AnobiumPunctatum

I think you have a nw hobby, Jürgen.
Sanding, sanding

Thanks for the good words and all the likes folks.
 

First Frames
There are 5 double frames and 12 single frames in this cross section. I decided to start with the foremost frame, which is the double frame D1/D2. Figured this would be a good place to get techniques/methodology sorted out.
 
All frames will be made from 1/4" thick Swiss Pear. The stock is very slightly over-size for thickness. In making the first frames, I chose to leave the stock thickness "as-is" until the frame assembly is complete, and then reduce by passing the completed frames through the thickness sander. I may live to regret that decision, but we'll see how it goes!

Prior to cutting these out on the scroll saw, the timber stock was covered with low-tack painters’ tape, and the templates printed on sticky label paper and stuck on top of the tape. This is a tip I picked up from a scroll saw forum - it makes removal of the pattern very easy and there is no sticky residue to clean up afterwards. I have to say, having now tried this method, that it works a treat!



In laying out the pattern pieces, care was taken to ensure that the grain ran along the length of each piece (as far as possible).



The pieces were cut roughly to shape on the scroll saw, leaving about 3mm all round, and then the final shape was achieved using the Byrnes disc sander for the outside curves, and the oscillating spindle sander for the inside curves.

When it came to cutting the scarf joints and keel notches, I experimented with a couple of different methods, including hand saw and chisel, band saw, and using the mill with an end cutter. In the end, I decided that I was over-thinking it, and simply cut these as accurately as I could with the scroll saw, and then cleaned up with a (very sharp) chisel and file where necessary (which to be honest, wasn’t much).
 
The chocks were deliberately left over-size to provide a “handle” for cutting and shaping the “business” end. The bulk of the handle will be cut off prior to assembly and the remainder cleaned up on the spindle sander after assembly.

Here are the completed frame pieces cut out and ready for assembly:



Glue-up awaits, but if I've missed something important here, now's the time to tell me!

Thanks for the kind comments Ben, John, Sherry, Piet, David, George, Greg, Nils and Popeye - much appreciated .
 
 
Nils - the holes in the Tops are just large enough to slip over the shrouds.
 
Fore Mast Shrouds
 
With the completion of the Fore Mast ones I've finished fitting all the lower shrouds :
 

 

 

 

 

 
My apologies for the poor quality of the pics - it's very difficult to take good ones with the lighting and backgrounds in my caravan .
 
  Danny

You're welcome Robin .
 
Main Lower Shrouds and Burton Pendants
 
I've fitted all the Main Lower Shrouds. The foremost one is served all over, and the others are served for the uppermost quarter.
 
The Burton Pendants are slipped over the mast head before fitting any of the Shrouds. These are used for heavy lifting of any cargo, in conjunction with other rigging on the yards. They have a Thimble spliced into their lower ends, and are made up as a pair with a Cut Splice around the mast :
 

 

 
The foremost shroud is a single and also uses a cut splice to connect the port and starboard shrouds :
 

 
The rest of the shrouds are paired on each side as were the mizzen shrouds. This pic shows all the shrouds fitted around the mast head :
 

 
The deadeyes and lanyards :
 

 
An overall pic of the rigging so far :
 

 
  Danny

I think you have a nw hobby, Jürgen.
Sanding, sanding

Congrats for reaching this milestone, Jürgen. Your hull looks really impressive. I am nosey to see your hull when we meet next year .

I think you have a nw hobby, Jürgen.
Sanding, sanding

Hello All and thanks for all the “likes” (12 in a month, hahaha)
 
Oh boy! I never thought that 60 pieces of wood would tell so much about the structure of a platform. I do know that much more of this work will be invisible with the other decks but do not not how, I keep keeping the things not simple.
 
It is quiet easy to get lost if you are trying to actually build the whole inner structure of the ship, so where do you stop detailing the different rooms…?
 
For the spirituous drinks and the fish* I thought that was odd to have such a reliable source in touch with the limber water… rats, fungus, dark water… So I have decided to make 3 separate rooms for all of this. Like that we were talking about the powder room on the magazine.
 
Here are the pics; there are lots of them from the beginning.
 

 
I ended using pieces of paper to find out the shape of the bulkhead, easier and cheapier and I ran out of balsa wood.
 

 

 
Here´s a lot of work between the pics above and the rest of the post but no pics of it... we are talking about 60 pieces that took me almost a week...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here´s the magazine where I´ll move now. Just to check. The rooms and departments kind of scare me,,, how many pieces will be involved?...
 

 

 
Need to buy a better camera...
 
