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drjeckl

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Everything posted by drjeckl

  1. Gary, This ask was relative to shifting a hatch location. My thought was, in a single deck build, does it matter if you cut out the deck planks over the cutouts or just build the fittings over where they should go, with, if it's hatches going over the space, make sure to black paint the deck under them. This affected how I built out the deck planking. What I was concerned about was that deck planks would not be supported by the false deck because the false deck holes had expanded. As I built it, I marked, with pin holes, where the cutouts were centered. In fact, the only cutout I nee
  2. Matt, yes that was my concern. I've seen that caution several times here. I'll take a look at your logs. Thanks. Amazon has it: Figured that PVA would have better adhesion over this product. All, since this is my first build, I did not want to chance that I would screw up with installing anything but a full size deck plank. And there are numerous topics on MSW regarding simulating plank butt edges. But you're probably right, I should abandon that idea. Maybe next build I'll install accurate size planks. I'll probably just add one train
  3. Searcher, I'm in the same (no pun intended) boat, the Lady Nelson. And I had the same issues you had with the first planking. I was pointed to the definitive site videos here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ . The key one is the 3rd I think, where Chuck shows how to edge-bend the planks. It puts a curve into the plank that when bent in the normal sense, it lays right on top of the forward bulkheads. Yeah, I also followed Leon, but after 5 x planks, I reached for help from the wizards around here. They convinced me to start ove
  4. Wow, it's been exactly 5 months since my first and only log post. Since then, I've posted in a couple of specific forums for certain issues that I probably could have posted here; either/or! Anyway, I think I've made decent progress: After laying 5 x planks with fairly miserable results, I sought advice and was convinced to restart. From this: To successfully completed first planking: The secret technique I was missing was Chuck Passaro's plank edge-bending process. What a difference! Check out his videos on this. I haven't yet migrated to his techni
  5. Thanks for the tips guys. I guess I wasn't very specific when posting this (I'll learn, I promise). My scale is 1/64, 1800 British cutter, and I'm planning on using one full length kit plank per strake and simulate the butts (I've already laid out a 5-butt pattern) with one of the numerous techniques posted on MSW (not sure which one will work for me; this is my first ship model)! So with the sheer of the deck, the issue is how to hold the plank tight to the false deck while the PVA sets. The best I can come up with is push pins and like I said, I need 7 pins to hold it tight. I will try
  6. I'm planning on using PVA glue to install the deck planks over the false deck; just want the extra time to lay them in tight. With the slight curved bow in the false deck, from stem to stern, with the low point at midships, the question is how to hold the deck planks tight to the false deck while the glue sets? I used push pins to hold the edge of the margin planks down tight when they went in. For the king plank I need 7 x pins to hold it down. If I use push pins for every deck plank, the false deck becomes Swiss cheese, But who really cares; it's covered by the deck planks. Just wonderi
  7. Thank you to everyone who contributed to this topic. I know it helped me and I'm sure other first time builders as well. .John
  8. Here's a pix of Vossiewulf's finished deck: If you look at the middle hatch, he suggested moving it closer to the stern to allow the the eyebolts and rings to be moved closer to the center, stretching out the training tackle. So that's what I am going to do. Now go back and read my dilemma from above. VTHokiEE: Thanks for your comments; yeah I will paint one with black wheels. I this it will look better than all red. .John
  9. Wefalck: The LN was never a ship. It is Amati's version of a typical HM Cutter, circa 1803 and based on the Sherbourne class of cutters and yes, very small. Druxey: Yes, exactly. Not can I duplicate how it was built in the real world but how can I, as a modeler, replicate what was built. And based on the drawings in this thread, I think I would tweak my original sketch, by raising the spirketting plank, and moving the waterway (now a trapizoid instead of a triangle) and the margin plank against the bulwark planks, under the spirketting plank. See below: Feedback on this ap
  10. Mark, not sure of what you mean. do you mean that the triangle I'm showing as a triangle is actually adjacent to the bulwark planks? Where does the spirketting plank(s) go? Hear is an adjusted drawing: Gary, what you're showing in Figure 1 is basically that what I'm showing as the Margin Plank and the Waterway is one piece. That may have been the case back then but most of the MSW build logs I've reviewed have it as two separate planks. How have you dealt with this? ...John
  11. I'm getting ready to install the deck for my Lady Nelson (1803, 1:64) and I've been looking throughout MSW for a concise layout for what's at the edges of the deck. All I've found are historical drawings and there are no instructions in the kit. From the historical drawings, I drew what I think I should build, shown below. Would appreciate any comments...John
  12. Two questions for my Lady Nelson (1803) build: 1. Are Deck Cutouts Actually Needed? The LN is a single deck build. Other than the hole for the mast, the deck layout has 4 x square cutouts; 3 x for hatches and 1 for a companionway. Taking Vossiewulf's suggestion on moving one of the hatches to make room to relocate a deck cannon training tackle eyebolt, and in fact move all of those eyebolts closer to the center of the deck, I extended that deck cutout without planning ahead on how to support the deck planks (8) that would extend over the portion of the cutout that I was abandoning
