AnobiumPunctatum

Hi,
 
The first step is often the hardest ….
 
I hope to undertake this challenge of building my first POF ship in order to develop my practical skills and learn new techniques - as well as ending up with a (hopefully) impressive final model.  I’ve been preparing for a month or so – downloading the plans for the keel, getting them printed and sourcing the wood.
My choice of timber is cherry for the keel and frames, maple for the false keel and other components further down the line and I also have some black walnut in store.
The timber as purchased:
 

 
A strip of each cut off, split and planed down to 8 mm.
 

 
Ready to start ….
 

 
The first component I decided to make was the aft deadwood.
Patterns cut out and glued onto the cherry with ‘Spray Mount’. I’ve found that this holds the paper in place well enough without leaving any residue on the surface once removed. A couple of times the paper lifted while a piece was being worked but this was spotted and dealt with before errors occurred.
 

 
After initial cutting out with a band saw edges were refined with a combination of a band facer and drum sander.
 


 
I have read about, and liked, the technique of enhancing wood joints with permanent marker pens and decided to experiment with black and brown pens on some off-cuts. To say the difference is subtle would be a wild exaggeration!  Blowed if I could tell the difference….
 

 
The pieces were glued together, cleaned up and the ‘steps’ marked prior to the waste wood being removed with chisels.
 


 
My first attempt. I’m leaving the final shaping to the sides until much more of the keel has been completed in order to try and get my head around how much wood needs to be removed.
 


 
I have also been working on making a building board.
 


Before I work on progressing further could someone confirm whether or not this project has been opened to new members again, please? I’m a bit confused by the message saying that it is on the ‘Forum’ front page and the one at the top of the ‘Cross section’ thread saying it’s temporarily closed.
 
In no way is the fact that this project has no big glossy box to smuggle through the back door while the Admiral isn’t looking, thus avoiding the inevitable questions of ‘how much?’ or ‘and where is it going to go when it’s finished’ has absolutely no bearing on my decision to get actively involved ….. honest…
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

I am very happy about your interest in my building report.
To all thank you for it.
Today only a picture of the finished top of the main mast.

I added a new item in the personal protection department. I began with a pair of earmuff, a respirator with cartridges, a head gear to install  on a construction hat,  a 3M full facepiece.
 
I will begin soon  extensive  hull sanding and I wanted  a lungs protection easier to wear than  the respirator with cartridges.
 
The next step will be in the protection equipment PAPR (Powered Air Purifying Respirator).   The best equipment I found on Internet is the 3M Versaflo but it is expensive and you need to wear a belt for battery, motor and fan.
 
 Another solution at ¼ the price of that unit is the Trend AirShield Pro.  Wood turner use this gears. This head protection gear can replace all the previous gears I had. It is a hard hat with a face shield made of plastic and cloth. Under the hat are incorporated a fan motor, battery  and filters. Performance is surprisingly good. The head is enclosed in a mask with positive pressure so wood dust does not enter. Even if there is an air cleaning system, alone it does not filter the air fast enough.

Still some frames are missing at the extreme fore and aft.
Fore ones are now cut.
 
On the last picture, a wide angle lens was used at 12 mm. This lens lenses allows the camera to get very close to a subject! It is a powerful tool for exaggerating depth.
 

Before  the frames assembly is glued,  I could choose to stop the build and recycle the frames in a coniferous tree.

I've been away for a few months busy with work around the house, spring yard work, dethatching the lawn (what a delightful time that was).
 
My needles are done and my eyesight seems normal, no need for a magnifying glass to read print anymore.
 
I had been down to the playroom during my absence from the forum but that was for unrelated items except for my reclaiming the rolling base of a broken office chair to make a mobile side table for modelling that you'll see in a photo below.
 
I am back to fitting chocks between frames and those located on the underbelly are easier inserted from above and inside.  To do this comfortably I lowered my modelling lift table and tilted the table top.  This work wonderfully.  I am so delighted I built my modelling table with these options.
 
I have two frames on the go in assembly and they both get thicker in their sided dimension at the gunport.  I've decided to build these as normal and add the thickness to the area needed after... but before glued to the deadwood.  Hope to post this in the next week or two.