 
(*) FISH: Got a question to you, Do you think it was a room for fresh fish or salad fish? If it is salad I´ll leave the bulkhead like that but if it´s fresh I´ll have to double the bulkhead with 40mm plank (for real) on both sides (2 or 3 planks).
 
On another side, I have decided to dedicate 1 week to the Triton an one to the CAD on the Principe De La Paz because otherwise I´m not going to be able to end none of them…No rush in this hobby…
 
Best wishes and happy winter! Viva J.C. Fogerty and his CCR!!!
 
 
Daniel.

Thanks all.
 
Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.
 
Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 
 
Here they are temporary fitted
 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it
I'm not sure how that happened......
 
Remco
 
 

Thanks to everyone for their input regarding the planking below the transom.  Obviously, somewhere along the way, a measurement was off by about 1/8" (6" full size).  I decided to make up for this by making the planking below the transom look like it was designed to have a filler piece and not a correction for an "oopsie".  I am pleased with the look so far.  The same number of planks end on the wing transom as shown in TFFM.  The difference is that there is no need for a slight flare at the end because of the filler piece.  After installing the first row of planking below the "gang of six", I decided to lay out on the hull the rest of the runs of planking.  Tick strips were used at every station to obtain the remaining width.  This was divided by nine (the remaining number of rows) and the width was transferred to the hull with calipers.  After all the station marks were drawn in, the marks were connected in a fair line to show the run of the planking.  I also marked out the butts of the planks.  This makes the rest of the job much easier.  While there was a significant amount of framing visible, I decided to mark their locations on the planking so the lines of treenails would be fair.  At the stern this involved also marking out the fashion pieces and the location of imaginary cant frames going up towards the wing transom. Everything looks a little rough at this stage, having only lightly sanded with 100 grit.
 

 

 

 

Really good idea for cutting the grating. I stored this in my tips and tricks folder.

Thanks guys
 
Rusty it will be basically the same.  Except in this case the original planking expansion did show one drop plank at the bow.  I am basically replicating that draft exactly.  So I will include that drop plank and then divide the bottom of the hull into belts.   But only two this time.   Then I will line off the hull before moving forward with the planking.
 
Heres what the hull looks like after those two planks were added between the molding and the wales.  I only darkened the seams where it will eventually be noticed.  This helps if I need to tweak the placement of the second layer for the wales and molding.   Without the seams darker its easier to move the second layer without folks noticing.
 
You will notice the darker wales.  This was just a sheet of boxwood I had that was noticeable darker.  I figured what the heck,  I might as well use it for the wales.  Its going to be painted anyway.  It also helps me visualize the run of the wales as I plank above them.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 93 – Main Deck Framing 4
 
The two large fresh water tanks needed to be permanently installed before the main deck framing could be completed.  The first photo shows these two tanks in place.
 

 
The tanks were iron and rest on heavy wood bases in the hold over the keelson.  These bases were shown in earlier posts.  The tanks were made from cardstock glued on to wood blocks.   The picture also shows  tops of the lower sections of the bilge pump suction piping just forward of the tanks.   The next picture shows the run of these pipes down to the limber channel.
 

 
The pipes are copper tube.  The upper sections between these pipes and the pumps on the main deck will be installed later.  The 4”x4” dunnage timbers on the base for the forward tank can be seen in this picture – taken before setting the tanks - just aft of the pipes.  The main mast step can be seen just forward of the pipes.  (This was shot at an aperture of F32 and very slow shutter – much better field depth vs. the pictures in last post.)
 
In the next picture the framing in the midship area is approaching completion.
 

 
All of the full beams have been installed in this picture including their hanging knees and pillars.  In the picture the headers for the main hatch - with scores cut for the half beams - have been fit as well as the main mast partner carlings.  In the next picture the framing over the tanks has been completed and the last pillar under one of the half-beams is being test fit. 
 

 
All of the pillars are pinned with copper wire bolts top and bottom.  The fitting of this last pillar finishes the deck beam setting.  The next picture shows the hull with the main deck framing at this stage.
 

 
Next will come the lodging knees for all these beams and the ledges – but first a few housekeeping items needed to be taken care of.  One of these was literally a housecleaning of the workshop that might be partially noticeable in the above picture.  This tidying up also included installing 10 dozen or so functional copper wire bolts with epoxy to further secure the main deck beams and knees.  One of these is being installed in the next picture.
 

 
There are two at the end of each beam – one through the beam into the clamp and one through the beam into the hanging knee.  The other task was to apply wax finish to all of the structure from the middle deck up to just below the main deck beams.  This cannot be done easily after the ledges are installed. 
 
