BANYAN

Now the main structure of the ship is nearing completion, will the next stage see the start of the masts and rigging, because I am highly intrigued how this will be brought to life matching the mind blowing quality of the ship so far.

After some discussion on and off line about tapering I felt I needed to do some testing of plank bending to see if I should follow tutorial instructions, Artesenia's instructions or Marquardt's drawings. 
I 'steamed' a plank in boiled water in a thermos for and hour then put it to the framing and started the compound bend required to meet Marquardts drawings.  I was pleasantly surprised to see just how forgiving the plank material is.   There are a couple of flats that have occurred due to clamping but the plank was pretty well unsupported as I bent it on the frames away from any other planks but following the planking lines I drew on the frames.  Still its pretty well followed the contours without objection so I will continue to follow the Marquardt drawings for the planking of ENDEAVOUR.  
NOTE: The loose piece on the outside of the bend is not a split.  Its a loose piece on the outside corner I caught when I thought about tapering but decided not too bother in case the bend failed.

 

This will be a nice addition to your miniature fleet Greg.  We have the 'Castlemaine' nearby, so if you have questions just holler
 
cheers
 
Pat

At that size, I think your plan should work.  I used a two-part 'liquid glass' product from Craftworks (sold in Spotlight) to do mine, but I have seen modellers also use PVA as it dries clear.   I have used acrylic rod inserted into thin wall brass tubing (cut a little thick then polished down to the required thickness) for my HMCSS Victoria build (
 
cheers
 
Pat

This will be a nice addition to your miniature fleet Greg.  We have the 'Castlemaine' nearby, so if you have questions just holler
 
cheers
 
Pat

This will be a nice addition to your miniature fleet Greg.  We have the 'Castlemaine' nearby, so if you have questions just holler
 
cheers
 
Pat

This will be a nice addition to your miniature fleet Greg.  We have the 'Castlemaine' nearby, so if you have questions just holler
 
cheers
 
Pat

This will be a nice addition to your miniature fleet Greg.  We have the 'Castlemaine' nearby, so if you have questions just holler
 
cheers
 
Pat

Next should be a quick build of a resin 1/350 Bathurst class minesweeper by Pacific Crossroads. Nice PE, resin and this will be a OOB build.  

Unfortunately, I can't say too much due to "Disclosure Limitations" Denis.  The movie is fiction and very loosely connected the ship.  They needed a model for the final scene and I had the only model available - so not about the model
cheers
Pat

At that size, I think your plan should work.  I used a two-part 'liquid glass' product from Craftworks (sold in Spotlight) to do mine, but I have seen modellers also use PVA as it dries clear.   I have used acrylic rod inserted into thin wall brass tubing (cut a little thick then polished down to the required thickness) for my HMCSS Victoria build (
 
cheers
 
Pat

A view of the seat frame located on the quarterdeck compared with a picture of the full size Olympias. I have built my model as closely as possible to Coates design drawings (the drawings sheets contradict one another in some cases - as you would expect from what was essentially a prototype for a reconstruction of a warship which hasn't been built in living memory...). These include:
1.Differences in framing of the stern.
2. Removal of the footrest from the Trierarch's chair.
3. Differences in the leather upholstering of the Trierarch's chair.
4. Removal of the handhold post at the head of the ladders from the quarterdeck to the gangway.
5. Additional bracketry alongside the steering oar slots.
I am sure some of these changes were incorporated at build and others were introduced as sea trials progressed. Not unlike my own experience of  designing  and building modern ships!
 

Yes Dave,  I have marked our all the planks now I'm at the taper stage (not shown in the image).  I remeasured after Allans comments made me a little apprehensive and have I confirmed 2.9mm Bow, 5mm Midships and 4mm Stern.  I am also bevelling all the planks top edges.
The visible seem gaps I have were a result of me not waiting till my planks were completely dry before glueing in place.  I have slowed to one plank layer a day now to make sure the planks are thoroughly dry before glueing in place.