  13. Wefalck and Roger, Thanks for your input. My Amati Lady Nelson kit came with metal gun carriages as well as the guns (alloy not specified). Wasn't sure if I needed to apply a primer before the final color acrylic paint. Assuming I prep these parts with some acetone with a water rinse, sounds like I could skip the primer paint to avoid an extra coat. Thanks...John
  14. Haven't seen this topic yet here. So, is it necessary/advisable to prime metal gun carriages, anchors or any other metal pieces, other than any brass or copper parts (I'm planning to Brass Black all those (eyelets, rings, deadeye straps, chain plates, rigging hooks, rudder hinge straps))? John
  15. Thomas, Got it. Your explanation and the sketch nailed it. The light bulb is lit! Thank you so much. .John
  16. Thomas, Thanks for your writeup. I have and been using most of all the tools you mentioned, except the proportional dividers. Based on the topics I've seen here on this tool, I think I get how they are used. The post by mikiek gave me the insight to these. Question: Are the less expensive plastic PDs, which just let you do proportions in whole numbers, good enough for their use in planking? Would hate to spring for the more expensive metal PDs if planking would be their only use. Also, for the edge bending, would a set of french curves be useful? Barkeater: Thanks on which ed
  17. Jan, that's what I did, put the tapered edge next to the previous plank, so the non-tapered edge was at the bottom. Oh well, I thought I had something there. I will probably dry fit a couple of planks both ways and see if there is any difference. Diadeczek, The reason I put the math up there is that from all the planking docs read/videos seen over the past 3 weeks, there was nothing that concisely, put everything together about how to determine how much to taper and where to do it. There was always something like "divide by 1/8 inc.....", not divide by the width of the plank. O
  18. I think I see what the main problem I had, other than letting the planks go where they wanted to go. When I installed each plank, I put the tapered edge to the top and the non-tapered, straight edge at the bottom. From all the drawings I've looked at in the past three days, it appears that the non-taped edge went to the top. So did I have that wrong? And that's why I got what I got? I never saw anything written about that issue. I specifically checked on the videos from the Amati build logs to confirm that and I could have sworn I saw the non-tapered edge at the bottom. Maybe I missed t
  19. Being a math major, I needed to layout the math behind what you all have advised, what I've read in the planking tutorials and the Lady Nelson build log by vossiewulf, which I read for the 3rd time last night, this time in full detail. So here goes: Comments appreciated...John
  20. Gents, Thanks for your advice. My mentor on the build was Leon Griffiths from The Modellers Shipyard with his videos up on the Amati Facebook site. I followed his planking technique, which is different that what's up on the MSW tutorials. I've been reading these again and going through, for the 2nd time, the LN build log by vossiewulf, which IMO is an exceptional tutorial (curious why he didn't finish). I am going to start over, with probably the exception being the first plank, which was pretty tough to get in. Fortunately, I do have enough spare planks. Thanks...John
  21. Jan, I will try that technique going forward. How do you think I should resolve my current situation with the first 5 planks in position? Pull them off and start over? Keep filling in the gaps? This is my first build so I don't know the ramifications of filling in the gaps. Thanks for your advice...John
  22. It appears that during the beveling of the bulkheads for the first planking of the Lady Nelson, I've removed too much material. I think that, because I have significant gaps between consecutive planks. This issue is only in the bow, as the planks at midships and the stern lay in tight. It's not as prominent in the pictures because I already plugged some of the big gaps with slivers of scraps. See below. Top View: Front view: Side View: It's somewhat hard to see but the planks are laying flat on the bulkheads. I figured I could resol
  23. Kevin, I went through all the logs for that build and didn't find anything specific. I searched this forum and found nothing. I googled this topic's text and found one with CA. The MS builder in the Amati video logs recommended epoxy. I got nutin'. John
  24. Newbe here. I'm building the Amati Lady Nelson and I'm ready to attach the 3 x pieces that make up the real keel to the "false keel" that the bulwark frames are attached to. My question is what type of glue should I use to attach them? I've seen articles/discussions that include epoxy, CA and PVA. Amati Instructions don't specify. Also, I have not seen any discussion on the application of epoxy or PVA. If it's CA, that's fairly obvious. Also, if there is a gap between the rudder post part of the real keel and the stern edge of the false keel as a result of beveling the deadwo
  25. So the journey begins. I'd been planning on getting into building model ships and what better excuse than the quarantine to start? After some online research, I picked the Amati Lady Nelson. Then I needed tools. I basically had nothing since I had downsized into a small cottage from a 4-bedroom house and had to sell/giveaway most every tool I had accumulated over 30 years. Boy, it wasn't cheap to restock and I included a starter airbrushing kit from Master Airbrush and a spray booth. Was not willing to brush paint all what needed to be painted. Also, it was a scramble to get tools; most
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