AnobiumPunctatum

This will be a really wonderful model of an old ship. Do you have Langley also as model in her 30er years appearance?

I've just changed the way I do the frames - instead of assembling the frame and then putting it in place, I've just started making the frame in its constituent pieces, making sure everything fits properly dry fitted, then gluing it in piece by piece.
 

 

 

 
I find this allows the frame pieces to fit more tightly inside the planking. Hardly any extra work, and a better result. And it's probably the way they did it back in the day (but with nails/treenails instead of glue, of course). 
 
Steven 

This will be a really wonderful model of an old ship. Do you have Langley also as model in her 30er years appearance?

This will be a really wonderful model of an old ship. Do you have Langley also as model in her 30er years appearance?

This will be a really wonderful model of an old ship. Do you have Langley also as model in her 30er years appearance?

This will be a really wonderful model of an old ship. Do you have Langley also as model in her 30er years appearance?

Hi all
 
Small update on shipping times to US.
Package i sent 2nd of September arrived today so about 2 weeks with normal postal service.
 
Vahur
Hobbymill.EU

I will start with th MSW capstan project and the Echo cross-section model. Than I will go back to my Triton project,

I know, but one step after the other. Before I start with Rhino, I will prcatice with my new toy. For the first steps I use my old 2D CAD.

Hi Christian,
 
This is very possible. I think it's more that the original drawing was done in Rhino, then rendered to PDF as a raster image, then the pixels have been brought back into Rhino. Thus it's very difficult to tell exactly which pixel goes at exactly which point.
 
You can get a 90 day trial of Rhino for free from their website.

I've done the step in the other direction. I own since a fey days a cnc-mill and now I am saving my money for Rhino.
Is it possible that the three views are not really perpendicular to each other?
I know the same form my 2D works. The point on the drawings are the same but not the 2D representation of the lines. There are always small differences. It's a problem with using splines.

Really nice result in this small scale. The hull is looking great.
 
I would use only color to simulate the nails. You can use a nail of pin for painting. With a little bit of practice you can get a nice result.

Really nice result in this small scale. The hull is looking great.
 
I would use only color to simulate the nails. You can use a nail of pin for painting. With a little bit of practice you can get a nice result.

Really nice result in this small scale. The hull is looking great.
 
I would use only color to simulate the nails. You can use a nail of pin for painting. With a little bit of practice you can get a nice result.

Really nice result in this small scale. The hull is looking great.
 
I would use only color to simulate the nails. You can use a nail of pin for painting. With a little bit of practice you can get a nice result.

Really nice result in this small scale. The hull is looking great.
 
I would use only color to simulate the nails. You can use a nail of pin for painting. With a little bit of practice you can get a nice result.

A-A-A-A-N-D . . . PLANKING IS COMPLETE!
 
Last steps . . .
 
 

 
All planks in place - pushpins removed.
 

 

 
And it came off the plug without damage!
 
There was an initial problem - the clingwrap had got torn in a few places during the planking procedure, and a couple of planks had stuck lightly to the plug. I had to ease a blade between the planking and the plug to free them up. Fortunately it was only the very last layers of planking, so I could free them up. A bit of careful jiggling back and forth, and VOILA! 
 

 
 (I tore the clingwrap to get the ship free - this is the bit left behind between the planking and the plug).
 
And here she is free and clear.
 

 

 

 
Rather a pretty shape, I think  .
 
Now, there's a possibility that the hull might squeeze inward without frames, so the next job is the cut the plug into crosswise slices - one for each frame - and then make frames based on those shapes.
 
All good  .
 
Steven

Current progress on the planking:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I was just about to finish the second-last strake, when - AGHAST! I've been using a 1mm drill to make the holes for the push pins (after nasty painful experiences pushing them in when I was making the dromon), and I just broke my last drill bit. We're currently in lockdown, so I have to wait till I can get new ones click-and-collect from Bunnings . . .
 
Interesting - I'm not exactly following the lines I drew on the plug for the planks - I think the planks are trying to tell me something - that my own lines weren't right. Certainly the planking looks better than what I'd drawn.  So, pretty happy with it all.
 