Boats
 
Longboat:  After several unsuccessful attempts to build a plug (see picture) on which to build the boats, I was fortunate to be offered a 1/64 scale version of Chuck's 26 longboat templates.  I have included photos of some of these plugs which were designed for the cutter; I may still use one of them.  These are all sandwich constructed with two of them using vertical slices ('sliced bread loaf') and the other the more tradition 'bread and butter' horizontal slices.
 
When I received the smaller laser cut template from Chuck (many thanks), I did not have intentions of using it; rather, I was more interested in the larger 1:48 version he had created.  However, when I looked more closely at the smaller scale version provided by Chuck, I noted that, with very little modification, it fitted nicely to the dimensions of Endeavour's Longboat as described by both Ray Parkin and Karl Marquardt.

Both authors agree that a shorter and fatter (in the beam) design would have been required, with the shorter length to allow it to be stowed without interfering with the workings of the ship.  The wider beam allowed the boat to carry the required cargo, especially water casks.  By removing a couple of the middle frames from Chuck's design, the length and beam of the resulting longboat was correct to 1:60 scale for Ray Parkin's version for the construction of the longboat (94 mm x 35mm x 20mm).  However, I used Marquardt as the reference for the most likely fitting-out of the boat.
 
According to Parkin, the longboat would have been clinker built rather than carvel to provide a more robust boat that could be used to conduct the intended close-in coastal surveying (which I am assuming Cook would have wanted).  I have also adopted the two mast design with a sliding gunter rig, as this is what was clearly shown by the embarked artist, Sydney Parkinson (expedition artist/illustrator), in his sketches of the ship's boats.
 

 


The following photographs show the construction process for the longboat using Chuck's sacrificial bulkhead system to create the
skeleton/ribs of the boat. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The following photograph shows the near completed longboat; I have still to complete the oars, grapnel, masts etc.  I have painted the longboat mainly white as I believe it would have assisted with temperature control in the tropics, and provided higher visibility for the Endeavour's crew to monitor her movements during survey and coastal work.
 

Lantern

This was an accessory I purchased (Amati I think) and assembled and painted.  I chose it as it was relatively the right size.  This proved a bit fiddly as I had to edge glue the wired frames between the edges of adjoining plastic panes.  I am thinking of rebuilding this from scratch.

Other Builds
 
While completing this build, I have also been diverted with some other interesting builds along the way.  Amongst these are  having made a start on Chuck’s Syren and his Longboat.  I have also completed a Battle Station (based on Russ’ plans) - see here


 

Hull
 
Hi all, after a prolonged delay in starting this build due to many 'life' and other build pressures, i have finally found an opportunity to make a start on this build.
 
I have started assembling the main hull structure which came in 4 pieces.  These  hull parts fitted together very well once I removed one very minor joint fitting issue (needed to be trimmed/cut away), resulting in very tight joints that will require very little filling and sanding.  Bogey is aware of the joint issue now and and will address the master 3D model accordingly.


I have yet to fit the rudders and the propeller guards to the hull, but I have drilled out the two holes in the base to accept pedestal style display stands.  There are also the propellers and the anchors to fit, but these will be done after painting the hull.
 
I found the only CA that would work with this type of material was Loctite Pro, having tried at least 6 other brands.  This was not due to residue or the like as i gave the parts a thorough was in wheel cleaning solution using a soft toothbrush to give them a gentle brush, then a clean a Ultrasonic bath for 4 minutes before rinsing and then air drying in the sun (which also helped to set the parts as they need UV to harden them).  Initially I was put off with the parts appearing to get a white frosted coating but apparently this is normal and does not interfere with paint adhesion.


Extreme care is needed when handling the parts as this material is very brittle but it sure does show fine detail very well.  Not so evident n the attached photos but they will pop when the undercoat is applied.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work Eberhard;  think your 'yellow' choice is very close - well with much of the material I have seen while researching.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You're really making some serious progress on the rigging now Keith; looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Stunning joinery - nice work.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You're really making some serious progress on the rigging now Keith; looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You're really making some serious progress on the rigging now Keith; looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You're really making some serious progress on the rigging now Keith; looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You're really making some serious progress on the rigging now Keith; looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

You're really making some serious progress on the rigging now Keith; looking good mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat