AnobiumPunctatum

Not only the build log, also the model is coming along great. Nice progress

I've glued up 5 of the 9 frames and I'm noticing some "tolerance creep".  When I enlarge the frame parts to 200%, the lines outlining the parts get some real thickness to them:  1/32" - 3/64").  This is especially a problem where the frames butt each other.  They need to be accurate or the frame doesn't match the plans, and things like gun port lintels and sills are thrown off.  I've already noticed some slight inconsistencies as I glue up the frames.  They are not matching 100% and on both sides of the frame. The errors are small...in the range of 1/32", but they are there.   Hopefully I can figure out a fix when the time comes.  Very thin shims will likely be the answer for any frame component too short at the top timbers, with trimming if they are slightly long.  This problem is a function of the large scale of the model (1/24).  Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Thanks, Eddie.
 
Milestone!  The first frame is glued up.  I'll finish all nine before rough sanding them.

Hello friends,
numeros broken frames (Thicknes 3,0 mm) and also a lot of curses
arranged me the model in the graduation 1:36 (Frames thickness 4,0 mm)
as across section with inside removal to build.
However only half of the ship with a lenght 0f 780,0 mm.
Regards
Karl
 
( Sorry Google Translator)
 
 
Part 1

It's nice to see you back in your Triton shipyard

Wonderful progress.

Very nice find!  Here is the link (note it is the 1812 edition)
 
Steel, David. 1812. The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture; Or: A Treatise on Ship-Building, Theoretical and Practical, on the Best Principles Established in Great Britain. With Copious Tables of Dimensions, &c. Illustrated with a Series of Thirty-Nine Large Draughts, ... Steel and Company. https://books.google.com/books?id=TWsmw-QqvmAC    

SKID BEAMS AND THOSE LITTLE BITS AT THE TOP

I then glued the brackets to the knees with quick-drying epoxy using the pins previously mentioned. I held the skid beams in the brackets (to ensure alignment), and, when the brackets had dried, glued in the skid beams.

By the way, you'll note that I'm leaving all the wood unstained and unpainted. This is quite deliberate, as I rather like the plain look. However, I have used my home-made varnish (mineral spirits, polyurethane varnish, linseed oil) to coat all the wood parts. I may have to give a second coat (some of the pictures show the patchiness), but I'm showing it in the current state.


I added a sheer rail to the top of the rearmost frame but remain dissatisfied with the look of it. I’ll remain dissatisfied because I’m not going to change it!





I’ll have a think about mounting it on a board, but as we may be selling our house soon, am not sure when I’ll be able to do it.

Tony

Hi, it's been a long time since an update due to a very heavy load working away so little modeling time to be had.
Another set of eight frames and a spacer frame have been installed up to B Aft, if you look closely you will see the rough cut out in the A-Frames for the fixed double block, and below the hull you can see the block bodies that have been made out of boxwood to match the hull planking when it's done.
 
The frames are just roughly faired and sanded to 100 grit just like the rest of the hull until hull is closed in.
 
So 16 frames are left to go to fill the gap, hopefully it won't be as long until the next update.
 
ben

I'm out of wood now.
So, first saw timber for planks and beams.

 
Of cherry wood pieces are made for the upper frames and beams.

Of the( real) ramin planks are sawn.

 
Cleaning

A first "batch" is ready.

 
And,
(Has nothing to do with ships. But nature is beautiful )
My bee hotel, made last year and see post N° 6, welcomes its first guests.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insect_hotel

Index
 

Giampiero,
 
 

 
Pawel

I also ended the little boat; I have to pass only a coat of matte varnish
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the Eagle as she sits in the dock today. The upper mast sections for the foremast are still to be done. On the spanker mast I decided to go with 12 rings. This was based on the Model Expo Niagara. It was slightly less than what I had calculated but given the boom and the angle of the gaff was well within the tolerances. Since the Niagara was what Dr. Crisman used as his basis for rigging, this is the rig I turn to when questions arise in my build.
 
Once the foremast is complete, I will start on the bowsprit assembly. The masts are currently just lightly wedged in place so ignore any misalignment. The final angles will be set with the shrouds. The mast sections are also not glued together. I plan on rigging the masts in place. Of course, as always, my plans are subject to change!
 

 

 

 

Just an update on progress on the Eagle. I have been putting quite a bit of time into researching the rigging configuration for the model. Dr. Crisman has a fuzzy hand drawing of how he thinks the ship's Rigging Profile would have looked. For my purposes, I need to drill down to much further details. My model will not have sails but there will be a combination of standing and running rigging on the model.
 
