BANYAN

Hi Eberhard; agree on the high prices.  One small point is that while the vise looks like the standard jeweler's/engraver's one, it is fitted with a lead at the base such that the vise head becomes one path (ground) of the two electrodes when energized.   This does not detract from the pricing issue (probably as a result that nowhere near as many units as a standard electrical soldering station are sold).  I also have found that I very rarely use it and prefer my own soldering jig.  The rest of the unit, while expensive has proven its worth to me in that once I learned to control the power for the job at hand, it has saved me a lot of costs in wasted time and parts.
 
Dr PR - WRT probes, I have used a single probe hundreds of times with no tip or other breakages, all it does is get shorter with use; must have been a bad lot?   I do however, every so often give the tips a bit of a clean to remove some of the carbon buildup.   I bought a package of replacement probes at time of purchase to save on future shipping costs, but I doubt I will ever use them all   Never know though.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I've made all the uprights for the pavesade: 

Drilling holes in the port gunwale to take the uprights (using a brass pin about 0.5mm diameter as the drill-bit).
  
First upright in place:
 
 
And all done on the port side:
 
And adding the railing. First section:
   Second section -joined to the first with a scarph joint. 
More to come on this.
 
Now I'm working on the arms for the upper oarsmen. I've been dreading this - difficult to get exactly right.
 
I worked up a couple of arms in plasticiene, then using that as a guide I cut out some very rough and oversize arms from pear wood. Shaved one down at the shoulder-end until it fitted to the body,then stuck it in place with a wooden peg joining the arm to the body. Sorry, I didn't take photos at this stage.
 
Then started carving the arm till it fitted, holding the oar handle with the oar in place. 
 
   
Not a perfect job - I cut too much off the hand and the shoulder is too wide (unless he's Superman). I can't do anything about the shoulder without trimming off the wooden pin that holds the arm to the body, and the hand will have to be re-done as part of a new arm. But that was to be expected - this was the test piece, and will serve as a model to make the others from.
 
 
Steven

Pat, Druxey, Geert, Eberhard, Paul, Keith and Eric - thank you all for your kind remarks and thanks to everyone else who has looked in. As the pandemic accelerates may you and your families keep well.

Thanks for the kind words !
 
****************************
Buffer beams
 
In order to limit the recoil and the running out of the gun, buffer beams are installed at both ends of the frame of the lower carriage. Each beam carries four buffers against which the front cross-beam of the upper carriage runs. The buffers are designed as pistons with piston rods screwed to the back of the beam. It is not completely clear what the elastic elements were. The drawings seem to indicate rubber discs with metal separating discs. On some of the guns at Suomenlinna fortress there are remains of rubber discs, while the demonstration model of the Danish navy seems to have spiral springs.
 
Buffer beams on the lower carriage
 
The bodies of the buffers were turned from 1 mm soft steel wire. The spring element was simulated by winding around it several turns of 0.15 mm tinned copper wire. Whether this is meant to meant to represent rubber discs or springs I will decide, when it comes to the painting stage.
 
One buffer dry-mounted
 
The nuts that keep the buffers to the beam were also turned from 1 mm soft steel wire. First, the hexagon for a 0.6 mm spanner width was milled on in the dividing head of the micro-mill. On the lathe a 0.4 mm hole was drilled and 0.3 mm long nuts parted off. And no, I didn’t cut a 0.4 mm thread
 
Buffers and fastening nuts
 
The parts of the buffer beams were laser-cut from 0.15 mm thick Canson paper and soaked in wood-sealer. They were folded and assembled using zapon varnish. In order to make folding more precise, a row of tiny holes were ‘punched’ along the folding lines with the laser-cutter, which weakens the material there. The rivetting was simulated by tiny drops of acrylic gel that was applied with a syringe and a fine injection needle. The needle was ground flat at the end for this purpose.
 

Buffers and fastening nuts – the buffer have a diameter of 1 mm
 
More details were added to the lower carriage. A heavy forged claw at each end of the frame hooks under the rail on which the carriage trucks run to prevent the carriage from lifting off the pivot. The profile of the hooks was taken off the original drawings and cut in multiple copies from Canson paper. These were glued together as a stack and sanded smooth – not a 100% satisfying solution, but filing such tiny but wide claws from the solid I found too fiddly. The lugs that attach the claws to the frame were also cut from Canson paper.
 

Safety claw, pivot plate and drive shaft
 
The gun is trained with the aid of a curved rack, a crown-wheel segment in fact. In to this rack made from bronze, a steel pinion engages that is driven by a shaft from a sort differential, which is powered by man-power from the deck below the barbette. After some consideration I decided not to make the pinion, though I would have liked the challenge, because it will not be visible once the gun has been installed on board. The driving shaft, which also is barely visible was fashioned in a simplified was from a clothes pin, the head of which was turned to shape.
 
To be continued ...
 

