AnobiumPunctatum

I also fixed the guns
 

 

 

 

 

Very nice model. I like your methods for makeing the rivets

Found this book for free on the net today about the HMS Centurion (60)  .  HMS Centurion  1733-1769 by Shirley Fish.  I just read a few pages and it looks to be a good read.  She spent four years researching and goes into explanations on her build to the 1719 Establishment and then on to her adventures at sea.    It is available on Kindle for about $4 so I will probably get it to read in more comfort.   Google the book and author and it should come up.  Google.books.com
Allan

I took the time today, to look at your last videos. Really interesting way to show your build.
They give me a lot of motivation to continue my own build. Thanks for sharing

PLANKING TERROR'S TOPSIDE
 
Over the summer months, I have been working steadily on my model's topside planking, while it seems the real Terror has been biding her time, waiting to reveal herself to the world. Despite the excitement of the discovery, my work continues, though perhaps with somewhat more adrenaline than previously.  
  I began this part of the project by cutting out the numerous ports on Terror's bulwarks, and then proceeded with planking the entire topside down to the level of the chock channels. The planking followed a carefully laid out plan that I devised for the entire model.    Based on data in 1845 stern plans by Oliver Lang, the strakes on my model Terror vary between nine and ten scale inches wide whenever possible. Consistent with information gleaned from the original ship's contract, each strake is approximately 24 scale feet long (where possible), and follows a three plank shift. Deviations from this plan were necessary in many portions along the topside, where ports interrupted the normal planking layout (and common sense indicated a butt would not be necessary).     I marked the position of the port sills using paper guides (this is the reverse 
of the printed plan, used on the port side)   Each port was carefully cut out with a sharp blade.   The port sills were lined with holy.   Terror's bulwarks were riddled with ports. Here the bitts have been modeled 
from Swiss pear and are portrayed in an unworn condition.    Details of additional bitts.   In the stern, Terror had two large chocks on each side. These were cut from Swiss 
pear sheet stock and the correct shape transferred to them from a card cutout.    Ensuring the chocks are symmetrical.   The finished pieces.    And again after installation.    Planking began at the solid ice channels and proceeded  strake by strake (tier by tier), following the 
plan I had devised. Terror has an extremely bluff bow, and care had to be taken here. While spiling 
would be preferred, I am constantly worried about my wood supply and used a technique taught 
by Chuck Passaro. It worked very well, despite planking in scale thickness (here 4").   The port side, after a coat of Minwax Wipe on Poly. Not the bottom 
strake is left untreated so that I can glue the ice channel top to it.    Comparing the symmetry of planking on both sides of the knee. Following 
the planking plan and marking off the hull carefully ensures 
less variation.    Terror's bow is so bluff, and the scale plank so thick, that I resorted to using a plank bending tool 
to achieve the proper curvature. I dread planking the second layer on the wales, which 
are over 9 scale inches thick!  I expect hot water immersion , or hot iron bending, 
will be my only option there.    Planking surrounding the many ports at Terror's bow.   The planking plan indicated that one plank, in particular, would be very complex. 
I measured and marked it off carefully before cutting.    Installation involved dry fitting, careful sanding, dry fitting again, sanding again, and 
repeating constantly until it was acceptable.      Planking amidships, showing the three plank shift.       Detail of the chocks after planking.   The completed planking run on Terror's starboard side.   The next task in my project will be to frame the stern lights (windows) and install them. Until then, I hope we get to see more images of the real ones from Franklin Expedition 2016. 

Dan,
 
these are sad news. I hope that the chemo help and wish you all the best

SEP 17 2016
 
Yesterday was a good day to work in the shop, raining all day with thunder later in the afternoon.
 
I worked on finishing the installation of the brackets and horseshoes.
First I had to make the bolts.
 
I followed the method posted elsewhere on the forum
(  Making nail s with rounded nail heads
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11204-tiny-fake-nailsnail-heads/?hl=%2Bbolt+%2Bhead#entry341045 )
 
I managed to acquire a short length of multi strand wire with strands measuring 0.031" diameter (1.98" to scale).
The snipping created a burr that I tried to file off but what was left tended to help hold it in place.
The rolled head was very tiny and barely noticeable but it was round and for the scale looked very good.
I needed 26 bolts but made 30.
 
