Toolmaker
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
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glbarlow reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
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Congratulations on your superb effort. Thanks seems so inadequate in consideration of all the pictures and instructions you have posted here. I am about to finish Cheerful having followed your build log alongside the instructions, as it is your level of skill, and more importantly, your patience, that is my aspiration. In the New Year I will begin my Winchelsea adventure and once again, I shall be using your build log as my guide alongside Chuck’s instructions. Cheers Paul- 830 replies
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Saburo reacted to a post in a topic:
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Pulled the Trigger == Lathe coming
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
18th-Century Merchantman Half Hull Planking Kit by JacquesCousteau - FINISHED - NRG - 1:48
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
My newest Challenge
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?
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Roger Pellett reacted to a post in a topic:
Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Are there better tools for drilling tiny holes?
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Companies such as Dormer do drill sets down to 0.3mm which is a little smaller than number 80. These sets are readily available from various companies. Individual hss twist drills are easily sourced down to 0.2mm (-.008 inch). After that it’s getting specialised and prices start to take off. I’m in the uk so my links are only relevant to there. No doubt similar is available in the US.
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Yes Todd, I agree. I can use them in my Sherline for the same reasons. Just not suitable for hand work.
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In my opinion these are not generally suitable for our hobby. The reasoning is; They are pcb drills. That’s “printed circuit board” drills. They are designed to be run at many thousands of rpm, usually in air spindles doing 20-40k plus revs. They are also designed to be held rigidly and securely in controlled feed environments. They have a high helix angle (the flute spiral) and if you can’t control the feed rate they will screw themselves into wood rather than cut through it. They are indeed cheap as they are hugely mass produced for the pcb market. Selling them to hobbyists is just up-selling. Take all the above reasoning and then add in that they are made from very unforgiving tungsten carbide which will accommodate almost zero flexing and after the first or second time you break one in an already fixed in deck fitting you will realise you should not have bothered. Stay with hss, high speed steel. You won’t be sorry. A decent pin vice and a set of high speed steel drill will give you great service. cheers Paul
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Thanks for the suggestion Bob, BE's log is very impressive. I get the impression that he is happy to use something around 20% diameter of the main line which seems like a reasonable rule of thumb. I have a feeling I was off to a bad start with my post, likely mixing up the terms seizing and serving. Cheers Paul
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Beginning to Do Some Seizing
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Resurrecting this 8 year old thread as it was the only one that came up in my search for some clear guidance. I am in the process of doing some seizing on my HMS Cheerful. This 2016 topic led me to try using 6/0 thread size which measures 0.05mm or 2 thou (0.002 inches). If I scaled this up it would represent just 2.4mm or .096 inch which is seems likely too thin. Should I be using something at least double that thickness? In scale the shroud is around 2 inch diameter and something like a quarter inch sounds more likely. Interestingly it’s the first time I have had to use magnification to help with a task since I moved over to wooden building from plastic 3 or 4 years ago. In this instance I think it’s the size of the thread rather than my eyes deteriorating further. I would appreciate any input on this. Thank you Paul
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Toolmaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Naval figure set by Blue Ensign – Vanguard Models - 1:48 /1:64 scales
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A first class base is nothing more than this fabulous build deserves. You have certainly done this kit justice. Thank you for sharing your efforts. Paul
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Bending hard brass.
Toolmaker replied to navarcus's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
It might be worthwhile getting a larger piece of brass and machine the part you require. Saw and files or power tools if you have them. I think this method would be more easily controlled and offer you a better chance of success. Brass is quite soft and files to shape quickly. -
Can I ask if any of sets 1&2 have been sent across the Atlantic, and if so can you indicate the cost of the carriage? Thank you.
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OUTSTANDING Mini Drill
Toolmaker replied to Bill Jackson's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
For me, that would be a non starter as it lacks the control necessary for much of the work we do on model ships. To use it one handed relies on pressure to create a screwing effect. If you use it 2 handed the workpiece needs to be fixed. Unless I have the piece fixed in a mill/drill machine then I always use one of these; Designed for one handed use, pressure easily controlled on start and break through. The blue one is my favourite as it has a mini chuck and the bearing system works well.
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Citadel paint is designed for hand painting and it really is very good to use. On the other hand Tamiya acrylic (although it’s solvent based) is designed for use in an airbrush and can be difficult to hand brush. Add some retarder for better results.
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Drill bit suggestions
Toolmaker replied to SiriusVoyager's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any decent HSS, high speed steel, bit should hold up, hand drill or otherwise. Avoid carbide drills unless in a powered milling machine type environment. They are too brittle and prone to break easily when used in/for the purses e you describe. -
Apologies if this is drifting from your build but I feel it’s worth noting for people looking to build to scale. I just checked five different 25lb monofilament fishing lines and they were all different. The range was from 0.37mm to 0.52mm. Now 0.15mm which is .006 inch does not seem much, but the variation is actually more than 40%. Hence me suggesting it is better to know the required diameter rather than the breaking strain. Very nice start by the way.
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The mark for the “planking band” takes care of this. Prior to marking any bulkheads you have divided the hull into x amount of planking bands with, usually, narrow tape. This is marked as the bottom of the planking band. You would now determine how many strakes from your existing planks to the bottom of the band and mark your bulkheads accordingly. I understand you are up to date to this point. As for marking the filler block, you are still looking to mark the same number of strakes to the bottom of the band. Divide the distance from existing planking yo the bottom of the band by the number of strakes and mark up. if you wanted to mark all along the filler block you can lay your paper from the mark on bulkhead 1 to the mark on the rabbet and pencil along the paper top but I don’t find that necessary. if I have missed the point of your question then I apologise for misunderstanding it. Regards Paul
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Outstanding high standards Glenn. Every picture an inspiration. I have high ideals, which of course is not the same as high standards, but I would be beyond joyous if able to match those standards you are displaying. I am learning my trade on Cheerful but 2025 will be Winchelsea year and along with Chuck’s monographs I shall be having your build log with me as escort. Thank you Paul
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