The first is used to bind pulleys and hand-wound wires. The second type is specifically designed for clamping small parts of the welding。
 

Thank you very much Pat.  Looks like a neat solution and a very nice Endeavor.   The Jalouse Admiralty drawings show a ladderway directly in front of the companion and Caldercraft places the capstan in approximately the same position.  It appears there are no options to place a binnacle forward whether I follow the plans or the kit design.  I think modelers 200 years from now will be very lucky.  They'll have 1000s of clear digitized photos of pretty much any subject.  When building a model of an ancient 2020 automobile they'll clearly see where the steering wheel is and even the font used on the speedometer 🙂

This the binnacle I built for my Endeavor (1770); this solution puts the binnacle over the skylight, with a compass either side, to allow for the helmsman to steer depending on where the wind was from.  The binnacle is unlikely to go over a companion as the crew need to enter/leave via the companion hatch.  However it could back into the other side and would therefore be a small construction.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

When you finish this model Keith I am going to make a copy of the log and edit to my own needs as an exampler of how to do it right!  Many thanks for continuing to show your techniques in such great detail.
 
Oh, and probably no need to say, but exquisite detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

This the binnacle I built for my Endeavor (1770); this solution puts the binnacle over the skylight, with a compass either side, to allow for the helmsman to steer depending on where the wind was from.  The binnacle is unlikely to go over a companion as the crew need to enter/leave via the companion hatch.  However it could back into the other side and would therefore be a small construction.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

A very useful tool; you don't happen to have a local manufacturer that would do these on a 'limited' production run for you do you?
 
Some very clever ideas you have developed in this jig - thanks for sharing.
 
cheers
 
Pat

When you finish this model Keith I am going to make a copy of the log and edit to my own needs as an exampler of how to do it right!  Many thanks for continuing to show your techniques in such great detail.
 
Oh, and probably no need to say, but exquisite detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

When you finish this model Keith I am going to make a copy of the log and edit to my own needs as an exampler of how to do it right!  Many thanks for continuing to show your techniques in such great detail.
 
Oh, and probably no need to say, but exquisite detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Oh come on now; you have to have a team of elves out the back doing this?   Truely beautiful detail; you are a master craftsman - I think any cabinet maker would be proud of those furniture items, yet alone these being at scale!
 
Is that small vise / gripper you show at post #67, 7 down a purchased item?  With your skills, you probably made this?  It looks a very handy tool/accessory.   If you made this would you please show some other shots of it?
 
DSC01115.JPG.62923c7e9edf6173126b42106c0c3069.jfif
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Kevin, I am a real fan of resistance soldering and I use the Super Chief  unit you showed in the video.
 
By dialing down the power/resistance, I am able to achieve some very small soldered joints even close to each other; although, if you can use a heat sink that is better.  To do this the most important thing, as with any soldering type, is to develop/use a jig that will hold the items in place while you make the joint. Also, a 'clean' tight joint always works best, but I have managed to gap fill using this method.
 
My preferred method is to put a dab of 'NoKarode' flux between and around the joint and place a small pellet (small piece cut from the wire) of solder on the opposite side of the joint so it flows towards the heat source.  I have found that sometimes depending where you place the points of the rod/clip affects this, so sometimes I need to reverse the leads to the unit.  I prefer to use a lead with an alligator/crocodile clip on one side as that frees your hands and provides a good contact -  American Beauty can make these up for you.  I use the single probe lead to then place the point at which I wish to supply heat.  For joints closer together I use different melt point solders, as for any other type of soldering.
 
As you can see from the attached, the small eyes and the lug at the base (shown on top) of this bowsprit cap I am assembling, are quite close together and I was able to achieve this with no heat sinks, including soldering the side plates.  The piece is still being completed and a bit of clean-up still required.  I prefer to use silver solder for its strength and variety of melting points even if there is no real pressure being applied to the joints.  I stay away from the premix silver solders and cored rosin solders as I find they leave too much residue which affects the blackening process (even if I pickle) but if you are painting this should not be a problem and will widen the range of melting points for you.

 
I hope this helps?
 
cheers
 
Pat

When you finish this model Keith I am going to make a copy of the log and edit to my own needs as an exampler of how to do it right!  Many thanks for continuing to show your techniques in such great detail.
 
Oh, and probably no need to say, but exquisite detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

When you finish this model Keith I am going to make a copy of the log and edit to my own needs as an exampler of how to do it right!  Many thanks for continuing to show your techniques in such great detail.
 
Oh, and probably no need to say, but exquisite detail.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Oh come on now; you have to have a team of elves out the back doing this?   Truely beautiful detail; you are a master craftsman - I think any cabinet maker would be proud of those furniture items, yet alone these being at scale!
 
Is that small vise / gripper you show at post #67, 7 down a purchased item?  With your skills, you probably made this?  It looks a very handy tool/accessory.   If you made this would you please show some other shots of it?
 
DSC01115.JPG.62923c7e9edf6173126b42106c0c3069.jfif
cheers
 
Pat

It just keeps on coming - I'm on a roll!
 
