AnobiumPunctatum
-
Posts
1,233 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Mike 41 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks very much for the likes and comments.
You are right, Greg. I have to sand this later down. I don't find a way to do this with my small mill and chisels.
There's much more to sand down.
I'am not sure what is more complicated, the stem ore the stern deadwood. I think the stern, because there are a lot of different steps to do and you have to think about every step, before you start. I made me a small list of all single steps and hope I've nothing forgotten.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from davec in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to dvm27 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Outstanding, Christian. Looks like you've left well in excess of 3" on those steps.I can't tell from your photograph but the aft deadwood above the bearding line should taper to 10" at the stern deadwood.See TFFM 1.23.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from EdT in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Archi in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from zoly99sask in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Engelmann in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color. After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture: David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches
Next step will be the after deadwood.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Mike 41 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Mike Y in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from tlevine in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Martin W in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from tkay11 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The keel is laid down.
The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.
Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.
The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
@Ed
Thank you. I use also the waterlines of the half breath plan. I am sure that's a lot more work to draw this manually because it was more than enough work with my CAD.
You're right. But it made a lot of fun to do this exercise.
Also I had some points I want to check with the drawing. On the Half Breath Plan were only the positions and angles of every second cant frame given. I wanted to check the reconstrction of the other cants. What's with the position of the gun ports? WHich cant frames do I have to shift? Is every timberhead given in the Sheer and Profile drawing on top of a frame?
If I compared the position of the timberheads given in the Sheer and Profile of Fly and in the DOF plan of Cygnet, I found some alterations, for example at the fore cants. I wanted to check the consequences for the frame design.
@druxey
I've checked the position of all timberheads of the Sheer and Profile drawing and my reconstruction again. At the after cant frames I found two timberheads whose position do not really match with my cants. The position of the other four timberheads is ok.
So I think to change my design will not solve the problem.
What do you think is the better solution? To move the timberhead or to add a timber between the frames and not to change the position.
@all
Thanks for your interest and hints, which I really appreciate.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.
The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
First half of frame 0
Six frames have been installed.
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.
So let's start again
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Next step is the after deadwood.
I made the components of different strong woods, to make the shapeing later easier. The center line was marked with small stencils and a small 1.5mm drill bit was used to set holes for small pins. The following photo shows the alignment of the lower part on the keel.
All components are put temporarily together
Before the components van be glued together, the upper Notches for the last parallel frames must be milled.
After assembly, the deadwood is supported from the back with small wood pieces to have a smooth and, above all, stable support during milling:
As final step the template will be cut out:
The last picture shows the deadwood after milling the starbord site
Next step will be the port side.
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Finished rigging the gaff today. Nothing unusual or interesting about doing this. It was fun and I basically created the gaff just like the boom. One interesting feature to point out might be how the blocks are hooked to thimbles/bullseyes on the gaff. The blocks were not just seized to the gaff. This follows a method I saw on another cutter from the time period. Just seemed more interesting than doing it the other way.
It has gotten harder to photograph now. Its a much bigger subject to get in frame.
Next up will be the pendant tackles and shrouds....none of the falls or loose ends have been glued to their belaying points yet. You can see them left a bit long on deck. They are just made fast to each belying point and can be undone easily. I did this just in case they have to be retensioned after the shrouds and stays are completed. Some lines have a tendency to go slack as rigging progresses.
Chuck
-
AnobiumPunctatum reacted to druxey in MONTAÑES by Amalio
Terrific result, Montanes. But how did you get the first piece of the plug out of the model?
-
Our Emblem ®
