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Toolmaker

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    Dwygyfylchi

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  1. That is some fab work you are doing. Very impressive. If you haven’t tried this you might want to give it a go if you need very small turned diameters. It’s an old machinist’s method where you start with a larger sturdier diameter, one that won’t noticeably flex when you make the cut. I can’t vouch for wood as I never machined it professionally but I could take a .500 brass bar and machine a .020 diameter by 1 inch long. The tooling has to be geometrically correct, and of course it has to be on centre. You also have to hit the required finished diameter on the first cut as you certainly cannot take a second cut. I suspect with wood, you would need to take the grain into account.
  2. If it helps, I just tried this. Using the hand wheel method on the Sherline I drilled a .1875 (3/16) hole to a depth of .375 (3/8) in under 4 seconds. Probably the worst aspect is not the drilling, but the retraction. That always feels a little annoying but on the plus side the control aspect is very good.
  3. That made me chuckle. Many years ago a colleague got his “S” and “Z” mixed up and sent the turret into the headstock on a fairly large (and expensive) cnc lathe at 3 metres per minute feed rate. The complete 10 station turret detaching and dropping onto the swarf conveyor had us all on our toes.
  4. Interesting. The Hardinge HC was often fitted with a similar attachment. I was a long time user of Hardinge machines in a past life and for small part, high precision, non automatic production work, they were probably unbeatable.
  5. Capacity and power? What size workpiece do you want to machine. What material do you want to machine and how much metal do you want to remove in a cut. Not withstanding, how much space can I dedicate to the machine and how much machine running noise is acceptable. If it’s true model making you want and it has the capacity (workpiece size) you need, then Sherline is a great piece of kit for the money. Sherline is way ahead of Proxxon and is excellent in all ways straight out of the box. It was my choice and they have to be imported to the UK making them considerably more expensive than you can get them for in the States. Take a look and see how well developed their whole system is. My decision was also aligned to me wanting to use my modelling machines in the house rather than a “workshop”. Hope that helps a little Paul
  6. I find a list of all the logs (topics) you have started, by; Click your user name Click “see their activity” Click “Topics” on left side
  7. I have managed to miss a couple of your updates Mark but enjoying catching up now. Glorious craftsmanship, really lovely. Those gratings look fab. An additional method that can work for large radius requirements (like the top of the gratings) is to put a fly cutter in the mill and then kick the head over. One side of the radius sweep will give you a concave and the other side will give you a convex surface. Just to mess with your head a little more, using a rotary table for the work piece, and then a fly cutter in a tilted head can produce convex/concave spheres. As I said, brilliant work mate.
  8. It’s always a highlight when you post an update Mark and your latest is no exception. I became fully enabled recently when I made my purchase from Ancre. Le Rochefort, like yourself, will be my first scratch build, and the driving factor in that decision has been your fantastic effort. That said, I still have a couple of years work on my Winchelsea so you won’t be flooded with questions anytime soon. From our previous chats you won’t be surprised to hear that I have recently built three quarter galleries for Winchelsea, and I still have one more to do! Keep up the fab work mate, it’s inspirational. You definitely have a bitt of an idea.
  9. Shown as available here; https://www.shipwrightshop.com/contents/en-uk/d22_Admiralty-Paints-Individual-Colours.html
  10. Here is a descriptive post from a couple of years back explaining my process.
  11. You likely know this but your support piece (the glued together planks) needs to be measurably thinner than the plank you are cutting. If not when you exert downward pressure with your fingers you will be potentially clamping on the support piece rather than the plank you want to cut. I cut my planks like you but I don’t use a packing piece. I also tend to make 4 or 5 lighter cuts rather than trying to cut it through in one go. This helps preventing any movement. I then finish with a sanding stick.
  12. Here is another tool offering the same capability but using a different method. This one uses a fixed drill shank size but the diameter of the material is less critical. https://hobbyisthaven.com/pages/dspiae-9-in-1-assistance-bench-tool?utm_source=fb&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Jun+18th+Dspiae+Platform+–+New+landing+–+UK%26CA%26AU&utm_content=Photo1_+Medium&utm_term=UK%26CA%26AU&placement=Facebook_Desktop_Feed&audience=new_cust&utm_id=120228898377920471_v2_s02&campaign_id=120228898377920471&ad_id=120228898378080471
  13. The link is to a short one page thread of mine showing simple “fittings” ideas. Those little spring clamps are used extensively. I find them continually useful with my ship building. Hopefully of some use Paul
  14. Have a look here James. I think they do various sizes and it’s local. https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/CMK001
  15. 1.2 inches for the standard version and 3.2 inches for the extended version
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