Trying out the prototype for the pavesade.
 
Front view:

Back view:

The lower beam represents the gunwale - the uprights will be stuck in holes in the gunwale, in line with the oarbenches. 
 
And held in place by hand, to line up with the oarbench and the thole:
  
Looks like it'll work - just enough room between the shields for the oars to move unhindered. So I'm happy to go ahead with this arrangement on the ship itself.
 
Steven

I remain confined to barracks and my guess is that the situation wont change for many months. Never the less I am spending less time in the workshop than I had hoped.
 
I continue to work in and around the anchor chain. From the winch the chain runs through a wooden guide as per the next image:-

At some time after launch the guide was enhanced by the addition of hoops.

Presumably without the hoops the chain was prone to jumping out of the slots.
 
I made the guides out of the same wood stock I had used for the deck planks. The guides were milled on either side of a block before being slit off using the Byrnes saw.



Cut outs were then made to accept the hoops.
The hoops were made from thin sheet, cut into strips and then formed in a slot milled in oak, using a ball end milling cutter.

I then went on to making the hand wheels for the winch brake. I didn't have any etched wheels of the right size and anyway for larger wheels photo etch parts lack realism. The brake wheels have an outer diameter of .320" a hub diameter of .092" and are of a 3 spoke design. Each spoke is .031" diameter and the wheel rim is .025" thick.
 
I started with a 12" long 3/32" rod and drilled an axial hole of .040" diameter and 3 radial holes of .031' diameter. I then put wires in the radial holes and soldered the assembly by applying solder to the central hole. 

I then turned a bar of .320 outside diameter and .270 bore diameter to create a .025" wall. The hub rod was then mounted in the lathe and the ends of the 3 radial wires were rotated at speed and shortened with a file until they fitted neatly within the 0.270" bore. The larger rod was then placed back in the lathe chuck and hub rod was held in the tailstock chuck. With the spokes inserted in the bore the two parts were soldered together.

The bore rod was then parted off and the central axial hole re-drilled to remove the solder. I then did a bit of cleaning up with a wire brush.

Then back to the lathe to part off the hoop before finally inserting a shaft.

The hand wheels were then installed on the winches.

In the following shot the chain guides are not yet glued in position.

 
 
 
 

Slow but steady? More like an Olympic paced sprint Steven (oh sorry that has been postponed hasn't it)    Some great progress you are making - the model is really looking good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Slow but steady? More like an Olympic paced sprint Steven (oh sorry that has been postponed hasn't it)    Some great progress you are making - the model is really looking good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Finishing up...on the flags and the head gear.
And finished model.
 

Mark, I'm very interested in the effects of oarblade shapes.
 
I note that the blades of the Olympias were sort of leaf-shaped, (see 0.52 and onward at 
 
 
but ancient Greek representations of oarblades (usually on pottery) show them long and straight-sided:

 
or short and straight-sided:

 
many renaissance galleys seem to have had blades that tapered very gently and went quite a long way up the loom: 

similar to those shown in Byzantine representations:
 
   I'm very interested in the mechanics of all this - I wonder if there are any publications relating to it.
 
[Edit: Silly me. Of course there are - a quick google search turned up this:  https://www.researchgate.net/publication/245524939_A_review_of_propulsive_mechanisms_in_rowing
 
- very good for those of a scientific/engineering mind-set; not so much for people like me. The thing I'd really like to see is a a follow-up to this research, giving a scientific analysis comparing the performance of different-shaped oar-blades
 
Steven

I've been busy.
 
Here are the first steps in mass producing my oarsmen.

This lot makes up just under half the number needed for the ship. Now I just have to carve them all . . .
 
The book "Early Ships and Seafaring" by Sean McGrail contains a lot of interesting information, including the maximum and minimum distance for oared vessels (from archaeological finds) between the thole and the front of the oarbench.

I tried one thole at the minimum distance (5.6 mm at 1:50 scale) and one at the maximum (8 mm ) to see how it all worked

 
I've added the footrests at the back of each oarbench, for the oarsmen to push their feet against as they row. I cut strips from offcuts from deck planking etc. 
 
then cut them to length, trimmed the outboard end to follow the angle of the waterway

and started gluing them in place.


Here's one side complete (a bit hard to see - in the picture they're on the right hand side)

I've put the first upper oar in (temporarily) to test which thole distance to use (turned out the minimum distance was best).
 
Also to determine whether I've got the oarsmen right, and the correct configuration for their arms.
 
Getting the upper oar at the same angle (from above) as the lower oars, (I used a block of wood as a spacer to get the oarblade at the right height) -  

as well as in a straight line between the oarsman's hands, the thole and the surface of the water.
  
Looks like I still have some adjusting to do on the oarsmen's sitting position so their arms will be correct (compared to the photos I have of upper oarsmen on the trireme reconstruction Olympias).

And here are the benches with all the footrests in place.

Slow but steady progress.
 
Steven