BANYAN

Thanks again, gentlemen, for your favourable comments.
 
A fishing boats needs some fish-baskets to store the sorted catch in.
 

Fish-baskets on the Marker botter in the Zuiderzeemuseum
 
I could not think a convincing method to fake such baskets and dropped ideas of using fabric or wire mesh – there would always be an unrealistic seam. If you have a closed or filled basket, you may sculpt it from something and imprint the woven pattern, but this does not work for empty ones. In the end, I decided to weave real baskets, well almost.
 

Tool for making (fish-)baskets
 
For this I needed a tool that would give the basket its shape and allow me to handle it while weaving. So I turned the little implement above from a piece of 5 mm diameter aluminium and drilled a 2 mm hole all the way through it. It will allow me make two baskets simultaneously. The material for weaving is another issue. I would have like to use wire, but it would have been difficult to actually weave with wire. So I used some thin cotton thread for the stakes and fly-tying yarn for the weave.
 

Weaving fish-baskets
 
First the ‚stakes’ were put into place by wind the thread around the form tool in a continuous series of loops, passing the return part through the middle of the center bore of the tool. This then was woven out with the fly-tying yarn using a sewing needle. The rim is a bit of a fake: normally the stakes would be bent back one over each other to produce a stable and decorative finishing. Here I made a double row of half-hitches with the weave, i.e. the fly-tying thread. Once this was finished, the ‚basket’ was soaked in wood stain and then a few dabs of matt varnish were applied to secure the weaving. The stakes with the exception of two on each side then were cut off flush with the rim. The remaining stakes were twisted into looped handles. Finally the stakes were cut around the hole in the bottom of tool. A bottom of the basket was faked by closing the hole with a good drop of white glue.
 

The finished fish-baskets
 
The baskets then were weathered using acrylics paint (umbra). After looking at the museum-picture, I noticed that I should paint onto the baskets the registration number of the boat - so that catch can be identified at the fish auction.
 
One may notice on the above photograph that in the meantime also the anchor, a grab, has been installed. Finding such small chain is a challenge, but I got something suitable from a Bavarian model railway supplier. While the links were nicely soldered and blackend, they were actually round. Anchor chains, however, have oval links. With a pair of pliers I slightly squashed the links into an oval shape.
 
wefalck

I'm guessing none of the above members are either Kit Builders or don't own a Byrnes Table Saw - that would be my pick. I use mine a lot more than I do my Mill.
 
9 times out of 10 I can get by with a Pinvise instead of my Dremel (unless I'm drilling a couple of thousand Treenails in one go   .
 
  Danny

Some 2nd planking,start from the keel up now.I'm not tapering the planks as i will probably paint the hull.Going good so far.

last week I did more work on the rack.........I thought it to be a small task,  but it's kinda dragged on.  I have had a nasty cold........it's now a dull roar,  and I feel much better.   I had done more sanding and shaping to the rack.....since I could not find the original wainscoting I had made for the build,  I just improvised around the base.

so it wouldn't get lost against the wall,  I gave it a light stain and a coat of lacquer.


 
 
 
now it's time for a little bit of hardware.   as you can see,  the depth of the rack,  hides the fact that the skis have no bindings.



 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Christian, David, Yambo and Pat .
 
 
Pat, believe it or not just the plastic top from a nail packet. It isn't totally clear, which gives the more textured look of old-type glass .
 
  Danny

Today I installed the deck slats to both AA gun decks.  I have to get used to seeing them on but I think it makes the model.
I stained the slats yesterday with a water soluble stain that's meant for leather.  It was not as easy as I hoped for.  The glue caused the stain to weep out and slightly colored the grey deck paint.  It's also not bonding as well as I thought it should.  It tested okay on a piece of scrap, so go figure.  To prevent the stain from weeping out I had to get some thicker Titebond, that helped a lot.  I would have liked to use CA but I needed to have the time to be able to move it a little, thus the PVA.
 
I also started with installing the railings on the gun decks.  All the stanchions are installed but still need to be trimmed.  They are made from 1 mm brass tubing, they are small enough and nice and stiff.  Then the snorkel exhaust pipe shroud need to me made and installed as well.  The aft hatch opens against it.
 