Steven 

Thanks everybody for the likes and i particular thanks Woodrat, Druxey and Bolin for the info on bow/sternpost planking.
 
Well, I've reached something of a milestone - I seem to recall Druxey saying the hardest bit of planking is getting to the turn of the bilge. Which I have now done! 
 
I've found that I'm doing an average of one pair of strakes every two days. Here's a pair of end planks.
 

 
I've been joining the planks in a strake with scarphs in the thickness of the plank. There's a lot of trial and error involved and quite a bit of adjustment needed to get the planks to fit properly and follow the line of the strake smoothly. Of course the upper side of the plank isn't as important as the upper, because it will be hidden by the next plank overlapping it. 
 
Sometimes it doesn't quite work at the ends and I have to put in slivers of wood to fill the gaps.
 

 

 
And then trim them off smooth.
 
So here's the sequence - progress photos as the planking gradually gets done.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Some more gap filling needed here. I'll get onto it in due course.
 

 
This end is rather better.
 

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I'm pretty happy with this. And the pattern of the planking is unexpectedly attractive. It's made me appreciate clinker construction a lot more.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Toni. I had cut stock in pear for the whelps at the beginning of the project so I will go with that.
 
I spent yesterday and today making the capstan barrel and retaining cap, using the lathe and mill method described in the instructions. I measured the various sections onto the boxwood blank and chucked it into the lathe with a live center on the end. I then rounded the whole length to 13" actual and cut the gasket and bottom sections an inch and 2" thinner. 
 

 

 
It was then time to move the chuck and the live center to the mill to mill the flat sections. Here is where it got interesting. I have the mill attachment for the Sherline lathe which has a pretty small cross slide. For this application I needed to mount the rotary table on the 90 degree stand on the cross slide with enough room on the other side to clamp the vise with the live center in it. I do have a second cross slide insert and a longer plate that I was able to use to get enough length on the cross slide but I had to mount the plate over the X crank which made turning the crank a bit difficult. There was just enough room so that I could mill the 3" of the 10 sided section without having to remount anything but it took a while to get there.
 

 
The real problem I had was getting the blank to be parallel to the cross slide which I thought I had done but it was a little off. I was able to clean things up with some files after milling with the the blank still in the rotary table. I milled the top square without any problems. I cut the barrel and retaining pin off the blank and test fit the barrel into the base. I ended up putting the barrel back into the lathe to reduce the bottom slightly so the the barrel could fit and turn in the base. My bottom was a little too short so I made a new retaining pin with a lip that fits into the hole. A piece of 1/8" dowel fits between the barrel and the pin to hold them in place on the base.
 

 
Next up is making the whelps.

Second to last paint cue. Some lovely aftermarket ships boats from Black cat and the shops guns are also on a slow boat from France as I decided the kit ones were just not good enough. 

 

The first of the 4 types of aircraft I’ll use on Thai build, as you can imagine I have quite a stash of spares in Pe, so firstly the Curtis Seagull, one as a trial to see how it looks then the first trial using some pe and brass rods 

Yes, and every part is really interesting. . So don't worry about this

Yes, and every part is really interesting. . So don't worry about this

While reading the work more thoroughly, I found the reason for the few discrepancies in Bind II.
 
In "Rekonstruktion af Osebergskibet Bind I" Chapter 6.2 page 98, Bischoff explains that some of the plans were hand drawn but processed digitally in Photoshop, and others were entirely digital and drawn in Rhinoceros.
 
Because Photoshop uses a raster interface rather than a vector one, it cannot do exact measurements. It can only do measurements to the nearest pixel at the working scale.
 
 
This thread is getting ridiculously long and I'm not even building with wood again yet, so I'll combine my next post with my last one.
 
I don't know if any of you remember how many months I spent agonizing over the keel alone. Even after I bought the Saga Oseberg book by Thomas Finderup I couldn't figure out exactly how it was shaped. Now I've got exact numbers for every single curve of it. Here is one mathematically perfect keel.