During the weekend I made wooden finish of the hull using foil stripes. Later, it will be modificated with darker colours and of course I will create treenails and pins in wooden planks as well.
 

Really nice progress, Mark

Greg,
 
this are very good news. The book will be then a very nice Christmas present. From the size, the model is an ideal choice for my favorite scale, 1/32.

Wow, absolut fantastic. I like your precision.

I dyed the candles

I already discovered the problem. I had the automatic translator. Now without translator if I can upload photos

Let's do a size comparison. Gaetan uses his GRS engraver's block to refine one small part of his ship. 
 

 
 
I use mine to hold my ship.

-When preparing dry assemblies, if I need it to hold parts together, brass wire is used.
 
-I wanted a good file, but it was too large so I cut it.
 
-Lemineur and Boudriot drawings cannot be mix together because there are many variations in the drawings.  
 
 

I'm onto the second last row of planks for the larboard side. I can't put in the top plank because the screws holding the ship to the plug are in the way.

 

 
So once I've completed this run of planks I'll start planking the starboard side. I've learnt a fair bit while doing this and I hope the second side will be better.
 

 
Planking the tail. Because of the extreme curve I've had to put in a couple of drop planks.
 

 

 


 

 
 
I've sanded the planks down so they look more like the carvel construction they're supposed to be. Still got a way to go, and it looks like I may need to do some filling, and/or I might have to wait till I take the ship off the plug before I complete the smoothing off.
 

 

 

 
Still, fairly happy with the way it's turning out. It's good to finally have something that actually looks like a ship! And I can't get over what an elegant shape she is.
 
Steven
 
 

Go the other direction! I have a couple of his 1/300 frigates, very nice little kits.
 
1/300 Langton HMS Victory
 


 
 

Well Christmas has came went I got very little accomplished! In February my wife told me its time I retired then proceeded to hand me a new honey-do list, looks like I will be working on it until July or august....  well so much for retirement guys!
 
P.S. she made me sell my truck and bought me a new car, I put in a good word for a Ford Edge and she agreed and promptly paid for it!

Congrats for a beautyful cutter model, Chuck. I hope my Alert will if I have finished her as half as good.

The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:

 
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:

 
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:

 
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.

 
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
 

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

Thanks Dirk.
 
Rigged the anchors today.
 

 
Also made the entry way stanchions.  These were made just like the belaying pins.  They were turned in my dremmel.  I started with a 1/16" strip.  I drilled the hole forst while it was square and then turned the four stanchions.   They were painted black and then made to look like metal.   I wont add the rope from them because they always lay funny.  They are not heavy enough to lay correctly and leaving them like this is much neater.  They werent glued in yet when I took the photo below.  
 

 
And that about does it folks.   After 3 years or so I have completed the Cheerful.  I enjoyed myself a great deal and learned so much with this project.   Here are some preliminary images of the completed model.   Hopefully I will find time to make the base and case soon.  But now its onto the barge.....
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi.
I add a little progress from my model.
 
I glued the first top plank to hold together all frames. And cuts off all frames in the right-size.

 
And only then start sanding  inside of hull.
 

 
 
Step by step I stars planking. 
First planks I made a slightly curved. To keep straight part in bottom of inside hull. As well pre drill holes in keelson for hold pillar.
 

 
Next I made a couple of clams for planking. To make future work easier.
 

It works pretty well.
 

Cut out limber board in right shape. And cut it by small parts.
Then folded again all together and drill holes between.
 

By individual pieces I glued it In place. I leave only place for pump room.

It's all for the moment.
I hope so will have more free time to keep going.:)
 
Ainars

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel
 

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

While working on the topsail yard, I noticed that I needed a few more belaying pins. These were made from 1/16" square boxwood strips and the Dremel rotary tool. Using a 1/16" collet, the bottom end of the pin was reduced to .032" (1 1/2" scale). After cutting the handle of the pin to the correct length, the bottom end was inserted into a 1/32" collet and the pin was reduced to .045 (2 5/32" scale) From here the handle was easily shaped, and the bottom was trimmed off. Final length = 18" scale. 

 

 

 
The topsail yard is completed and all lines are belayed. I still need to trim the lines and add the remaining rope coils.