I also started with the AA gun mods, I think it'll work out okay.  I also cut parts for the lower con door hinges, that'll be a real challenge.
 

You can also see that removed some wood from the gun pedestal sides and front.  Next will be removing some wood on the top so I can install the square looking thingies there and the control wheels and the other things on top.  It all has to fit inside the buns.
 

 
Well, that's it for now
 
Cheers,

Hi Keith and thanks for looking in and your prompt   Actually, I have made some progress - the mizen is stepped and shrouds in place.  While I am remaking the boom, I am also making the Gaff to put in place (working from stern to bow in placing the masts.  Should only be a weel delay as the boom is mostly remade now - should be finished by the end of this week all going well.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Pedrsistence pays off -that is is serious shaping Mark with excellent results.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nicely presented Michael.  Thanks.
 
I take it you move and re-calibrate the fence for each additional slice?. 

Sorry to hear about the mishap. Though I agree you appear to have dodged  a bullet - it could have been way worse

Hi Pat,
 
Here's an obvious word of advice - DON'T WORK IN YOUR LAP   . This is what we use Building Boards for - whether the "right way up" or upside-down. Or even Tilting ones .
 
Just don't forget to screw the keel to the board, or you might get the same nasty shock I did when (despite all the best laid plans of mice etc ...) mine DID crash to the floor breaking the Stem .
 
  Danny

Ouch!   But you probably got as lightly as you could hope for, Pat!
 
John

Pat:
That could have been much worse. Other than making a new bowsprit, you appear to be in good shape.
 
Russ

Pat,
I'm not going to hit "like"...  I'm glad that the only damage was to the jib boom as Russ said, it could have been much worse. 

Done... on the port side at least. I'll finish up the starboard side and then attack the quarterdeck outer bulwarks.  Thank heavens they're not as radically shaped.  I do, however, really hate macro as I see some things that need fixing before final sanding, like a few gaps in the planking.
 

Thanks for the tip Mark, but it would have to be a VERY small chess set - the Crown is only 4mm high .
 
Pilasters
 
The final pieces of this jigsaw puzzle - the Pilasters. The first pieces I made were the Bases and Capitals. These were cut from a length of molded English Box :
 

 
The Columns were done in similar fashion, from long lengths of molded stock :
 

 
Some pics of the finished assembly ready for a coat of Minwax :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Stern Work
 
There is still some debate as to whether Endeavour's central window was a fully-functioning window or a dummy placed for aesthetics.  The shape of a window is definitely shown in contemporary drawing; however, it is very unlikely it was a functioning window due to its proximity to the Rudder post trunk in the main cabin.
 
The stern windows were made from beech wood and glazed with Liquid Gloss.  This is a two part compound comprising resin and a hardening agent.  There are several types of this product; I used Craft Smart which is available at Spotlight in Australia (see picture).  The mixture has a slow drying time so allows some time to fill/flow into the window panel spaces.  The mixture heats as it is mixed forming some bubbled.  These can be removed by using a straw to blow across the surface of the compound after pouring.  As with similar compounds, it contracts slightly as it dries tending to leave a hollow in the middle of the area.  This can be filled with a second application.
 

 
The figurines and counter decorations between the windows are the white metal versions provided in the kit, but cleaned up and painted.  I had enough on my plate (as a first build) learning all the other skills yet alone trying to carve.  This is something I will need to attack in the future though.
 
The stern decoration is not representative of Marquardt or the Endeavour Replica and reflects my attempt to try something different to the metal (nasty) looking decoration provided.  The base design was ordered from Double 'O' laser cutting service, I then made some further alterations to provide a stylised version of what I thought they may have looked like, rather the very heavy look of the decorations on the replica vessel.
 

 
The quarter badges are the white metal version provided with the kit; however, I carefully removed the cast window frame and replaced it with wood which I then glazed.
 

Rudder
 
The rudder is made from three pieces of walnut glued longitudinally and shaped to conform to the pattern depicted in Marquardt's drawings.  The following picture shows the rudder fitted; however the chain rudder pendants have yet to be fitted.  I'll do this after the rigging as they will be quite prone to damage.
 

