ScottRC

I agree with the others comments on your water, you really nailed it.  Great effects. 

That is a remarkable piece of history, along with the sail from Victory.

Hello Steven,

Welcome the MSW, you really seem to have a good start on the Cuttysark.  I also have built it, along with all the other 1/96 Revell kits and would look forward to more postings of your build. In regards to the masts, these kits are notorious for the masts flexing.  I put steel rods in my lower masts and made all the upper parts out of wood using the plastic ones as templates.  It makes it a lot easier to rig.

Scott

John,

Excellent progress, you have a talent with the scale details.  Keep posting the progress on the masting, it seems we don't ever have enough logs at this stage.

Scott

Geejo,  I prefer to use tube cement or 30 minute epoxy to glue in the decks on the large Revell models.  I also prefer to glue the three sections together first and smooth out the joints and then install the deck as one piece.  To do this requires a glue that dry slow enough to allow for adjustments.  Epoxy won't run or harm the paint.  Keep a paper towel and rubbing alcohol nearby to wipe up any epoxy that ends up where you don't want it.

Overall the Minicraft kit isn't bad, its just that that there are seams that need to be filed and filled on the superstructure, and be sure to test fit fit. 

The Minicraft kit has fit issues with the superstructure.  The Dragon kit is better.  If your 1/350 is not too big, the Trumpeter kit is good.

Very well done!

Great start, I had a similar issue with warp with my Endeavor. 

I have some interest in this thread as well, I was given a nice 8" DIA x 12" piece from a friend who makes furniture and am really wanting to mill it up for a project. 

Hi Kevin,

I just wanted to let you know I enjoyed reading these 10 pages of your log and admire your work.

I love the work you are doing since I have a huge interest in small scales.

Thank you for sharing this interesting project with us. 

Nice repair, I know that feeling well, since I'm Kap't Klutz when it comes to moving my ships.  Knocked the bowsprit clean off both my mother's Thermopylae and my Alabama.  After all the rigging was done of coarse.

Matti,

Just checking in on your progress and all I can say is that it is beautiful.

Scott

Hello John,

Great log, nice to see this subject and it looks like its coming along nicely.

Scott

I think it was mine as well, and I made the sails from cloth.  Went together quite well.

Just found your log and really enjoyed it.

Scott

Great progress Omar, nice to see a build like this.

Are you going to use a shadow box, or will the diorama be open on all sides?  As src had said, this type of illusion is quite popular at theme parks, movie making, and museums and are fun to build.  I participated in a flight line diorama a number of years ago for a local museum and we used from 1/4 to 1/72 to show the perspective of looking out a window and actually feeling 1:1 with a row of planes lined up ready to take off. 

Welcome back Adrian, I know what you mean about getting too many thing going on at the same time.

Kenny,

I like the details you are providing. So, is your wife's work table next to yours or will you be getting some new tools for Christmas?

Chris,

Great progress.  Don't worry about the hull being joined, the decks will fit into it.  That was how I did mine.

Evergreen Plastic ( is great and comes in all shapes and sizes and comes in packages of about 6 to 20 pieces depending on the shape and size.  It is best to use Ambroid or Liquitex liquid cements with it or thin CA.  It is a styrene that is soft enough to cut and shape yet it is strong.  There are a few builds here and on FSM where modelers have redid all the deck furniture and framing with Evergreen.  I have used it a lot in kit bashing and scratch building a number of projects.

Scott

Great pics of the detail you have done in the framing.

Great progress on Sjors