AnobiumPunctatum

Thanks for this great build log. I'm interested to see what is comeing next.

A milestone has been achieved.  The lower deck structure has been finished.  I have been applying finish to the underside of the beam sets before installing them.  The gap in front of lodging knee 17 in the fourth photo occurred because the assembly is not glued in yet and it shifted.  The last photo shows it better positioned.  I will not put on any upper surface finish until after the decking is installed.  Now on to the mizzen partner.
 

 
    
 

 

I finally found my way back to my workshop. Real life, other projects and a bit of modelers block got in the way. I finished beam 11 with the hanging knees and now I moved to the bow section to built the fore platform.
The footwalling already has it's final finish so the bare wood looks light in contrast.
 

 

 
Two more platforms coming up...
 
Remco
 
ps Ben, nope I'm not a brain surgeon, nor something alike  ;-)
 

Hello everyone for the kind words and comments.
 
These are the last pictures of the
LE BONHOMME RICHARD 1779  Part 2.
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  24

I have fixed the beams in place and started cutting the notches out. Just a dry fit here to see how it looks. Still a bit of tidying up to do yet.
 

 

Amendments of Cathead-rope
 
Karl

Final installment on the rebuilt log. The yards and running rigging and the final details:
 
The yards, like the masts, were made from dowels with the eight sided sections built up. The blocks were commercial items with some shaping. Specialized blocks such as long tackle blocks were made from strip wood. The rigging line is tan linen line that I have had for some years. The sequence of construction and rigging was fore to aft ( opposite to how I do the standing rigging, but also to give the greatest access), and lower to upper on each mast. The most difficult task was running the main jeers through the jeer bitt sheaves and attaching to the bitts. In hindsight, it wold have been much better to have made that attachment at a much earlier stage of construction before the bitts became very difficult to reach.
 
The final details included the anchors and their bouys and rigging, the entry ropes and the installation of the swivel guns and the elm tree pumps.
 
In summary, this kit, although it had numerous shortcomings, provided a unique opportunity to build a fully framed boxwood model without the necessity of cutting all of the framing. For me, without power tools, that was a critical plus factor.
 
Bob

THE BOAT


of Caroline



Not a film from Petersen ......................it´s  built by Tarjack


The screenplay





The scene scripts





The main roles



The left and the right hand of the D/T ...................................................... arjack
 

Bovine bone
Saw
Jigsaw
etc.
etc.
pp
 
 
 
 
The Set
 
 

 
 
 
Regie
 
 
 

 
 
 



Now for the movie ............ .................................. ääääähhheehe the building report

Usually here comes the chick with the cold drinks and the great ..................................... Eyes. What have you been thinking again ........................ piglets

During the planking of the boat I have taken no pictures.  (yesiknowbymyselfitspity)
The material has been lost in the editing room.   (whobelives)

In the first photo you can see how the frames are bent into shape after cooking. For this, the strips can be pinned on the form block for the boat and after drying they stay in shape. They are then glued. The frames are divided into two. The floor timbers are prepared in situ. The preformed ribs could be fit without problems.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The installation of the floor boards, Wash-board, thwarts and Remmleisten I did ...... but unfortunately not photographed (yeahyeahallwaysthesamestory) :angry:
 
 
 
 
 


But now jahaa enough photos that goes well.
Install the knee to support the thwarts was a real hassle.

 

The Boat-rudder- blade, of course combed into two parts was a great experience again.
 
 
 
 

The tiller a little challenge.
 
   
 

The bracket for the mast looks quite good, is not it.
 



The Stern-sheets and the side covers were also in line.
 
 


In between sample seats for the crew ...... * lol *
 
 



Then remove the sloppiness and make new: Customize grating clean. Gunwale back down and re-done, because wrong, this time with oarlocks. Set the Thwartknee to the correct position.
 
 
 

The Thole-boards were a real challenge. Tiny, shaped in three directions, with stop bar!
Then the fitting and final assembly this time right Gunwale.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Now a few settings using "director's cut" of the repairs of fixtures. (Botch eliminate)
 
   
 

Again a few parts for the box of memories!
 
