AnobiumPunctatum

I had forgotten some details:
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I also started building small boat:

Thanks Pat.
 
The second last step on the hull base is salt. I have done a salt line on the waterline, as well as from the scuppers and beneath the hawsers and along the centre armour belt. The Starboard side is not done, next is the Port side which I won't get to till next week. Thoughts for improvements?
 
Once that is done back to the airbrush.

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
Regards, Pawel
 

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
Regards, Pawel

Since I've been getting compliments on my planking, I thought I'd show you all how I go about gluing and holding the strakes onto the ship while the glue sets.  I'm using PVA, since CA sets too fast for my liking.  The first set of photos show the typical clamping positions on the top belt of strakes.  All the clamps are test fit on the formed strake before I apply glue.  You can figure out the best angle beforehand that way.  The ideal clamp location is one that holds the strake firmly against the bulkhead as well as holding it to the edge of the strake you're gluing it to without bending or warping the plank, if at all possible.  The clamping I'm doing is to hold the strakes tight while the glue sets, not to force the plank into place.  I have edge bent them with heat (no water) and face bent them around a jar without heat to get them as close to the correct shape as possible.
 

 

 
 

 
This next photo shows the clamping at the bow of the lower belt of strakes.  The clamps are positioned for even pressure across the edge of the plank.  On this one I couldn't get the clamp positioned to my liking at the very bow, so I did it the old fashioned way . . . held it tight with my fingers and sat there for 15 minutes.
 

 
Now a short tutorial.  I just glued this strake today and took photos of the process.  The strake was shaped, had the edge beveled, and was pre-bent, before it was glued on.  These next two photos show the first gluing session.  I only glued the 3 left-most bulkheads and the edge of the plank between two and a half of those.  The clamp on the right is up against the bulkhead where that side of the plank's edge is glued.  I've found that when gluing a strake in sections, it works best to split the sections to be glued midway between bulkheads.  I let this set for about 20 minutes.
 

 

 
These next two photos show the tool I use to apply glue, and how I do it.  I've been able to bend the boxwood and get in there with the curved sharp blade in order to get the glue as close to the previously glued plank center.  I think it gets to within 1/8" or so on the plank edge. 
 

 

 
This shows more of the same in the center section of the strake.  Again, notice that at the edges of the clamps on either side, the clamps are up against the interior bulkheads.  I really try to make sure that the plank edge only half glued is snugged down tight.  I also let this sit for about 20 minutes.
 

 
And finally the last part of the plank.  Testing the clamp position was essential on the very end of the plank because the shape is changing, so the clamp angle has to be adjusted.
 

 
One thing I'd like to point out.  Though this is only my second build, I don't feel like I necessarily have an aptitude that's greater than anyone else.  I have noticed over the years that being patient and going slowly yields better results, always, than when rushing through things.  Part of my ability to get the planking looking the way I want it is because of the time I've spent thinking how I'm going to do certain processes before I begin cutting wood.  My goal is to build a ship, rather than to have a finished ship . . . so if the process takes me a while, that's fine.  Lastly, some advice, don't ever look at the builds you admire on this board and think, "I can't do that."  I'm convinced that taking your time, and spending the effort to think your processes through . . .  and practice, practice, practice, will yield great results. 
 
Erik
 

got quite a bit done in the shipyard today.  the outer hull is finished up with all of the trim, fenders and steps.  the top sail bitt is installed and all of the blocks for rigging the guns are made.  I have also installed and rigged 2 of the guns.  I just need to coil up the ropes.  tomorrow I hope to finish up the guns and start working on the gangways.  I also need to start thinking about a case for this cross section and decide which project will be next; the USF Raleigh (Hahn plans and timber from the Lumberyard), the Model Shipways Confederacy kit or the POB version of the HMS Triton full build.  I'm leaning towards the Raleigh, only because it has been on the shelf for a couple of years now.
 
anyways, here are the pictures.  any comments and/or critiques are always welcome.

It's official, I'm halfway through assembling the frames
 

Hi,
 
"and very nice it is too! That must have been very satisfying to make.
 
Tony"
 
Thanks Tony, it was indeed very satisfying...
 
Mike, align the pieces wasn’t difficult, just used the plan as a template. What was difficult was sanding the individual half frames and putting the two half’s together.
The frame pieces, chocks and futtocks were sanded and aligned before and everything was perfect. Once I put the paper on this added an extra length (the thickness of the paper) to all components and everything had to be re-sanded and the chocks had to be re-dimensioned. Next time this can be avoided by taking this in consideration from the beginning. Another problem was that the glue doesn’t form a solid joint across the paper so it’s very easy to pull the pieces apart (this happened three times during sanding) leaving paper on both sides. This doesn’t happen once the two half’s are together.
 
