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Toolmaker

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  1.    druxey reacted to a post in a topic: Fractal vise on kickstarter
  2.    Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic: 'Oseberg' Viking Ship (v3) by James H - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1/25
  3. Toolmaker
    Have a look here James. I think they do various sizes and it’s local. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/CMK001
  4.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Fractal vise on kickstarter
  5.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Fractal vise on kickstarter
  6. Toolmaker
    1.2 inches for the standard version and 3.2 inches for the extended version
  7. Toolmaker
    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/metmo/metmo-fractal-vise https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/metmo/metmo-fractal-vise
  8.    archjofo reacted to a post in a topic: Napoleonic Era Miniatures by Thukydides - 1/700 - 3D-Printed Hulls
  9.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Napoleonic Era Miniatures by Thukydides - 1/700 - 3D-Printed Hulls
  10.    Thukydides reacted to a post in a topic: Napoleonic Era Miniatures by Thukydides - 1/700 - 3D-Printed Hulls
  11. Toolmaker
    Very enjoyable watching you develop your work on these miniatures. To remove the frustration of the fragile jointing on the masts I would default to soldering the joints. That would make them much more resilient to handling. keep up the good work Paul
  12.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  13.    Nirvana reacted to a post in a topic: Question re "Line Off"
  14.    robert952 reacted to a post in a topic: Question re "Line Off"
  15.    No Idea reacted to a post in a topic: Question re "Line Off"
  16.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Question re "Line Off"
  17. Toolmaker
    Thats as inspirational as it gets when it comes to planking.
  18. Toolmaker
    Fly-tying line should cover what you require. I have been using it with diameters down to 0.05mm. I am in the UK so my sources are not relevant, but you will find plenty of US suppliers.
  19. Toolmaker
    The advancements in wooden kit development are just fantastic. 1900 +, pre cut parts, over 6 kilo’s of wood, months of entertainment and all for around £200 sterling plus import. It’s a great review and the fact that Chris is prepared to stock it, further adds weighty kudos.
  20.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  21.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Byrnes Table Saw on Ebay UK
  22.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Byrnes Table Saw on Ebay UK
  23.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  24.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  25.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  26.    Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic: Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
  27. Toolmaker
    Good advice all around there. You would be asking the saw to do something it isn’t designed to do and if something went wrong you would be annoyed with yourself. It might also likely be dangerous to try. Hacksaw, milling machine, metal bandsaw are all good options.
  28. Toolmaker
    Hi George, I have recently done what you are asking about. I served various size ropes from 1.1mm down to 0.45mm. I served the 0.45mm using 0.05mm diameter fly tying thread. This thread is 1/9 the diameter of the served line and I thought that was acceptable. With a little practice It was reasonably easy using the Syren serving machine. For me the issue was seeing clearly what I was doing. For the fine threads I used a magnifier to watch the thread. This picture shows some practice, but the serving thread was a bit too fine, however it shows the idea. I am a beginner compared to many so open to criticism if I am doing wrong. I hope something here is useful. Thanks Paul
  29. Toolmaker
    Only this week have I finished rigging my HMS Cheerful so I am still running warm. I see lots of good advice above, especially about not buying tools before you have a specific need. You will certainly need 1 and likely 2 pairs of longish narrow tweezers and something to cut the line. I did most of my work with good quality small sewing scissors. My choice of make was fiskars. I also used a scalpel when rigging blocks off model. I used a helping hands system extensively and would find life more difficult without it. Used for stropping blocks etc. For serving I used the Syren version with some modifications, but I didn’t bother with serving on my first two builds. I use the same modelling clamps for adding tension to hanging ropes as I use during the build. The only thing I haven’t seen listed above which I like to have on hand are collapsible eye needles. They make threading through blocks a real breeze. The link is a uk one but I am sure you will find them anywhere in the world. https://www.thecuriousgem.co.uk/needles/beadalon-collapsible-eye-needles-assorted-sizes.html?srsltid=AfmBOoouysXEk_rNhhoVnaP66KHRpxEinAGwkJmAlkwoT-bk1JPEYrgt Enjoy the hull build first, then you can concentrate on the needs of the rigging. Good luck Paul
  30. Toolmaker
    Congratulations on your superb effort. Thanks seems so inadequate in consideration of all the pictures and instructions you have posted here. I am about to finish Cheerful having followed your build log alongside the instructions, as it is your level of skill, and more importantly, your patience, that is my aspiration. In the New Year I will begin my Winchelsea adventure and once again, I shall be using your build log as my guide alongside Chuck’s instructions. Cheers Paul
  31. Toolmaker
    Companies such as Dormer do drill sets down to 0.3mm which is a little smaller than number 80. These sets are readily available from various companies. Individual hss twist drills are easily sourced down to 0.2mm (-.008 inch). After that it’s getting specialised and prices start to take off. I’m in the uk so my links are only relevant to there. No doubt similar is available in the US.
  32. Toolmaker
    Yes Todd, I agree. I can use them in my Sherline for the same reasons. Just not suitable for hand work.
  33. Toolmaker
    In my opinion these are not generally suitable for our hobby. The reasoning is; They are pcb drills. That’s “printed circuit board” drills. They are designed to be run at many thousands of rpm, usually in air spindles doing 20-40k plus revs. They are also designed to be held rigidly and securely in controlled feed environments. They have a high helix angle (the flute spiral) and if you can’t control the feed rate they will screw themselves into wood rather than cut through it. They are indeed cheap as they are hugely mass produced for the pcb market. Selling them to hobbyists is just up-selling. Take all the above reasoning and then add in that they are made from very unforgiving tungsten carbide which will accommodate almost zero flexing and after the first or second time you break one in an already fixed in deck fitting you will realise you should not have bothered. Stay with hss, high speed steel. You won’t be sorry. A decent pin vice and a set of high speed steel drill will give you great service. cheers Paul
  34. Toolmaker
    Thanks for the suggestion Bob, BE's log is very impressive. I get the impression that he is happy to use something around 20% diameter of the main line which seems like a reasonable rule of thumb. I have a feeling I was off to a bad start with my post, likely mixing up the terms seizing and serving. Cheers Paul

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