I am using several references. The American ships were rigged following most, if not all the basic rules used for British Ship's of War. This makes things much cleaner. Given the expediency with which the Eagle was built (19 days) there were in all likelihood shortcuts in some of this. There certainly was with the hull construction. However, following these guidelines along with Crisman's expert opinions should give a good approximation of the ship as she sailed to battle. Here is a list of the reference material I am using in this effort.=
 
Crisman's The Eagle Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging Lee's Masting and Rigging of English Ship's of War Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Ship Models David Antscherl's Swan Vol 4, Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop (while much earlier than the Eagle, it is a valuable treatise on actually rigging a model The first order of business was to attempt to identify those lines shown in Crisman's drawing and record these on a new CAD drawing (I am attempting to do) of the rigged ship. I also had an email discussion with Ed Tosti asking his advice on approaching designing a detailed rigging profile. His sage advice was to develop a detailed spreadsheet that would capture all the lines as well as the details around them, i.e., size of rope, serving, color, blocks etc.
 
I found that the Petersson book was great in identifying lines typical to that period. I used this in conjunction with the Crisman drawing to develop a list of those lines I would be installing. This could then be cross referenced with the Steel and Lee volumes to flesh out the details.
 
One key aspect of this is deciding the size of the ship itself. Steel has a table for sizing ship's based on the number of guns on board. I will be using the 20 to 22 gun tables. There is a difference in line and block sizing between Steel and Lee. Steel's number tend to be slightly larger in both line circumference and blocks. However, there is also inconsistency in these tables that Lee's smooths out using common block sizing ratios. However, this does not answer which method to use. There was nothing left of the rigging in the wreck other than the lower chainplates and mast steps. However there was an inventory list for the supplies sold from Whitehall during the sell off of the Lake Champlain fleet and supplies in 1825. While circumstantial at best, it does point to those supplies that were common in the fleet. The sizes of running rigging and blocks falls more neatly into the Steel tables than Lee's So I feel comfortable using these.
 
I have compiled my list of lines, but have only started working on fleshing out the spreadsheet. This will be an on-going project I will be doing in conjunction with completing the masting and spars for the ship. 
 
I had built a manual serving machine when rigging the Connie (1:92). However at 1:48 the Eagle will show much more detail in the rigging and require much more serving to be done than I wanted to do on my old manual machine. In preparation for this, I purchased Alexey Dumanoff's powered serving machine. It seems like a great machine and I can't wait to put it into service. It will be a great match for the Byrnes ropewalk.
 
I also have been putting in time actually making sawdust (and brass shavings). The photos below show the ship where she stands. I have been playing with my Grizzly Milling machine trying to develop the skills to actually use it well. More on that later. For this update, I used it to build the upper mast cheeks as well as sheave slots for the masts. The sheaves were turned on the lathe out of brass stock. I decided I did not like the previous iteration of the topgallant masts that I had done. On the Eagle, Crisman call for these to be exactly the same. So I redid these building them in parallel. These like all my masting were done first by cutting square strips of Maple to the size of the widest part of the mast, then using files, chisels and sand paper shaping the various sections per the drawings. By doing the fore and main topgallants at the same time I was able to better insure they were matched section by section. I still need to build the foremast cross trees and caps. The main mast caps also still require fitting and I may decide to redo some of those before all is said and done. 
 
Anyway, that is where she is today. Once the foremast is complete, I will work my way through the bowsprit and jibboom, then the spars. At that point, I hope to have all the rigging spreadsheet filled out. This will give me a good estimate for the numbers and sizes of the blocks to be made as well as the inventory of rope I need to make prior to starting the rigging. 
 
Here is a close up of the topgallant cheek blocks.
 
Topmast and topgallant masts. The fids will be cut to length after the cross tree is installed.Main mast topmast and topgallant masts. 

 
 
Main mast topmast and topgallant mast

Main mast topmast and topgallant at cross tree.

 
 
 

The upper deck framing is about half done. This set of photos shows the progress on the deck and some misc. deck items. The framing is European Beachwood and the forward hatch is bloodwood.

The main canon is in place and fully rigged. I also built the cradle that the boat will sit in. I initially did some reach to find an image of a period correct cradle, but in the end, I just designed my own. 
     Yesterday, i turned the four small 1lb. canons.  They came out ok. Turning pieces that small on a full size lathe and getting all the canons to look identical is a challenge. 
Practice makes perfect. 
 
Chris 

Hello Chris.
Nice work,verry good.
Karl

... after this the deck is to be done... the top sides of the bulkheads are cut off and the top edges of the bulkheads are beveled ... Everything is prepared for the deck base instalation... The deck base comes after this and the deck will lay on the smooth base in the one of the next building phases ...
 
 

... Then some classical planking... the way to the keel and upwards from the keel ...
 

I ended up turning the cannon from a piece of ebony and finished it with a coat of metallic dye (Transtint). I think it adds a nice depth of color and perhaps tricks the eye into thinking it's brass. 

It's nice to see you back in your Triton shipyard

Hi Guys,
 
Here's a little overview on my progress on the guns, paining the 3D prints:
 
Blank as they come from the printer:

after the primer:
 

 
base layer of black:
 

 
Washing with green to obtain a weathered bronze look:
 
]
I'm using the golden fluid acrylic.
 
Thanks for watching,
Michiel
 
 

little progress:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
Regards, Pawel