
Phil Babb
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Hi all, I have come to the decision to sell my collection of approximately 800 naval and maritime , ship construction books. These I have built up over 45 years, a few date from the early 1880, some earlier, then through the years to some modern ones. I will only sell the whole collection, I will not split. If anyone is interested I can send, email a list. Regards Phil
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Thinning Paint
Phil Babb replied to Ed Gibbons's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
If your using a spirit based paint ,easy to tell by a good sniff, use pure gum turpentine to thin. not white spirit, it stops the feather edge you get with white spirit or turps. -
Hi Druxey and Gregory, I am building plank on frame, I have the drawings for the Sprightly, also I have been using the anatomy of ship on the Alert, I have now having spent a few days in my workshop on the model ,sorted the stern construction, at 3/16, its a model I have wanted to build for nigh on 40 years, part cutaway showing cabins etc and rigged. Iam at the age of should be retired but cannot give up work ,so hence I don't get into my smaller workshop to work on the model as much. Hope to be planking in the coming months, will post some photos then, thanks all
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Gluing deck planking
Phil Babb replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I use a d4 type glue and apply to both surfaces, on all touching areas, this then gives a superb adhesion -
Hi all, About 48 years ago there was an advert in a good old weekly magazine for Russian boxwood of cuts, in a cubic foot bag, I ordered 2, fantastic wood that I am still using to this day, although fast disappearing now. It planes ,cuts and carves wonderfully, and iam sure I only paid what now would be a few pounds.
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Hi, Are you positive this is an original prisoner of war model, looks very much on the heavy side to me ,but here to be corrected. Phil
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Rising wood questions
Phil Babb replied to Don Case's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
As Druxey says ,read Longridge,one of the bibles of ship building. -
Hi. Not a very good idea to put wood into any sort of water or moisture, we all tend to get the driest condition to store wood prior to use in any applications , especially model work. The method I was taught and always use is an domestic iron, wrench it from the wife or buy your own, not a steam one obviously, and depending on type of timber, adjust the heat and iron away, pearwood responds beautifully to this.
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Hi all, Interesting reading here, as to staining any wood I would only ever use a spirit stain, in 45 years of cabinet making I have found the few times I have used a water stain, whatever the quality, it fades. And yes to one quote, why would you want to colour boxwood, it's such a beautiful timber, I am lucky to have a fair good stock of it, a lot of Russian box that I bought nearly 50 years ago and quiet a section of english box, which is a much lighter colour,both superb to work . Regards Phil
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Hi, yes iroko is the second most careceogenic timber in the world, I gave up using it in my cabinet making rope years ago as when you machine it you get almost flu like symptoms. You some times yet the resin streaks in meranti and other timbers but this looks a bit brown for those timbers. Regards Phil
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Hi, basswood is American poplar Linden is lime , I use both in cabinet making, poplar is slightly harder than lime wood, lime is nicer to use in modelmaking as you can with sharp tools cut in most grain directions, I am using both woods in the framing of a model an english cutter at the moment, cheers Phil
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