drjeckl

Hi guys.  Had to take a physical health break for a while.  Getting a little better but probably won't begin to resume still for a couple of months.

Thanks for the kind words...John

He put the LN on hold and started building the Sphinx.

I think the breeching line should have a connection to each of the side of the carriage, thru a ring-connected-to an-eyelet in the side of the carriage.

17 hours ago, JGoff said:

I believe there were only 8 of those short/partial videos on the Amati websit

Sorry, I was referring to Amati's FB location where I found around 20.  Yeah, my point was only use that site to see things being accomplished, not necessarily how to do it.

17 hours ago, JGoff said:

explanation and demonstration of fairing

Have you gone through the https://modelshipworld.com/forum/14-building-framing-planking-and-plating-a-ships-hull-and-deck/ forum?  Very good place to start.  Plus YouTube.

17 hours ago, JGoff said:

Now I did not do a taper on the first plank

I did not taper my 1st plank.

17 hours ago, JGoff said:

It might be prudent to start keeping a separate journal to record good information

Just bookmark it.

17 hours ago, JGoff said:

went ahead and glued the outside stern counter frames

Not sure this was a good idea since all builds I've seen have this coming after the first planking.  Not that your taking an alternate path may still work; it's only the 1st planking.  But being a rookie, such as I am, taking alternate paths may lead to alternate destinations.  Best to take the worn path.

Here's something I cooked and posted in Kirby's LN log that may give you some idea, after you have a tapering plan, Post 19:

Listen, I appreciate where you may have been a bit stand-offish after installing the bulkheads from taking the more difficult path, the 1st planking, and installed the frames.  But at this point, you have no choice but to start it, so jump in.  What's the worst thing that can happen?  You eventually have to rip it and others off and have to start over?  Happened to me and I'm sure others.  But I got through it and I'm finished painting (2 coats primer, 3 coats of paint; photos not yet posted) my double-planked hull.  Check some of my posts in the Framing,... forum.  The best I like is:

Yeah, I got around that.

Again, all I'm saying is have a plan and then execute it.  And don't stray to far from the worn path.  You can do it.

Jonathon, Welcome aboard MSW and to the LN builders.  One caution on those Amati videos (there are about 20 of them).  The guy doing the build, was Leon Griffiths from Model Shipyard, a master builder.  I followed most of his techniques rather than those found here, to my detriment.  After getting myself in a hole (needed to rip off the first 5 planks, port and starboard, of the first planking) the advice I got here straightened me out.  What I'm saying is Leon didn't explain to the detail I needed and probably you will need also.  I thoroughly read several times some of the experienced builder's LN logs, including Glenn's.  Take your time and really understand what they writing about before you try it yourself.  It will save you a lot of aggravation, which you have already experienced.

I've been on medical leave since September but may get back into the big show in a month or so.  But take a read on Freezing Parrott's LN Build log, 

post #2, where I gave him some places to go to get the information that I found extremely helpful.  And poke about some of the other forums that deal with specific topics in the Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research section.  And the best advice passed down to me here and I'll pass it to you is: Treat every single item you do (bulkhead, plank, etc.) as a separate project, and do your best on each of those projects, and you'll be fine.  Good luck.

Glenn, Here's a little tip I use when the construction manual is available on-line, preferably as a PDF.  Pull it down into Acrobat and search (Ctl-F) for the text string you want to find.  If it's there, it gets highlighted.  It doesn't help if the only spot for that text is on the rigging plans, but if it's in the on-line manual, it at least may give you a start.

The ship is looking pretty good.  Keep up the good work.

I'm building the LN, my first build, and I followed Vossie's log as my bible.  I was also extremely disappointed that he dropped off this site; too bad.

Glad to see you back at it.  I thought we lost you.

20 hours ago, allanyed said:

For what size ship, era and nation doeshe show a double set of training tackle? 

Did not specify; it was generic.  And again, Allan, thanks for the background.

