AnobiumPunctatum

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

Really wonderful, Ed. I love your precision. It looks so absolut easy but is so very difficult to reach.

Beautiful work.     It is so nice to see you back working on the model.
 
Well Done!!!

Really wonderful, Ed. I love your precision. It looks so absolut easy but is so very difficult to reach.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

Really wonderful, Ed. I love your precision. It looks so absolut easy but is so very difficult to reach.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

Really wonderful, Ed. I love your precision. It looks so absolut easy but is so very difficult to reach.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 182 – Made Masts
 
At 36" in diameter, there is little doubt that Young America's fore and main lower masts were built up of multiple pieces – so called "made masts".  Beyond that, the details of their construction is speculative.  Masts were made in a variety of ways – probably dependent on the mast maker's methods and certainly on the available timber.  Most made mast construction featured a central core, a "spindle" that may have been of one or multiple pieces.  Attached to the sides of this were "side trees" over the lower to upper mid-length with additional side "cheeks" up to the "stop" at the top of the square "hounds" that supported the top.  These might be integral with the cheeks or separate pieces.  Timber pieces that filled out the fore and aft faces, "fish" completed the typical body of the mast.  Often, each of these pieces consisted of multiple members.  All these pieces were fitted together with a variety of hidden mortises and the pieces were often made as long scarphs.  I had no intention of trying to duplicate these complex assemblies, especially without knowledge of the actual original masts.  I chose a simpler design for the model fore and main masts that consists of a single spindle squared over the full length of the mast to the dimension of the doubling – the square section above the stop.  Two side cheeks and two fish over the full rounded length were used to fill out the size of the squared mast that was then shaped as described in the last part. 
 
The first picture shows the five parts of the lower foremast.
 

 
The next picture shows the first two sides glued to the spindle.
 

 
Dark glue was used to yield a subtle joint line.  These first pieces were cut just larger than the spindle so they could be scraped flush to provide a flat surface for the remaining parts.  The scraper blade in the upper corner of the picture was used for this step.  In the next picture the assembled stick has been marked at the quarters and on the centerline.  The dividers are being used to mark the breadths at each point.
 

 
In the next picture two sides are being sanded to the line – the so-called second trim.
 

 
After marking these sanded sides, shaping them as above in the third trim, and then marking the apices of the octagon, the corners were removed.  The first step, planing, is shown below.
 

 
After forming the regular octagon, the mast was rounded using the tools shown in the next picture – a rasp, a medium flat file, and a medium-fine barrette..
 

 
The lower end of the mast is shown in this picture.  It will be cut off and the step tenon formed by filing down the square spindle to the size of the step mortise.
 
The three bare lower masts are shown positioned on the steps in the last picture.
 

 
The next step on all these spars, bowsprit and masts, is the iron banding.  These round hoops must be fitted over the masts before the installation of the hounds.
 
Ed

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
 
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1  
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
 
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
 
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
 

 
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

After a Long time I can Show new Progress of the build of my Sloop. After the stem I started building the lower and upper apron. Especially the lower apron, was really difficult. I need three trys until I get an result which I decided to use for my build. I think that I wouldn't get it better. I accent all glueing joints with brown color.       After finishing the stem looks as in the following picture:     David Shows in his book a simplified method for Building the rising woodI decided to follow the more detailed way, because I have a very precise Position of every second Frame. I think that this will help me in the future. I used this simple dummy frame during the build for checking the wide of the notches      
Next step will be the after deadwood.

A few more planks added and also tried my hand a fibreglassing the funnel - resin took a long time to cure but fully dried out after hrs, will be sanding tomorrow

Thanks Glenn, Cap'n Poison and Mike!
 
Worked on those pesky counter timbers and helm port. 
Lots of meaurements, doubts and re-measurments involved!
 
Step 1: carefullty mark counter timbers location. I should admit that my transom is not very symmetrical - few mm here and there. Nothing really big, and one should have a really sharp eye to see it in person, but the ruler does  not lie Will measure better next time!
 
So a lot of time was spent trying to find a right balance to ensure symmetry in the scope of a single side. Asymmetric planking (one side planked, one side exposed) will help as well. Cardboard templates ftw!

 
Careful viewer will note a mistake #1 here - helm port is for the rudder, not for the sternpost. Luckily I spotted it next morning.
Lesson learned - do not do marking and measuring of such difficult areas at night, being tired. It is a recipe for disaster.
 
Helm port piece was cut on a bandsaw and the weirdly angled hole was first cut in the mill, and then fine shaped with files:

 
Then the whole assembly glued together:

 
Mistake #2 - the assembly is too weak, there is only one thin "bridge" keeping two sides together. Combine it with the grain following the stress line, plus counter timbers providing leverage - expected result - it snapped into two parts right in the middle. Ouch!
Glued them back together, and it not very visible. It snapped before final sanding, so it was possible to use lots of glue and sand away any traces of it from the surface. Hope it will not become apparent after applying the finish.
Assembly ready for installation:

 
Mistake #3 - I have not pre-cut notches in the wing transom, doing it in place. Hull sides make it impossible to properly use chisel, the angle is too square.
So used a tiny one plus knife:

 

 
End result is so-so, I am not happy with the fit, there are small gaps in the glue joints, but I did not to spend few weeks doing that part again... It would not be too visible below quarterdeck. I hope! At least the counter timbers ended up square and in line with already installed timbers. Phew!
 

 

 
Obligatory "light and shade" shot:

Absolut fantastic