The deck framing has not been sanded at this stage as might be noticed.  This will be done once after all of the ledges are installed.
 
Ed

After the drawing works it was time to make sawdust.
 
First part is the keel, which is a little bit tricky. The keel has a light curvature and the joints are perpendicular to the base line.
I cut some small stripes with my cirular saw, make the joints and glue the parts together. Next I added the parts for the stem.
The picture shows the step on the building board. I use Tamiya Tape to avoid that the keel glues on the paper during the build.

 
The next pictures show the complete assembled backbone for the small vessel,

 
the stem with with the changed layout of the parts,

 
the keel and the rising wood,

 
and the stern post with the after deadwood.

 
The next steps are cutting the rabbet, the keelson and the building board. Then I can start with the frames.
 

Welcome to the dark side and a lot of fun with your build

I managed to finish the skeleton for Cheerful today.  So its now ready for planking.  The stern framing was pretty standard although the design concept was modified for the square tuck.  This is a feature that is rarely shown correctly on these cutters.  There are some pretty complex angles.  Its hard to tell in the images but the square tuck is not flat and completely perpendicular to the keel.  It has a slight convex curve as it works its way from the center outward.   
 
It isnt complete yet.  The actual framed square tuck will be added after the sides of the hull are planked.  Its probably the trickiest part on the model but I simplified it quite bit as far as the construction is concerned.  But when its done it should look exactly like the real thing.  Thats my hope anyway.  The first image shows the Rogers collection model with its square tuck.   The frame around the vertical planking will be added after the hull is completely planked.  Then I will fill it in with the vertical planks.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

Grant, welcome to the very dark side of model building. I am sure you will have a lot of fun with your build.
So you never find back the way to the other side

I found on my hard disk some old 3D drawings for the project. I think they give some very interesting views about the frameing of the POF model. If I remember right Don has drawn them:
 
 

looks really good, Kevin

Here is the modified drawing.
 

My new keel drawing is finished.

 
Next I will draw the frames and build the new bigger version of my keel

Daniel asked me to show how I get the different center points and radii for the construction of an frame. Please be in mind that there are a lot of  other steps necessary before you can start with the frame construction.

First let me refer to two articles which I think that they are very helpful in understanding the lines of an original drawing
1. David Antscherl: Understanding Eighteenth-Century Admirality Drafts, Nautical Research Journal Vol. 52, No. 2 Summer 2008
2. David White: Understandig Ships' Draughts, Model Shipwright No. 48 ff.
 
I made some screen shots during the construction of the main frame of the cutter.

After creating the "Breath Extreme" line in the Body-Plan, I define the Center Points for the Lower Height of Breath.


Next I determine the radii of the arcs, which don't have the center points in the original drawing (most of this arcs were drawn with French Curves).
The list gives the different values:
Lower height of breath: 72.53 first:          260.35 second:    straight third:         -319.9  

 
Next I calculate the center point of the first curve: I draw an arc with the radius 260.35 from the endpoint of my help line and a radius from the center point of the lower height of breath withe the radius 260.35 - 72.53 = 187.82. Then I draw a line from this center point to the center point of the Lower height of breath and stretchit to the circle of the Lower height of breath. Now you can draw a circle with the first radius.

 
Now I repeat these steps for creating the center point of the third curve. I draw to circles with the determined radius, one from the keel and one from en point of the help line.

 
Next I draw a straight line to both circles. There exist an Autocad function to do this, so nothing to construct for me .

 
At last I draw the frame. I start at the Lower height of breath. Then I draw the upper height of breath and complete the frame with the other arcs and straights.


I hope that this small description is helpful for someone.

As written in my last post I bought last month the design drawing for Alert/Rattlesnake at the NMM.
With my new knowledge about reconstruction of a line drawing I started to redesign the ship on basis of the NMM drawing.
 
For this I did not use any information of Goodwin, because it's not a primary source. I don't have access to the archieves so I will only use the NMM drawing and later the vademecum for the scantlings. I am not sure if I like to show my model as designed and shown on the drawing or as shown on the Marshal painting.
Both presentations have the same origin: they should show the design for a ship to the people who allocate the funds.
 
The drawing isn't finished but I like to hear your meaning about the the reconstructed lines:

 

 
It#s my first reconstructed ship, so I am not sure if everything is right.

Here is the modified drawing.
 

Ok, I added the marks on the sternpost by narrowing them down they fitted. I omitted one mark as the gudgeon will cover it.  I'm not happy with how they turned out compared to the stempost marks. It was hard to maneuver being right handed, the hull got in the way 
 

 
Making a new sternpost is out of the question I'm affright ,....
 
Remco