they probably have a thousand times more info than I do.... I know enough to know that there is no definitive info on what the colors were specifically so no one can say your wrong, which one of the authors says himself.... (although he did confirm the BMF and Grey colors on most of the Russian aircraft in Russian service and that the BMF applied was really painted BMF not actual BMF) Also, that although there were rules and specifications for painting one must remember that it was left to the best judgment of the people in the field to mix the paints to get the specified colors..... Which means you can pretty much come up with any color combination if you don't have the specific ratios used... The authors and researchers also covered that issue as well... And I just found another source and has some very grainy shots of a Russian aircraft in Korea sporting a paint job that at least in greytone pattern is similar to the one posted by Popeye..... And that's the problem with postwar, (WWII) soviet aircraft coloration, there just isn't sufficient images commonly available to make color decisions on and B&W greytone is nothing to ever judge colors by without documentation..... I would go the same way it appears you have already decided, from the best info available... Thank you for the link, it's leading to even more info for my archives....

Tamiya's first 1/32nd F-4 was in '95.... Academy just released a new tooling one this year..... It's definitely not a Japanese or Italian product, it felt American in it's assembly... It was like assembling the Revell F-4E without the chin gun..... Wait a sec.... Yep it's a Revell, 1972 new release, F-4J Phantom Kit H-188.... I'll be damned, That's why the '74 F-4E's sparrows fit so well... They are the same kit.... {chuckle} Strange thing is, back then Revell always molded copyrite info inside one of the fuselage halves, I specifically looked for such and it wasn't there...... Someone must have cleaned it off when they took all the parts off the sprues cause it just wasn't there.... Well, now we know.... I built the F-4E way back in the early '80's that's probably why it felt so familiar and went together so easy, I had already built one before... In fact the lack of a chin gun is how I decided it was a "J" model.... My rookie model childhood is coming back to haunt me.....