DaveBaxt

Thank you Roger. I have done a test run by adjusting the outlet pressure to aproximatley 7b when the compressor cut out. So the on /off pressure switch is set at 7 bar (factory set). As I haven,t got an airbrush yet (In the post)so I reduced the pressure by opening the drain cock on the bottom of the tank until the compressor re started again which was around 5 bar. So all would appear to be operating as per normal. I think you are correct in thinking the gauge is either faulty or there is a blockage to it. As the tank pressure gauge looks to be on the same outlet pipe/manifold as the outlet gauge (fitted after the pressure regulating valve) which is working fine, I think it is now fairly certain to be one or the other faults you mentioned and probably a faulty gauge. I have thought about swapping over the two gauges to prove this one way or the other but if I damage anything I will lose the warranty so think I will leave it for now . It now looks like I will have to contact Hyundai on Monday and see what they have to say. Hopefully they will give me a new one but that is a fair bit of hassle.perhaps they could send me a new gauge to change but I doubt that and just in case the fault is something different. Thank you again Roger for your help and patience,best regards Dave

Thank you Jim that was already in the start up instructions Now that I figured out what the pressure switch does I let the compressor run up to the tank pressure ot 7 bar by adjusting the outlet pressure and winding in the pressure regulator and worked out that at least I know that the cutting in and out between 5 and 7 bar is working so all good apart from the large tank pressure gauge. However I am a little worried that the tank relief valve is on the same manifold as the gauge so it would really be nice to get th gauge working. I will have to get in touch with hyundai and get this sorted befor I properly use it.

I have just removed this from the box and read the instructions which are very poor( no drawing showing the different parts apart from the wheels on the bottom and the air intake filter)I fitted the air intake filter and closed the drain valve. I am still waiting for the airbrush and hoses to arrive but thought I would give it a run anyway. So switched on as per instructions. All would apear to be working ok with the small gauge gradually rising as expected. However the large gauge which I think is for the tank does not apear to be working . I also adjusted the outlet pressure to what the gauge is showing. The compressor I think unloads but does not cut out but instructions say that it should cut out?. There does not apear to be any change in noise level at this point. What am I doing wrong?

All great news and saved me a few quid. I also see Vallejo do a bottle of improver and assume this to increase the length of time the paint stays wet but not sure how this works and wether or not this can be achieved with thinners or not. I am now assuming that you don,t need a cleaning kit as well or is that wishfull thinking? Thank you again for your help.

Further to my previous post. I have searched through the Vallego range of colours for the airbrush (Vellego air) although I have been able to find Copper metalic in this. I have been unable to find Verdigris green for the airbrush. However there is an Acrylic in Verdigris glaze https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/vallejo-model-color-verdigris-glaze-17ml/ The effect I am trying to achieve using a spray gun is this. https://www.house-painting-info.com/articles/verdigris-copper-finish/#.Y8qwS33P3y8 Sorry if this appears I have hyjacked this thread but just thought we wanted to keep everything about painting in one place. I am assuming as the verdigris glaze is an ordinary acrylic and it will require thinners.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-71161-Airbrush-Thinner-200ml/dp/B07R92M8KJ/ref=asc_df_B07R92M8KJ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=640942265265&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16352605636914171057&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007202&hvtargid=pla-923378725103&psc=1 and I assume this is the same make so should be fine although not sure about the biege?There is an alternative so could try this https://www.everythingairbrush.com/product/vallejo-airbrush-cleaner-85-ml/As I am a total novice using an airbrush , I will also need a airbrush cleaning kit as well as some airbrush cleaning fluid. So again I have gone with Vallejo ( although perhaps this is not neccessary but thought same cleaner as the paint I am using. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Air-Airbrush-Cleaner/dp/B002X6BNYQ/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_w=LHOnk&content-id=amzn1.sym.172092ab-c479-4d61-89c2-c4779d5cf2b4&pf_rd_p=172092ab-c479-4d61-89c2-c4779d5cf2b4&pf_rd_r=4PX6AJ4FWX06V0BB69X6&pd_rd_wg=a6Qss&pd_rd_r=63afbd4d-d27a-4ffe-bacd-3edd8a791bc9&pd_rd_i=B002X6BNYQ&psc=1 There is probably a lot more that I will need over time but hopefully this will get me started and give me something to aim at and get me practicing. I will also need a cleaning kit and came across one by Harder and Steener ( same make as my airbrush) which has a number of different sizes brushes, seals and a reamer. This kit is not cheap but wonder if it could be worth it in the long run. It comes with an airbrush holder too. I do apologise once again for going off the theme somewhat and thank you for your help and patience to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Best regards Dave