I cleaned everything in white vinegar, rinsed in water and dried with a paper towel.
Separated everything in clearly marked containers so I wouldn't try to put the port bracket on the starboard side (as the relief are cut to match the bracket).
 
Wearing latex gloves the brackets and horseshoes were glued in place using Gorilla Glue (10 seconds time to work).
Getting the bolts assembled with tweezers and my smallest hammer was a real treat.
I mixed up a weaker batch of blackening agent and used a cotton swab to apply.
Then, of course, disaster.
Some glue must have seeped around an edge or through a bolt hole and the blackening was not over the whole assembly.
 
I then spent considerable time re-cleaning in place and re blackening.
The final outcome is not what I'd hoped for but it is not completely terrible (or am I trying to convince myself?).
 
I've thought (all night) of removing them but any second item will not fit perfectly into the existing recesses and bolt holes will not align.
 
I am going to have to stare at it a bit and decide if I can live with this, my second attempt at blackening.

Dan,
 
these are sad news. I hope that the chemo help and wish you all the best

Hello,
 
the decision to form the dead-eyes is not yet done.
But I think that I will abide by the recommendation of G. Delacroix.
Meanwhile, I make the the lower supports of the channels.
Some time ago, I have already begun, as seen here LINK.
To further manufacturing are a few recent photos.

 

 

Another photos 
 

     

HI ALL
A VERY QUICK UPDATE.
THE WALES ARE NOW ON!!!!!!!!
HOLE FOR THE RUDDER ALSO CUT IN THE COUNTER.
 
LOTS OF CLEANING UP ON THE WALES AND FRAMES TO DO.......WORKING WITH EBONY IS A MESSY BUSINESS.
 
CLAMPS HAVE FINALLY BEEN FINISHED...WILL USE THESE WHEN PLANKING ABOVE THE WALES...NEXT JOB.
 
CHEERS FOR NOW.........MICK

Dan,
 
these are sad news. I hope that the chemo help and wish you all the best

Dan,
 
these are sad news. I hope that the chemo help and wish you all the best

I took the time today, to look at your last videos. Really interesting way to show your build.
They give me a lot of motivation to continue my own build. Thanks for sharing

Another photos 
 

   

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Continuation.
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 175 – Shackles
 
Since I will be away for the next couple weeks, I thought I would cram in one more post before leaving – especially since it relates closely to the last post. 
 
There will be many shackles like those described below in Young America's rigging – 3 dozen or more on the deck and hull, plus many more aloft on yard bands, connecting chains and wire to rope, etc.
 
Shackles consist of  U-shaped iron yokes with screwed bolts threaded into the ends.  They replaced ring bolts, seized lashings and other connectors.  Easy removal of the screwed bolt allowed connections and disconnections to be made easily.  Several shackled eyebolts are shown below.
 

 
These will eventually be installed in the deck, rails, or hull by the method described in the last part – but not until later after the lines have been spliced on at the workbench.  The next picture shows the two parts of a shackle about to be silver-soldered.
 

 
The two pieces are 24 gauge copper wire – same gauge as the eyebolt.  Copper-phosphorus paste has been applied at the joints.  The configuration of the pieces is intended to simulate the horseshoe shape with a straight bolt at the bottom.  The picture also shows an eyebolt embedded in the soldering block ready for attachment of its shackle – not the one shown.  The next picture shows the soldered shackle before trimming the bolt ends.
 

 
There will be relatively few of these standalone shackles, so this was for demo only.  The next picture (apologies for bad focus) shows the soldering setup for an eyebolt-attached shackle.
 

 
The embedded eyebolt must be kept clear of the solder paste so the parts will swing freely.  After soldering, the shackle must be rotated so its bolt passes through the eyebolt allowing the rope or other line to connect to the horseshoe loop. This rotation has been done on the pieces in the last picture.
 

 
The loops on these shackles at 1:72 are about 6" (.08" actual) diameter.
 
Next topic: Whisker booms.
 
 
Ed
 

Looks really good

Hello,
 
Another small detail checked form the to do list.
 
Alexandru

I took the time today, to look at your last videos. Really interesting way to show your build.
They give me a lot of motivation to continue my own build. Thanks for sharing

Looks really good

I took the time today, to look at your last videos. Really interesting way to show your build.
They give me a lot of motivation to continue my own build. Thanks for sharing