AnobiumPunctatum

It is hard to believe that it has been over a month since my last update.  Work on the quarter deck beams has been progressing very slowly but I hope to have them completed within the week.   The pictures were taken before any finish sanding.
 

 

 

 

 
 

Thank you, Mark, for your response to the book and for interest in building the model.  It has been a great experience for me - both the full-framed 1:72 model and the 1:96 hull.  The subject is certainly a beautiful ship.  If you decide to build one version or the other, please consider a build log on MSW.  You will get a lot of help - and a lot of satisfaction from that.  I know I do.
 
As Allan says, The Naid Frigate, Volume I contains an appendix on toolmaking that includes drawings and text on making three types of clamps, the flexible wood screw calmps, a simpler version of these, and the planking clamps that I have used on both Naiad and YA.  I have been pleased to see a number of modelers on MSW adopting these tools and other fixtures described in that first Naiad book.  Also, in that appendix is a section on making and hardening small chisels that will be very helpful in small hardwood joinery.  I will be most interested if you decide to proceed with YA - or make any of the tools.
 
Than you, Allan and Happy New Year to you - and to everyone at MSW as well.
 
Ed

Happy New Year, Mike. Intersting display box.

Happy New Year, Mike. Intersting display box.

Happy New Year, Mike. Intersting display box.

Happy New Year, Pawel

During the work on the Deadwood, I found an interesting detail on the original drawing.
 

 
David wrote in his book, that the knee will end under the lower filling transom. If I interpret the line right, it looks that the knee also sits in front of and under the other transoms. Is it possible, that this part looks similiar to the keelson or the stemson? Or show the drawing smaller parts of timber which are sitting only under the transoms?
Perhaps someone can help me how to interpret the line correct.

I just had to check to see which size deadeyes I bought from Chuck.  6mm.  Annnnnnd, since I'm in full on planking mode, I have to say I admire this plank joint.  It doesn't get any better than that!
 

 
Erik
 
 

When I first started rigging Cheerful It all seemed a bit overwhelming and I wasn't having all that much fun, honestly. I had no real plan for completing the Peak Halliard so I decided to concentrate on one task at a time and try not to think about all that had to be done. Making a decent looking hook, for example, required a lot more effort than I originally thought. I spent the whole day trying different methods and threw out a lot of wire. Making more wouldn't hurt, but the process did get easier and I'm happy with the results overall. Taking things really slow has made the rigging process a whole lot more enjoyable.
 

 

 

Thanks for the nice comments and likes!
 
Finished a draft version of the display case sketch. Would appreciate the critics, it would be cheaper to correct the design issues now than later! 
 
Basic characteristics: 100cm wide, 80cm high and 30cm deep (40' wide, 31' high, 12' deep). Plexiglas (3mm thick) would be used instead of glass (for safety and weight reasons). No glass on the back side, it would be mounted to the wall and the background would be a white wall.
Made out of the same swiss pear as the model. The frame would be made out of square pear stock 2x2cm (13/16').
 
Here is the overview first:
 
Front: 

(yes, I love scarf joints )
 
Isometric:

(Please ignore the joints in the back, I had no energy to draw them properly, but they be a mirrored copy of the front joints).
 
The load bearing part is hidden by the "skirt", and is made out of thick plywood bolted to the wall with Big Strong Bolts. Any sort of electrical stuff would be hidden in that cavities as well.
Plywood is covered by the pear "skirt" with a model description carved on it (or inlayed).

The top part of the case would be attached to the wall as well, with hidden screws, but will not take any weight.
 
Tricky part is the the way it would be opened. Since I will keep model in it and get it out every time I want to work on it, the opening mechanism should be easy to use (multiple times per week). Also, due to asymmetrical nature of the model, I want guests to be able to get it out easily to see the other side.
So the front window is detachable and is held by strong magnets. That means that front frame is split into two parts - one is 1cm thick and hold everything together, and another is also 1cm thick and holds the front glass. 
 