Thank you Wefalek for a quick response. I can see there is quite a number of different colours for Airbrushing and wonder if anyone has tried any of these colours on a hull to look like a weathered copper bottom. Something in that I am thinking of trying on my next model. This is a great thread by the way and in someway explaining what is and what is not possible with or without the correct procedures. Hopefully one day I will become proficent in both hand and airbrushing.

What make of pre thinned Acrylics are you use and are there any other you can recommend?Hopefully I can find the colours I need or something similar.

As I am now the proud owner of the required equipment of an airbrush and compressor ,Bob you mentioned the colours of both 'Penny brown and verginas green for colours which would look similar to weathered copper plates. I am now hoping I can get these colours in a ready to go Acrylic paint,which does not require thinning. Ate there any preferences of makes of paint. The larger bottles would be better as I will need ther practice , that is once I am happy using water. Also what primers are suitable for using on an airbrush for wood or are we still better using shellac but with a brush to seal the would and then lightly sand down to make a smooth surface. I am also wondering if a smooth surface is not required and perhaps some streaks using a fan type brush would make things look realistic. Sorry for all the questions , thank you again for your time and patience. Best regards Dave

All good Points Jud. Thank you

Nice find Allen and interesting models too. I do wonder what knots are on the end of those ropes. Clove hitch or something similar?

Thank you Allan for your input. I too would like to know how the boats are properly secured. I have not as yet been able to find any information on the subject and suspect that this is achieved by a simple tie down of some discription. I am not familiar either with what sort of knots could be used but I expect there are quite a few to choose from. I do not own the AOTS Endeavour but I was lucky someone sent me a picture of the masts together with the boats and the above method of using of deadeyes. It does seem a bit overkill but for once I have used AOTS for reference in this case. I have seen a few modellers using blocks instead of deadeyes which I was thinking of using on my next model the HMS Diana. Perhaps I might come across something different again during my next build which gives me a better idea. Looking forward to building the Diana's 4 boats from Vanguard models. Hopefully with better results.

I ended up using the 2 part epoxy glue as this give me a bit more time to position the seats and floors etc. All made from 0.5x 3mm and 1 mm x 4mm Walsnut strips. I also managed to get hold of some rowlocks but there was only 1 pkt left (10) so didn,t have enough for all of the boats. The 65 mm oars have come from Vanguard models which I think are much nicer than the brass oars which came with the kit. I secured the top and bottom boats using 0.25mm black thread and 3 mm deadeyes and securerd the spare top masts using 0.1mm biege thread for securing the spare top masts. As my spare masts are actually longer than the Caldercraft ones they may or may not cause problems when belaying the running rigging to there pins as some of them are beneath the spare top masts. I got the idea of using the dead eyes from AOTS book although I am unsure how acurate these are but thought it would be a neat way of securing the boats. Perhaps I could have used blocks instead of deadeyes. A All in all I am not too happy with how the boats turned out from the kits, fortunately I will be using Vanguard ship models boats for my next ship the HMS Diana.

I like the look of that trawl net Andrew and can think of quite a few uses for something like that and wondered where you got it from? Your model is look fantastic and the workmanship is something to be proud of. You will soon be looking for something new to build. Dave

Interesting colours your Bounty Hull. Thank you for sharing this with us.