 
 


The flagpole:
 


The flagpole with 4 hex taper is made from the blank. Then from the 4 hex to 8 hex, and now  in the lathe.
Looks good does not it?
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Even turned the mast and mast trunks and leadership of the shell is finished, lacking only the turned wooden knob at the top.

TATAAAA there he is.
 



The rudder also still needs the finishing touches


And in the end the whole thing, the crown is placed
 
       
 
 
 
 
 
CUUUUUUUUUUUUT
 
 
The  Take
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
Dear Congregation, I hope that you have enjoyed the "film".
A continuation of the movie series is in progress
 
So long and have fun
 
 
 
 

She's looking beautyful.

Planking is now underway. I began by installing the keelson and then did the limber strakes and limber boards. I also did the ceiling out to the first thickstuff. All of the planking was done with boxwood. After installing and trimming the planking, I treenailed it, using bamboo skewers and a Byrnes drawplate. I found the hardest thing to do was to split the bamboo skewers into pieces small enough to go through the drawplate. The treenails will show better when finish is applied to the planking. Interior planking will now continue out to the lower deck clamps.
 
Bob

This installment covers the completion of the mast installation and standing rigging.This work began with the installation of the topmasts and their pendants, shrouds, ratlines,stays and backstays .It continued with  the jibboom with it's horses, thimbles and traveler and also the bowsprit horses and netting. It finished with the topgallant masts and their shrouds, stays and backstays. As with the lower masts, the work proceeded from the mizzen forward.  The last photo shows the model with the masting and standing rigging complete.
 
Bob

As far as I know the cant frames are sitting under another angle on the deadwood as shown on the original drawings.This simplification was made to build the  hull only with double frames.
I will get the original drawing of the NMM later this year and will prepare some drawings because I like to build the model after HMS Fly with the original frame design as shown on the original drawings. If I can fix the problem with the MSW drawing I let you know.

Hello Dear Friends,
thank you very much for your comments, I appreciate them a lot.
The bow section of the French corvette was completed.
Here you can see the bow, with the now mounted equipment parts.
You can see also the figurehead in some pics.

 

 

 

 
The small seawater pump on the bow was, among other things for the hygiene of the crew on board.
See the LINK.

 

Larry, sorry to say, but I think you will become some problems with the layer method if you sand down the deadwood to it's original size. It's very important to taper the inner layer before glueing the other layers on it. Please have a look at the description.
 
Edit: I changed the link to the description on MSW, perhaps it's helpful.

Thanks for looking in again John, Druxey, Adeline, Ben, Allan and Pat.
 
 
Right on the waterline Ben. The way it's been drawn in TFFM leads me to believe it's rebated, though it isn't mentioned in the text.
 
Hi all,
 
There are three Bands around the upper section of the rudder to strengthen it. These were hammered on hot on the real ship and not bolted, although I don't know how they would have done that with the lower one - the rudder is thinner in section at that point than it is at the top. I silver soldered the two top ones and just epoxied the lower one.
 
All the pintles, bands and spectacle plate have been epoxied in place - they will also be "bolted". The epoxy makes a bit of a mess, especially when you make a slip with the toothpick. It's easily cut off after 15 minutes drying time - a lot better than trying to wipe it off when wet ... that makes an even bigger mess   .
 
The hole for the Tiller has also been cut in - this hole tapers from 9" square to 7" square at the aft end - quite a trick to get right. I made the taper on the tiller as well to ensure it will fit later on.
 





 
  Danny

The final pieces of the rudder itself - I've inserted 52 blackened brass "bolts" into the pintles and also the 19 bolts that go through the main piece and blade to hold them together :
 


 
  Danny

Hello .
Changing the anchor lines nodes,
according suggestion for improvement by Gerard Delacroix. 
Karl
 

Time now to move on to the making and installing of the masts and the standing rigging. This installment will go through to the rigging to the lower masts. The kit contained neither materials nor plans for the masting and rigging. The work was done with reference to TFFM Vol. IV and to Lees, "The Masting And Rigging Of English Ships Of War".
 