Front frame joints look like this (a bit complicated, but it is a sort of decorative joint, I want it to look nice)

 
Or a multi-colored version of the same joint, each color is a different wood piece:

 
There would be a groove inside front part of the front frame, to provide an additional support for the top glass and its frame, since otherwise it would be only supported from sides and will sag over time.
 
Would appreciate corrections if I forgot to over-think something in this design!  Is the plexiglas thick enough? I accounted for the wood movement, grooves for the glass are deeper to allow wood to shrink and breathe a bit. 
Is the base construction strong enough?

Finally finished the transom.
Last set of notches (aka "macro is brutal")

 
Horizontal piece also got some of them, on a weird angles:

 
Glued in, treenailed and masked for fairing:

 
Fairing was easy, because the smooth curve of the transom allowed to use the plane:

 
Faired. I made one mistake, one joint is too shallow, so can't fair this junction properly - the wood is too thin and will fall off
Too late and painful to fix, decided to leave it as is. Eventually this will become a part of the quarter gallery, so it will be less visible:

 
Put the oil on it (that was fun, so many surfaces to carefully oil and so many are crossing each other). Can't wait for it to dry, sorry for reflexes due to wet oil!
Note that due to a different grain orientation, oil resulted in different colours for different groups of timbers. Light "along the grain", medium dark "diagonal grain" and very dark "cross grain". It is all made literally made of the same piece of wood, I promise! Wood is magic
Not everything aligned as it should, but I started with a not very symmetrical transom, at least haven't made it worse. Will pay much more attention to the proper alignment in the next build!

 

 

 
Now I am taking a short break - will shift attention to the jewellery box I promised to admiral, and then will come back to this log with a display case for the model. The model is far from being complete, but it does not stop from displaying it properly, and will definitely help to keep the dust off.

Chuck,
 
If by Corel Photo, you mean Corel Photo Paint, this plugin might fix the lens issues that you are having. I believe it works as a stand alone program or as a plugin. Of course, there is always Photoshop where its "Camera Raw" plugin can be set up to do it automatically.
 
http://epaperpress.com/ptlens/
 
Mike

One of the few positives Ben is that it should go quicker having done it once already.  Looking good!
 
cheers
 
Pat

So here is the last remaining saved section from the old hull installed along with a frame fore and aft which have no floor fillers.
 
Ben

That's right, Christian. That is the sequence.

Thanks, I will draw the situation and show it.
If I understand everything right I have to change the build sequence. I must install the transoms first; than I can install the keelson knee / sternson followed by the cant frames.

Thanks Ed and druxey.
I have to look, how to do this part. The deadwood and transoms will be much more complicated at my sloop than expected.

During the work on the Deadwood, I found an interesting detail on the original drawing.
 

 
David wrote in his book, that the knee will end under the lower filling transom. If I interpret the line right, it looks that the knee also sits in front of and under the other transoms. Is it possible, that this part looks similiar to the keelson or the stemson? Or show the drawing smaller parts of timber which are sitting only under the transoms?
Perhaps someone can help me how to interpret the line correct.

During the work on the Deadwood, I found an interesting detail on the original drawing.
 

 
David wrote in his book, that the knee will end under the lower filling transom. If I interpret the line right, it looks that the knee also sits in front of and under the other transoms. Is it possible, that this part looks similiar to the keelson or the stemson? Or show the drawing smaller parts of timber which are sitting only under the transoms?
Perhaps someone can help me how to interpret the line correct.

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..
 

I know your very fine model from papermodelers.com. It's a pleasure that you show your outstanding work also at MSW. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks, I will draw the situation and show it.
If I understand everything right I have to change the build sequence. I must install the transoms first; than I can install the keelson knee / sternson followed by the cant frames.

The transoms are scored on to the sternpost and inner post. The knee is then scored on the inner faces of the transoms once they have been faired.

The second year of my build is almost over. Not much progress this year, but I hope that I can post a last update at New Year's Eve.
 
It's time to say Thank You to all who followed my log, to all who wrote their own log I where I found so much hints and inspiration and to the crew of this wonderful forum for their great job..