Now what I don’t know how to do is how to put the two half together. This time I did it with the two half fully assembled. There is a post called “Assembling Frames” pinned to the top of the cross section section that shows how to do this adding piece by piece of the two half at the frame time. First the floor futtock, then the 1st futtock, then the 2nd and so forth... now my question is how do you align them if all the pieces have extra wood on the side, how do you align the red and blue line if they are not always at the same distance from the edge of the different pieces (when I did mine, I cheated, I sand it first so the lines where at the edges).
 
Christian, your help is most welcome and needed.
Some questions and observation from the image you posted
 
1.    The frame at station 0 is not double
2.    The double frames at station 1 and (A) are not symmetrical, the half’s closest to frame 0 are thicker
3.    Frames at station 3, 5, 7, A, C and E are symmetrical
4.    The frames at stations 7, 5, 3, 1, (A), A, C and E there is a space between them from the 1st futtock up while the frames at stations 6, 4, 2, ? (what is the name of the station between (A) and A?), B and D there is a space between them all the way from the keel
5.    What are the units of the thickness values written in the image?
6.    When you say all other frames have normal thickness is that the thickness used in the plans here at the forum? If that is the case I can use the pieces I have already cut and just sand then to the correct thickness (assuming they have the thickness of the floor futtock all the way up). Only have to redo the frame 0 and the two half frames from station 1 and (A)
7.    The frames at stations 7, 5, 3, 1, (A), A, C and E at the connection of the different pieces there are 4 horizontal lines (two at the 2nd-3rd futtock joint) in the space between the half frames, are those the location of the frames spacers? or just the location of the copper bolts?
8.    How do I determine the size of the space between the frames, they don’t seem to be always the same
9.    The frames at station 6, 4, 2, ?, B, D there seems to only be a reduction in thickness from the floor futtock to the 2nd futtock and from the 1st futtock to the 3rd futtock. The 2nd, 3rd, 4th futtocks and the top timber have the same thickness
 
Jan, I already used this paper in the same way in one of my kits and it didn’t bleed to the wood but I will test this on the frame I’m doing now
 
Just a small update on the frame I’m doing… the treenails are in place as well as the copper wires. Once everything is sanded I will post picture
 
Thanks everyone for the likes, comments and help…

I just bought up their entire inventory so you're all out of luck! I'm hoping it will finance my retirement, Chuck.

This are very good news. Scale Hardware was much cheaper than Kupfer in Germany

Fig- 60 The first 20 Frames in place, complete with Pillars, Ladder, Keel and Stringers and some Plating, which we will cover a little later in the proceedings.  
As may be imagined, having got to this stage - half way -  I was very keen to see if I was on the right track with creating this model centre section, so added some Plating right up to and including a short section of the  Bulwarks, stays and all -  and it looked to me to be OK, I was on the right road.  However, because I had started in the centre and so from now on had to work both fore and aft by adding another ten Frames to each end, most of this Plating became more of a problem than an asset, and was later removed, as we shall see, and refitted in longer lengths.  We learn as we proceed.
 
You may note also that the main hatch is also present on both the Main Deck and Tween-Deck.  This was also removed and remade, and will be covered later, together with the reasons why - a cautionary tale.

This are very good news. Scale Hardware was much cheaper than Kupfer in Germany

The stuff is back......scale hardware was bought out by model motorcars
 
https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/bolts
 
Greg you can take a deep breath now!!!!

The inner bulwarks are done.
 
 

 
The partners are not yet glued in place.
 


 
I've faired the tops of the inner and outer bulwarks for the main rail.  Not sure whether I put in the deck planking before the rails.  The bow and transom have arched rails so some serious bending is yet to be done.
Maury
 

Really nice carvings, Simon

Really nice carvings, Simon

My First attempts in carving...     . Very enjoyable but slow work, with pleasing results  .
At first I was thinking to make 3D models  and complete them on CNC milling machine, but investment would be too high for now. So, everything will be hand made.

Almost there ... currently working on garboard plank and keel  .

Simon,
 
very nice build.
 
If you cut the parts of the components for the stem, you have to look to the grain of the wood. It should be always in the longitudinal direction of the part and not perpendicular as seen on your stem. Take this for the future and don't changeit on your model, after coppering not much will be seen from this.

It's looking great, Kenny.

Hi Nils,
thank you for your nice reply.
 
And this is how the result looks.

Hola, ¿de dónde sacas esas grandes monedas?

It's looking great, Kenny.

Looks good. The redesign of the gun port sills is not necessary. The joints are very stable. If you want to make the joints stronger, you can use some tree nails