The bowsprit and the masts were all made from dowel, tapered and shaped as necessary. The square sections of the lower masts were cut in and flats filed for the addition of the cheeks, hounds and bibbs. On the top masts, the square heads were cut in and the other square and octagonal sections were built up. Lacking a lathe, I have found this easier than working from square stock. The caps and tops were made from boxwood.  Having now seen the work of Remco and Blue Ensign, my list of "I wish I hads" includes the detailing found on their masts.
 
The deadeyes used were all commercial, but all of the hearts and the long tackle and sister blocks in the standing rigging were made using boxwood strip. The standing rigging was all done with black Morope. As is my habit, I started with the bowsprit and then proceeded to the lower mizzen and worked forward. 
 
 
The rigging started with the bowsprit gammoning, bobstays and shrouds and then proceeded through the pendants, shrouds, stays, preventer stays, catharpins, futtock shrouds, ratlines and  crowsfeet for the lower masts. I also added various lead blocks including those for the upper stays and the jeer blocks and pendants. I had never done crowsfeet before and found them to be a considerable challenge.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

As far as I know the cant frames are sitting under another angle on the deadwood as shown on the original drawings.This simplification was made to build the  hull only with double frames.
I will get the original drawing of the NMM later this year and will prepare some drawings because I like to build the model after HMS Fly with the original frame design as shown on the original drawings. If I can fix the problem with the MSW drawing I let you know.

As far as I know the cant frames are sitting under another angle on the deadwood as shown on the original drawings.This simplification was made to build the  hull only with double frames.
I will get the original drawing of the NMM later this year and will prepare some drawings because I like to build the model after HMS Fly with the original frame design as shown on the original drawings. If I can fix the problem with the MSW drawing I let you know.

As far as I know the cant frames are sitting under another angle on the deadwood as shown on the original drawings.This simplification was made to build the  hull only with double frames.
I will get the original drawing of the NMM later this year and will prepare some drawings because I like to build the model after HMS Fly with the original frame design as shown on the original drawings. If I can fix the problem with the MSW drawing I let you know.

As far as I know the cant frames are sitting under another angle on the deadwood as shown on the original drawings.This simplification was made to build the  hull only with double frames.
I will get the original drawing of the NMM later this year and will prepare some drawings because I like to build the model after HMS Fly with the original frame design as shown on the original drawings. If I can fix the problem with the MSW drawing I let you know.

Pintles
 
I made the rudder Pintles from 1.6mm thick brass sheet. First I milled most of the inside, leaving a thin piece at the bottom for strength while the rest of the work was carried out :
 

 
Then I cut each piece from the main sheet, sanded the angle at the fore end on the disc sander and drilled the holes for the Pins and bolts :
 

 
I filed out the thin centre and silver-soldered in the Pins :
 


 
Next job was to mill the rebates for the straps and recess the fore ends. For a Mill Cutter I ground the point of a 1.6mm drill flat - perfect tiny cutter (note - I only left a very short piece protruding from the chuck so it wouldn't snap off). The last two pics are of a dry-fitted pintle :
 



 
Then I lightly blackened them to simulate bronze :
 

 
And finally another dry-fit :
 



 
  Danny

Hi all,
 
Work continues on the Rudder. I've cut the tabled and glued-together Main Piece and Blade to the required angle and shape. I've also glued on the Backing Piece and Sole Piece, tapered the assembly from top (14") to bottom (10") and cut in the recesses for the Pintles :
 




 
  Danny

Hi Guys. Another update for you and this time as far back as we can go on the orlop, but has more to do with strengthen the transom's more then the Orlop deck. Some call them sleeper beams and Goodwin call's them transom knee's, which you can see on page 108 in his book Sailing Man of War,1650-1850.In the photo's you will also see the last beam of the gun deck along with knee's for the deck transom and the knees for the last deck beams. Most 3rd rates had three of them per side. Hope you enjoy the photo's folks.