AnobiumPunctatum

Minor milestone and then on to a major one.... 
 
Finished the centerline hatchways.   Done... Finito...  I still have much to do on this deck still, but that is all going on hold.  I'm pulling her off the jig and making a cradle.  I gave some serious thought to only using pedestals but my experience with them is "iffy"...  so something a bit substantial that will look nice and not detract from her lines is in order.    
 
Meantime, here's the picture and I think I'm ready for either new batteries, a new memory card, or a new camera...  something is acting up here.
 

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Wonderful progress.

Wonderful progress.

It's a fantastic model. Thanks for sharing

Mike,
 
very very nice progress. Your model is looking fantastic.
 
Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color

It's a fantastic model. Thanks for sharing

Mike,
 
very very nice progress. Your model is looking fantastic.
 
Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

It's a fantastic model. Thanks for sharing

Mike,
 
very very nice progress. Your model is looking fantastic.
 
Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color

It's a fantastic model. Thanks for sharing

Mike,
 
very very nice progress. Your model is looking fantastic.
 
Why don't you use simple oil color? I've made different tests as preparation for my build and happy with the results. It's important to use a good quality color (Schminke, Lucas ar two German brands for example). Than you can work with very thin layers of color

Today I worked very productively! Began to handle the mast, built a device for this.

Progress is very slow, spent just an hour in the workshop
Installed remaining counter timbers. Transom is quite skewed, so impossible to achieve a proper symmetry - but I hope I will hide most of it when planking one side of it. The goal is to align windows on planked side with the counter timbers on the unplanked one.

 

 
Now fairing the timbers, the outermost counter timbers had a wrong angle.
File is good enough for it:

 
Btw, found a very nice scalper saw blades in the local hobby shop, was positively surprised! They could be found by "model craft saw set" query, and exist in two types. 

Finally got a few hours to work on the model
 
Tried a better method of cutting the inner lines of the slightly curved pieces, using a mill. It is described in TFFM, and with a very slight improvements it works really well!
 
The blanks are cut on the bandsaw, and outer curve is shaped on a disk sander:

 
After milling - smooth inner curve, super consistent width, and no nicks!

 
One of the timbers has a bevel, dividers are really handy to properly mark it up:

 
Result:

 
That timbers are curved in two dimensions, and another curve I made by dry-bending with heat.
Finally used my granddad hand vice that I have no opportunity to use previously

 
Seems like my hair dryer is too gentle and is not hot enough So two timbers cracked when I was gently bending them around a large cooking pot. Will try some cheap chinese hair dryer that does not care about your hair and can produce really hot air Or just go back to the steam/boiling method, it worked pretty well.

 
Careful alignment and markup:


 
Now need to cut the notches and make everything flush!

I don't think that dye is an issue if applied off-model. The problem would be even a tiny droplet landing where you don't want it on your model! I dye my wales as the first planks hung on the model, taking extra care with masking at the stem. However, it's all a matter of personal preference.

Below are some photos of a Royal Barge, 1823, built by David Antscherl. The techniques of construction are identical to those in his new book The Greenwich Hospital Barge of 1832. The clinker planking and delicate fabric covered awning are what drew me to her. Perhaps this belongs in the completed models section but I have added some construction photos because I thought many readers might be interested in them.
 

Fantastic results of a very unorthodox method.
Isn't there a big risc to damage the planking during the demolitian of the internal structure.
 
It would be very interesting if you could give us more information about your method.

Shrouds are completed.  I also added the lower backstay on the port side.  The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32").   You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side.  It is built up from three laser cut layers.
 
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang.  The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head.  They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
 

 
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
 

 

Really wonderful progress.
 
But why want you paint your stove? I think, you will get a much better result if you burnish it.

Really wonderful progress.
 
But why want you paint your stove? I think, you will get a much better result if you burnish it.

HI ALL
ITS ABOUT TIME FOR ANOTHER UPDATE.
 
TOPSIDES HAVE NOW BEEN PLANKED AS HAS THE STERN ALL TREENAILING COMPETED, IVE USED 0.8MM COPPER FOR THE WALE STRAKES....WILL PROBABLY USE A DILUTE LIVER OF SULPHER TO BLACKEN THESE LATER.
 
SOME REMEDIAL WORK TO DO AROUND THE GUNPORTS...NOT ENTIRELY HAPPY WITH THE CONSISTENCY OF THE GAP FOR THE GUNPORT LIDS.
 
DECK BEAMS CUT READY FOR THE NEXT STAGE.
 
AT THE MOMENT WORKING ON THE SHIPS STOVE AND OTHER THINGS BRASSY.
 
HAD A SENIOR MOMENT A COUPLE OF WEEKS BACK.....SOLDERING THE TOP SECTION OF THE STOVE I PUT IT ON THE ANVIL AT THE BACK OF THE VICE TO COOL DOWN.....AND THEN GRABBED HOLD OF THE VICE TO TAKE SOME TUBE OUT OF THE JAWS......*$%"£!&^%*(&^%$!!!!!!!!!.....THE BRASS COMPONENT MAY HAVE LOOKED COLD BUT I RECKON IT WAS STILL A COUPLE OF HUNDRED DEGREES C. 
 
FORTUNATELY THE COMPONENT WAS OK......ONCE A FEW BITS OF MY EPIDERMIS WERE REMOVED.
YOU WILL ALSO BE PLEASED TO KNOW THAT MY TIRADE OF FOUL LANGUAGE,DIRECTED AT MYSELF FOR MY OWN STUPIDITY,WAS WORTHY OF THE SALTIEST OF JACK TARS.
 
AND YES IT STILL HURTS!!!!
 
PHOTOS ENCLOSED FOR YOUR PERUSAL AS ALWAYS
 
CHEERS.....MICK