Thank you gents, especially Mark, for the enlightenment; very interesting.  Mastini shows two train tackles in addition to the side tackles and the breeching rope.

Allan, Thanks for the update.  Yes, still working on the LN.  Maybe I'll just eliminate the training tackle.  Could be why I don't see many of the modelers here show it.  I just see those empty rings in the middle of the deck.

Allan,

Thanks for that.  I must remember to be more specific phrasing my question.  I've seen the frapping for the side tackles.  I specifically was curious how the lines for the train tackles were stowed, since they cross a portion of the deck.  Would they be frapped in the same manner as you show above?

Thanks.

On 8/22/2021 at 8:56 PM, Bob Cleek said:

Once the ship's dress was struck, they were returned to their proper stowed coil configuration.

What does this look like?  I've mostly seen the Flemish coils.

I finally got to prime the hull below the waterline on my Lady Nelson.  I thought I had a pretty tight second planking but the grey primer shows that there were some gaps between planks, but it shows that the walnut planks provided with the kit are very porous.  See below:

Two questions:

1. Is a second coat of primer needed?
2. Should I fill in the gaps in the planks with filler?  And then prime again or will the final coats of white be enough?  I'm interested in seeing the wood through the waterline painting but not sure how it will look.  Any appropriate photos out there?

Thanks...jce

Nice work on the waterway!  And nice use of the outline of the false deck to work your margin plank.  Coming along good.

I haven't built my first pair of anchors yet, but in all the build logs I've read, for their anchors they glue the two pieces of the stock together without the shank in between.  Then they drill a hole in the combined piece to fit the shank in.  The technique does not leave showing the gap between the two pieces of stock that your solution does.  Question: Is there an intention in doing it the way your are?  Just asking.  Beautiful work on the Cheerful so far.

Looks good.  Take your time finishing it off.  Treat each plank as a separate project and focus on the details,

I highly recommend getting a travel iron for the edge bending.  The following is popular here:

So that's why your photos look so good...You're making a book of them.  Ahhh...yes!  Nice companion to the build.

The amount of tapering at each end should be derived from the width you need based on the number of planks in and the width of each band.  I had two bands, 7 and 8 x planks.  The 7 x plank band, the top-most, did have tapering at both ends, the 8 x plank band had tapering only at the bow end since I needed the full plank width to fill in that stern area.

As to the edge bending, the practice is that one needn't soak the plank before using the iron.  After you set the plank under the clamps, just dip your finger into the water source and rub it over the area you're bending.  That's all you need to do.

And I agree with Paul; just glue the broken pieces together and sand down the seam,  And who cares whether they were supposed to left unpainted or not.  I actually planked the stern counter and it looks nice.  Be creative!

Jacek,

I had the same problem, clinkering, with my LN.  I was advised by the more experienced builders here to watch Chuck Passaro's video's on planking, especially the 3rd one on edge bending of the planks.  Once I started doing that, the clinkering was drastically diminished.  I highly recommend that you watch them.  You can get the link from here:

Yeah, OC, you're still going to have the exhaust issue, whether the booth is handmade or pre-fab.  I would find out if there are non-exhaust hose solutions out there.

You may be able to get extensions of the exhaust hose to bring it to the closest window.

I have the Master Airbrush version of this model and it works great.  And if you have to paint something that is longer than what will fit, you can get and attach a 2nd unit.

BE, been following about mid-stream during this build.  Wonderful job, a real beauty; oh, the queen too.  And after you finished, just for kicks,  I did your Pegasus log, end-to-end.  Took me, well lets just say, a while.  Just couldn't believe all the things you found that were questionable about that kit.  And how you fairly easily pivoted to what was legitimate for that time.  And at the end, the recovery process; wow.  I particularly liked the way you used your crew to validate something, like the footropes.  I said, I needed that.  Went to Shapeways and bought a 6-person aloft crew.

Again, outstanding on the Barge, the beautiful model and the great log.  Thank you for sharing.