ScottRC
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Everything posted by ScottRC
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Jay, Thanks for the tutorials. I started making coils last night instead of what I should be working on, and that is to work up the nerve to rig the jeers and stays on my Connie. -
Hi Jerry, Thanks for posting, I have followed your builds both here and I think on RCU and have been inspired to someday try an RC square rigger. Scott
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Good kit to start out on. I notice you are using Tamiya paints, which are very good. Do you have their "Mr. Surfacer" primer? I would suggest washing all the parts in a warm water with a mild detergent, then once dry, giving everything a light coat of primer and you will find your model will be much easier to paint.
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Had some time this morning while waiting for someone to get ready for school, so I put on the first wash of dove gray. Went on pretty light and I also noticed my camera flash setting was not correct. A few more coats and then some weathering. I also added the bridle catchers to the bow. Unlike the Revel kit, the Renwal kit didn't have them molded in.
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This is the goal. Front page from the Cruise Book.
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And now its time to dry for awhile. There is still some blending to do then round three will be adding the gray wash to lighten things up. Then the fun begins in adding the details.
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Then wipe with a lint free cloth, keeping with the grain of the wood. Just like staining eh? Well, same principle, except we just make a plasitc base simulate wood and now we are doing the staining and weathering process.
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I would first spread the mixture with the grain across the flight deck with a very soft, thik brush. Covering the entire flight deck.
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started round two of color washes on the flight deck. The goal is to get a look of gray stained weathered pine soaked with salt, oil, and aviation fuel. Round one was light washes of light uniform blue, burnt sienna, and lamp black mixed.
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Nice build. I have the Scientific Sea Witch that I want to start someday. I am to understand you stained the lower hull? I am interested in doing this instead of painting or using copper. BTW, keep adding detail until you feel you cannot add anymore. That is the key to enjoying this hobby. Scott
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And at present I have added the base coat to the flight deck. The flight deck color for this period is unique in that the ship left the yard with the flight deck only stained. It was later painted with a non-skid dark gray. So, like the Oriskany, I will be doing the painting starting with a base coat followed with washes of blue, gray, and black.
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Picture of the side of the hull
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I have now started the painting process. First was the overall gray with the black boot stripe. when this kit was released, it was common to have them with flat bottoms. The explanation was that it was part due to Defense Department censoring and part for the ease for children to sail across the living room floor. I plan to build up the base and put the hull in a sea of Gesso, like my Oriskany.
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The planes that came with the kit are all Cougars, which were perfect except the canopies will need a little work. I also got Banshees and AD's from Starfighter along with the correct squadron markings. The only planes I will be lacking will be the Cutlass.
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The one area that is lacking scale detail is the elevator. I scratch built these before and I'd rather tie ratlines all day then build another one. There is PE for these, but its out of my price range, so I may just leave it up and out of site and pray my OCD doesn't force me to make it right.
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Here was the progress up to last week. The kit was typical "toy scale" and had gaps that needed filling. It also lack detail and I am still contemplating how much Photo Etch and other details to add. I built the Oriskany a few years ago and I went overboard with the detailing to the extent it was no longer enjoyable to build. So this build I am just relaxing and having fun and will only go as far a I feel with the details.
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Back in November I posted in the Plastic Kits section about the re-release of the Renwal USS Shangi La and the Revell USS Hornet. These kits, other then a couple of resin short run releases, are the only representation of the Essex Class carrier in its modernized configuration. Both my brother and I built these as kids, but for the past twenty years these kits had been out of production. My father was on the Lexington for her first cruise after she was modernized, and in 1990 I kit bashed for him a model of the Lex in 1/700. The Renwal kit was a big surprise, because it matched the Lex to a Tee as she looked when she left the yard for shakedown in 1956, so I had to purchase it and try to make a larger model of the Lex for my father. Unfortunately, he passed away over Christmas and would never be able to see it. I decided to continue the build because my brother is building a shadow box to display his service medals, certificates, and burial flag and he wanted to put the ship in the shadow box. So, bear with me, I already started and do not have a lot of pictures as of yet, but will try to post as I go. Here is the kit
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Thanks, I will start a log, hopefully I can keep it up, I tend to forget to take pictures as I build.
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Great work. You are a very talented industrial modeler. Makes me long for when I was an engineering student before the days of 3D printers.
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Man Andy, great build. your making me want to build this kit and add it to my 1/96 Connie as well. Looks like a lot of fun and thanks for the build log. Scott
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Great job Andy, now maybe your fine work will keep me motivated to finish my Connie. Love the case. Scott
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I have been working on and off on this model. It had been kinda hard since my dad passed away a few days before Christmas and I was building this for him. But I started back up and now began the base coat of paint on the flight deck. Also picked up planes and decals from Starfighter. Still need to add railings and other details.
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The smaller ones had be heated next to an iron and formed to shape. I tend to now, as Jud said, use them as patterns and make them out of wooden dowels. The larger ones should be two-piece assemblies. With these, you can put a small steel, or wooden rod in them and glue the halves together. Makes sure to use a lot of clothes pins to clamp them down with.
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I am really enjoying this build and am glad you have been able to work through many of the issues for this kit. Learned a lot. Scott
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