 
The collar for the rudder is made from calico cloth which will eventually be treated with a diluted PVA solution stained a very pale/light grey and weathered to simulate canvas.  In the following photo you can see where I am starting to clean the edges and touch-up the paint.  This will all be second coated to give a uniform deeper colour.

And just as I was getting a roll on with the rigging ---- Disaster (well a minor disaster)   I don't know how many times I have read of this, and despite taking care, I still managed to drop my Endeavour while working on her in my lap - Bow first.  While attempting to refine the patch up on the mizzen deadeyes that had come adrift from their chain plates, I had to try to turn the model upside down to get at the bottom of the channels.  Well, some how or another I relaxed my grip, and in one of those surreal slow-motion events I saw her heading towards bow first.
 
Despite my efforts I was not quick enough!  The one small positive is that as she went plumb straight down all the impact was taken by the jib boom and as I had some rigging on it, appears to have absorbed all the damage.  The boom was broken in half and no other damage  from the drop.  however to get the inboard end off the model, I had to prise some of the deck planking away.  The attached shots show the initial deck repair (some aging to add but almost all will be covered by the new boom.  the other shot sows the shaped boom after bending into the required shape.
 
Oh well, something had to happen eventually; I just hope there are no more.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Thanks John, Alister, Mike, Greg, Brian and Slog for looking in and the encouragement.  Once I get these shrouds sorted I should be able to proceed at a better pace.
 
John, yeah, this was a surprise as these were silver soldered,  The served shrouds tend to not stay straight and need a little pressure to keep a neat appearance - perhaps I am serving them too tightly.
 
Greg, the shrouds are giving me enough grief (getting them to the right length as the serving on the foreleg of the front pairs proves to stiffen them, and then when the shrouds are 'pinched' together near the tops, it shortens them again (no planning/foresight by me on this so a big learning curve) - oh well live and learn - and... thanks (I think)) for the warning on the ratlin'
 
Slog, Mike and Greg, the basic idea for this rigging station is one adapted from Hubert Sicard (Wooden Ship Modelling for Dummies); he calls it his 'rigging crab' due to the multiple appendages.  I have made all bar the small drawers in the base (which dictated the width and depth of the station) which I obtained from an artists supplier (used to store their brushes etc) and are reasonably cheap.  The upright can be adjusted up and down depending on what length you need for the job at hand.  I still need to add an adjustment device on the horizontal that holds the alligator clips to give me just a little more room behind the rope when serving or whipping etc. The only other planned addition is a jig to hold the yardarms when rigging footropes but I haven't worked that out fully yet.
 
cheers
 
Pat 

I have to learn to stop re-inventing the wheel.  There was reason why Hahn did it the way he did it.  I've scrapped out all previous methods and did his way.
 
First, I spiled a piece of cherry (2 feet wide X 4 inches thick).

 
Then made Mr. Clamp to get the curve.

 
I soaked the wood for about 12 hours and clamped into place.  I ended up with all the curves and bends in the right places.
I can live with this.

 
Now to go glue them in place and get the ebony trim fitted and fixed into place.

Thank you Greg - no, the case made it to the bedroom but I DID turn on the workshop lights on my way past .
 
 
Garry ..... is that you ? Thanks Steve .
 
Thank you too John.
 
Upper Finishing
 
Work continues on the Quarter Badge. Here is the Upper Finishing under construction. I made it from English Box. The first step was to cut out the lower portion to fit around the bell :
 

 
Then I finessed the inner face to fit tight against the hull planking :
 

 
The outer face was sanded down to fit the curvature of the upper stool :
 

 
Then the upper section was cut on the scroll saw :
 

 
Finally it was rounded off. The flat section on the top will support a carving of a Crown, and the whole piece will be textured :
 

 

 
  Danny

And of course the steersman: 

As far as I'm concerned I declare the stove competition a tie.   Great work, Gary.  Nice chain on the rotisserie also.
 
Ron

Hi everyone,  I went and made a few items to go with the stove but after looking in on Remco stove and pot's, find his to be a lot cuter so going to have to do a little face lift on mine to make them just a tad cuter, if that's possible    Beside got to thinking, whats a stove with out  pot's and pan's.   Remco see what you went and made me do.  Gary