Thank you Bob for setting me up with something to help me on my way with consideration of viewing distance and also with investing in an air brrush of some discription and learning how to use one away from the model itself. I have been toying with buying one for a while and you have convinced me that it will be an upgrade on my not so great skills with a brush. You have also given me a lot to think about and hopefully I can process this in time. Your patience Thank you again Bob for both your help and patience. Best regards Dave

Well Rob the paint job on your Nautilis is truely amazing as is the subject too. If I could acheive such as that on my Diana hull (minus the rivets) I would be truely happy.Perhaps one I sealed the would perhaps with practice, this could be acieved.I live in hope.

Thank you Jaager for the upside on air brush. What sort of paper is used and I am assuming you pant the paper then cut into tiles anddo the overlap, or is there a different way to go. Paint the hull then add tissue paper over the top? Just a few questions that flood into my head. Any links to procedures would be appreciated. Fortunately as this is for my next ship I have a lot of time to research and practice different methods.

Ok thank you guys for some great answers.For the record the model I am working on is 1:64, so way smaller than 1:12 so I should not really see any nails or possibly any overlap either. Although I am not sure if overlap is date related but at neither 1761 or a scale of 1:64 would I see any overlap of plates. As a beginner I have neither experience of using the copper plates, foil or have used an air brush. I have made a pretty good job of hull planking on my previous 3 models( If I can even suggest such a thing) so wonder why I would want to cover them with copper tiles but fear the results of other methods. The use of paints with actual metal parts interests me and that can be applied by a brush, although I haven't ruled out requiring an air brush, but no doubt lots of practice would be required using either. Also hopefully as lots of instruction would be needed with either air or paint brush so hopefully it is out there.One question I would ask if I may are all of these above methods re versable ie can it be removed at start again. Thank you again for your time and patience, best regards Dave

Just been reading up on gluing copper tiles/ copper tape to ships hull and the fact that these are generally way over scale ( at least the tacks are) so my questions are has the above been attempted in anyway and if so, what sort of success is achieved and what is the process for achieving something that would look realistic and also to scale? I know this subject has been brought up in the past but anything updated recently with new products coming out all the time. Best regards Dave

Maybe the wooden oars are a recent upgrade on the brass ones. I am currently using the 67mm oars on my boats for my Endeavour as I believe they are much nicer to work with and paint. I too have just orderd the same boats as you for my Diana but unfortunatly the 18' Cutter is out of stock but Chris reckons they will be back in a couple of weeks. I was imediately convinced after looking at the instructions and see how good the boats look. I am looking forward to seeing how you get on with them Dave.

David May I ask a question regarding the boats from Vanguard models did the kits come with the oars or did you buy the other ones by Vanguard and if so what size of oars did you go for ,75mm or 64mm? I am also not that keen on the brass oars ,supplied by Caldercraft. I also noticed the 18/ Cutter is out of stock,but hopefully they will be back in by the time I get around to them. Best regards Dave

I have also found that the Caldercraft boats on not very good. I too will be going down the Vanguard route so very much interested in how you get on with them.

Good points regarding the length of the drill . I thought I seen one somewhere with a 3mm shank It came with a set . perhaps Proxxon but may have been larger than 0.5mm. You are correct it is very flexable. Sorry to come of the subject a bit. I should have sent you a PM. but good to hear that you are happy with it, as that is what counts. I think its terrific and wish my level of workmanship was as good.Best regards Dave

Thank you guys for giving me something to work with. I am not sure I have anything other than wood/metal primer and or epoxy glues and CA but will do a few searches for plastic primer and see what I come up. It is always a good Idea to test with areas which can,t be seen first,so thanks for reminding me. Best regards Dave

Thank you Ron for your quick reply It is much appreciated. As I have some metal primer at hand , can I assume I can use this primer for both resin and metal primer or is different primer required? Best regards Dave